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Polishing pipes

kooldino

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
368
Location
South Jersey
Most of the products I offer are made from stainless or aluminum tubing. Many customers prefer a polished finish, which results in us spending a LOT of time on the polishing wheel in order to get that mirror shine.

Other items are too large to hold, so we use a 6" polishing wheel on a drill on the part.

I didn't know if anyone had any better tools or maybe techniques that could help speed things up.

We usually do the entire item with a fast cut and go over it again with a high polish.
 
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BigE

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
928
Location
Central Alabama
Not to further lawfarm's question, but have you thought about using a ********? If you look up ammo reloading, they use large bowls, usually filled with corn bits, on a vibrating plate to polish the brass. Dump in the corn, a small amount of lubricant, the shells and let her run for an hour or two. I know you said you deal with some large parts, but a custom built oversized model might save you a lot of time. And as we all know, time is money.
 

LoneGunman

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2007
Messages
2,081
Location
The Gunshine state
If a part is too large to hold then a drill is totally the wrong tool for the job, not enough RPM. I plate and polish as a side business that will hopefully grow into full time so I polish a LOT. If the parts are too large too hold a vibratory polisher that big is going to be BEYOND expensive.

I don't know what you are using for a buffer but I wouldn't run anything below 1hp with 8" wheels, I'd prefer a 2hp range Baldor in the 12" range. For large parts they make a hand held buffer, it is HEAVY but it works.

I use 3/4" or 1" aluminum EMT for my samples, I can polish a 6" piece of it to a mirror finish in under a half an hour.

Are you using different wheels for the different polishes? What compounds are you using and what grits for the aluminum and stainless?

Join the site below and post your questions in the link, you'll get a lot more help with specific answers there.

http://forum.caswellplating.com/metal-polishing-questions/

The link below shows some pics of a rotoset and rotostar, that's what I would use on large parts.

http://images.google.com/imgres?img...&sa=N&start=21&um=1&ei=0-JHS7GLNene8AaS6LSCAw


http://www.artcotools.com/suhner-rotostar-flexshaft-kit-c-464-p-1-pr-16951.html
 
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Monte

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2008
Messages
12,725
Location
Germany
Fein, Flex and Suhner make the tools you need.

www.flexnorthamerica.com www.fein.de www.suhner-abrasive-expert.com

suhner_utc_7r.jpg

LRP1503VRAboa_top.jpg

mst184077_rgb_ofc.jpg

fein_rs1270e_work.jpg

anw_lrp1503vra_6.jpg
 
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kooldino

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
368
Location
South Jersey
If a part is too large to hold then a drill is totally the wrong tool for the job, not enough RPM. I plate and polish as a side business that will hopefully grow into full time so I polish a LOT. If the parts are too large too hold a vibratory polisher that big is going to be BEYOND expensive.

I don't know what you are using for a buffer but I wouldn't run anything below 1hp with 8" wheels, I'd prefer a 2hp range Baldor in the 12" range. For large parts they make a hand held buffer, it is HEAVY but it works.

I use 3/4" or 1" aluminum EMT for my samples, I can polish a 6" piece of it to a mirror finish in under a half an hour.

Are you using different wheels for the different polishes? What compounds are you using and what grits for the aluminum and stainless?

Join the site below and post your questions in the link, you'll get a lot more help with specific answers there.

http://forum.caswellplating.com/metal-polishing-questions/

The link below shows some pics of a rotoset and rotostar, that's what I would use on large parts.

http://images.google.com/imgres?img...&sa=N&start=21&um=1&ei=0-JHS7GLNene8AaS6LSCAw


http://www.artcotools.com/suhner-rotostar-flexshaft-kit-c-464-p-1-pr-16951.html


Thank you!

After reading this page I found on that forum, I've come to realize that while I have been using the correct compounds, I have been doing my rough cut with a spiral sewn wheel instead of a SISAL wheel. Hopefully this will cut down my rough cut time considerably.

As for the large stuff, I currently use an ~8amp drill.

Direct link to polishing PDF:

http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/Buffbook.pdf
 
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Monte

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2008
Messages
12,725
Location
Germany
yeah i know... :) but 700$ is pretty good , over here you pay around 870-900 but Euro and thats around $1300.- .............

A lower price alternative is to buy this "wheel" and attach it to a normal polisher or angle grinder....should be around 50$- $60... available from "Flex"

bkFX_z303054_g.jpg

anw_lp1503vr_1.jpg
 
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TA^Guy

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 4, 2010
Messages
205
For large items like wheels or intake manifolds, etc I use my high speed polisher with a wool bonnet after sanding. Like already stated a drill doesn't have the RPM you need and would require a lot longer/more work to get the shine you are looking for.
 

Ign

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
12,769
Location
Butte Peak ND
Yeah I do mine on the lathe, but only messed around w mild steel thus far. I use a Scothbrite pad on my angle grinder. Tried stainless but couldn't get a good pattern 'cause stainless is so tough. In hindsight I shoulda just used an abrasive sanding disc on the stainless, probably would have worked well.

For the best pattern I first use a slow spindle speed, around 40, and then kick it up to 120 or so and go again.
 

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kooldino

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2010
Messages
368
Location
South Jersey
Never tried it on a lathe, but when i did it on a valve cover with an airtool it looked nice, but you could see the "swirl" patterns it left.
 
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