Nut Drivers

[Wolverine]

Does anyone still use the hand-held, screwdriver type or do you just use power? Either a rechargable drill or air, etc. ?


Worth buying a nut driver set?

 

[bmwpower]

I'm wondering the same thing. I've always been mesmerized by the multicolored Craftsman set. I just never really thought they were completely necessary in an automotive environment.

 

[eschoendorff]

I have the traditional nutdrivers (Armstrong in SAE and Husky in metric). I was at lowes today and scored the GearDriver nutdriver stubbby set for - get this - $8!

I find nutdrivers useful for working under the dashboard, car stereo, and electrical around the house. They're nice because most of them have hollow shafts to clear long bold (where you would have to use a deep socket on a spinner handle otherwise). For what you'd spend on them, I think you'll find a lot of uses. Of course, that's just my opinion....

 

[kartracer55]

I find them pretty useless, Ive done a fair amount of automotive work (by no means a mechanic) and Ive never ever encountered a time when this...
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00943393000

couldnt take care of it. ITs like a nut driver but I can stick deep sockets and an extension on the damn thing too. Thats what I use, and rarely at that. My friend has a set of nutdrivers he got in one of those craftsman sets and he doesnt really use them either. You simply cant get any torque on them.

An electician will tell you something totally different because of the nature of the work

Jim

 

[Fast Orange]

As Jim said,in electrical work-particularly lighting assembly and repair,they're indispensible. Once in a while I'll use one for automotive work.
I've got 3 sets-IMHO,Klien makes the best ones.

George

 

[rdnkjeeper]

I just have a cheap set that someone bought me...I usually keep them handy so I don't have to grab a socket and ratchet everytime. expecially working around batteries.

 

[Thumper]

I've got a set in metric and SAE. In certain cases they do come in handy.

 

[YJTypeR]

I got the standard and metric ones in a craftsman set I bought a while back and I use them somewhat often in automotive work. I didn't think I'd really use them until I had them, but my opinion has changed. They are very handy for small dash screws and other sheet metal screws.

 

[dink]

I will tell you right now they are awesome for engine covers...on new cars that have engine covers....the nuts and bolts to hold those on are not at a high torque range.....maybe 5 to 10lbs.....I know because I broke off a head of one of the bolts to the engine cover of my Scion with a normal ratchet and socket because there was to much power using that.....Nut drivers are perfect for this type of job because you have more control over the tightening

I have a Wiha screwdriver with a socket adaptor end for this type of work so I get the security of a screwdriver and not over tightening but still using my good quality SK or Facom socket....which ever size it is

Here is a picture.....its the red and black tool

 

[Wolverine]

The set I've been eyeballing are from MAC tools. I'll see if I can find a pic.

 

[Wolverine]

Here they are:

 

[dink]

Klien has a nice set of Nutdrivers......they are made by Pratt-Read...its the cushion grip yellow and black handles

 

[kartracer55]

if you do get them you probably want ones with hollow handles

Also, I really like speeder handles for low torque bolts...them and air ratchets lol

Jim

 

[swgray]

I find hand held nut drivers very useful. On vehicles, around the house and at my job. In fact, I used one this afternoon on a distributor cap. I used one yesterday on the TV.

The hollow shafts do come in handy, too.

I also use the magnetic nut drivers in drills, but usually only with self tapping screws.

 

[wythors]

I've got this ratcheting nutdriver set from Mac.

They've come in handy working inside my cars several times as well as disassembling headlights and such. Well worth the $50 for a set that includes both standard and metric. It comes in a blow-molded case.

 

[dink]

I've got this ratcheting nutdriver set from Mac.

They've come in handy working inside my cars several times as well as disassembling headlights and such. Well worth the $50 for a set that includes both standard and metric. It comes in a blow-molded case.

Hmmmm but as a ratcheting effect....do they tend to want to over torque things that shouldn't be???

 

[wythors]

Hmmmm but as a ratcheting effect....do they tend to want to over torque things that shouldn't be???

Why on earth would that happen just because they have a ratcheting handle?

 

[Jared]

I use them tons when working on briggs and stratton lawn mower engines and a bit on automotive work.

 

[kartracer55]

I use them tons when working on briggs and stratton lawn mower engines and a bit on automotive work.

Ahh, another briggs junkie? I work on them as a side buisness... its great money... people pay me 50$ to rebuild and clean the carb, change the oil, plug and air filter... Lol It costs me 11$ in parts so thats like 40$ for labor and I can do it in about an hour if its one I carry parts for lol. I like them... kinda like where my roots are ya know? I almost did a VICA/SkillsUSA thing for power equipmet and small engine repair but then the guy registering me got shipped to iraq... doin it this year fo shizzle

Jim

 

[z28toz06]

Yeah the mac's are nice. I have the craftsman set. I just bought them recently for 39 dollars. Both metric and SAE in the set.

 

[eschoendorff]

I've got this ratcheting nutdriver set from Mac.

They've come in handy working inside my cars several times as well as disassembling headlights and such. Well worth the $50 for a set that includes both standard and metric. It comes in a blow-molded case.

I just bought the GearDriver stubby version of that at Lowes yesterday for $8! It's this one:

http://www.gearwrench.com/ratcheting_screwdriver_nutdriver_system/geardriver_nutdriver/index.jsp

Granted, not exectly MAC tools, but if you want a set of these, $8 is hard to beat. Check in the clearance section at your Lowes. Mine only had three left...

 

[Canadian Charlie]

I have a set of metric nut drivers made by BETA, but I wouldn't mind a SAE set made by Snap On

 

[4lug39]

I think they are very useful. I seem to be installing a lot of wiring harnesses lately
and they are great to have around. I also use them under the hood on hose clamps, head lights and tail lights.

 

[Jared]

Ahh, another briggs junkie? I work on them as a side buisness... its great money... people pay me 50$ to rebuild and clean the carb, change the oil, plug and air filter... Lol It costs me 11$ in parts so thats like 40$ for labor and I can do it in about an hour if its one I carry parts for lol. I like them... kinda like where my roots are ya know? I almost did a VICA/SkillsUSA thing for power equipmet and small engine repair but then the guy registering me got shipped to iraq... doin it this year fo shizzle

Jim

I dont work on them for money but if i were asked too i probobly would, i mainly build cheep go carts and stuff like that. I think im a gonna have to start working on them as a side buisness sounds like good money, what models do you usually do 9200(briggs classic)?

 

[wythors]

I just bought the GearDriver stubby version of that at Lowes yesterday for $8! It's this one:

http://www.gearwrench.com/ratcheting_screwdriver_nutdriver_system/geardriver_nutdriver/index.jsp

Granted, not exectly MAC tools, but if you want a set of these, $8 is hard to beat. Check in the clearance section at your Lowes. Mine only had three left...

Helluva buy!

 

[kartracer55]

I dont work on them for money but if i were asked too i probobly would, i mainly build cheep go carts and stuff like that. I think im a gonna have to start working on them as a side buisness sounds like good money, what models do you usually do 9200(briggs classic)?

Whatever they pay me too work on My favorites are by Far the L heads (like the 9200s). Ive done engines from 2hp all the way on up... L head (flatheads) OHV, I ringed a 20 (or21?) hp I/C for a guy. Oldest engine I've ever done is the one I call the beast... My 1964 4hp, totally rebuilt it, valves, springs, rings and all that other fun stuff. I plan on swapping it into the minibike. Its got so much compression if it doesnt start in 2 or 3 pulls your arm is tired Ive worked on and rebuilt engines made in the last 2 or 3 years as well.

Briggs are my favorites to work on (they all share the same parts hahaha) but I do tecumsehs and Ive done work on Hondas and Ive set valves and other little things on my friends kawasaki 17.

If you do decide to do work, the majority of engines your going to get are the 3.5s. I keep parts on hand for these, everything else I buy when I need them. Most of the jobs I do are just "tune ups" so its nothing too in depth. These are where you make the most money, because You can do it start to finish in under an hour, and you pick up about 40$ for it.

Jim

 

[Jared]

Thanks for the tips jim. I do a bit off work on tcumseh but I dont like em as much a briggs I also work on my chainsaws(Husky)

 

[Roadster]

I find them pretty useless, Ive done a fair amount of automotive work (by no means a mechanic) and Ive never ever encountered a time when this...
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00943393000

couldnt take care of it. ITs like a nut driver but I can stick deep sockets and an extension on the damn thing too. Thats what I use, and rarely at that. My friend has a set of nutdrivers he got in one of those craftsman sets and he doesnt really use them either. You simply cant get any torque on them.

An electician will tell you something totally different because of the nature of the work

The best feature of these tools is the color-coding for easy size identification, which is consistent across different brands (e.g., Sears, Klein, Husky)...

Black - 3/16"
Red - 1/4"
Orange - 9/32"
Yellow - 5/16"
Green - 11/32"
Blue - 3/8"
Brown - 7/16"
Red - 1/2"

So when you need to remove or install a 5/16" fastener, all you have to do is grab the yellow handle.

Metric sizes are color-coded, too, but usually have an offsetting base color like a gray handle -- to differentiate them from SAE sizes -- with multi-colored rings to denote individual metric sizes.