Pole barn insulation

[david.arrington]

I have a 30x60 pole barn built with steel trusses and 6x6 posts on 10’ centers. The ceiling and walls have foil bubble wrap insulation under the metal taped at the joints as a vapor barrier. The ridge and eves are vented. It also has a 6” concrete floor. I would like to insulate the entire space and plan on heating and cooling as appropriate. I live in Maryland so we get a range of temperatures and humidity. I know most will say spray foam, but I need something I can afford to purchase and install myself as time permits. The shop is pretty full and emptying it out for someone to spray foam at one time isn’t feasible. So I’m looking for suggestions on how to handle insulating it, mainly the ceiling, to maintain the ventilation. The picture isn’t my garage, but the exact set up.

 

[racecougar]

Does your building have a ceiling, or will you be installing one? Are your wall girts in the commercial/bookshelf orientation? Will you be sheeting the interior?

Photos of your actual build and the final product you're after would clear up a number of questions here.

 

[Firebrick43]

A pole barn that is not.

 

[racecougar]

Exactly. I'd like to see pics of what we're actually dealing with.

 

[david.arrington]

Sorry for the confusion, the picture was referencing the trusses. I found an old picture with the interior in the background. I can take better pictures when I get home if needed. The goal is to eventually have white steel liner panels for a ceiling and walls.

 

[racecougar]

Do you intend to frame out a ceiling, or are you planning to do a hot roof? If the former, I'd suggest blown insulation atop the ceiling. If the latter, what led to choosing eave and ridge ventilation?

The walls can be done with batts or foam board. Batts would have been easier if the girts would have been installed in the commercial/bookshelf orientation, but it's still semi-feasible.

 

[david.arrington]

I want to frame a ceiling at the bottom of the trusses. How thick should the blown in insulation be?

As far as the walls, are batts or foam boards better for pest deterrent? I read a lot of contradicting stories over ways to prevent them from living in the walls. I have rat guards installed at the bottom of the exterior metal, stainless steel wool in the bottom the exterior corner metal, plus all the bottoms of the metal have 8” of #57 stone around them. But I live in the middle of a corn field, so they will find a way. I understand nothing is 100%, but I’d like to prevent it as much as possible.

 

[racecougar]

I want to frame a ceiling at the bottom of the trusses. How thick should the blown in insulation be?

As far as the walls, are batts or foam boards better for pest deterrent? I read a lot of contradicting stories over ways to prevent them from living in the walls. I have rat guards installed at the bottom of the exterior metal, stainless steel wool in the bottom the exterior corner metal, plus all the bottoms of the metal have 8” of #57 stone around them. But I live in the middle of a corn field, so they will find a way. I understand nothing is 100%, but I’d like to prevent it as much as possible.

To ensure we're talking about the same thing, you're going to frame out the ceiling at the red line below, correct?




Insulation depth depends on climate, material, and personal preference. I'd suggest shooting for R-38 at a minimum in the ceiling. That equates to ~12-1/2" of cellulose or 15-1/2" of fiberglass. You'll need to place baffles at your eaves to keep the venting clear of insulation.

I can't say I'd consider any insulation particularly rodent resistant, even Roxul/Rockwool.

 

[david.arrington]

Correct, I’d like to have a ceiling, either at the red line straight across, or following the bottom cord of the trusses, leaving an air gap above.

Any experience or knowledge of pouring 6” or 12” thick of aircrete after framing the inside walls between the girts? Then put foam boards or batts above? That would, in theory, make a decent seal from rodents and insulate the bottom.

 

[racecougar]

I have no experience with AirCrete. It looks like this is only the sixth thread that has made mention of it on this site.

 

[NWOhioChevyGuy]

If it was me and that style of building.
A) seal up eave and ridge
B) Insulate at full height with bat's and VB
C) Sheet in metal liner panel

biggest advantage in that type of build is interior head room!

 

[ericm]

Some pole barn builders will install big blankets of insulation that go from pole to pole. I don't know how they are hung. Then they put girts on the inside of the poles and fasten the metal liner panels to those.

I think it'd be easier to fasten the ceiling to the bottoms of the trusses than to build an entire structure to support a flat ceiling. Also if the air gaps on the eaves are not screened I'd do that soon. Otherwise you'll get birds in there. If you're somewhere where fire is a concern, use 1/8" screen that will keep embers out.

What sort of heating/cooling/humidity environment are you in? That makes a difference.

 

[Firebrick43]

If it was me I would put 1.5" xps foam cut to go in-between the outside girts, use foam gun to seal any gaps and glue it to the girts. I would then fill in between the girts with a continuous wide fiberglass blanket. Typically you cant buy wide batts at a big box store but have to go to a old fashion lumber yard or an insulation supply house. To hang it you clamp the top edge between two boards such as a 1x3 or 2x4 and screw them together. Scab two scraps of 2x4 to the inside of the post facing each other with the top ledge even and set the clamped boards up on those scabbed on pieces. Applying inside face girts just like the outside. use lumber that will span two post.

I would not frame in between the post, allows a lot of thermal bridging and gaps in the insulation and waste lumber.

For the ceiling the most energy efficient and cost effective would be a traditional ceiling like post 8

I would as well recommend cellulose at an r38 minimum up to R60 if your going to heat it all the time and live in a northern climate.

The only way I would do an unventilated hot roof is with spray foam.

 

[aShop]

Some of the responses in this one seem crazy. These steel web trusses offer a huge headroom advantage to traditional trusses. Framing a flat ceiling complete negates that. A loft in this building would be amazing.

Does anyone have any realworld experience? How does the spray foam do with the existing thin insulation already in place?

Custom Steel Building Kits | Pre-Engineered Metal Buildings

Worldwide Steel Buildings manufactures custom steel building kits shipped factory direct. Design online, explore upgrades, and request a free quote.

www.worldwidesteelbuildings.com

www.truemetalsupply.com

Stroud's Steel Trusses | Steel Trusses | 403 East Fleming Drive, Morganton, NC, USA

Stroud's Steel Trusses sells Pole barn kits, barndominiums, steel trusses, carports, garages, rv covers, riding arenaa, equipment sheds, and metal roofing.

www.stroudsbuildingsupply.com

Best Steel Building Kits & Metal Buildings | Miracle Truss

Miracle Truss provides durable, cost-effective steel building kits for garages, shops, homes, and more. Get a custom quote today!

miracletruss.com