Sanborn 60 Gallon

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Finally found what I feel works for me. I purchased a 60 gallon Sanborn Compressor from Princess Auto. The sale was partly to promote their new store where I live. The suggested retail was $799 and they had it on for $499. This summer I came close to purchasing a used Devilbiss of a lesser caliber which was listed at $450. So for approx $100 (difference of $50 plus $55 tax) think this was a deal.
Sept 18 was the start date for the sale which went hand in hand with their new store. Went in to buy but they wouldn’t let me leave it at the store until I could pick it up. My truck has a topper and laying a compressor on its side is a no no. Found that out here on GJ. Then the weather turned crappy and we were scheduled to go away for 3 weeks. So went back a couple of days ago and they said that PA would honour the sale price as it was a normally stocked item within the last month of the sale.
It appears that Sanborn was possibly once made in the US but this one says assembled in Springfield Minnesota. The third pic I’ll post says 240V, but mine says 230V from a stock photo. I realize that this means the same thing. But just think it is kind of silly. I still normally refer to 110 or 220 this way that way I don’t get any weird looks everyone just knows.
2 questions.
1. It asks for a dedicated 15 amp 230 volt plug would there be any advantage to making this a 20 amp cct? I am wiring all my other standard outlets as 20 amp using 12 Guage. I’m thinking 10 Guage for the compressor cct.

2. It also says to run the compressor for 1/2 hr. On one sight someone was changing oil after the warm up. I didn’t notice any mention of that in the documentation. But I haven’t looked into this too much.

3. I just thought of this. Do you guys actually bolt these down? I can’t drill my cement. Could I just build some kind of foot to dampen down any possible vibration?

I still have my 25 gallon airless Craftsman horizontal tank that is 25+ years old but still works but does take a little longer to fill than it used too. I’m guessing this was probably about $250 on sale when I bought it. So it doesn’t owe me anything. Looking forward to firing up the Sanborn.

 

[The Cobbler]

you did good on the compressor. I think that is a new policy at PA that a sale price you have to take it with you. I just ran into that too, but the store manager overrode that because he knows I'm a good customer.
#1 what is the amp draw on the motor? I wired my compressor to 20 amp and because it didn't have some marking on the motor the inspector said it wasn't legal. he did pass it tho.

#2 Mine says run under no load for 30 minutes but doesn't say to change the oil. it does recommend synthetic tho.
#3 can you anchor it somehow so it doesn't accidentally topple over?

also, d=good deal on synthetic oil on clearout, if your store has any. https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/1-quart-synthetic-blend-air-compressor-pump-oil/A-p8728040e I would love to get my hands on 3 or 4 quarts but no stores within a hundred or more k's of me has any

 

[plinker]

I've read wher some guys will leave the unit attached to the shipping pallet or a similar platform, seems to work.

I myself would change the oil after the 1/2 hour break in, cant hurt anything.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Hi Cobbler
1. Pretty sure the motor said 15 amp but will check tomorrow. I can’t see a problem with at least taking the wiring up a Guage.
2. Okay so 100 hrs running time will be the change time.
3. Since I have in floor tubing no drilling the floor. I could strap to the wall in a couple of places. Plan on using 3/4” plywood for the walls in that particular area for mounting equipment etc.
I checked 3 PA stores in Sask and 3 in Alberta, no stock. The must have blown it out the price was the $3.63 per quart regularly $6.99. They do have the Rolair but it is more expensive.
Thanks

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

I've read wher some guys will leave the unit attached to the shipping pallet or a similar platform, seems to work.

I myself would change the oil after the 1/2 hour break in, cant hurt anything.

Thanks Plinker
The pallet that I got was kind of crappy. But could build a nice platform with some 3/4” plywood and a couple of 4x4s.
I’ll check the oil and decided from there. Do you think there is that great a difference compressor oil and regular motor oil. The compressor oils that I checked on said synthetic blend. So does that mean blended for compressors or like a motor oil. Part Dino part synthetic.

 

[The Cobbler]

Compressors want non detergent oil.

 

[xjfish]

3. No, just put some rubber feet on it. Just my 2c

I doubt that said compressor was made in MN. (Yes, they used to be) I believe Coleman owns that name now?

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Cobbler Good to know about the oil requirement. Will use actual compressor oil in the future.

Fish. I wanted something to dampen the compressor when running. Would hockey pucks work or would it be too stiff. Mine has a decal saying assembled in the USA not made there.

 

[Citation]

Nothing wrong with putting the compressor on its side. You just need to let it sit for while (like 24-48hr) so any oil in the had will drain back into the sump. If the pump has yet to be filled, no issues at all.

Putting the compressor on some rubber feet is a good idea. To avoid a tipping risk anchor it to a wall with a chain or cable.

 

[bugnut]

Upright compressor similar to Sanborn. I used a quick disconnect to attach to my permanent air system, mounted compressor on rubber/urethane casters, also added a ball valve on bottom to release and drain. Does not move with the casters locked, did reduce vibrations.

Caster similar to this, https://www.harborfreight.com/90998

 

[kelpaso1]

Just bolt hockey pucks to the feet. As for strapping it to the wall, why? I wouldn't bother. I've had my 60 gal for 20 years and it hasn't moved even a fraction of an inch.

 

[engineer2]

I've had the same compressor for over 3 years. I used hockey pucks for feet.

 

[SteveH-CO]

Old shock absorber bushings make excellent compressor 'feet' and (gasp!) absorb shock and vibration.

 

[lutter94]

I have that same compressor still bolted to the pallet it came on.

 

[Citation]

Just bolt hockey pucks to the feet. As for strapping it to the wall, why? I wouldn't bother. I've had my 60 gal for 20 years and it hasn't moved even a fraction of an inch.

If you have kids around for one. Also a simple safety tether is really easy.

Btw, i got a free 80 gallon tank and motor because someone nocked the compressor over (bye bye pump)

 

[plinker]

Thanks Plinker
The pallet that I got was kind of crappy. But could build a nice platform with some 3/4” plywood and a couple of 4x4s.
I’ll check the oil and decided from there. Do you think there is that great a difference compressor oil and regular motor oil. The compressor oils that I checked on said synthetic blend. So does that mean blended for compressors or like a motor oil. Part Dino part synthetic.

I've always used non-detergent 30wt. or compressor oil, I dont recall anyone selling semi-synthetic oil off hand. The last stuff I bought was Mobil rarus from Zoro, regular dino grade. One of these years (maybe) I'll switch to synthetic.

Mobil one seems popular with some as well. Not sure if it makes as much difference as it is said it does (detergent vs. non-detergent), but one mfg. calls for it I guess.

 

[American Locomotive]

That compressor is identical to a Husky unit that Home Depot sells (which also says assembled in the USA). Decent enough unit - it's a little on the loud side since the intake is un-muffled, but it's not that bad.

 

[hangfirew8]

Air Compressor oil is standardized as ISO-100, a specific purpose ~30W non-detergent oil. And yes you can use non-detergent 30W engine oil, if you can find it. Or just go synthetic, such as Rarus 427 or Powermate PX.

In humid environments under high use, detergent oil (motor oil) can foam, which bubbles up into the compressor valves, gets oil in the air lines, and under prolonged usage, gums up the compressor valves.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Citation
I won’t likely be moving a stationary compressor, but it might be like moving a fridge on its side. Trick is to leave it upright for awhile before plugging it in. I moved an old 50s vintage fridge plugged it in 2 weeks later and ran like a charm. I was leaning to the hockey pucks but not sure if it is going that direction. Nice job on the free tank and motor.
Bugnut
I like the casters and the idea of a quick disconnect. Maybe locking wheels would work.
Kelpaso
I’m hoping for some grandkids one of these days. When I was a kid I managed to pull one of those big old free standing mirrors on my self. The ledge on the mirror kept it from squashing the hell out of me. I remember my Grandparents having a bird. I was fine but I remember them being pretty excited so will likely strap it up a bit.
Engineer
I’m hoping this will last me until I get dragged kicking and cussing out of this house. So hoping the compressor can keep up with me.
Colorado Steve
Bushings that is a great idea I would imagine so one will use that one. If you did that you should share it on the reuse, recycle thread.
Lutter
My pallet is pretty smashed up, the compressor is fine but the pallet is fire wood.
Plinker/Cobbler/Hangfire
Good info on the oil. My manual calls for synthetic so will make sure that I use a non detergent type.
American Loco
Never even looked at HD. It sure as hell can’t be any louder than my old Craftsman oilless.
Thanks guys appreciate your help.

 

[Wamsutta]

That's a real good looking compressor.

A closeup picture of the American flag sticker would be appreciated.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

That's a real good looking compressor.

A closeup picture of the American flag sticker would be appreciated.

Finally remembered your request. So here you are.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

I’m adding this question to an existing thread. Maybe should have started a new thread but here goes. I have semi installed my compressor. Needed some air to run the brad nailer. Came straight off the tank with a 1/4 turn hit a 3’ of rubber air hose. Connected it up to my 50’ of hose.
Haven’t done a proper manifold as yet. The air adjusting valve is a Campbell Hausfeld MP-1042 as shown below. The problem is it doesn’t properly regulate the air. Fine tuning it is next to impossible. It will stay on 120 lbs but adjusting it done is futile.
I bought CH as I thought it would be a decent valve. Did I just get a lemon or what?

 

[Citation]

I don't think that's a regulator. I think it's a flow restrictor. Can you just install a regulator at the tank?

 

[vanapplebomb]

Sanborn makes nice units. On their consumer grade stuff, such as this compressor, the motors and pressure switches can leave something to be desired, but that is true of all consumer grade compressors, no matter the brand.

That said, Sanborn uses really nice pumps. I believe their single stage pumps are rated for 15,000 hours at 50% duty cycle. For the price, you can’t go go wrong with 60 gallon unit. Sanborn is a big outfit, and they make that same compressor for dozens of privet labels and brands. Dewalt, porter cable, Masterforce, husky, etc...

They are assembled here in the states. ASME tanks are all built and certified in house. Not sure where they source their pumps, but they are unique to Sanborn. Motors depend on what is cheapest to buy. Most the Marathon motors are built here in the states. Seems to be about 50/50 USA or Mexico for the Century AC motors. On their larger industrial air machine products, the Baldor motors are also USA made.

Anchor that sucker down to the floor, and do not leave it on a pallet. Warranty is void if you do that.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

That is a good deal for what appears to be a good 60 gallon compressor. I'm also in the market and I've been thinking about the comparable 60 gallon Kobalt, also made in USA, at Lowes for $589. I noticed the pump is made in China and the motor is also foreign. I'd love to have an 80 gallon but I only have room for a 60 gallon based on the diameter of the tank. Another thing I noticed about the Kobalt was it had exactly the same pump as the higher CFM 80 gallon compressor meaning it's been spun slower so should last longer and be quieter. The quiet component is important for me as it's in the garage under bedrooms. I'm building a shed and the compressor could be lumped into the rest of the building materials so I can capitalize on all discounts I may be able to apply.

 

[vanapplebomb]

The new Kobalt compressors are made by Campbell Hausfeld. In my opinion, the pumps leave something to be desired. Not as efficient as the Sanborn pumps, nor do they seem to have the same longevity, especially at higher duty cycles. Lowes’ switch from Sanborn sourced units in favor of CH was likely a matter of economics, not improved quality.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

I don't think that's a regulator. I think it's a flow restrictor. Can you just install a regulator at the tank?

I actually thought it was what I needed. So what is a made in China Campbell Hausfeld flow restrictor used for? If it works as poorly off the tank as it would work down stream it is basically useless. Or am I missing something? The package says it should be good for up to 160 PSI.
Here is the regulator I purchased today. Works great. purchased at Princess Auto and is made in Italy.

 

[Citation]

I actually thought it was what I needed. So what is a made in China Campbell Hausfeld flow restrictor used for? If it works as poorly off the tank as it would work down stream it is basically useless. Or am I missing something? The package says it should be good for up to 160 PSI.
Here is the regulator I purchased today. Works great. purchased at Princess Auto and is made in Italy.

I used one as a quick shutoff for a hose that was meant to tie two tanks together (that's 5 't's in a row ). I did that because I don't think the store had a ball valve when I was putting things together.

 

[The Cobbler]

you have a flow restrictor, normally used for pain guns and stuff. it's not a regulator per sai

I might have a regulator I can send you if yo want.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

you have a flow restrictor, normally used for pain guns and stuff. it's not a regulator per sai

I might have a regulator I can send you if yo want.

Thanks Cobbler. In my last post I purchased that regulator and life is good. Now at least I also know what a flow restrictor can be used for my paint gun. I always used the regulator off my oil less 25 gallon that appeared to work so why need a restrictor when you have a regulator already?

 

[The Cobbler]

I think they use them to raise & lower the pressure(flow) at the gun so they can easily adjust for getting into different areas etc

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Thanks Cobbler that would make sense. With a little more experience on the spray gun I might be able to use it more efficiently. Won’t help much on my electric Titan.

 

[vanapplebomb]

On a paint gun, you want a true regulator. With a true regulator, you always get the set pressure on the outlet. A restrictor just creates a pressure drop when air is flowing, and outlet pressure is both a function of flow rate and inlet pressure, so it is not consistant. You can’t get paint to lay down nice when your pressure is all over the place. Forget the restrictor, and get a real regulator for painting.

A true regulator is a metering valve.

The restrictor “regulators” are nothing more than a variable size orifice.

 

[mcdanman]

Finally found what I feel works for me. I purchased a 60 gallon Sanborn Compressor from Princess Auto. The sale was partly to promote their new store where I live. The suggested retail was $799 and they had it on for $499. This summer I came close to purchasing a used Devilbiss of a lesser caliber which was listed at $450. So for approx $100 (difference of $50 plus $55 tax) think this was a deal.
Sept 18 was the start date for the sale which went hand in hand with their new store. Went in to buy but they wouldn’t let me leave it at the store until I could pick it up. My truck has a topper and laying a compressor on its side is a no no. Found that out here on GJ. Then the weather turned crappy and we were scheduled to go away for 3 weeks. So went back a couple of days ago and they said that PA would honour the sale price as it was a normally stocked item within the last month of the sale.
It appears that Sanborn was possibly once made in the US but this one says assembled in Springfield Minnesota. The third pic I’ll post says 240V, but mine says 230V from a stock photo. I realize that this means the same thing. But just think it is kind of silly. I still normally refer to 110 or 220 this way that way I don’t get any weird looks everyone just knows.
2 questions.
1. It asks for a dedicated 15 amp 230 volt plug would there be any advantage to making this a 20 amp cct? I am wiring all my other standard outlets as 20 amp using 12 Guage. I’m thinking 10 Guage for the compressor cct.

2. It also says to run the compressor for 1/2 hr. On one sight someone was changing oil after the warm up. I didn’t notice any mention of that in the documentation. But I haven’t looked into this too much.

3. I just thought of this. Do you guys actually bolt these down? I can’t drill my cement. Could I just build some kind of foot to dampen down any possible vibration?

I still have my 25 gallon airless Craftsman horizontal tank that is 25+ years old but still works but does take a little longer to fill than it used too. I’m guessing this was probably about $250 on sale when I bought it. So it doesn’t owe me anything. Looking forward to firing up the Sanborn.

I cut chunks outa old motorcycle tire to mount mine. I also plumbed an innercooler up to rhe intake to reduce noice as I have compressor in my basement. Also installed and electric fan to kick on when compressor does because I’m building a room around it. I also ran 1/4” line outs bottom drain through an electric solenoid valve that I have upped up to a timer call medically drain moisture outa the tank every day. So far I’ve dropped the noise around 11-12 dB and the pump temp has dropped 4°, the inner cooler ***** air up from the basement floor so that helps a lot. I read somewhere if you keep your intake air around 50-60°, change oil when needed, and drain moisture out everyday you should double the life of your compressor. I’ve had mine 12 years now but am just now doing all this upgrade stuff do to remodeling my basement.

 

[dnschmidt]

On a paint gun, you want a true regulator. With a true regulator, you always get the set pressure on the outlet. A restrictor just creates a pressure drop when air is flowing, and outlet pressure is both a function of flow rate and inlet pressure, so it is not consistant. You can’t get paint to lay down nice when your pressure is all over the place. Forget the restrictor, and get a real regulator for painting.

A true regulator is a metering valve.

The restrictor “regulators” are nothing more than a variable size orifice.

Just buy a RTI MR-1 spray gun regulator and be done with it. Get the one with the blue knob instead of the red knob as the blue knob uses Viton seals and can withstand a gun washer.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

I cut chunks outa old motorcycle tire to mount mine. I also plumbed an innercooler up to rhe intake to reduce noice as I have compressor in my basement. Also installed and electric fan to kick on when compressor does because I’m building a room around it. I also ran 1/4” line outs bottom drain through an electric solenoid valve that I have upped up to a timer call medically drain moisture outa the tank every day. So far I’ve dropped the noise around 11-12 dB and the pump temp has dropped 4°, the inner cooler ***** air up from the basement floor so that helps a lot. I read somewhere if you keep your intake air around 50-60°, change oil when needed, and drain moisture out everyday you should double the life of your compressor. I’ve had mine 12 years now but am just now doing all this upgrade stuff do to remodeling my basement.

@mcdanman You are definitely taking your compressor station up a notch.
Welcome to GJ. Start a thread and introduce yourself and let us know where you are from and interests, projects etc. Oh ya and get ready to pull out your wallet, these guys have more ways to spend your allowance than I ever thought possible.

 

[Rinspeed]

Finally found what I feel works for me. I purchased a 60 gallon Sanborn Compressor from Princess Auto. The sale was partly to promote their new store where I live. The suggested retail was $799 and they had it on for $499. This summer I came close to purchasing a used Devilbiss of a lesser caliber which was listed at $450. So for approx $100 (difference of $50 plus $55 tax) think this was a deal.
Sept 18 was the start date for the sale which went hand in hand with their new store. Went in to buy but they wouldn’t let me leave it at the store until I could pick it up. My truck has a topper and laying a compressor on its side is a no no. Found that out here on GJ. Then the weather turned crappy and we were scheduled to go away for 3 weeks. So went back a couple of days ago and they said that PA would honour the sale price as it was a normally stocked item within the last month of the sale.
It appears that Sanborn was possibly once made in the US but this one says assembled in Springfield Minnesota. The third pic I’ll post says 240V, but mine says 230V from a stock photo. I realize that this means the same thing. But just think it is kind of silly. I still normally refer to 110 or 220 this way that way I don’t get any weird looks everyone just knows.
2 questions.

I know this is an old thread but just wanted to bump it up to ask OP how the compressor has worked out for him, any issues? Reason I'm asking is I have the same unit with the Dewalt name on it. Holy **** the prices have went up the last 3-4 years. I only paid $450 on Black Friday at Tractor Supply. I was thinking the other day maybe I should grab a torque wrench and snug up all the fasteners, I have a sheet with the specs.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

I know this is an old thread but just wanted to bump it up to ask OP how the compressor has worked out for him, any issues? Reason I'm asking is I have the same unit with the Dewalt name on it. Holy **** the prices have went up the last 3-4 years. I only paid $450 on Black Friday at Tractor Supply. I was thinking the other day maybe I should grab a torque wrench and snug up all the fasteners, I have a sheet with the specs.

Hi @Rinspeed
No kidding the prices have gone up. A guy should have cornered the market on items like this instead of investing in a retirement plan.
The Sanborn has served me well, it just chugs away on its little hockey puck feet. All connectors on both the compressor itself and the plumbed out line to a hose reel are 100%. This is pretty amazing
considering the combination of copper, pex pipe, copper fittings, shark bite, pressure valves, dryer gates etc that were involved. Seems the only time it has lost pressure is when I leave a certain tool hooked up.
I always turn it off after filling the tank unless it has to run continuously due to usage. I kind of cheat on this as it is easier to turn off at power panel than use the switch. At the moment mine could use a water removal.
Just remember on a torque wrench if adding any additional length to it will throw off your readings. There is an excellent thread on GJ at the moment explaining what can happen. Also explains how to adjust for the problem.
if it were me I’d probably leave any adjustment alone if you aren’t loosing pressure. You might consider sharing the values you have as some may consider them interesting.