All,
I have a good sized garage / workshop where I work on my cars, restoration projects, etc. 6 years ago when I moved in I purchased a compressor. Given the option of a harbor freight 5HP compressor vs an Ingersol Rand, I figured I could buy at least 5 harbor freight $350 compressors for the price of one Ingersol rand. The compressor is 220V 5HP 15CFM at 90psi. It has worked quite well for me until this week. The cast aluminum flywheel snapped. The outer ring completely tore away from the hub.
Of course you can't buy just a new flywheel. The compressor has seemed like it was working harder the past couple of years anyway. I decided to just replace the pump. Looking at my options I can buy a harbor freight one or the equivalent Ingersol Rand or other reputable manufacturer. Since I can buy 3 HF pumps for the price of 1 IR, I purchased the Harbor Freight 5HP compressor pump.
After deciding to scrap the old pump, I took apart the old pump. Of course I can't just toss it, I've got to take it apart and see how it's constructed. It turns out that I one of the cylinders had a blown head gasket. This is probably what added load to the pump and eventually broke the flywheel. I've got no idea how long the head gasket has been gone.
The unboxing of it revealed a much stronger pump. It's cast iron instead of aluminum and at least 30% bigger. The flywheel is a 14.5" instead of a 9". It turns out the pulley ratios are setup so it's a drop in.
I took the opportunity to strip down the tank. I put a plug in the bottom and filled with prep and etch (phosphoric acid etch) and rolled it around to distribute the etch. I then poured out the extra etch and let it dry overnight. I coated the inside with Eastwood internal frame rail paint. I'm very happy with the results. The long extended nozzle/tube is easy to use and very helpful.
The pump base itself is bigger than the old. I had to weld an extension to the base to mount the pump. I purchased a longer belt and am moving along.
My question has to do with the output lines from the pump. The unit is a 2 cylinder V configuration. Each cylinder has an output which is 3/4". The old unit was 1/2". The pump came with a line that connects cylinder 1 to cylinder 2's output. The fitting on cylinder 2 is 3/4" MPT to go into the cylinder, 3/4" flare to go to cylinder 1 and 3/4" compression fitting.
Since the tank's input is 1/2", the check valve is a 1/2" flare fitting. I'm trying to decide the best way to move forward. Both the old and new lines are copper with aluminum fins. I've spend quite a bit of time searching the internet for another 3/4" copper tube with fins with little luck finding anything that isn't a custom and expensive purchase.
Should I
1. forget the cooling fins and buy a 3/4" high pressure flexible line with a 3/4" top 1/2" adapter for the check valve.
2. Find adapters to make the 1/2" finned tube left over from the old pump work.
3. Any other ideas?
I have a good sized garage / workshop where I work on my cars, restoration projects, etc. 6 years ago when I moved in I purchased a compressor. Given the option of a harbor freight 5HP compressor vs an Ingersol Rand, I figured I could buy at least 5 harbor freight $350 compressors for the price of one Ingersol rand. The compressor is 220V 5HP 15CFM at 90psi. It has worked quite well for me until this week. The cast aluminum flywheel snapped. The outer ring completely tore away from the hub.
Of course you can't buy just a new flywheel. The compressor has seemed like it was working harder the past couple of years anyway. I decided to just replace the pump. Looking at my options I can buy a harbor freight one or the equivalent Ingersol Rand or other reputable manufacturer. Since I can buy 3 HF pumps for the price of 1 IR, I purchased the Harbor Freight 5HP compressor pump.
After deciding to scrap the old pump, I took apart the old pump. Of course I can't just toss it, I've got to take it apart and see how it's constructed. It turns out that I one of the cylinders had a blown head gasket. This is probably what added load to the pump and eventually broke the flywheel. I've got no idea how long the head gasket has been gone.
The unboxing of it revealed a much stronger pump. It's cast iron instead of aluminum and at least 30% bigger. The flywheel is a 14.5" instead of a 9". It turns out the pulley ratios are setup so it's a drop in.
I took the opportunity to strip down the tank. I put a plug in the bottom and filled with prep and etch (phosphoric acid etch) and rolled it around to distribute the etch. I then poured out the extra etch and let it dry overnight. I coated the inside with Eastwood internal frame rail paint. I'm very happy with the results. The long extended nozzle/tube is easy to use and very helpful.
The pump base itself is bigger than the old. I had to weld an extension to the base to mount the pump. I purchased a longer belt and am moving along.
My question has to do with the output lines from the pump. The unit is a 2 cylinder V configuration. Each cylinder has an output which is 3/4". The old unit was 1/2". The pump came with a line that connects cylinder 1 to cylinder 2's output. The fitting on cylinder 2 is 3/4" MPT to go into the cylinder, 3/4" flare to go to cylinder 1 and 3/4" compression fitting.
Since the tank's input is 1/2", the check valve is a 1/2" flare fitting. I'm trying to decide the best way to move forward. Both the old and new lines are copper with aluminum fins. I've spend quite a bit of time searching the internet for another 3/4" copper tube with fins with little luck finding anything that isn't a custom and expensive purchase.
Should I
1. forget the cooling fins and buy a 3/4" high pressure flexible line with a 3/4" top 1/2" adapter for the check valve.
2. Find adapters to make the 1/2" finned tube left over from the old pump work.
3. Any other ideas?