I have a 3/4 drive Pittsburgh torque wrench. It's been fine for years and years. But the handle came apart and it just doesn't make sense. The threaded threaded piece bottomed out into the nut leaving only a couple of threads for the barrel. There is nothing that holds that threaded piece into either part. Surely there is a proper assembly process for this. Yes, they need to be recalibrated, yes, Pittsburgh is junk, I got all that. But it's done fine for 15 years, and I'm sure it can go back together. Seems silly to throw it away because of this.
Pittsburgh torque wrench reassembly?
- Thread starter Kozmic
- Start date
Daytonaer
Well-known member
It has a lifetime warranty: you could bring it to the store.
Alternatively the adjustment mechanism backed out. Watch some YouTube videos on how to calibrate the wrench and you will see how it goes together and you can recalibrate at that time.
Alternatively the adjustment mechanism backed out. Watch some YouTube videos on how to calibrate the wrench and you will see how it goes together and you can recalibrate at that time.
It's going to need recalibration upon reassembly, so just putting it back together won't be sufficient. One of the Quinn digital 3/4" torque adapters for about $65 will probably be accurate enough if you want to go that route.
I haven't touched the 3/4" wrench, but it looks like the same design as the 1/2". The small threaded section is what actually turns to adjust the spring tension. The chrome knurled handle is threaded internally, and should be threaded about half way on to the inner black threaded portion. Then the black end cap is threaded on and tightened to **** up against the chrome handle, and lock it in position on the inner section. To get it close, tighten the inner threaded portion until you just start to feel a bit of spring tension. Then thread the chrome handle on far enough to line it up with 0 ft/lbs (if marked). Then lock the end cap. This should get you within 10-15 ft-lbs. Just be careful when tightening up the endcap. You need a strap wrench or some way to hold the handle to tighten it. Just locking the mechanism will result in destroying the chinesium locking pin / detents. (Ask me how I know
)
I haven't touched the 3/4" wrench, but it looks like the same design as the 1/2". The small threaded section is what actually turns to adjust the spring tension. The chrome knurled handle is threaded internally, and should be threaded about half way on to the inner black threaded portion. Then the black end cap is threaded on and tightened to **** up against the chrome handle, and lock it in position on the inner section. To get it close, tighten the inner threaded portion until you just start to feel a bit of spring tension. Then thread the chrome handle on far enough to line it up with 0 ft/lbs (if marked). Then lock the end cap. This should get you within 10-15 ft-lbs. Just be careful when tightening up the endcap. You need a strap wrench or some way to hold the handle to tighten it. Just locking the mechanism will result in destroying the chinesium locking pin / detents. (Ask me how I know
)