Need a little help with lighting

[franksinatra]

Im hoping to find someone to give me a bit of help on lighting and maybe a bit of electrical help. I have just finished installing the bottom cords on some hand built trusses in my Garage. I would like to continue to insulate and poly the entire thing finishing it off with sheetrock. Obviously before I sheetrock I need to have a few things figured out. After looking at the pictures I have added, how many lights would you guys use on my 24x24 two car garage? Also what typed of lights. I was planning on Flourescent light and adding a few over each counter top area as I figure the layout better. Rafters are 16" on center. Is there 4' or 8' Flourescents that will fit in an opening such as this? Would anyone recomend doing it this way? I want it well lit.

Now for Electrical help. I have an electrician friend coming in to finish off my sub panel in my garage that I had run 1 awg AL wiring too from inside my house. I got the wire cheap through him. When installing lights and outlets, how many units should be wired for each breaker? I would like to get an idea of what needs to happen so I can either run the wire for the lights and outlets or at least purchase the wire so we are ready to go when he gets here.

If you guys have any tips or ideas you care to share, I would appreciate it. I need all the help I can get. Thank you, G

 

[Torque1st]

Two or three, two bulb, 4' fixtures in three rows. One row in the center between the two vehicles and a row to the outside of each vehicle bay. Put each row on a switch and connect to a single 15A breaker. Put the bench lights on their own switch and 15A breaker then put an outlet or two on the ceiling connected to the same switch for cord connected temporary or task lighting.

Paint your shop white to reflect available light.

Put each wall's outlets on a separate 20A breaker.

Does your hanging heater have minimum distances to combustible materials? I have one and it lists 6" minimums and it must also be a minimum of 8' off the floor.

 

[franksinatra]

Thank you for your ideas. In all honesty thats what I would like, some ideas. Im just trying to figure out what is working for some people and what others would like to change about ideas they have already tried. I am planning 4 rows of 2 with 4' T8 lights. Would installing recessed fluorescents be a waste of light? Im sure exposed lighting is better but the looks dont really work well with what Im trying to do. I will have a fair amount of can lighting around the perimeter of the room also for work areas and probably more under cabinets.

For starters I dont know a lot about electrical. I can do most of it, but i dont know codes or what is even acceptable so if my questions sound idiotic, bare with me.
On the Electrical side of things. Is the standard for most garages 4 lights per breaker with their own switch? If possible, I would only want one switch per 2 rows, Front half of can lights on a third and back half on the fourth. I might even do all can lighting and try and keep it on two switches. Still up in the air. The issue with the switches is keeping it looking clean. I dont want to make it look like Im turning on the Boston Gardens in my garage. How many outlets can I have on one 15 amp breaker? Can I wire for a 20 amp breaker and have more?

To answer your question about the heater. I just mounted it back up there quick to get the heater up and running quickly. I figured it should be away from the ceiling more so I will change that in the next couple of days. Its getting cold here in MN.
Thank you again. G

 

[Torque1st]

Use 20A breakers for outlets. The issue isn't how many you can connect to a breaker, it is how you are going to use them. The same thing goes for lights. There is a limit based on loading but you don't want to go near there. You need general convenience outlets and as your shop grows you will need dedicated outlets for some tools.

If the wife's freezer is in your shop you will need a dedicated single (not duplex) outlet for it so it can be on a non-GFCI circuit. Opening the freezer to find that there was a nuisance trip two weeks ago is not pleasant...

Plan your switches for the way you want to use them. Maybe put the lights for the first bay on a switch by the man door or overhead door. Put the switch for the bench lights and final row of lights in the far bay near the bench.

You want light around the perimeter of the vehicles rather than directly above them. It makes a big difference on being able to see to work on them. It is just like reading. You want the light to come over your shoulders from behind you, -not in your face.

You always want some light even if a breaker trips so don't put all the lights on one breaker. Don't put wall outlets on a breaker with the lights where an oops with a tool can leave you in the dark.

Function way beats out looks in a shop.

You need big room for expansion in your electrical box for the shop, 50% is a good figure.

Get a book on electrical wiring from the home box store.

I know it gets cold in Minnesota, I have spent a lot of time there with relatives.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

spam reported

 

[Charles (in GA)]

If the wife's freezer is in your shop you will need a dedicated single (not duplex) outlet for it so it can be on a non-GFCI circuit. Opening the freezer to find that there was a nuisance trip two weeks ago is not pleasant...

NEC 2005 version 210.8(A)(2) exception no. 2 exempted the single receptacle from the GFCI requirement if used on a dedicated appliance like a freezer.

NEC 2008 version..... this exception no. 2 has been deleted and thus GFCI is required, the single outlet provision is gone.

Not that I advocate putting a freezer or fridge on a GFCI.

Charles

 

[Torque1st]

This is an old thread.

I am still on the 2005 code here. If someone is unfortunate enough to be on the 2008 code then the only real option is to install a GFCI outlet and replace it after the inspection is done. The 2008 code seems to be full of mandated devices looking for a problem to solve.