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My Ucoatit install

Hammerdown

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Ok, after lurking her for a long time and trying to be of some use on this forum, and after prodding by other members I have decided to post my first thread on an epoxy floor I installed with a buddy of mine. He is a member of Bent Wheels C.C. an off road motorcycle club that does Enduro Racing and enjoys off road motorcross. We installed this at his clubhouse about five years ago. This is approximately 1500s/f of concrete in good condition. His club members had to approve any modifications to the clubhouse and the funding, so they did some research into floor coatings. Since I have familiarity with it and get a contractor price on Ucoatit, they decided to go with that and it was approved by the members. We just needed to coordinate a time when our schedules would work out, since this was a "pro-bono" job on my part.
Excuse my long winded post, I am a frustrated writer and take any opportunity to provide a detailed account of anything I can. I could write three pages on eating a bowl of cereal in the morning.  I did reference the Ucoatit website and speak with my buddy Chris to make sure I had the details correct.
My buddy Chris is an avid photographer and decided to take pictures of the different steps of application. He presented these to the members of his club to justify the costs. He gave me these photos of the installation so I could post them here. They are not the best because I had to scan them into my computer, so the colors may be off but they should give you the idea of what is happening.
We purchased the materials for about $1200 dollars after discount. During the purchase he really pressed the salesman about sponsoring any of his club activities. He couldn’t get a commitment on the spot, but the salesman gave him a Ucoatit decal and said if he put it the floor and sent a picture of it, he’d do his best to see if they could “do something” on a sponsorship. He left satisfied. He also had a decal made up of the club logo and decided to put both of these in the floor. A local sign shop made the appropriate vinyl decal.
Flash forward and the weekend had arrived that the weather and schedules matched and we drove from suburbia into the “Great White North” of Michigan. After a 3 hour drive we arrived at the clubhouse location in beautiful Rose City Michigan, for those of you familiar with it, it is located just northeast of West Branch. The clubhouse serves as a multi-purpose building. It is the maintenance shed where all the bikes and vehicles are wrenched on, the meeting place, the dining hall and the sleeping quarters! It is a 30x50 pole barn construction with a concrete slab, electricity and a wood burning stove for heat. Friday night was reserved for grilling steaks and drinking beer as a precursor to the work.
This is a list of materials used in the process. The epoxy primer and color coat, decorative flakes and high gloss urethane top coat were all purchased from Ucoatit. This is what they call a “kit and two double packs” of material worth, which amounted to six (6) gallons of epoxy base with six (6) quarts of its activator, and three (3) gallons of urethane base with three (3) ½ gallons of its activator. The flakes were provided in 3 jubs that weighed about 3-4lbs each. Since everything was neatly packaged and came with an instructional manual and video, we watched that after dinner with some members who offered to help. I put in my two cents on the video since I’ve done this before and separated the products into 3 parts. There were other things needed for the preparation like a degreaser (Simple Green & dish soap) and muriatic acid, which we needed 3 gallons. Push brooms, paint poles and extra brushes and roller covers were also purchased. Since there was 1500s/f, the math was easy. The epoxy bases are required for two (2) coats, so each 500s/f section would receive 2gals w/2qts of the epoxy & activator, 1gal w/ 1 ½ gal of the urethane & activator, a 1 jug of flakes. So far so good.

STEP 1-
It was early in the morning and about 60* degrees, getting to a high of about 76*. Clean the floor free of any dirt, debris, oils and soils. The instructions indicate water has to be able to absorb in over the surface first, so the floor was scrubbed with the detergents and push brooms repeatedly, until there was no beading action and the water soaked in over the whole slab.


Then the floor was rinsed thoroughly with fresh water until no soap bubbles remained or re-appeared and the rinse was clear.
 

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Hammerdown

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:headscrat:(:mad:Sorry, I can't figure out how to get this whole deal in as a co-hesive thread. I'm going to have to post as replies.
Bear with me. :wtf:
Please don't post in here until I'm done. Thanks for everybodys cooperations.
 
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Hammerdown

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STEP 2-
Then the muriatic acid was diluted, using half a gallon of acid with four (4) gallons of water to get an 8/1 ratio. Be careful and make sure to add the acid into the water, not vice-versa! We also added a couple of drops of dawn dish soap to create surface tension and reduce the fumes. This too was scrubbed in over the floor with the push broom. Each solution covering the 500s/f we had broken the floor into (we used masking tape on the walls to give a guide of where we should be). This process brought up a lot of crud and dust we thought we had already gotten ride of, but the acid bites in and etches the concrete some and breaks loose any stubborn residues. It also lowers it’s pH levels so the coating gets good adhesion.
 

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Hammerdown

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We did this twice as recommended, thoroughly rinsing after each wash. We rinsed the floor very well, making sure every bit of debris was removed and that the acid was washed away.
 

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Hammerdown

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STEP 3-
Apply the primer coat. This is where the Ucoatit product takes a veer from your normal epoxy application. The call this the “Bond” coat, and it is a three (3) part epoxy mix (A+B+C) that is applied while the floor is wet/damp, NOT dry. At first your mind has a hard time processing a wet application, but the mfg. rep. assures that the product is formulated to do so! It basically allows the coating to absorb into the concrete. Since concrete is very porous, the primer is able to form a strong mechanical bond this way and it eliminates the need for scarifying the floor with a shot blaster or grinder. The primer was mixed up all three (3) parts, one at a time of each for each of our sections and applied with a ½” nap roller.
 

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Hammerdown

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We started by trimming the edges against the wall. We did this as we went, trimming a section and then rolling into it.
 

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Hammerdown

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It was then rolled out over our first section, on the damp floor with the tools included in the kit

It goes on thin and soaks into the floor, so it almost disappears as it dries. The video shows a light application after this stage so there were no worries. We proceeded to roll out each unit until it was gone, judging the coverage and application rate by the markers we taped on the wall. We tried to use up all the mixed material as we approached each demarcation line. We rinsed the tools and buckets with water and dried wiped them out before mixing up a new batch. You don’t want to mix new epoxy with old, as it can accelerate the curing process and make the new mix un-useable. We mixed up the new material and coated the remaining sections. This was done on a Saturday morning and we finished up in about 4 or 5 hours- Cleaning, acid washes and first coat, taking minor breaks between steps for refreshment. Once we started rolling out the coating there was no stopping! We let the floor cure all afternoon and into evening, and after dinner the floor was dry enough to get back onto it and apply the second coat.
 

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Hammerdown

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Step 4-
Applying the finish coat of color. This is the same material as the primer coat, but without the third part of the mix, just two (2) parts (A+B). Once again we followed our formula of using the three (3) remaining units, one at a time for each of our sections.
 

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Hammerdown

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Since we were using the decorative flakes we poured this out of the shipping canister and into a bucket, mixing them up and breaking up the larger pieces. We had three (3) bottles of the flakes as You have to broadcast (throw) the flakes on the coating while it’s wet, so we did this in smaller sections. We would roll out and area and walk along the edge, tossing the flakes into the air over the wet coating. They spread like confetti and settled in. ( I opted Not to use spiked shoes, as I feel like a horse on ice in these and have busted my a55 before, so I like this method better than walking on the wet coating in golf spikes!) We would roll a section, broadcast the flakes and move on to the next. In the picture you can clearly see the second coat which is wet with the first coat that has cured. Once the flakes were presentable we’d continue on. This part is great to have a second person, since you can keep rolling and they can flake it.
 

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Hammerdown

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Once again the 1/3 section per unit was followed, mixing up more material as it was needed. This was completed in about 2.5 hours or so. You do have to work at a good clip to ensure the epoxy doesn’t thicken up and cure on you. (No rest for the wicked!)
The area was closed up to protect against any blowing debris or bugs, and allowed to cure overnight while we kicked it by the camp fire.
 
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Hammerdown

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STEP 5-
Applying the high gloss top coat. Sunday morning we laid down the club logo and put the Ucoatit decal under it as Chris had promised. (He was determined to get some free stuff or sponsorship money for their races, and I commended his perseverance.) After the decals were laid down they were wiped with some denatured alcohol to clean away any oily residue from handling. The clear coat was mixed up, one unit at a time with two parts (1+2) and rolled out. with a 3/8” roller. This is a solvent based product, so it has a strong odor and is a flammable liquid. If you are susceptible to fumes get an organic vapor respirator to filter out the fumes. We had the doors all open and good ventilation and did not use them. (If you were using this in your garage make sure there are no pilot lights on!)
 

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Hammerdown

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Since it was a solvent based we changed roller covers for each new mix and threw the used ones away. The bucket was wiped with lacquer thinner to remove any residue before we mixed up the next batch. I recommended allowing the floor to cure for a week before any hard use was put to it. Here is the finished floor-
 

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Hammerdown

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I just want to summarize. This is my choice, my opinions and my experiences presented here. This is a floor coating system I find very easy to work with, in most cases no heavy machinery or equipment is needed to grind the floor or scarify it and it produces a durable finish. I recommend this product for my installations because it is readily available and I have experience with it, which is a great benefit. There are many other products on this board and out there that are quality materials. I do not try to disparage any other coating or product from any manufacturer. I have used a number of coatings, and find this to provide more “bang for my buck” as at were. If this were not for a friend of mine I would have charged about $3+ per square foot installed.
I recommend that anyone who is having a floor coating installed or looking to do it yourself, do the research. Find out what you need, what you want, and what you are willing to pay for it. There are systems for every use and budget, you just have to find the right one for you.

I hope this post helps somebody or anybody, and want to thank GarageGuy for calling me out and making me start my own thread after 5 years!!! I will be more tech savvy this year and record the process of more floors or post more pictures of completed floors. I was thinking about calling up a few past clients and see if I could come by and take a picture of the floor, so we’ll see if I can get more for future posts.


P.S. I called my buddy today and asked for a recent photo of the floor to show how it’s holding up after five years. He indicated the floor still looks great but is very dirty! I told him I didn’t care and to get a picture so I can post it the next time he’s up there. I asked him about the logo deal, and he said he got two Ucoatit gift cards for a free kit to give away for their largest event, which is a “Fall Color Tour” guided motorcycle ride, for the last three years. I thought he was Bullsh!++ing me to save face , but he called “Honest Injun” so I gotta believe it!

Thanks
 
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Hammerdown

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WOW! That was harder than I thought! :mad: Two many characters, pictures not in the right position, :( you name it! :wtf:

I think it's done now, so thanks for riding along.

Let the games begin!
 

kywildcat

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Very nice write up!!! I don't think I will be doing that much reporting on my floor when I start in a couple weeks, but I will do some reporting and pic taking......thank's for all the detail!!!!
 

99zee

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Nov 4, 2010
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Great write-up. Still trying to decide what to do with my floor. My projects will take me into the middle of the year, so I have some time.
 

Thruxton

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Great writeup! I'm not surprised after reading your well-written comments on the "epoxy squares" thread.
 
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