Reciprocating Saw Stroke Length

[Wamsutta]

"1-1/8 in. stroke length for maximum cut speed"

"3/4 in. Stroke Length: Provides maximum cut control"

Both of those quotes are taken from Home Depot's website. Two different models of Milwaukee reciprocating saws. Which is better, speed or control?

 

[BukitCase]

Those both sound like ad-speak ******** to me - I have the corded super sawzall, has a 1-1/4" stroke - it was the ONLY model (when I bought it a couple decades ago) that was counterweighted, you could run it from zero to full speed and it wouldn't jump around at all.

A few years ago I bought one of the 18 volt DeWalts, seems to run as smooth as the Milwaukee - it has a 1-1/8" stroke. It's nice to go prune a few limbs without running a 100 foot extension cord -

Personally I don't like short stroke saws, they tend to wear out a short segment of the blade then you need to set the shoe shorter or longer - also, I've run other recips and ALL seem to be a LOT smoother for control than the older, NON-counterweighted ones - THOSE would make it a serious challenge to cut where YOU wanted to, instead of where the SAW jumped to.

You didn't mention whether corded or cordless; in either instance I'd go Milwaukee if I were doing it all over - I like their batteries better because of the built-in "gas gauge"... Steve

 

[Wamsutta]

Interestingly enough, Milwaukee is showing their new "Hackzall" cutting PVC pipe with a 3/4" stroke blade.

 

[matt_i]

My opinion is you want the long stroke.

That is a roughing tool, not a finishing tool, and so why wait around?

I'm also going to argue its easier on blades since the cutting load is spread out over more total teeth. On some you can move the "shoe" around to distribute the cutting, but its not something I do very much.

 

[finn]

The short stroke may work better for demolition, where you have limited clearance.

I have a handful of “s” shaped blades to support that theory.

Otherwise, a long stroke improves blade life simply because there are more active teeth.

“Better” is a relative term.

 

[rlitman]

Long stroke is better when cutting thicker things, as it pulls sawdust out of deeper cuts. This is especially important when pruning, or cutting a 2x the wide way. Most of these long stroke saws also have orbital action, which aids in cutting wood. This model is preferred by carpenters and contractors.

Shorter stroke is easier on thinner things. So a short stroke saw is desirable when mostly used on metal (i.e. pipe). A lot of these short stroke saws are also not orbital, again, for metal cutting smoothness (where orbital action on metal just makes the saw bounce). This model would be preferred by plumbers and electricians.

So while there is a lot of marketing BS to the statements, each does actually have its advantages to the right person.

 

[WWheeler]

[...] I'd go Milwaukee if I were doing it all over - I like their batteries better because of the built-in "gas gauge"... Steve

FWIW, Dewalt batteries also have a built-in gauge.

 

[rlitman]

FWIW, Dewalt batteries also have a built-in gauge.

On the 18V batteries. The Milwaukee and Bosch 12V batteries I have don't have gauges, but the tools sometimes do.

I too really like the built-in gauge though on my M18 batteries. Its much easier than popping each battery into a tool to know if it is charged.

 

[bsaint]

Long stroke is good for some attachments <_<

 

[rlitman]

Long stroke is good for some attachments <_<

Don't forget the orbital action!

 

[Musicinabottle]

My mom...... and wife..... would slap my mouth if they heard me talk like that. Geeze.

Long stroke is where it's at when it comes to sawzalls. I think they all have orbital action these days, so no need to even discuss that.

 

[guy48065]

Long stroke is good for some attachments <_<

There needs to be a "Stroke Length Multiplier" attachment for it to be much good for THAT.

 

[WWheeler]

"Stroke Length Multiplier"

Just gave me a name for my wife's new sundress.

 

[BukitCase]

Agreed, recip saw is one or two steps above an AXE on the "finesse" scale, I have a couple DeWalt jig saws for more picky jobs, 3 circular saws for (sorta) straight line work, sliding compound miter and PM66 for the really picky work -

All 10 of my DeWalt battery tools are the older 18 volt, no gauges on the batts. When DeWalt finally heard the enraged screams of people like me, I bought a few of the LiIon 18's and a dual port charger (STILL no gauge on those batts)

Last 10 years of my last 35 in heavy industrial maintenance I ran a rotating crew; 2 Millwrights, 2 Electricians, 2 Welders, 2 Pipe Fitters, 1 Machinist, and 1 Instrument tech (me)

So when my shop got broken into, ($6k in tools and an entire summer WASTED for anything but screwing with insurance/replacements) I noted which tools my guys had the hardest time destroying. DeWalt came in first, followed closely by Milwaukee - exception being the weld shop, almost exclusively Metabo grinders.

Couldn't really see the $$$ they wanted for Metabo, so 9" Hitachi grinder, 5" Milwaukee grinder, about a dozen HF grinders (orange and gray, no "drillmaster", all but a couple are still going). Once I get into a project I do NOT like to change blades/wheels, etc, so at any given time I'll have cutoff, grinder, 3 different wire brushes, at least 1 flap disk and the big Hitachi close by.

If I REALLY don't wanna cut into stuff I can't see (especially if it's only drywall) the Rotozip comes out - depth control like a mini-router. For straight line cuts the small DeWalt 18 volt circle saw also gives depth control...

Sorry, got a bit OT there ; time to shut up and fire up the MM252 again, couple more days and the current project should be ready for paint... Steve

 

[Wamsutta]

Long stroke is better when cutting thicker things, as it pulls sawdust out of deeper cuts. This is especially important when pruning, or cutting a 2x the wide way. Most of these long stroke saws also have orbital action, which aids in cutting wood. This model is preferred by carpenters and contractors.

Shorter stroke is easier on thinner things. So a short stroke saw is desirable when mostly used on metal (i.e. pipe). A lot of these short stroke saws are also not orbital, again, for metal cutting smoothness (where orbital action on metal just makes the saw bounce). This model would be preferred by plumbers and electricians.

So while there is a lot of marketing BS to the statements, each does actually have its advantages to the right person.

That post is worth 60 million dollars. Thank You!

 

[davethorik]

My mom...... and wife..... would slap my mouth if they heard me talk like that. Geeze.

Long stroke is where it's at when it comes to sawzalls. I think they all have orbital action these days, so no need to even discuss that.

IIRC only the Super Sawzalls have orbital.
The $99 HD special does not.

 

[Musicinabottle]

IIRC only the Super Sawzalls have orbital.
The $99 HD special does not.

I don't have proof, but I swear that the non orbital sawzalls last longer. Been through 2 Bosch panthers, a couple Makita pieces of ****, a Porter Cable and a Milwaukee supr Sawzall that didn't last long and now have just a regular Milwaukee that I've had for years now and still no slop on the shaft.

 

[davethorik]

I don't have proof, but I swear that the non orbital sawzalls last longer. Been through 2 Bosch panthers, a couple Makita pieces of ****, a Porter Cable and a Milwaukee supr Sawzall that didn't last long and now have just a regular Milwaukee that I've had for years now and still no slop on the shaft.

IIRC 1 year ago I was gifted the HD $99 special Sawzall and some Diablo blades from my BIL. I have put that thing through its paces cutting about everything imaginable. Even though it's "only" 12 or 13 amps, it has been too powerful in quite a few instances, so I could see a Hackzall being useful. And also IIRC they still are made in USA with US & Global materials, or at least my 1 yr old was marked as such.

 

[Wamsutta]

So the big question now is: What if you take a plumber's Sawzall with the short 3/4" blade stroke on something made out of wood like a tree limb or a tree root; will it take forever to make the cut?

 

[rlitman]

So the big question now is: What if you take a plumber's Sawzall with the short 3/4" blade stroke on something made out of wood like a tree limb or a tree root; will it take forever to make the cut?

If the limb is significantly thicker than 1-1/2”, then it will cut more slowly, though hand sawing with the saw running helps the issue.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Plunge cuts are easier with a short stroke.
The biggest thing is to keep the blade cool enough not to smoke. If you spill some water as you cut, you can cut up an entire car with one blade.