Sheetrock Question

[01ssreda4]

I'm working in a new addition. Sheetrock is on the ceilings only. It's in-place it just needs to be puttied and sanded. I've read some info on the tape and mesh, and sanding procedures. I have no corners, just one flat ceiling covered with 1/2" light-rock. Anyone have any pointers?

Here's a few questions:
1. Does anyone have a preference for tape or mesh?
2. I read procedures on edge tapered joints but some of mine are middle cuts and there is no taper. Should I sand a taper in on purpose so I can effectively blend better?
3. How quickly can I apply, then sand, then apply again. I've seen the figure of 24 hours in-between but that seems a little excessive to me.

Thanks

 

[John in OH]

I'm working in a new addition. Sheetrock is on the ceilings only. It's in-place it just needs to be puttied and sanded. I've read some info on the tape and mesh, and sanding procedures. I have no corners, just one flat ceiling covered with 1/2" light-rock. Anyone have any pointers?

Here's a few questions:
1. Does anyone have a preference for tape or mesh?
2. I read procedures on edge tapered joints but some of mine are middle cuts and there is no taper. Should I sand a taper in on purpose so I can effectively blend better?
3. How quickly can I apply, then sand, then apply again. I've seen the figure of 24 hours in-between but that seems a little excessive to me.

Thanks

I'm no drywall expert, but I've dabbled around with it in the past and I'm currently having my new shop drywalled by a contractor. My comments and observations FWIW:
1) When I dabbled I used mesh as I found it much easier to install; however, I've never see the pros use mesh. They seem to always use the paper tape and they can fly when installing it! It looks easy when they do it .... NOT when I tried it!
2) Don't sand the cut edges. Not necessary for making the joint and it will make a hell of a mess in dust.
3) 24 hrs between mud and sanding is probably not too unreasonable; however, dry time depends on thickness of mud and ambient temperature. Obviously, thick mud and cold room = longer dry time. Don't rush it ... trying to sand damp mud is a disaster.

Often you'll see that ceilings are taped and then rolled for a stipple-type finish rather than a smooth finish. May be an easier approach for an amateur, but I've never liked the rough appearance.

 

[57rsquared]

I too am not a professional, but I have Sheetrocked 2 houses and a 1800 sqft shop so I've learned a few things here and there.

Tape or Mesh? Tape, I tried the mesh, but get better results with paper

No don't try to sand then tape, you'll just tear up the paper. for the **** joints feather the seam out wider say 1 foot on either side of seam.

If you get good you can use fast setting compound and do steps an hour apart or so, the compound chemically sets and doesn't have to "dry" to be cured. It is sometimes called hot mud, and is available in 30, 60 and 90 minute working times. Tried these too - I'm not that good yet - they do allow faster turn around, they will not redissolve when wet, but they sand a bit harder. I only use them in high moisture areas like around tubs as again once dry they don't re-dissolve when wet.

Use a 6" drywall/putty knife and Taping compound, lightweight or regular, to tape all joints and first cover over screw/nail heads as the taping compound dries it shrinks a little and really ***** tape down tight. Then once dry use 6" knife to scrape down all the joints again to remove ridges and nibs of compound or high spots or a light sanding, or just use a wet grout sponge to re-wet the high spots and spread them out.

Next use a 12" knife to run Topping compound, lightweight or regular, over all your joints and screw or nail heads, note that when you buy compounds they are not necessarily ready to use, usually I add some water to thin it a bit so it spreads nice and even like soft butter on toast or whatever analogy you want... Once this dries knock down any ridges or high spots again then do Topping compound with the 12" knife on both sides of seams, so your joint is blended over about 22-24" of space.

Also note that if you look down the working edge of a drywall knife it has a bow to it, use it with the concave side down against the joint that way it helps to feather edges better. For a garage most people just do the taping step, I did the taping and one pass with the 12" knife and topping compound then called it good.

Just a simple oscillating fan will help speed up your drying times, in cold damp weather though it doesn't help much. Good Luck.

Ron

 

[01ssreda4]

Tips on sandpaper grit?

 

[manrmark]

It's been a few years since I've done drywall, and I'm no expert, I'll knock off the humps and bumps with a 4 or 6" knife and then use a damp sponge to sand with.

 

[admactanium]

Better than knocking down humps and bumps is to just skim off most of the mud and leave it smoother. The first coat when you're embedding the tape doesn't need to be incredibly thick. Just enough to cover the tape. Then feather out the edges of the mud line by putting more pressure on the outside of the knife on either side of the line. Then the previously posted steps of increasingly wider knives to widen the mud line with topping or general purpose compound should work.

It's much easier to put it on thin than it is to scrape or sand it off. Learn to put it on sparingly and you'll save yourself a ton of time on the sanding side. I'm "okay" at it but I hired a guy to install a pocket door for me and he could mud a wall and leave it smooth enough for paint without using a lick of sand paper.

 

[rasit]

Tips on sandpaper grit?

80 is rough but will knock high ridges down in a hurry, 100 with light pressure for finish. Be careful when sanding that you don't burn the paper along side the joint or sand through all the spackle exposing the tape.

 

[TommyK]

I'm working in a new addition. Sheetrock is on the ceilings only. It's in-place it just needs to be puttied and sanded. I've read some info on the tape and mesh, and sanding procedures. I have no corners, just one flat ceiling covered with 1/2" light-rock. Anyone have any pointers?

Here's a few questions:
1. Does anyone have a preference for tape or mesh?Tape
2. I read procedures on edge tapered joints but some of mine are middle cuts and there is no taper. Should I sand a taper in on purpose so I can effectively blend better?The tapered edge is pressed in at the factory. You can't replicate it. Just make sure the joint is tight and there is nothing sticking up to catch the edge of your knife. If the joint is not tight, pre-fill it the day before with some compound. In general **** joints should be avoided at all costs especially on a ceiling. They are difficult to make disappear. You may find it takes more than 3 coats to get them half way decent and you will probably have to feather them out 2 feet on each side of the joint.
3. How quickly can I apply, then sand, then apply again. I've seen the figure of 24 hours in-between but that seems a little excessive to me. Use regular joint compound. Do Not use quick setting such as Durabond 90 especially on the first coat. You need the compound to shrink on the first coat. This ***** the tape into the joint and makes it easier to apply the second coat. Besides, if you have never done this before you will never be able to keep up with a quick setting compound on a large area like a ceiling. The first coat will probably be dry in 24 hours. the second coat may take longer depending on environmental conditions.

Thanks

Hope this helps.

 

[Higgins]

SHEETROCK Easy Sand 90 USG 91554

SHEETROCK Brand Easy Sand Lightweight Setting-Type Joint Compounds are chemically-setting powder compounds that permit same-day joint finishing and next-day decoration of drywall interiors and protected exterior soffits. They resist humidity, applying easy.


The lightweight, easy-to-handle compounds can be used for a variety of applications: filling, smoothing and finishing interior concrete ceilings and above-grade concrete; taping and finishing FIBEROCK(R) Aqua-Tough(TM) Interior Panels under tile.

Supper Sand comes in 5, 20, 45, and 90! Is a great product, EASY To Sand. Small projects can be completed in a day using the SS product! You can use this product to bed the tape, along with the additional 2 finish coats. If doing large projects, would suggest the 45 or 90 min SS.

Have used this product for years and has allowed me to complete projects within a day. It does take some time to get use to the cure time, but a great product to use here time is of the essence......

 

[John in OH]

Tips on sandpaper grit?

Don't use sandpaper, use drywall sanding screens instead. Paper "loads up" with dust and quickly looses its cut; whereas, sanding screen doesn't have that problem. Sanding screens and the handle to hold them are available at HD, Menards or Lowes and looks like a section of window screen about 3" x 10" that has been impregnated with grit. Kind of expensive, but they work really well.

 

[kerfball]

I'm with John. When you get done, paint it. I've seen alot of garages on here sheetrocked, mudded, and no paint. Don't get it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I though 5/8" was typical for ceilings ? A bit more fire resistant, but also less likely to break when holding it up before nailing/screwing.

The new lightweight sheetrock has another advantage. Longer lengths (10'-16') are easier to handle (I still recommend 2 people). My daughter's FIL and I just redid her kitchen. No exposed vertical seams using 4'x10' sheetrock. We still taped and mudded the horizontal seams which were behind cabinets.


"Hot" mud is for experts !

 

[Toomanytools?]

Should be 5/8ths for the lid, what is the joist spacing? Use paper, sanding screen 100 for first sand ,220 for final. Most people put on too much mud thinking they will just sand it off WRONG. Apply the mud, bed the tape and lightly scrape off excess. Let it dry overnight or longer depends on humidity and temperature in the building , air circulation helps.

 

[info2x]

First thing I learned is less is way more.

 

[wssix99]

Anyone have any pointers?

My #1 pointer is to not believe everything you read on the internet. . There's good info above, but you'll read some wild stuff in other places.

Drywall actually comes with instructions! You can download them from the manufacturer's website and follow those to prevent major issues and cracking. Likewise, you can also confirm (by reading the instructions) if the drywall was hung and staggered correctly.

 

[BigUgly9]

Definately not an expert here. Here is what I am doing on mine, GP Densarmor mold resistant in bathrooms and outside walls. I was told it contains no paper, thus the fiberglass tape why would you want paper tape if the rest is non molding. It is costs near 1 and 1/2 times as much and also is much heavier. This non molding type might be required in the future. I bought one of the sanding devices with an extending handle that is hollow, comes with a hose to hook to the shop vac. It uses the sanding screens, great for someone that will be living in the area where rocking and has the open floor plan.