Moving drill/mill
- Thread starter ron in sc
- Start date
jmarkwolf
Well-known member
When I had to move a 750lb mill drill into my basement, I rented an engine hoist, dismantled the mill drill into a few pieces, moved everything into the basement on a heavy duty hand truck, then re-assembled the mill drill with the engine hoist.
Did the same in reverse, when I sold it 15 years later.
Did the same in reverse, when I sold it 15 years later.
Erampu
Well-known member
A case or two of beer and your strongest friends.
amorrow
Well-known member
It sounds like you wish to move it around on a flat surface. In that case, depending on the base get a couple steel tubes, bar stock, or something to place underneath it to make it easy to roll around. That's how I move my Bridgeport, which even has notches to make prying it upward to slide tubes underneath a fairly easy task.
big pry bars and a few sections of pipe.
Lift the machine edge enough to slide the pipe under it using the pipe as a roller. use the pry bar to scoot it ahead enough to rest on another piece of pipe. continue until it where you want it.
Position the pipe as to "steer" the machine, in the direction you want.
Brother owns a machine shop, usually moves large machines by him self.
Lift the machine edge enough to slide the pipe under it using the pipe as a roller. use the pry bar to scoot it ahead enough to rest on another piece of pipe. continue until it where you want it.
Position the pipe as to "steer" the machine, in the direction you want.
Brother owns a machine shop, usually moves large machines by him self.
astroracer
Well-known member
I use a pallet jack to move my mill when I have too.
Mark
Mark
My Old Tools
Well-known member
You should be able to inch it around with a long crow bar. I move my Millrite that way and it is a lot heavier than any mill/drill.
FullRaceMerc
Well-known member
This works surprisingly well. It can mar the floor.
How'd you set it on the pallet jack??
fnieto
Well-known member
Funny, I finished up a rolling base yesterday for a mill. It gets delivered to the owner after I paint it. once in place the leveling feet take the load of the castors.
Frame is 3/8"x 4"x4" and the castor plates are 3/8" x 4" CR flat bar. The tubing used for both the castor and leveling feet are 1/4" x 3"x3".
It rolls with some effort and levels out with a simple 8" crescent wrench.
Frame is 3/8"x 4"x4" and the castor plates are 3/8" x 4" CR flat bar. The tubing used for both the castor and leveling feet are 1/4" x 3"x3".
It rolls with some effort and levels out with a simple 8" crescent wrench.
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fnieto
Well-known member
Thanks for all advice. got machine on floor with an engine crane.
Then cut up some lids for those plastic containers you can buy at wall mart. put them under machine corners by lifting machine with pry bar,
then sprayed a wurth product that spays like oil the gets thicker like grease. two of use could push it around, unit is a grizzly GO810. Spray more lube as needed,
Now how do I align the table to column so it will be square?
Then cut up some lids for those plastic containers you can buy at wall mart. put them under machine corners by lifting machine with pry bar,
then sprayed a wurth product that spays like oil the gets thicker like grease. two of use could push it around, unit is a grizzly GO810. Spray more lube as needed,
Now how do I align the table to column so it will be square?
Well the process is called tramming the mill. Lots of good references on google and you tube. No need to reinvent the wheel here. Not strictly necessary but I find the right tool incredibly nice to use. It is not horribly expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EMPHVE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Not sure no the specifics for that machine. For the bench top mill drill you unbolt the column and add shims. It will all depend on how the column attaches to the table.
edit: I was curious so I looked it up. The short answer is you you don't. The only way to change the alignment is to rebore the table.
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astroracer
Well-known member
Pry bars and short pieces of 2 x 4 and 4 x 4 to get it up in the air high enough to roll the jack under it. The jack made it an easy job to roll this up on the car trailer when we picked it up.
We left it right on the jack and strapped it down to the trailer.I have it setting on 4 x 4's in the shop right now so this process is a lot easier then the initial move. You can see some of the short pieces in this pic.
Mark
Jawn
Well-known member
Why wasn't the engine hoist working for you? That's how I've moved mine around. Too wide at the hoist legs?