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Painting prep

JMURiz

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Dec 6, 2005
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NoVA
I just had a drywalling crew finish up my drywall install.

Wanted to know the steps needed to prep for primer/paint.

I know inside the house I tack-cloth the walls, just wondering what's needed in a huge space like a garage (it would be $$ in tack-cloths for sure!).

Any tips/tricks for prepping fresh drywall for paint?

FYI I plan on using the Kilz premium due to the mold/mildew retarder...living near the DC swamp land, I figure it is worth the extra cost.

Thanks for any ideas,
 
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T56 Impala

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Dec 8, 2007
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Roswell GA
Add some colour to your life! Make it lite though. I suggest no serious prep work. Tape off what you don't want painted. Hit it with the good primer, then paint. The thick primer will cover anything you might think you need to wipe.
 

dpledford

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Jan 29, 2009
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17
Location
Western PA
I just had a drywalling crew finish up my drywall install.

Wanted to know the steps needed to prep for primer/paint.

I know inside the house I tack-cloth the walls, just wondering what's needed in a huge space like a garage (it would be $$ in tack-cloths for sure!).

Any tips/tricks for prepping fresh drywall for paint?

FYI I plan on using the Kilz premium due to the mold/mildew retarder...living near the DC swamp land, I figure it is worth the extra cost.

Thanks for any ideas,

There can be more than one way to prep drywall for painting depending on the level of finish you want and the level of finish the drywall finisher left you with. . From your post you tacked clothed your interior house walls, which is defiantly overkill, you I assume are a high detail individual looking for a top finish. I have over 25 years as a painting contractor completing both upper level residential and production commercial jobs, here are my suggestions for a gloss finish for high light reflection.

The first step is cleaning, while you do not need to tack cloth you do need to vacuum and sweep very well. Make sure you get all corners and electrical outlet openings. If you want to take it one step further use a leaf blower or wipe the walls down with a damp towel over a push broom.

I have used a lot of drywall primers and my main choice has been PPG 6-2 Drywall sealer. Aside from giving a good sealed surface it blends the paper and mud seams very well. There are additives you can buy for mildew.

I have not used Kilz for over 20 years and then it was the fast dry oil base original product, so I am not familiar with the product you are using. The main key is to make sure you put enough product on the wall as you are rolling it, if you spray make sure you back roll. If you have a fast dry product and you skimp on the first application it will dry with a rough texture. If you are planing on a semigloss or gloss finish you may want to consider two coats. The second coat will take approx half the material and about half the time as the first coat.

If cost is a factor, two coats of cheap flat paint will work. However, it will always be dirty, you can't wash it and if you want to repaint with a sheened paint you will have to prime. If you are trying to cut cost use two coats of a primer in white and then down the line you can finish with the desired material.
 
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sammerdog

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Jan 18, 2008
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West Michigan
fwiw - If you are painting your walls something other than white, ask the store if they'll tint your primer. Some stores will ask for an extra dollar or two, but it sure helps your final coats cover better.

just a neat little trick I picked up.
 
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JMURiz

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NoVA
I'm going with silver walls (semi-gloss for those interested), not sure if I'll need a tint, but I'll ask the paint guy.

Thanks again everyone
 

larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
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Location
Northern Virginia
I used the leaf blower technique - blew out all of the crevices and the electrical boxes. Did this two times (second time after the dust had settled from the first time). Then sprayed Behr drywall sealer (white) from Home Depot. After this, brought the drywall crew back with 500W lights to shine the walls and ceilings at shallow angles to identify defects. All point up was then done using tinted compound. After sanding the pointup, re-applied the drywall sealer to the affected areas.

Sprayed the ceiling and walls semi-gloss white Behr, then masked and did the lower wall areas with a roller using different colors.
 

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JMURiz

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Dec 6, 2005
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NoVA
Wow, great looking space, did you use FrogTape for the lines, I have been impressed with it in the past. I may take a look at that Behr drywall sealer as well.

BTW I'm in Arlington, always nice to see all of the local garage spaces.
 

Wolfepack1

New member
Joined
Dec 27, 2007
Messages
1
Whatever you do, DO NOT use an oil-based or shellac-based primer or finish coat over bare drywall.

The solvent base will cause the little "hairs" on the drywall to become raised and you will face some serious sanding to make the walls smooth again.

Latex-only primer on bare drywall, gang. Then, if you want to use an oil-based finish on top of that, you're good to go.

Zinsser 1-2-3 is a great latex primer that can be topcoated with an oil-based finish.
 
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