Removing conex floor

[bluedog225]

Has anyone removed a section of conex floor? Just find the right driver and go for it? Or is it more complicated than that? The videos I’ve looked at involve drilling around the screws with a hole saw. But I’ve got a new one, 6 months old. Hoping it is easier.

I’m installing a dual hose portable air conditioner and want to make a neat hole. And an second exit seems wise.

 

[jack stand]

What's wrong with a hole saw?
They have cutters that match very closely with outside diameter of common pvc waste pipe for a tidy appearance.
Maybe I misunderstand what you're doing.

 

[Walkers]

I just removed the floors from 2 40’ and 3 20’ containers. It took some trial and error. I started with a regular impact driver an a 1/4” #3 phillips. I burned up one driver, it is just too much for them. I own a 1/2“ Makita look alike 18v impact driver. I bought a drive head for 5/16“ impact Phillips bits in a #4. They worked well, but I was hoping for faster. I tried my air cat, even on the lowest setting it would snap the drive bits in a few hits. Back to the battery impact, it is what I used for the rest of them.
If you just jam it into the goo covering the screws and let it rip you will get about 75% of them unscrew. If the bit starts to spin stop immediately, then use a pocket knife and clean the debris out of the X and try again. If they just don’t seem to want to unscrew clean the X out with your knife (it makes a huge difference) and try again, still no joy, try to run it in a little then out. I used about 3 bits per 40’ container once I figured it out. The bits I used were Apex bits. https://www.intlairtool.com/fastener-tools/bits/phillips-bits/phillips-5-16-insert-bits/


That is all my wisdom for doing it.

 

[nadogail]

I just removed the floors from 2 40’ and 3 20’ containers. It took some trial and error. I started with a regular impact driver an a 1/4” #3 phillips. I burned up one driver, it is just too much for them. I own a 1/2“ Makita look alike 18v impact driver. I bought a drive head for 5/16“ impact Phillips bits in a #4. They worked well, but I was hoping for faster. I tried my air cat, even on the lowest setting it would snap the drive bits in a few hits. Back to the battery impact, it is what I used for the rest of them.
If you just jam it into the goo covering the screws and let it rip you will get about 75% of them unscrew. If the bit starts to spin stop immediately, then use a pocket knife and clean the debris out of the X and try again. If they just don’t seem to want to unscrew clean the X out with your knife (it makes a huge difference) and try again, still no joy, try to run it in a little then out. I used about 3 bits per 40’ container once I figured it out. The bits I used were Apex bits. https://www.intlairtool.com/fastener-tools/bits/phillips-bits/phillips-5-16-insert-bits/


That is all my wisdom for doing it.

Is any brand of blue tool a Makita look alike? If so that would make my Harbor Freight wrenches Snap On look a likes.

 

[Walkers]

Is any brand of blue tool a Makita look alike? If so that would make my Harbor Freight wrenches Snap On look a likes.

No, it’s a Chinese copy off of eBay. I think I paid $29 for it several years ago. It uses Makita batteries. I complained that it came nowhere near 320Nm and they sent half of it back. It works well, but I doubt if it is as stout as the real Makita tool.

 

[Walkers]

Is…

Nadogail, I received this notification that you are going to reply to my post tomorrow night. I am really curious as to what you will say! I also really like this future forecasting, that will make it really convenient for coming up with epic replies to people posts!

 

[bluedog225]

What's wrong with a hole saw?
They have cutters that match very closely with outside diameter of common pvc waste pipe for a tidy appearance.
Maybe I misunderstand what you're doing.

It’s a big, oblong fitting on the portable air conditioner. Not standard. I’d like to do a clean install without running into the metal floor joists.

 

[bluedog225]

And thanks Walkers. Just what I needed.

 

[nadogail]

Sometimes we don’t get what we want. We have learned to adapt, improvise and overcome.

 

[Lassen Forge]

Someone already mentioned cleaning the goop out of the pseudo-phillips they use, the 2 things you also need is enough downpressure so it doesn't slip, and enough SLOW torque to pull the thing back through the goopy threads... but even then, be ready to deploy the dreaded 3rd option - drill/burr off the heads of the #3.75 pseudophillips (I swear there are some oddball metric version) and once you have the panel off, you can use normal screw removal methods (either vise grips or welding a nut on top and using a wrench) to get the offending stud out...

We built (years ago) a multi-story "steel beach apartment" rescue practice structure out of conexes, and needed to run ladders / stairs between the levels... Amazing the stuff you can do with cheapy conexes. Had a workshop at work made out of 1/2 of a 40 footer (the other 1/2 was storage), once we got ventillation, lights, and insulation in it was like uptown downtown... installed our own roll up door near the center, and a man door near the corner, and it was better than iced lemonade in Summer.

 

[bluedog225]

Sorry to be dense. How do I get from a 1/2 impact driver to a bit? Is there an adapter?

 

[kbs2244]

there is a Phillps look alike used a lot in electronics
it is a classic made in Japan rip off to avoid use fees
A true Philips bit will not work in a high force applicaton
The fit is not right
that may be what is used on the floors

 

[dfiler2]

If you don't have one of these, you need one. You use a hammer and it turns the bit a little the weight of hitting it with the hammer keeps the bit from slipping. Once they are loose you can go back to your other electric driver.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[BukitCase]

Good call - almost anyone who's ever owned a motorcycle likely has one. It's been so long since I rode that I'm not sure I could find mine tho... Steve

 

[bluedog225]

Got it. Cool tool. I didn’t know about it. Thanks

 

[kbuhagiar]

Good call - almost anyone who's ever owned a motorcycle likely has one. It's been so long since I rode that I'm not sure I could find mine tho... Steve

I've had one for over forty years - maybe use it once a year, but when I do it's a lifesaver. Works both ways, too (loosens AND tightens).

 

[LryFx1]

I've never tried to take the flooring up from a container so I'm not aware of what they may have used for screw heads. But the Phillips look alike, but not exactly the same heads I see most often are normally JIS heads. Those are "Japanese Industrial Standard" . A normal Phillips of the nearby size will work on them IF they are not too tight, but the proper JIS taper bit always works best.

 

[Ilikeike]

Good call - almost anyone who's ever owned a motorcycle likely has one. It's been so long since I rode that I'm not sure I could find mine tho... Steve

LOL, why is that!? I have one too, bought when I had dirt bikes.

 

[BukitCase]

"LOL, why is that!? I have one too, bought when I had dirt bikes. "

Mostly because of aluminum cases and ferrous cover screws - by pushing in and turning in the desired direction before using the BFH, it noticeably reduces cam out - plus the shock from the hammer blow helps slightly upset the fastener in the threaded hole, so it's more likely to actually MOVE instead of "screwing up the screw" - with a powered impact, either air or electric, there's too much chance of forgetting to push REALLY HARD on the impact before pressing the destruct button ... Steve

 

[Jacko264]

If you use a impact driver you need a big clump hammer
If you use a powered impact socket gun try turning the bolts clock wise first before removing the bolts
the bolts will be taptite self treading
we used them on bus floors
Graham