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Plumbing question
- Thread starter 1badmach1
- Start date
Rosco
Well-known member
Yes it can be done. Up to code depends on where you live. Tap into the hot and cold for supply and tee into the drain.
wbrian63
Well-known member
Do not tee into the drain. The proper way to add to the drain involves a double fixture fitting. It's a violation of plumbing code to "wet vent" a drain. If you were to "t" into the drain above the tee in the right-hand stud bay, that's wet venting, because you're dumping into the vent for the washer. If you tee into the drain below the tee, then the washer is wet-venting the vent for the sink.
The reason wet-venting is not allowed is under the right conditions, the flow of water from the wet-vented fixture can cause a vacuum in the drain line of the fixture below the wet-vent connection, which will **** the water out of the P-trap for that fixture. An empty P-trap is a path for sewer gasses to pass back into the structure.
Remember - plumbing drains are always "Air behind water"
One sweep to the left to accept the washer drain, one sweep from the right to accept the sink drain, and one up for the vent.
The sink and the washer should be able to share the same 1-1/2" vent line.
What you need looks like this:
http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp?P_ID=152532
It's a larger fitting than the tee that's currently there. Get one that has 2" collars on the left, right and bottom, and a 1-1/2" collar in the middle. If you can only get 2x2x2x2, then get a 2" to 1-1/2" flush bushing for the middle top collar.
Other than that, tee into the water lines as previously noted, and you're good to go.
The reason wet-venting is not allowed is under the right conditions, the flow of water from the wet-vented fixture can cause a vacuum in the drain line of the fixture below the wet-vent connection, which will **** the water out of the P-trap for that fixture. An empty P-trap is a path for sewer gasses to pass back into the structure.
Remember - plumbing drains are always "Air behind water"
One sweep to the left to accept the washer drain, one sweep from the right to accept the sink drain, and one up for the vent.
The sink and the washer should be able to share the same 1-1/2" vent line.
What you need looks like this:
http://www.accentshopping.com/product.asp?P_ID=152532
It's a larger fitting than the tee that's currently there. Get one that has 2" collars on the left, right and bottom, and a 1-1/2" collar in the middle. If you can only get 2x2x2x2, then get a 2" to 1-1/2" flush bushing for the middle top collar.
Other than that, tee into the water lines as previously noted, and you're good to go.
Your going to have a tough time getting a trap on the new sink at that height, we rough laundry tubs at 16",lavs at 19" and kitchen sinks 16" to 21"off the floor depending on the sink/cabinet combo give or take,check some of the other sinks in the home and see how high off the floor the waste comes into the cabinet,you'll see what I mean,looks like that tee for the laundry box is about 30".Some areas allow wet venting some don't,some inspectors I've come across love them some don't.When you cut the line to add a cross as suggested you'll be adding couplings and pipe to make up the cut difference,the cross will make up the same as the tee that is already there and your going to cut out the pipe made up into the fitting,you'll be 1 1/2" to 1 1/4 short depending on the fitting manufactuer,you'll need a 2" cross/2-2x1 1/2 bushings/2-2" coupling/1-1 !/2 coupling/1-1 1/2" 90 or a st. 90/a little 2" pipe/a little 1 1/2" pipe if you can make up a trap at your sink with the waste at that height.Learn to solder it's not that difficult and stay away from the sharkbites,do it right.Just my 2 cents worth of info,sorry about rambling on.Is it a basement house,if so it might work better coming up from the basement,more options.
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