Opinions on Concrete floor

[KPSquared]

Hey guys,

Just posted up some pics of my garage build in the Gallery. I need some opinions on what to treat my floor with.

This is an every day parking garge, repair shop and fab shop. I have a lot of hobbies and most of them will take place here.

I want a floor that won't absorb oil and other chemicals, that will handle the heat of welding/grinding/cutting and also won't get stupid slippery when it's wet. Also I would like something durable that I don't have to maintain much.

It will be wet most of the winter and have a lot of road salt on it. Both our vehicles will have to thaw out every night... sometimes the fender bergs are so thick they are dragging on the pavement by the time I get home from work...

So, suggestions, ideas? I need to put a call into legacy to see what they recommend, but I figured I'd ask you guys as well.

I'm also considering a dye or stain of some sort just for looks, but am undecided on that front as well.

 

[Edger]

Use a Legacy concrete hardener, cheap as dirt, excellent durability, no visible change to the concrete. I am not promoting Legacy, but they do have these.

 

[Wingnut65]

Sounds like you've eliminated VCT and plastic tiles, unless for welding you would have a blanket or matt to put down. The hardner or sealer like Edger suggests or one of the 2-part epoxy products would work.

Do you have floor drains or sloped floor to remove the overnight thaw by morning?

 

[flybefree]

KP, I am staining and sealing my slab...based on how good it looked on Shopnut's Build thread.

Shaun

 

[KPSquared]

Well, this is kind of an old post, but I still don't know what I want to put down on the floor.

Basically I want the most affordable option that will prevent oil/fluid stains, be easy to clean up, look good, and not be hellish-ly slippery when covered in mud/water/slush/snow.

My floor is going to be poured in the next 2 months or so, so before I make my final decision, throw me a few more opinions.

What are densifiers? Are they worth while? What about stains and sealants? I think epoxy is out of my price range. not sure. I just don't fully understand all the options.

I have 952 sq. ft. of floor. Not all of that would need to be done as I have a shed of sorts in one corner. That's 10x12 so that loses another 120 sq. ft. leaving me with 832 sq. ft. I may end up tiling in my work area but I'm not sure yet.

If you give me an opinion, do your best to provide an approximate cost per square foot (DIY and paid labor). I plan to do whatever it is myself, but you never know.

 

[Edger]

If you are so uncertain about the finish why not tile it? Lots of good posts here about the benefits of tiling.

 

[KPSquared]

I really don't like the look of tile in a garage. I'm considering tiling in my work area but I've been on wet tile floors and they are crazy slippery. I also don't like the idea of all the grout lines to catch mud, oil, etc. It just seems like a PITA to keep clean.

Maybe I'm out to lunch. I haven't given tiling the whole thing much thought. I'll go search up some threads and see what I can learn.

 

[KPSquared]

I'm still trying to decide how important looks are to me. . . I'm not sure if I care if my floor is pretty or not. I think I'm at the point where I just want the floor to not soak up oil etc.

I'm really overwhelmed with all the choices. Basically, I want a floor that won't soak up oil, brake fluid, anti-freeze, diesel, gas, or any other **** I spill on it. I want a floor that is easy to sweep and wash. If it can be dyed (I really like the look of Legacy's English Red in Fly Be Free's garage) that would be great but I'm not sure the money would be worth it for me.

I need it to hold up to rolling tool boxes, jack stands, jacks, etc. And also all manner of stuff being dropped on it. It would also be great if it was no more slick than regular concrete when wet, but I can compromise there if I have to for the stain proof factor.

I think epoxy is out, but I don't understand what all the other stuff is. Densifiers, clear coats, urethane, poly-something-or-other, acids. . .blah, blah, blah. It seems like a TON of info to take in.

At this point, I would like to protect the floor from stains in the most cost effective way possible. If I can upgrade to a prettier coating down the road, that's great.

Experts? Your take?

 

[dcs Inc]

You really only have 2 choices if not installing tile, either you go with a penetrating sealer or a topical. Penetrating sealers wont offer you the stain/chemical protection. Topicals such as epoxies, urethanes, polyaspartics give you great stain protection as well as chemical protection depending on which one you go with. There are novilacs (epoxy) that they apply on the inside of chemical tanks.

Here's what I've been suggesting to guys. Apply a water based epoxy.... it goes down thin. Then apply a urethane top coat with aluminum oxide additive. You can pre stain your floor if you want some color or add a colorant into the epoxy. Some even carry a pre colored water based epoxy. I prefer adding my own as I can get marbling and veining happening. The urethane top cat is more resistant to chemicals. The aluminum oxide additive gives you really good slip resistance and it's really scratch resistant. Just a thought. gene, elite crete of Indiana

 

[ejm1961Tbird]

Is water-based epoxy the same or different than thin mil epoxy? Is the exopy (water-based or thin mil) with a urethane top coat a DIY job? I have the same needs that you describe KPSquared -- I want to have a new concrete slab poured and then protect it before I move into the garage. I will be interested in seeing which way you go. Thanks all.

 

[KPSquared]

Ok, so, is one companies Epoxy better than the others? I think I'm going to have to find local stuff as shipping to Canada get's retarded from a cost perspective.

dcs Inc: If I were to take your advice directly, what brand would you recommend? Water base epoxy, followed by urethane clear coat with aluminum oxide.

what's my cost per square foot going to end up being?

Popular options on here seem to be Legacy and more recently, Rock Solid and maybe others. Don't know if they have a water based, not even sure what to look for.

I for sure want a DIY product. I'm very capable and extra labor is not a problem. . . just need to figure out what to use. If I can narrow it down to brands, I can figure out exactly what I can get locally.

Thanks!

 

[KPSquared]

After some research and finding this thread :CLICKY!

I think I know what I'm going for. Now to figure out local or online. . .

From legacy I think it would be the Standard Sealer - HD015CLR, the Urethane Top Coat - HD356VOC, add some Soft Skid for traction - HDTABALUM, and if I want a different color, pick up some acid stain and do that first.

If I go this route, I think I'll get the finish I am looking for. I'm just starting to understand what all this stuff means. . .my brain hurts.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Ok, so, is one companies Epoxy better than the others? I think I'm going to have to find local stuff as shipping to Canada get's retarded from a cost perspective.

dcs Inc: If I were to take your advice directly, what brand would you recommend? Water base epoxy, followed by urethane clear coat with aluminum oxide.

what's my cost per square foot going to end up being?

Popular options on here seem to be Legacy and more recently, Rock Solid and maybe others. Don't know if they have a water based, not even sure what to look for.

I for sure want a DIY product. I'm very capable and extra labor is not a problem. . . just need to figure out what to use. If I can narrow it down to brands, I can figure out exactly what I can get locally.

Thanks!

KP

Depending on where you are in Canada there is little extra cost for shipping.
FlyBeFree did stain his floor but is applying (2) thin coats of our Standard Epoxy Sealer, and top-coating with our HD356VOC clear urethane. He will have a very unique and very chem resistant, wear resistant floor for his hangar.

It is very easy to add ottowa or Soft Skid into the urethane for a non-skid surface.[/ATTACH]

 

[KPSquared]

What's the life expectancy of the clear coat? If I'm driving on it everyday?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

It was designed for mild to harsh environments.
Performance depends on your house-keeping skills.

Well kept and clean it can last 20 years or more before a fresh coat of urethane is required. Poorly kept, you could need another coat in a matter of years.

It's all up to you.

 

[KPSquared]

So, what does "well kept" mean?

This is a functional garage. Vehicle maintenance and muddy, wet, road salt covered cars. In and out every day.

How do you maintain this style of floor coating? I tend to throw floor dry on any oil/gas/diesel or whatever that spills, then sweep it up after absorption. I don't really "clean" my shop floors all that often. I guess a quick rinse with the garden hose once in a while.

I'm still hesitant to get into a sealed floor. I'm just a small town farm kid that want's a shop to work in. I would love the floor to not soak up oils and such so that it looks good in 10 years, but I don't want something I'm going to have to re-do.

I guess unless I spread something on top of the concrete that will eventually wear off, I'm not going to be able to prevent stains and such?

I'm starting to think just throwing a densifier down to stop dusting and be done with it. It's gonna get stuff dropped on it. . . when my truck falls off the jack stands and lands on a brake rotor on the floor, is the sealer/clear coat just gonna dent or what happens?

I don't want to trade a functional floor for a nice looking one. . .that's just stupid. It's my garage, not my wife's latest pair of shoes.

Thanks for all the info provided thus far! I'm sure I'll come to an educated decision eventually. . .

 

[carwheelslover]

good topic

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

KP:

Grit and dirt that is not removed from time to time acts like sand-paper. If you don't clean your floor it will not last as long and that is a fact.

Don't change your engine oil and the motor doesn't last as long, same thing.

Not trying to scare you, it's reality.

 

[KPSquared]

Hey that's cool. Geez Scotty, do you ever go to bed? Oh wait, it's probably not 4:30 AM out east. . . I'm just killing time on a midnight shift.

I'm leaning more and more toward the idea of Seal/Clearcoat but the cost may be slightly prohibitive. I hate to have to put off buying my hoist for the sake of my floor, but priorities are priorities. . .

I guess if I sink money into a well built flooring system, I'll probably be more motivated to keep it maintained. This is the first shop I will be in that is actually MINE. Built by me, paid for by me. When I think about that, I'll probably treat it like one of my tools. Cleaned up and put to bed before I'm done for the night. . .every night.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

KP:
Exactly. You don't invest this much of your time and money without a little maintenance.
The first time you get to clean up an oil spill with a paper towel and it's totally gone will be a VICTORY for you.

 

[KPSquared]

Another question that just popped into my head with the paper towel comment. . .

With the Soft Skid in the top coat, whats the grit like? I can see a paper towel shredding it's self on some crazy aggressive surface like grip tape on a skate board. . . I know this probably isn't the case, but it's a good image.

How will a paper towel wiping up oil react to the traction additive?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Soft Skid is actually tabular alumina.
Tabular alumina is oval shaped and won't shred a mop or hurt your feet like typical aluminum oxide or ottowa sand.

We use in coatings that are used where bare feet will be the norm.

Spills are still cleaned up with this additive incorporated into the urethane.

 

[KPSquared]

Cool. That's what I like to hear.

Now, I just need to figure out how to afford this. . .That quote I got hurt a bit. . . I really would like to use your products (good customer service goes a LONG way for me) but the cost of getting them to my doorstep up here in Western Canuckistan could be prohibitive.

I'm going to bang on the doors of some local concrete suppliers armed with my new found knowledge and see what the local market possesses. I've been in a lot of farm shops around here and I've never seen one with any sort of coating on the floor. Same with garages. It's not that common in these parts and the last concrete guys I talked to had never done anything like epoxy or any other coatings.

There is some great info in this thread now. Thanks Scotty!