sheet metal bead rolling question

[tvfd911]

Ok, so I'm very new to working sheet metal, so bear with me. I'm considering fabricating new fenders for a tractor I'm restoring. The fender pieces in question are a simple semi circular shape of about a 2' radius with a half inch edge rolled into the each edge (inside edge used for welding another component of the fender on and the outside edge for safety and rigidity). About 2 inches from the outer edge, there is also a 1/2 bead rolled in. The bead doesn't extend to the ends, it starts and ends about 2 inches from either end.

Here is a thread with photos of the model of my tractor: http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39920

I don't have a bead roller or slip roller. I do have someone that can slip roll the metal into a semi-circular shape for me, but doesn't have any bead rolling tooling.

I've been watching for bead roller on CL and the bay with no luck. I've seen stories of people beefing up the Harbor Freight bead roller and making it a serviceable tool.

My questions are:
1. Would the HF bead roller accomplish this heavy of forming in 18 ga or maybe a little thinner sheet metal?
2. When rolling the 1/2" lip on sheet metal slip rolled to the radius of the fender, will I need to worry about the lip getting ripples in it from being worked into the radius?

There is a place that offers repro fenders, but they aren't cheap. This seems like a way to justify another tool purchase and learn another process, but I wanted to check with the experts that what I want to do isn't way beyond what I'm willing to invest into it. thanks ahead!

 

[Jim Stabe]

That fender looks like a pretty simple job. The HF bead roller is a good deal if only for the dies. You can find it on sale and then use a 20% coupon. The fender pictured appears to have a double step rolled into the edge but you could do any number of edge treatments. You would need to stiffen the frame to do 18 ga but there are a number of threads on Metalmeet and All Metalshaping covering the topic - do a search. If you are going to be doing a lot of work with the bead roller you might want to consider powering it - there are also a number of threads covering this. Powering will give you both hands to manipulate the metal without having to turn the crank. I used a HF winch motor to power mine.

 

[steel 35]

I too had the need for one, I went with a woodward from Summit on epay, it was cheaper to my door. Probably the same thing! I could twist it with two fingers before tweaking it a bit.
Expert far from it!

#1 Probably not without support.

#2 Should be fine if you roll the shape first.

 

[fp1967]

Here is a Woodward from Summit. I beefed up the frame, then made a handwheel to replace the crank. I also made a fence or guide for it. The last pic is of a 1/2" bead in 18 gauge steel, it seems to do this just fine.

 

[Sureshot]

What model of tractor?

 

[tvfd911]

thanks for all the help guys. I figured I'd need to beef it up if there was going to be any chance of it working. My biggest concern at this point is waves in the lip, but it'll probably be fine. I'll test it on some scrap before rolling it.

Sureshot- the tractor is a 10-20 McCormick Deering. There are repro fenders available, but pricey.

 

[Sureshot]

I have a brand new set for an IH 684. Gut before me put a cab on from new(1985) and I got the fenders with the tractor. Really hate to scrap them or use them in a project. Seems like such a waste but seems no interest in them.

 

[tvfd911]

Sureshot, I know what you mean about being a waste to do so. Those are some stout fenders. We used to have an IH 784 on the farm at one point.

I'd either keep them and list them on some online classifieds where tractor people hang out or ebay. Otherwise, the first cut into them with the sawzall for repurposing the metal is the only one that will hurt.