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Sealing up garage for winter, need some help

Joined
Oct 29, 2024
Messages
2
Howdy all! Working on finishing out insulating my new garage and sealing out drafts.

TL:DR - How can I get my new bottom weather sealssd to seal better?

Longer version - Recently moved from Florida to the Midwest. I have a garage gym i've got set up and trying to prep the garage for winter so I'm not frozen. We bought a 25-year-old house with a 3-car garage that, to my surprise, has all the walls and attic insulated. However, the three single bay doors were not insulated. So I recently finished installing some 1.5" EPS foam board insulation in all the panels, taping off the seams, and spray foaming any areas I couldn't fit with the rigid EPS.

The old bottom weather seals were trashed with all three doors missing about 3-5" off each side, which created a significant gap under the doors. There was also some spalled/pitted concrete directly under the doors and just outside them. The seals were all about 1/2" thick at most when compressed and a P-bulb channel. So I went and bought new bottom seals and retainers and installed them as I had read that these might seal up the spalled areas better.


They did not seal better. So I got some concrete patch repair kits and filled in and levelled (to the best of my ability) the pitted and spalled areas under the weather seal. While it's better, however, it still will not seal well, leaving thin areas of light penetrating under the doors and it seems the weather seal barely compresses at all. I'm at a loss now as far as how to get these bottoms to seal better. This is the last deficiency I can find in the garage before it's insulated and draft-free for the winter. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
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wssix99

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
5,175
Location
Chicago, IL
I would release the spring tension on your doors and see how it settles. You may also need to adjust your springs.

I have some 10 year old torsion spring doors and have recently found that they have differentially stretched over time. I now have a gap on one side because they no longer sit or open square. When the tension is off, they sit flat on the floor. ... new cables are on the way!
 

CraigStu

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
4,089
Location
Blacksburg, Va
If you have electric openers, most can be adjusted for stop position as well as how much force they will exert, for instance, against the floor when closed. Usually there are screws or knobs on the side of the opener motor. I was going to give you a link but it would be better to find your opener manufacturer and model # and search for the specifics.
 
OP
M
Joined
Oct 29, 2024
Messages
2
I would release the spring tension on your doors and see how it settles. You may also need to adjust your springs.

I have some 10 year old torsion spring doors and have recently found that they have differentially stretched over time. I now have a gap on one side because they no longer sit or open square. When the tension is off, they sit flat on the floor. ... new cables are on the way!

How do I accomplish this? Not sure I want to mess with the springs if I don't have to.

If you have electric openers, most can be adjusted for stop position as well as how much force they will exert, for instance, against the floor when closed. Usually there are screws or knobs on the side of the opener motor. I was going to give you a link but it would be better to find your opener manufacturer and model # and search for the specifics.

My openers are really old Overhead Door Pythons. The stop position is a wired switch that slides along the top of the rail. I'll try moving those back a bit to shift the stop point. The close force is a knob on the front of the opener.

I agree with checking door adjustments.

Along with having mine close pretty hard I also filled the entire length of the bottom seal with concrete backer rod...... https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sika-3-...sion-Joint-Polyethylene-Foam-108130/202523820

Made in many different sizes, you'll just have to figure out what size will fit in your seal.
The weather seal I got has a rubber version of the backer rod pre-installed but the door doesn't even compress the outer U-shaped rubber seal enough to touch the inner rod.
 

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charbar

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2021
Messages
2,016
Location
Midwest
The backer rod through the seal is still a major improvement over the hollow round piece in your seal.

But from your pictures it is evident you need to adjust the down travel on your door for sure. Get that situated before doing anything else.
 

Hank11

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Joined
Aug 19, 2019
Messages
1,173
Location
Tennessee
There are rubber sills that glue down to the concrete. To install, close the door and slide the sill into place, mark the position and glue down. You’d want the sill to push snug against the door bottom seal. These sills also will keep water out, such as wind blown rain.
 
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