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Parts washer buy

OccupantRJ

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I landed a Graymills PL-32 parts washer off Craigslist today. Paid more for it than I wanted to, but I felt that it was a better built unit than the light gage import units I had looked at in various places. It has a drop-in pump in a rear cavity, which may provide the opportunity to add an external fluid filter on it's output if I decide. The cabinet seems to be built out of about an 18 gage metal, haven't measured it yet. I liked that the lid has a decent lip around it to help prevent stray sparks from reaching the fluid. Someone has attached the lid spring improperly, but that's an easy fix. Anyone else have this model, and do you like it?

RJ
 

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tcianci

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Feb 7, 2009
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Walpole, Ma
That reminds me of a really old Graymills floor model parts washer that I had. I was all stoked when I got it but then I realized tha it would take buckets of solvent and lots of floor space so I passed it along to a new owner. The unit you got looks alot more like the import one I have now but surely yours is a heavier duty machine. Nice sized unit.
 
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OccupantRJ

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I'll check the motor size for you tomorrow. Probably 1/6 hp. The cabinet is 32 wide, 32.5 tall, and 16 deep. The pics make it look larger than it is. It's just the size I wanted, not too large, nor too small. It will come in handy on refurb of my equipment.
 

sberry

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Jun 18, 2005
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Brethren, Michigan
I have one similar, 36 inch. I like the big size and I set a piece of pipe, 4 inch or so about 2 inches tall over the suction screen to keep silt from sifting in to the suction, the product has to come up over it to get in, keeps it very clean and wouldn't bother with a filter, they certainly didn't come with them. I also cleaned it out and poured a quart of Imron in the bottom and painted it up a couple inches.
I also moved the shelf up an inch or so to get the pallet jack under to be able to move it.
 

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OccupantRJ

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I have one similar, 36 inch. I like the big size and I set a piece of pipe, 4 inch or so about 2 inches tall over the suction screen to keep silt from sifting in to the suction, the product has to come up over it to get in, keeps it very clean and wouldn't bother with a filter, they certainly didn't come with them. I also cleaned it out and poured a quart of Imron in the bottom and painted it up a couple inches.
I also moved the shelf up an inch or so to get the pallet jack under to be able to move it.

Yeah, I was thinking about something similar, or either casters. (Wash & Roll)
:lol_hitti I'm going to put lift rails under several of my equipment pieces and bolt bins to help in moving them around with the pallet jack. This also makes for a good shelf area in a lot of cases. My Bridgeport is on skids right now, and after running the one at work placed on the floor, I might just leave it up like that. It helps with leaning over to see the cut. This washer has a boxed dam system with it already, which is supposed to use a foam type filter media. I was mulling over the idea of an extra filter to help preserve cleanliness of the solvent a little longer, but that will depend on whether the pump will push through it. If the pump is rather strong already, this might even slow the flow a little to prevent splashing, as long as the amp rise on the motor is not excessive. I had a submersible Little Giant pump on my shop built washer, and it was a little strong sometimes for things. A bypass dump valve is another option possibility. That's how I control coolant pump flows at work.

RJ
 
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OccupantRJ

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Fabbed up an angle steel frame to go under the parts washer to be able to move it with my pallet jack when I want to. This will also give some more storage for other items underneath. Got it to this point and came in for lunch. Now I have to go back out and bolt it into place with some countersunk head bolts, and make a shelf to go on it.
 

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txmanager

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Feb 16, 2026
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Poolville, TX
Someone has attached the lid spring improperly, but that's an easy fix.
@OccupantRJ -
Sorry to revive an ancient thread but I have the exact same parts washer with that fusable link on the lid. Mine is disassembled and I'm scouring the internet looking for a schematic or good photos. Any chance you still have this unit and can send me a pic of the assembly?
 
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txmanager

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Feb 16, 2026
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Poolville, TX
@txmanager. Here you go. The lid must lean forward when all is assembled so it will shut if the fuse link melts. The lower corners of the lid will slowly beat back over time from opening and the lid will lean backwards, therefore not dropping into place properly If not kept in a forward lean.IMG_1497.jpegIMG_1496.jpegIMG_1495.jpeg
Ah, thanks! Looks like my fusable link came apart...will have to solder it back together. I couldn't figure out how the 2 pieces were supposed to work. Thanks for this.
 

PoorUB

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Fargo, ND
Ah, thanks! Looks like my fusable link came apart...will have to solder it back together. I couldn't figure out how the 2 pieces were supposed to work. Thanks for this.
Keep in mind that link doesn't use regular solder. Solder flows around 400F. Those usable links melt well under 200F, maybe closer to 150F. You might be able to clamp the two pieces together, heat it up and reflow what is there.
 

nadogail

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Coronado, CA
A filter upstream of the pump is IMHO, better than one Downstream.
Why not feed the pump with filtered solvent?
 
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