Septic install piping help

[wcp0611]

I built my shop with no intentions of ever having a bathroom or washroom in it. Big mistake. I can't stand having to piss out the back door or trek the 200' to the house just to use the bathroom. I've got my tank ordered. 200 gallon ball type tank. Now I just have to pipe the drain from the shop to the tank. The pic shows what I'm working with. I'm not the sharpest crayon by any means. I cannot think of how to put a pipe through the gravel base without it collapsing before I get it where its going. Any idea how to achieve this?

 

[rnscustom]

Not sure how far your going but I wouldn't worry about it . Make the hole thru the flood big enough so you can pour concrete back in to fill it after the pipe is in . Looks like your close to the wall

 

[BADSIX]

why not go out the wall then down, i';m thinking a urinal .
Jay D.

 

[flat tire]

schedule 40 pipe as per your drawing and as stated above concrete the void

 

[wcp0611]

Okay. I'll try that. I'm just afraid if any gravel falls out or is removed installing the pipe, it'll weaken and crack the floor around the hole eventually. Maybe I'm just too cautious on this. I'd rather measure eight times before I cut.

 

[wcp0611]

Would 2" pvc suffice? I have tons of that left over from another home project and I probably wouldn't have to buy any piping except for the leach field piping.

 

[steveo1o9]

2" is too small if you are doing a toilet, I believe the minimum is 3" in most places, commonly 4" is used.

 

[IBenDcars]

From looking at your drawing it looks like a challenge. Could you chip a hole in the floor then dig a big hole outside the garage? Then you could start hook your shop vac onto one end of the drain pipe. Then start feeding the pipe from the hole under the slab. That way you aren't "tunneling" under the slab and removing more ground than needed for the pipe. It would depend a lot on your gravel/rock/dirt size and compaction levels if the shop vac would pull the materials, plug up constantly, or bore a nice pipe size hole. I have not tried this specific project but I think I would give it a go instead of digging a hole then trying to backfill it. If you had good compaction with small rocks you would end up a tight fitting pipe. Then once inside you could put the elbow on and set your toilet.

 

[wcp0611]

2" is too small if you are doing a toilet, I believe the minimum is 3" in most places, commonly 4" is used.

Oh, okay. I'll use 4" then. Never ran a poop pipe before.

 

[6768rogues]

I made my bathroom a step up from the concrete building floor. That allowed the pipe to exit the building above grade and then go into the ground.

 

[wcp0611]

I would do that, but I'm doing all of this under the code's radar and I don't want a pipe sticking out of the shop like that.

 

[sberry]

Use 3 inch. 4 is too big for 1 device. You can put 8 stools on 3. 4 is for drainfields.

 

[JDMopar]

Will the 3" pipe not need a vent also? Could he use a Stueter (sp?) vent if a vent is needed?

 

[sberry]

He could add a vent somewhere just outside but that's so short and the flow so low it wont need it. In fact . the flow is so low 3 inch will work a lot better than 4

 

[6768rogues]

Where my pipe exits the building, it is just above grade. I painted it dark green to match the building and no one has noticed.

 

[sberry]

I have done this job before. Cut hole in floor, undermine from outside. Backfill by washing sand back down the hole.

 

[mr48chev]

I'd do just what SBerry suggested. I don't think you need a huge trench to put the pipe in to get to the tank though.

If you haven't looked into it there is all kinds of info on the net showing how to set the system up properly.

In most states and counties you can download the county requirements off the net to study and personally I would set it up to specs even if I was flying under the radar. It's better to have it designed right and done right and never have it inspected than to do it up wrong and then have them come a long and "discover it" and make you redo it. PVC pipe is cheap, gravel is cheap and it doesn't take that much more work to do it right.

 

[johnnyradiant]

I'd do just what SBerry suggested. I don't think you need a huge trench to put the pipe in to get to the tank though.

If you haven't looked into it there is all kinds of info on the net showing how to set the system up properly.

In most states and counties you can download the county requirements off the net to study and personally I would set it up to specs even if I was flying under the radar. It's better to have it designed right and done right and never have it inspected than to do it up wrong and then have them come a long and "discover it" and make you redo it. PVC pipe is cheap, gravel is cheap and it doesn't take that much more work to do it right.

Not only the make you redo it part, but if it is evident it wasn't done right and it was under the radar it will be scrutinized far more so if and when they issue the now twice the price permit.

Around here there is a lot of caterwallin going on with municipalities throwin the book at under the radar jobs. The next jurisdiction over from me is looking at a $2.5 million home that is in dispute about what was done versus what was said would be done, and a dispute along the way resulting in the original permit being cancelled. It didn't stop the owner/builder from finishing the project but now the muni. is talking about going all the way to tearing the whole place down, to set an example for all the by-passed inspections and deviation from the original application.