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paint and primer question

rob in nh

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the sheetrock is almost ready for paint and primer. i was thinking of using the paint that also works as a primer. i've used it on wood trim and it worked well. anyone use it on sheetrock and how were the results?
 
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Kevin C

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http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=213813

I just painted with "BEHR PREMIUM PLUS ULTRA" First coat was great, no primer ~ About $34 a gallon. A second coat will make it perfect. Originally I was going to go with one coat of primer / sealer and two color coats. On the test panels I tried just the paint and it went down so easy that all we used.

We did buy premium rollers.
 

Angelfire

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Did a test with the behr premium and ultra. Used both over plain dywall. No difference between the two. After 2 coats, you couldn't tell the difference. Also did this over primed drywall. Again no difference but both covered much better. So bottom line for me was the primer/paint in a can is marketing hype. Prime then paint with the premium if going with behr. The ultra is no better
 

Kevin C

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Did a test with the behr premium and ultra. Used both over plain dywall. No difference between the two. After 2 coats, you couldn't tell the difference. Also did this over primed drywall. Again no difference but both covered much better. So bottom line for me was the primer/paint in a can is marketing hype. Prime then paint with the premium if going with behr. The ultra is no better

I ran a similar test, and got better results with no primer. According to Consumer Reports the ultra scored significantly better in their tests (77 out of a possible 100 vs 67) , that included how well it held up to cleaning.

Paint Type---------------------Ultra-----Premium:

Hiding------------------------Very Good------Good
Staining-----------------------Excellent------Excellent
Gloss Change (from cleaning)----Good---------Poor
Scrubbing---------------------Excellent-----Excellent
Surface Smoothness----------Very Good----Very Good

The Behr Ultra was the #5 paint of all satin paints tested, the Premium was #19.

Nice to be able to skip the primer with the all in one, two coats vs three, saved time and money.
 
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dodgepolara500

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I can't see using a paint/primer for raw wood as you need to have two to three coats of paint on wood for a long lasting and good looking finish. If you can, use oil based primer on wood. In California, the idiots in our legislature have outlawed oil based paint due to the VOC. You can only by Kilz in a quart can.
As for drywall, you can get PVA for much cheaper than paint, so in the long run it is cheaper and likely longer lasting.... but then again I am old school in that way.
 

Kevin C

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thanks for the replies, has anyone had any adhesion problems since your not using a primer?

I tested using painters tape rubbed into the paint and pulled at a 90° angle. None of the samples had any paint lifting ( over sheet rock and mud).

I went a bit more extreme and used rubberized window sealing tape (Protecto Wrap). Same result on both the primed and the un-primed surfaces, no lifting.

I did leave some adhesive behind on the paint, but no peeling.

The same test over mud resulted in a couple of small paint flecks coming loose, but no peeling. This is super sticky tape....

Passed my test.
 

Tim The Tool Man

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I have used the stuff against my better judgment a couple times (customer bought the paint before I started the job). To me the cost of using it makes no sense as PVA is dirt cheap and can be tinted dark (for free) should the job call for it. My real issue with the Behr Ultra all in one was when you are painting a dark color. The paint does not hold up well at all. I painted the inside of a movie theater with a dark Terra Cotta color and it looked fine but don't even think of touching or washing the paint! Now, 2 years later the painted walls look absolutely horrible!

I strongly recommend a traditional pva primer and then paint. I use Sherwin Williams almost exclusively on all the jobs I do that require paint.
 
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JimmyTheMonkey

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With all of the time and effort involved in painting something, especially in the house, the extra $30 and 4 hours it takes me to put down a coat of high quality primer is worth it. Even if it only makes the final product last a couple of years longer down the road, it is worth it to spend the little extra time and money now as opposed to having to redo the entire thing earlier down the line. I use the same approach when buying paint as well. Paying a few bucks extra for paint that will last longer is definitely worth saving a few dozen hours down the line!
 

Tim The Tool Man

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PVA, polyvinyl acetate. PVA primer is a latex-base product that seals the pores of the drywall. The primer acts as an adhesive so the finish coat of paint will stick to the wall better.
 

ddawg16

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When you consider that you have to put down two coats of the paint/primer...and that it cost more/gal....is it not cheaper to just do a coat of primer first?

I prefer primer first....main reason....I can go back and fix and drywall/mud mistakes....yea, you can do that over paint too....but it's just easier over primer...

Also...I use a heavy nap roller with the primer....it sort of provides a texture that you can't quite get with paint.

Sorry...I'm old fashioned....paint and then primer....
 
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rob in nh

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thanks tim for the answer to the primer question. i'll look into the primer for the walls but as far as the ceiling its done, 2 coats of paint and it looks real nice.
 

Kevin C

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For satin wall paint the best rated is Clark + Kensington from Ace Hardware at about $32 a gallon... Another all in one primer paint.

The lowest rated satin paint was Sherwin-Williams Duration Home Satin. Worst rated for being able to scrub a stain out. The only thing it rated well at is gloss change from cleaning. Sherwin-Williams typically finished bottom of the pack.

With VOC reductions, a lot of paints have been reformulated over the past couple of years. What was good last time you painted, might not be all that, or a mid range paint was improved.

My info is on current paints.. as in the past seven days. Again, if the job of the primer is to insure adhesion, and according to my tests its not longer an issue whats the point? Any paint is going to "seal the pores" in drywall. Again this is bases on two color coats over a single coat of primer. If you can do one color over tinted primer, you can save a couple of dollars. I went with two coats of color.... It ended up smoother than the three coats with primer.

I know change is hard and it feels wrong to skip the primer. What I can say for sure, is that it worked for me.
 
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rob in nh

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forgot to mention i used zinsser ceiling paint, 24 a gallon and am happy with the results.
 
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Omphaloskeptic

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Painting is a pain, especially when working on fresh drywall. I just did a cramped loft with a roller and brush using a PVA wallboard primer followed by a single satin color coat tinted off-white. The paint was 'ColorPlace' put out by Wal-Mart (lol) that the original builder left behind. I was surprised at how well it rolled out with good coverage and very little roller spray/spatter. I got another 5 gal. bucket of PVA primer at Ace Hardware to continue work in the shop area and the 'Paint Pro' at Ace stated that "Paint (in a container) never goes bad" and he also said "the PVA primer on fresh wallboard should be given the final (color) coat within 30 days". I'm going to coat the living space using the Ace 'built-in primer' product to see how it lays out and covers, but I have to admit that I'm leery because I guess I'm 'old school' when it comes to painting (prime, then paint).
 
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