oxyacetylene welding - tank type and storage

[garage-ist]

hey guys i am a new member here but have been enjoying the threads since i started looking in to getting a torch a week or so ago and you guys seem to know what you are doing and have some dam cool projects going on.. love the for sale forum too and if (i can get some good advice from some of you) i'd like to live long enough to be a productive member of this place .

after typing everything out i'm just putting this in here as a warning.. a lot of this stuff is background and kind of arbitrary to my questions but i would definitely appreciate your opinions and don't want to scare anyone with experience with the subject matter away. scroll down if you don't wanna read it all

anyways after a few real late night ebay stints and way too many hours of internet research, i decided i wanted an oxyacetylene rig. after checkin in to it, i decided against to little tote a torch setups because the cylinders run out quickly and are way more expensive to refil than a bigger cylinder with a real working load. i decided the victor super range II set was the one for me because honestly i liked the built in flashback valves and the regulator fittings fit larger tanks. priced it out with some tanks that would fit it (albeit with adaptors)


a 40 cf acetylene tank with a "b" fitting

and

80 cf oxygen tank


i found all three items from the same seller and asked for a small discount because the total was going to be around 500 dollars (shipping was free) and shipping all three would save his company a lot of money. would have been good business - i'd have done it to secure 450 in sales - but he said no because his prices were already "rock bottom". i was planning on just suckin it up and paying 500 dollars for the set and waiting 5 days to have it ship over here so i can start playin with fire.

but before i irresponsibly crippled my already hurting wallet - something magical happened to me.

called my buddy the glass blower who knows about everything about getting gasses just to figure out where to fuel up when the empty tanks came in and he happened to have the same victor set - used one time and in perfect condition but his supplier wouldn't let him return it because it was opened. i went over after work and the set was better than i could have imagined for having so many people on ebay trying to sell.. this is a very durable set and everything works great. he also made a stop by the cylinder spot today himself and had like 6 or 7 industrial sized o2 tanks and offered one up to me. all in all saved a BUNCH of money and got the torch i have been looking at and an O2 tank that's MUCH bigger.. this thing is almost 6ft tall! this kind of stuff doesn't happen to me so i had to say somethin somewhere

questions start here

but now i have a giant oxygen tank with an awesome torch and no acetylene (he uses propane for his glass)
when i came home to order the a 40 cf acetylene tank with the "b" fitting i noticed upon closer inspection that it doesn't have one of those big steel cylandrical valve covers on it.. this is going to be at my parents house and i'd like to seal it up to keep it safe when it's not in use and when it's being transported. is this not covered because it doesn't have the finger turn nozzel? it has to be turned with a wrench. it's still a nozzle on a high pressure horribly explosive gas but i'm kind of leaning towards getting something like this which is bigger but does offer the extra protection.
so i guess the question is.. am i better off staying with a small one with a potentially dangerous valve exposed or getting the big one that offers the valve protection and fits my o2 tank a tad better but contains almost twice as much explosive material by volume?
it only costs about 5 dollars more to fill the larger one and the initial 40 or 50 dollar investment would feel like nothing if i didn't have to spend an hour back and fourth to the supply shop as often.

and is there a proper way to store this stuff? special summer instructions? now that i think about it i don't see this set up in many home garages and i'm sure the insurance company wouldn't like it there at all unless it was the reason for a house fire (in which case they'd be delighted to see it) safety first would probably dictate a smaller tank?
oh and can i hook up the propane tank to it and learn with the torch in the kit at first or is there a danger of fire or explosion if i use a different type of fuel? the regulator fits standard propane fittings.
thanks in advance any imput is appreciated.. and sorry about how wordy that may have gotten

 

[russlaferrera]

The 300cf tanks will only be exchanged by the owner (gas company) of the tanks. Depending on the amount of welding/cutting you are going to do, get the largest tank size you can afford and exchange at a welding gas company. In my area the welding gas co. was way cheaper to buy tanks than anyone . This is because the tanks are used. When M/T, I exchange them, almost as a leased tank with no fee.

The larger the tank the cheaper the cost of gas. Owning/exchanging the tanks has benefits . You are NOT responsible for maintaining the tank (hydro testing valve replacement.) Larger tanks last longer (welding time.)

I leave my set up on the tanks. I do have them on a cart. Valves off and regulator screws turned all the way out. This ensures no gas leakage. This makes them safe. Never leave the tanks standing without being secured to a wall or something stable (post.)

They use different tips for different gas. Regulators ?? I do not know.

 

[e-tek]

Bigger is better - as usual.The tank caps you refer to are available for free at the filling station, or for a couple bucks at any welding store. If it's a welding tank in transit, it needs a cap. Otherwise you don't use them -you leave the regs on all the time. I like the "half-caps" that are also handles. Reason you don't see many O-A set upsin hoem shops is likely because few people know how to O-A weld. Mig is so mcuh easier - it's like a hot caulking gun comparitively
The tanks are not nearly as dangerous as you make them out to be. Even if one tipped over and broke a capoff, unless there was a spark or ignition source it would just leak out- not that you want that to happen!!
You can't mix propane with Oxygen under pressure - it just won't stay lit. You need to get an Acetylene tank and practice properly. As was said above, secure the tanks to a wall/post/carrier. I use a moving dolly as my O-A cart- perfect size.

 

[autoclassicnut]

I'm not so sure I'd agree with you e-tek... read these articles and comments before giving possibly wrong advise....http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=173277

 

[ossaguy]

Now you guys have me worried with how I store my tanks.I have my tanks chained to a cart upright and all,but they are stored next to the bulk oil container/pump.The setup is covered by a 3 sided wooden box with a top,though.I read where it needs to be 20 feet away from any oil or grease,so I'll have to find a new place to store it,being that the shop's too small for that.Dang!
I've never had a problem before,but what could happen exactly? Is oxygen really that explosive around oil,and how exactly does it get ignited?
Since they don't make "Hard hat" safety covers for my b-cylinder,I just strap the small cart with the chained-in cylinders onto a larger-wheeled 2 wheeler and walk the 2 wheeler down the street a few blocks to get them exchanged.
That's why I would like to upgrade to the large sized cylinders like you guys are talking about,besides the hassle of not being able to draw out more than 1/7 of the acetelyn rule,which is a problem when you get like only a 1/4 full left in the cylinder,and they are so small.
I learned in welding class to always have the pressure screws turned out loose in storage,so when you crank out the oxygen knob,all that psi being released at once doesn't launch the pressure screw like a bullet.Anyone ever heard of that happening?
Steve

 

[Junkman]

I decided to skip to the bottom and just start typing. I bought my tanks locally, and have them filled locally. Print out the page, and take it to your local gas supplier, and ask them if they will match the price. Keep in mind that even if you own your own tank, the local supplier is under no obligation to fill your tank. This is one important reason to buy locally. You will be needing gas more often than you might think, so keeping a good working relationship with the local guy is smart, and good business relations...

 

[goodfellow]

Now you guys have me worried with how I store my tanks.I have my tanks chained to a cart upright and all,but they are stored next to the bulk oil container/pump.The setup is covered by a 3 sided wooden box with a top,though.I read where it needs to be 20 feet away from any oil or grease,so I'll have to find a new place to store it,being that the shop's too small for that.Dang!
I've never had a problem before,but what could happen exactly? Is oxygen really that explosive around oil,and how exactly does it get ignited?
Since they don't make "Hard hat" safety covers for my b-cylinder,I just strap the small cart with the chained-in cylinders onto a larger-wheeled 2 wheeler and walk the 2 wheeler down the street a few blocks to get them exchanged.
That's why I would like to upgrade to the large sized cylinders like you guys are talking about,besides the hassle of not being able to draw out more than 1/7 of the acetelyn rule,which is a problem when you get like only a 1/4 full left in the cylinder,and they are so small.
I learned in welding class to always have the pressure screws turned out loose in storage,so when you crank out the oxygen knob,all that psi being released at once doesn't launch the pressure screw like a bullet.Anyone ever heard of that happening?
Steve

Your welding class warnings are "right on". I've never seen the screw fly off, but have seen a high pressure O2 gauge blow off when a gauge set was installed on a freshly charged cylinder.

 

[speed bump]

The tanks are not nearly as dangerous as you make them out to be. Even if one tipped over and broke a capoff, unless there was a spark or ignition source it would just leak out- not that you want that to happen!!

Ever seen the aftermath of a tank loosing it valve? 105mm artillery shell has less of an impact.

 

[e-tek]

I'm not so sure I'd agree with you e-tek... read these articles and comments before giving possibly wrong advise....http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=173277

Ever seen the aftermath of a tank loosing it valve? 105mm artillery shell has less of an impact.

Comments like these are why I keep saying there's too many Chicken Littles(the sky is NOT falling!!).

You could work 40 years in a welding shop, attached to a refilling station, and never see a tank explode or loose a valve! Can they? Of course they can. Is it likley? No freekin' way. My Dad had a body shopfor 30 years and there was an "old time" rad shop next to it.....certainly not up to the uber-safety standards of today. Never heard of anything going wrong then either.

 

[Jononon]

Even if one tipped over and broke a capoff, unless there was a spark or ignition source it would just leak out- not that you want that to happen!!

Oxygen plus oil can generate a spontaneous fire, no ignition source is required.

 

[rinny_tin_tin]

Now you guys have me worried with how I store my tanks.I have my tanks chained to a cart upright and all,but they are stored next to the bulk oil container/pump.The setup is covered by a 3 sided wooden box with a top,though.I read where it needs to be 20 feet away from any oil or grease,so I'll have to find a new place to store it,being that the shop's too small for that.Dang!
I've never had a problem before,but what could happen exactly? Is oxygen really that explosive around oil,and how exactly does it get ignited?
Since they don't make "Hard hat" safety covers for my b-cylinder,I just strap the small cart with the chained-in cylinders onto a larger-wheeled 2 wheeler and walk the 2 wheeler down the street a few blocks to get them exchanged.
That's why I would like to upgrade to the large sized cylinders like you guys are talking about,besides the hassle of not being able to draw out more than 1/7 of the acetelyn rule,which is a problem when you get like only a 1/4 full left in the cylinder,and they are so small.
I learned in welding class to always have the pressure screws turned out loose in storage,so when you crank out the oxygen knob,all that psi being released at once doesn't launch the pressure screw like a bullet.Anyone ever heard of that happening?
Steve

Oily rags can *spontaneously* combust without any help at all...that is the reason for oily rag cans. Many homeowners take on Spring cleaning projects that involve linseed oil and other wood refurbishing oils- and then leave the used rags in a garbage can or on a shelf - and then come home to find the Fire Department rolling up their hoses. Therefore, you don't want to have anything potentially combustible around C2H2 or O2 (Look up BLEVE)

Also, from my recollection, the max safe pressure for C2H2 is 15 PSIG - otherwise it can explode. The C2H2 is dissolved in Acetone (someone more up to date please help out here) and C2H2 tanks include a heat dissipating mesh to normalize temp variances in the Acetone/C2H2 substance. The C2H2 behaves predicably when the solvent and mesh are ion contact with the gas - that is, upright. It is important that your C2H2 tank stays upright and why the recs are to chain the tanks to something rigid. If you keep the tanks away from combustible material including any sources of ignition heat/electric/sunlight, you keep them protected from potential for physical damage, etc and keep extinguishers and fire detection means about - then you have reasonably maximized safety

 

[danski0224]

I'm not so sure I'd agree with you e-tek... read these articles and comments before giving possibly wrong advise....http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=173277

I hope you spent some time reading here.^^^

and is there a proper way to store this stuff? special summer instructions? now that i think about it i don't see this set up in many home garages and i'm sure the insurance company wouldn't like it there at all unless it was the reason for a house fire (in which case they'd be delighted to see it) safety first would probably dictate a smaller tank?
oh and can i hook up the propane tank to it and learn with the torch in the kit at first or is there a danger of fire or explosion if i use a different type of fuel? the regulator fits standard propane fittings.
thanks in advance any imput is appreciated.. and sorry about how wordy that may have gotten

The best thing to do would be to let the local fire department know about any potentially hazardous things in your garage... and I bet compressed gas cylinders qualify as dangerous (even if the gas isn't flammable). Their life could depend on it.

In case you didn't read the link to the RIDGID forum, you are never supposed to store cylinders with regulators attached.

Oxygen and acetylene cylinders in storage should be separated by 20 feet.

A cylinder cart is used to transport cylinders to the work area, not the same as storing them.

Always fully back seat the valves on compressed gas cylinders (open the valve until it stops). Open acetylene valves 1/4 turn only.

Never move cylinders without those protective caps.

Never move cylinders by tipping them and rolling them along the bottom edge.

Always chain the cylinder to the cart you are using to move it.

Acetylene cylinders have a lead plug. Do not drop them or else the plug comes out and you will have a big problem.

Sounds stupid, but pay attention to the position of your hoses compared to where the slag is landing.

*NEVER* use any oil or compounds on oxygen threads.

Always fully open regulator adjustment screws when you are done.

Always treat your torch with respect and remember what is in those cylinders.

 

[Jononon]

Oxygen and acetylene cylinders in storage should be separated by 20 feet.

"...or by a noncombustible barrier at least 5 feet high having a fire-resistance rating of at least 1/2 hour."

 

[Tantara]

Some tanks are built so the valve is recessed down below a protective ring. I believe the caps are not required in that case. In other words the bottle itself protects the valve. It sounds like you might have one of these tanks. I have worked in welding shops for more than 30 years and I have never seen anyone put bottles on a cart only when they are using them.

Brad

 

[dxdexter]

Oxygen plus oil can generate a spontaneous fire, no ignition source is required.

I had a oxygen regulator (Air Liquide) explode many years ago. I had picked it off the bench and hooked it up and as soon as I cracked the valve, the side exploded and shot flames around 10 feet up the wall. Luckily it was on the opposite side from me. I was standing on the side with the pressure adjustment. The result was a 1.5" diameter hole literally melted through the brass body. The safety guys figured it was contaminated with oil.

It scared the living **** out of me.

 

[e-tek]

OMG - everyone's a fireman.....

I don't mean to piss anyone off - and I appriecate the helpful nature of the posts. BUT- do you really think everyone with an O-A set up is taking the regs off every time they don't use them for a while? Come on. Mine have been attached to the same setup (different tanks) for 25 years! So are ALL the other people I know in hundreds of home and commercial shops across many cities!
As for telling the fire department - I asked a firefighter friend this and he said: "We don't have the time or resources to care. We have to assume these things. We can't have a list of everyone who thinks they have something dangerous in their garage - that'd be just about everyone!"
As for storing O and A by 20 feetor a barrier.....blah...blah....that's all nice and code-like, but it just doesn't happen. Have any of you worked in a commercial shop before?? Have you ever BEEN in a commercial shop? If you had you'd know it: (a) Isn't happening, and (b) isn't considered important....WHY? Because (if you have half a brain and some common sense) those things are just not bombs waiting to ignite at a "oily rags" notice

But really, I'm all for safety and common sense....I'm just anti-chicken-little.

 

[dxdexter]

Nice rant e-tek.

While I'm not sure who whom you directed your post. My experience was in a large commercial fabrication shop with over 30 welding machines and many oxygen and MAPP setups and they took safety seriously, but sometimes **** happens. We were never permitted to move tanks without the caps and cylinders had to be chained to the wall or cart when in use. I never saw a valve break off, but then I never saw a capless cylinder fall over. I am sorry to say that did see the morons on Mythbusters break one on purpose and put it through a block wall.

I think folks are just saying that things can happen. I agree they are rare, but non the less they do happen. Saying they don't doesn't make it so.

BTW as side note from the third post: you can in fact use propane and oxygen instead of acetylene. It requires special tips , but burns cooler. I have used a BBQ tank and MAPP tips many times when I ran out of acetylene.

This is my old acetylene regulator I use for propane: You can get a purpose made propane regulator.

This is a two part MAPP cutting tip. The propane tips looks similar.

 

[rinny_tin_tin]

OMG - everyone's a fireman.....

I don't mean to piss anyone off - and I appriecate the helpful nature of the posts. BUT- do you really think everyone with an O-A set up is taking the regs off every time they don't use them for a while? Come on. Mine have been attached to the same setup (different tanks) for 25 years! So are ALL the other people I know in hundreds of home and commercial shops across many cities!
As for telling the fire department - I asked a firefighter friend this and he said: "We don't have the time or resources to care. We have to assume these things. We can't have a list of everyone who thinks they have something dangerous in their garage - that'd be just about everyone!"
As for storing O and A by 20 feetor a barrier.....blah...blah....that's all nice and code-like, but it just doesn't happen. Have any of you worked in a commercial shop before?? Have you ever BEEN in a commercial shop? If you had you'd know it: (a) Isn't happening, and (b) isn't considered important....WHY? Because (if you have half a brain and some common sense) those things are just not bombs waiting to ignite at a "oily rags" notice

But really, I'm all for safety and common sense....I'm just anti-chicken-little.

E-Tek is correct - in the professional arena - most folks have a 6th sense and a healthy intuitive respect as well as the ability to recognize potentially hazardous conditions. Today - although many people are more sophisticated in one sense, they are much much dumber in many other ways. For instance - why does Flavor Flav get more delicious white a$$ than a woman's room toilet seat at Victorias Secret?

On the other hand, there is the Smoking in the Powder Room syndrome - where well-experienced callous-hand roustabouts believe is the safest place to smoke!

I don't know where the 20 foot separation requirement came from - and frankly - I don't believe such a requirement to be reasonable or practical - but for the most part as E-Tek indicates, application of some common sense provides sufficient safety such that a civvy and his/her residence can co-exist with a Oxy/Acety setup.

 

[Jononon]

As for storing O and A by 20 feetor a barrier.....blah...blah....that's all nice and code-like, but it just doesn't happen.

The makers of gas cages must be ruing the day they ever went into production

That being said, cylinders are not in storage "when gas is being drawn or it is reasonably anticipated that gas will be drawn from the cylinder within 24 hours".*

But really, I'm all for safety and common sense....I'm just anti-chicken-little.

That's probably what this guy said -

*My training was to comply with the UK's HSE requirements. While the requirements are broadly similar, I've quoted OSHA as this is a primarily US board. Yes, I'm bored today.

 

[Jared]

Yes you can run your oxy-acetylene setup on propane. you will need a new tip your supposed to use T grade hose instead of R grade propane will eventually rot the R grade. Propane is quite common fuel for cutting most of the scrapyards and shipyards around here use propane. The one problem with propane is that you cant weld with you can braze and solder though.

 

[jhn9840]

I worked in a ship repair yard for nearly 20 yrs and never saw one accident involving O/A tanks. This included a large storge area. Transporting cylinders in dozer buckets, lifting them by crane bucket or with nylon slings, and in the back of pick up trucks.

Yes, they are very dangerous. But it's not rocket science, just requires a little common sence. Do not move any tank without the cap screwed all the way on. If you don't have a cart make sure the tanks are sitting on firm level ground out of the high traffic areas, against a wall if possible.

When your done for the day turn of the tanks and bleed the pressure off the gauges. If your not going to use them for awhile or have kids running around your shop remove the gauges and replace the caps on them.

Naturally you would not want to store greasey rags or other flammables right next to the cylinders, or have them located where sparks from grinding might be coming in contact with the tanks. Just think a little about what your doing before you act.

jhn9840
John

 

[AZAV8]

As several old philosophers have said, "Common sense is not so common."

Lots of young people have not been exposed to some of the commercial, industrial work places that many of us old codgers have visited and/or worked in. Therefore lets keep talking about safety and how to handle the tools we have and use. Its only by repetition that the young people are going to learn anyway.

That said, this has been a pretty good thread on compressed gas cylinder safety. I have seen the results of "improper" use of cylinders and it can get pretty ugly and scorched. About 35 years ago in Tucson, AZ there was a fire in a welding supply store with a large supply of stored gas cylinders. By the time TFD got there it was pretty well engulfed, so they just pulled back into a defensive posture and watched the fireworks show. Like on Mythbusters, there were cylinders punched through block walls and a few interesting "bottle rockets" flying through the air as well as explosions and intense fire. I saw lots of photographs of the fire scene after it was all out. Most of the cylinders were split wide open from the overpressurization caused by the heat. The lead plugs in the acetylene cylinders had all melted out, allowing the acetone and acetylene mix to escape and all of that was just fuel for the fire. After seeing the results of this fire, it gives you a healthy respect for compressed gas cylinders and havoc they CAN cause if not handled properly.

Like any technology, FOLLOW THE SAFETY RULES, and you will be able to take advantage of the productivity the technology provides. Always have a healthy RESPECT for the technology, and don't let FEAR overwhealm you into not using the technology to your advantage.

Phil

 

[nissan_crawler]

Comments like these are why I keep saying there's too many Chicken Littles(the sky is NOT falling!!).

You could work 40 years in a welding shop, attached to a refilling station, and never see a tank explode or loose a valve! Can they? Of course they can. Is it likley? No freekin' way. My Dad had a body shopfor 30 years and there was an "old time" rad shop next to it.....certainly not up to the uber-safety standards of today. Never heard of anything going wrong then either.

My local welding shop had a hole knocked in the wall, and pictures of a car (******?) that somebody transported a bottle in loose, without the cap. It looked like somebody ran the car over with a tank, pushed it off a cliff, ran it through a crusher, and then pulled it back apart with two cranes.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I KNOW WE ARE TALKING ABOUT HOME USE, BUT HERE IS A CHECKLIST OF THE ROUTINE SAFETY MEASURES THAT APPLY TO COMPRESSED GAS CYLINDERS. (CGA is the recognized expert on this)

FYI: On a personal level I think the rule about breaking down cylinders and removing regulators once they are on a cart and in use is BS myself, but in the workplace in this country OSHA gets the last word on the issue if they enter your business. I have my tanks tied to my cart regulators attached etc. but hey, this is a home shop so I will make the decision on that.

Anyway, the 20 separation of gasses, or fire barrier is true, not BS. So now you know who made up these rules, the CGA



Guidelines: This checklist covers regulations issued by the U.S. Department of Labor, OSHA under the General Industry standard 29 CFR 1910.101. It applies to the handling, storage, and use of compressed gases in cylinders or portable tanks. The regulations cited apply only to private employers and their employees, unless adopted by a state agency and applied to other groups such as public employees.
The OSHA standard adopts by reference the Compressed Gas Association's (CGA) Pamphlets C-6-1986, C-8-1962, and P-1-1965. The following questions relate to the more common precautions to be taken in school environments. The checklist, however, is not all inclusive. The Compressed Gas Association has updated the three pamphlets cited by OSHA as C-6-1993, C-8-1997, and P-1-1999.

Notice the bold statement above says "Precautions to be taken in school environments" These same rules also apply to businesses as well and are enforced by OSHA



Please Circle


Are cylinders stored in upright positions and immobilized
by chains or other means to prevent them from being
knocked over?
[CGA 3.4.4 and 29 CFR 1910.101(b)]

Note: Tragic accidents have occurred when a cylinder
was knocked over, damaging the cylinder and turning
it into a rocket.

Y N N/A ??


Are cylinders stored away from highly flammable
substances such as oil, gasoline, or waste?
[CGA 3.3.6]

Y N N/A ??


Are cylinders stored away from electrical connections,
gas flames or other sources of ignition, and substances
such as flammable solvents and combustible waste material?
[CGA 3.5.1]

Y N N/A ??


Are flammable gases separated from oxidizing gases
in storage areas? [CGA 3.3.3]

Note: Acetylene and propane cylinders should be
separated from oxygen cylinders when not in use.

Y N N/A ??


Are oxygen and fuel gas cylinders separated by
a minimum of 20 feet when in storage?
[CGA 3.5.3]

Note: A fire-resistant partition between the cylinders
can also be used.

Y N N/A ??


Are storage rooms for cylinders dry, cool, and
well- ventilated? [CGA 3.3.5]

Note: The storage rooms should be fire resistant and the
storage should not be in subsurface locations. Cylinders
should be stored in secure areas at temperatures below
125ºF, away from radiators or other sources of heat.

Y N N/A ??


Are cylinders stored away from incompatibles, excessive
heat, continuous dampness, salt or other corrosive
chemicals, and any areas that may subject them to damage?
[CGA 3.3.7 and 29 CFR 1910.101(b)]

Note: Rusting will damage the cylinder and may cause
the valve protection cap to stick.

Y N N/A ??


Is the storage area permanently posted with the names
of the gases stored in the cylinders?
[CGA 3.3.2 and 29 CFR 1910.101(b)]

Y N N/A ??


Do all compressed gas cylinders have their contents and
precautionary labeling clearly marked on their exteriors?
[29 CFR 1910.101(b)]

Y N N/A ??


Are all compressed gas cylinder valve covers in place
when cylinders are not in use?
[29 CFR 1910.101(b)]

Y N N/A ??


Are all compressed gas cylinders stored so they
do not interfere with exit paths?
[29 CFR 1910.101(b)]

Y N N/A ??


Are all compressed gas cylinders subjected to
periodic hydrostatic testing and interior inspection?
[29 CFR 1910.101(a)]

Note: This is normally done by the supplier.

Y N N/A ??


Do all compressed gas cylinders have safety pressure relief
valves? [29 CFR 1910.101(c)]

Y N N/A ??


Are cylinders always maintained at temperatures
below 125ºF? [CGA 3.1.12]

Note: A flame should never come in contact with any
part of a compressed gas cylinder.

Y N N/A ??


Are safety relief devices in the valve or on the cylinder
free from any indication of tampering?
[CGA 3.1.14]

Y N N/A ??


Is repair or alteration to the cylinder, valve, or safety
relief devices prohibited? [CGA 3.1.15]

Note: All alterations and repairs to the cylinder and valve
must be made by the compressed gas vendor.
Modification of safety relief devices beyond the tank
or regulator should only be made by a competent person
appointed by management.

Y N N/A ??


Is painting cylinders without authorization by
the owner prohibited? [CGA 3.1.20]

Note: Often color codes are used to help designate
cylinders. Arbitrary paint is not recommended.

Y N N/A ??


Are charged or full cylinders labeled and stored
away from empty cylinders?
[CGA 3.3.4 and 29 CFR 1910.101(b)]

Y N N/A ??


Is the bottom of the cylinder protected from the ground
to prevent rusting? [CGA 3.3.9]

Y N N/A ??


Are all compressed gas cylinders regularly inspected
for corrosion, pitting, cuts, gouges, digs, bulges, neck
defects and general distortion?
[29 CFR 1910.101(a)]

Y N N/A ??


Are cylinder valves closed at all times, except when
the valve is in use? [CGA 3.1.15]

Note: Regulator diaphragms have failed, and unwanted
gas was delivered to an area or apparatus, causing
safety and health problems.

Y N N/A ??


Are compressed gas cylinders always moved, even
short distances, by a suitable hand truck?
[CGA 3.2.6]

Note: They must never be dragged across the floor.
Serious accidents have occurred when a cylinder with
a regulator in place was improperly moved. The cylinder
fell, causing the regulator to shear off, and the cylinder
rocketed through several brick walls.

Y N N/A ??


Is using wrenches or other tools for opening and closing
valves prohibited? [CGA 3.4.9]

Note: Hammering on valve wheels to open them should
be strictly prohibited. For valves that are hard to open,
contact the supplier for instruction.

Y N N/A ??


Are suitable pressure regulating devices in use whenever
the gas is emitted to systems with pressure-rated
limitations lower than the cylinder pressure?
[CGA 3.4.5]

Y N N/A ??


Are all compressed gas cylinder connections such as
pressure regulators, manifolds, hoses, gauges, and relief
valves checked for integrity and tightness?
[29 CFR 1910.101(a)]

Y N N/A ??


Are all compressed gas cylinders regularly subjected to
leak detection using an approved leak detecting liquid?
[29 CFR 1910.101(a)]

Note: Ordinary soap solution may contain oils that are
unsafe when used with oxygen cylinders. Leak detection
liquids are available from commercial welding supply
houses.

Y N N/A ??


Is an approved leak-detection liquid used to detect flammable
gas leaks ? [CGA 3.5.2]

Note: A flame should never be used.

Y N N/A ??


Are procedures established for when a compressed gas
cylinder leak cannot be remedied by simply tightening
the valve? [CGA 3.1.6]

The procedures should include the following:


Attach tag to the cylinder stating it is unserviceable.


Remove cylinder to a well ventilated out of doors
location.


If the gas is flammable or toxic, place an appropriate
sign at the cylinder warning of these hazards.


Notify the gas supplier and follow his/her instructions
as to the return of the cylinder.

Y N N/A ??


Are students/employees prohibited from using compressed
gases (air) to clean clothing or work surfaces?
[29 CFR 1910.101(b)]

Y N N/A ??


Are compressed gases only handled by experienced and
properly trained people? [CGA 3.4.1]

Y N N/A ??








Source of additional information:


Handbook of Compressed Gases, Compressed Gas Association, Arlington, VA, latest edition.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Bump................................

 

[lilredex]

G-ist---- You never said what you settled on. I chose the "B" plumber's tank and the 80 CuFt. Oxy. tanks you originally contemplated. They have served me well along with those Victor med. duty torches. As a hobby welder they fill my needs and fill the tanks once or twice a year depending upon how ambitious I am. I never use that "rosebud" head pictured as it will really do a job on tanks that size. Instead, I use the cutting head for occasional heating and use a 4 1/2" grinder for most cuts and demolition work.

BTW: have to take exception to that earlier comment about O-A welding being difficult. If anything it is very controllable, forgiving and almost a relaxing way to weld. You can move at your own pace, start, stop, backtrack or what ever. Also a good training ground if you ever want to move on to TIG. For small stuff my first choice is always O-A. Think the MIG choice has more to do with $$$$ at start-up.

You can see my stuff here:






Lilred.

 

[porschedude996TT]

Oxygen plus oil can generate a spontaneous fire, no ignition source is required.

I think you need a little heat for this to fly. Oil/Grease or any fuel require an ignition source before it can combust. Otherwise they would be classed as Hypergolic. Oil/Grease and oxygen are not Hypergolic.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypergolic

 

[trainer]

A former police officer told me of an incident when he was stationed at a remote post in Northern Ontario.

In the winter, they kept getting calls for oxygen tanks being stolen or vandalized from a mining camp.

A few weeks later they would have some stolen, but the same amount were left laying around with the valves broken off.

what they found was some local kids would strap the cylinders to a sled, everyone would hop on, then they would knock the valve off witha big hammer or something similar.
They found a bunch of discarded tanks 1/4 mile down the road thrown over a snowbank

It seems that they got tired of dragging the sled back for the next run, so they figured out that they could strap two cylinders on and save one for the return trip.

 

[kf4zht]

Rapid air movement over a surface causes heat. This may or may not cause the fire with grease but I know that it is flammable with no obviuos heat source.

O2 under pressure does some strange things, talk to a technical diver about oxy or high mix nitrox bottles. Fortuanatly the welding industry has been doing this long enough most of those problems have been taken care of, there are very few accidents other than stupidity/ignorance.

Oh, it's a bit late but when you were talking about trying to buy the stuff online, always give your local shop a chance. Most have a bit of wiggle room and I would rather spend 5% extra with them knowing they will be taking care of me in the future for consumables. Sometimes you can find a better deal there than anywhere (80cf C25 tank full for $100) just by talking to them.