Stacking Socket Extensions, Best Practices? Limits on how many?

[oldschoolcraft]

I lack much socket and ratchet experience. I have a lot of questions, would appreciate answers to any of them so I can figure out how to best use these things. Dont feel obligated to answer them all, I know it's a lot

1) Is there a limit to how many you can stack? Do you lose torque or add risk of failure for each additional extension? If not, then does one 12" extension perform the same as 4 stacked 3" extensions?

2) Why do they make wobble extensions in different lengths? I would think get one smallest wobble extension that exists, and then if you need it longer, put regular extensions behind it.

3) Can you put two or more wobble extensions into each other and get extra wobble, like a limited universal joint?

4) For those of you that need locking extensions, I think it's for places you can't risk the socket falling off and getting stuck. Which implies it's somewhere deep. Could you get away with owning just a single locking extension, maybe 12", and then add on regular non-locking extensions into it? Maybe everything falls apart but you have the 12" locking extension on the socket so it won't get stuck as bad?

5) As a home gamer can I just wrap tape around the socket and extension for the very very rare times I might need locking? Or at least get away with the previous idea of one locking extension and then taping additional non-locking extensions to it. If I only need to do this once every decade, cleaning off adhesive residue isn't that bad.

6) Do I need both impact and chrome extensions? I understand the need for impact sockets, softer metal, less brittle so less likely to shatter. But I dont understand why impact extensions exist. And the downsides for impact sockets, being bigger than chrome and offering less clearance, doesnt seem to exist for extensions so if you do need impact ones, then going all impact might make sense and use them on ratchets too? More likely to rust so I'd rather go all chrome unless that's an issue.

7) How do you decide what "enough" extensions are for your toolset?

8) Any advances tips or tricks when using extensions that you can share that I wouldn't even think to ask? Or any stuff beginners get wrong?

Thank you!!!

 

[Jswain]

Yes

Seriously though, your most used extensions are going to be the ones that commonly come in a set.

If you used primarily 3/8" drive, then start there. It's nice to have regular, wobble, and locking for sure. Various lengths, and having the ability to stack them can make the difference from an impossible job to 5 minutes, top bolts on transmission housings etc., spark plugs from the wheel wells vs from the top.

Stacking is fine by hand, you'll lose a lot of torque when using an impact and stacking, but you do what you have to.

Locking extensions when dropping a socket would be a bad scenario:
I was changing spark plugs on a 96 4runner, when I was young and had basically just a socket set, basic tools. I didn't have the right spark plug socket but I had a deep well and a long extension. As I ran the socket straight down thru the hole(4cyl) the socket came off and of course swallowed the spark plug with the electrode sticking thru it. Many f*ckin hours later I got the socket out of there lol. Magnet I had wasn't powerful enough, I lived out of town by myself, and it was my only vehicle. I purchased locking extensions probably the next day.

 

[Wamsutta]

I never stack extensions unless I have to.

 

[General Geoff]

Yes you can stack extensions, but there is a practical limit to how many you can stack before the whole contraption gets too noodly to get to where you need it.

Use the least number of extensions that will get your socket onto the fastener you need to turn. Longer extensions can reduce the number you need. The fewer extensions you use, the more control you will have over the assembled drivetrain in order to get it onto the (ostensibly difficult-to-access) fastener.

As it pertains to impacts, the more extensions you stack, the less effective torque will be transmitted to the fastener. Even with a modern ultra high torque electric or pneumatic impact, if you use more than 2 or 3 extensions/u-joints in a train, you'll be losing most of your impact torque through drivetrain lash. The need for impact extensions is the same as that for hand tools: getting the socket where it needs to go when there are obstructions in the way.

 

[strength_and_power]

I lack much socket and ratchet experience. I have a lot of questions, would appreciate answers to any of them so I can figure out how to best use these things. Dont feel obligated to answer them all, I know it's a lot

1) Is there a limit to how many you can stack? Do you lose torque or add risk of failure for each additional extension? If not, then does one 12" extension perform the same as 4 stacked 3" extensions?

Use as many as you need to accomplish the task. If you only have 4-3” extensions and need a 12”, use the four then buy a 12” to have on hand. It may gather dust in the toolbox but at least you have it. And now you have up to a 24” extension. You probably do lose torque but the bolt you are tightening, it’s torque value probably is t super critical.

2) Why do they make wobble extensions in different lengths? I would think get one smallest wobble extension that exists, and then if you need it longer, put regular extensions behind it.

Use whatever configuration you have to accomplish the task.

3) Can you put two or more wobble extensions into each other and get extra wobble, like a limited universal joint?

Sure.

4) For those of you that need locking extensions, I think it's for places you can't risk the socket falling off and getting stuck. Which implies it's somewhere deep. Could you get away with owning just a single locking extension, maybe 12", and then add on regular non-locking extensions into it? Maybe everything falls apart but you have the 12" locking extension on the socket so it won't get stuck as bad?

Use what you have to get the job done. If it’s a once in 20 year type of repair, I wouldn’t buy a special tool for it. If it is a regular thing, buy the proper tools to be more efficient

5) As a home gamer can I just wrap tape around the socket and extension for the very very rare times I might need locking? Or at least get away with the previous idea of one locking extension and then taping additional non-locking extensions to it. If I only need to do this once every decade, cleaning off adhesive residue isn't that bad.

No foul in taping the joint if it gets the job done. You can even tape the bolt to the socket if need be

6) Do I need both impact and chrome extensions? I understand the need for impact sockets, softer metal, less brittle so less likely to shatter. But I dont understand why impact extensions exist. And the downsides for impact sockets, being bigger than chrome and offering less clearance, doesnt seem to exist for extensions so if you do need impact ones, then going all impact might make sense and use them on ratchets too? More likely to rust so I'd rather go all chrome unless that's an issue.

Buy both and use for their intended purpose. If you have to use a chrome for impact work, use the cheapest socket and accept that it may have become disposable.

7) How do you decide what "enough" extensions are for your toolset?

You don’t decide, your wallet does

8) Any advances tips or tricks when using extensions that you can share that I wouldn't even think to ask? Or any stuff beginners get wrong?

Thank you!!!

 

[Fedwrench]

I lack much socket and ratchet experience. I have a lot of questions, would appreciate answers to any of them so I can figure out how to best use these things. Dont feel obligated to answer them all, I know it's a lot

1) Is there a limit to how many you can stack? Yes, Experience, stability, and working angle will dictate how many are too many. Do you lose torque or add risk of failure for each additional extension? Yes. watch the Torque Test Channel's video on extension and torque loss. If not, then does one 12" extension perform the same as 4 stacked 3" extensions? A single 12 inch extension would be much more stable and straight than 4 three inch extensions stuck together.

2) Why do they make wobble extensions in different lengths? An assortment of various lengths gives the user options without losing stability. I would think get one smallest wobble extension that exists, and then if you need it longer, put regular extensions behind it. have you tried this? Have you stacked extensions and then tried to use the monster you created?

3) Can you put two or more wobble extensions into each other and get extra wobble, like a limited universal joint? Not really but, you'd get two angles. Double universal joints are available, see Ko-Ken.

4) For those of you that need locking extensions, I think it's for places you can't risk the socket falling off and getting stuck. Which implies it's somewhere deep. Could you get away with owning just a single locking extension, maybe 12", and then add on regular non-locking extensions into it? yes but, it's still a question of stability and not losing torque. I use locking extensions often with impact wrenches. I don't want my impact swivel socket flying off to parts unknown nor, do I want to waste time looking for it. Maybe everything falls apart but you have the 12" locking extension on the socket so it won't get stuck as bad? Probably more that an extension and socket together might be easier to find.

5) As a home gamer can I just wrap tape around the socket and extension for the very rare times I might need locking? Or at least get away with the previous idea of one locking extension and then taping additional non-locking extensions to it. If I only need to do this once every decade, cleaning off adhesive residue isn't that bad. It all depends on what you're doing and how you're doing it.

6) Do I need both impact and chrome extensions? Maybe I understand the need for impact sockets, softer metal, less brittle so less likely to shatter. But I dont understand why impact extensions exist. Impact extensions exist for use with Pneumatic/cordless impact wrenches. Chrome extensions are hard on Impacts and Impacts are hard on chrome tools but, sometimes you to use what you have available. And the downsides for impact sockets, being bigger than chrome and offering less clearance, doesnt seem to exist for extensions so if you do need impact ones, then going all impact might make sense and use them on ratchets too? More likely to rust so I'd rather go all chrome unless that's an issue.

7) How do you decide what "enough" extensions are for your toolset? When you can reach everything, you need to reach

8) Any advances tips or tricks when using extensions that you can share that I wouldn't even think to ask? Or any stuff beginners get wrong? Don't over think it.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Chrome extensions are hard on Impacts and Impacts are hard on chrome tools but, sometimes you to use what you have available.

Can you please explain this further. Is it the interface of the two things that is "hard" on it?

I'm thinking, what if you put Impact Wrench -> Chrome Extension -> Impact Socket

Is it the interface of where the chrome extension seats inside the impact socket that causes issues? Is the extension doing little micro-hammering movements against the inside of the socket and now you are wearing down the inside of the impact socket?

I wasn't aware Torque Test Channel did a test on extensions, but I know what I'm going to be doing for the next 20 minutes!

 

[chevy.stroker]

Impacts work by basically a rotational hammering motion. With Pneumatic the hammering motion is generally faster and more noticeable than electric. This is why torque sticks work on Pneumatic but not electric.

When you pay top dollar for chrome extensions you don't want to wallow the female end out where it falls off your ratchet every time you use it. Thus you purchase impact extensions.

I consider impact extensions disposable and purchase inexpensive ones. But that is just me, and others have differing opinions.

 

[mreisner]

I have been working on mechanical things for over 40 years, and I did not know this existed until a few months ago. Turn any extension into a locking extension. They are also made in quarter and half sizes.

 

[rust in the eye]

I find stacking wobble extensions a good way around obstructions. For example when removing the bolts attaching a transmission and engine. Working from behind the transmission the wobbles allow a square fit of the socket to the bolt head yet enough flex in the arrangement to follow the taper of the transmission. The drawback to this "long distance dedication" is that a considerable amout of torque goes into winding up all the metal in those extensions so when a very tight bolt finally breaks free its often a bit dramatic. Once loose I can work in a comfortable position aft of the trans rather than having my mitts crammed up in the trans tunnel.
Aside that I seldom stack extensions. Mine range from 1" long to 3 feet.

 

[lardy1]

You can get pretty nice Taiwan extensions relatively cheap. After changing out the reverse drive motor on my wife's Harley trike with multiple 3/8" extensions stuck together I bought a supply of extra long extensions to avoid fishing that wobbly mess through the narrow opening to get to the fasteners. It worked but it was a pretty cheesy setup. The ones I bought I still have to use two but beats the hell out of four or five connections.

I don't see extensions as a big monetary investment.

 

[Dave455]

1) Stacking. The manufacturers say you shouldn't do it at all. But of course they are trying to sell extensions. In practice, we have all done it, but in certain industries (aerospace) it would be frowned upon.

If it's just a couple of extensions it works o.k. but use too many and it's not just torque that's affected. The whole assembly becomes too floppy, and can even fall apart under it's own weight.

2) Wobble extensions. If you're not going to stack them, then ergo, different lengths are needed.

3) Of course. Use what you need. But why not just use a universal joint?

I personally don't like wobble extensions. There's less contact area and I think your valuable sockets are more easily damaged. I just use a universal joint and I'm done. I favour the lower of these.

4) Locking extensions. Again, yes, do what you have to, but different lengths are the better way to go.

I can survive without wobble extensions, but locking ones are useful.

5) Taping. I ususlly need a locking extension because the socket is a tight fit. In such circumstances, the tape may not hold either.

6) Generally, use impact on impact and hand tools with hand tools. I'd consider that the "price of entry" to another system. If you are a home gamer you probably don't "need" impacts. They give you speed, rather than capability.

7) You have enough tools when you can do what you need or wish to do, relatively easily.

In 3/8" drive I regularly use extensions in 1 1/2, 3, 6 and 12 inch. I own others, but use these the most. In 1/2" drive I regularly use up to 15".

In 1/4" drive, I didn't historically own extensions above about six inch, but now I do. That's just a factor of access on some modern vehicles.

 

[Hannahranga]

Personally I like wobble ones over UJ's unless I'm doing something silly, they're much easier to get onto fasteners and don't go sideways as much. You do absolutely need UJ's sometimes.

I've got some Kincrome extensions that are both wobble/normal and it's handy for a field kit but suspect would be annoying in a shop.

I tend to use deep sockets over shorter extensions but YMMV.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Watched the Torque Test Channel videos on extensions and it seemed like there was no difference in final torque for a 12" extension versus a mix of multiple extensions equally 12 inches total.

There was slightly less torque at the start but after 10 seconds it hit nearly the same torque.

Though that's just torque, I'm guessing the sloppiness of having multiple small extensions is also an issue.

 

[swsman]

I approach this as a per need type of scenario.
For all three drive sizes I have standard and wobble extensions in various lengths.

Recently added 3/8 drive 24" Tekton extension for a future transmission fluid change on my dads Fiat 500.

I try to stack the least amount of extensions as to avoid things going sideways/rounding out the nut etc. Sometimes there is no other choice.

No impact extensions, I prefer to get at it with deep sockets if possible using cordless impacts (impact sockets of course, have shallow and deep in 3/8" and 1/2").

Take a few minutes, plot the best course of action, and make changes as needed until job is done...

 

[larry_g]

If your torquing with a hand devise and not an impact you will not lose torque at the fastener. Using an impact wrench then all bets are off.

 

[Schurkey]

1) Is there a limit to how many you can stack? Do you lose torque or add risk of failure for each additional extension? If not, then does one 12" extension perform the same as 4 stacked 3" extensions?

The longer the total length, the less torque transmitted by intermittent-torque tools--impact wrenches, even powered ratchets which power and turn, then ratchet back, then power and turn.

When used by hand, the torque is the same but the ratchet/breaker bar swing is greater.

In both cases it's because the extension acts as a torsion bar. When torque is applied intermittently, the bar springs back in between impacts. With hand use, the "torsion bar" winds up, increasing the amount of tool swing.

Add in multiple joints in the "torsion bar" and you've added slop to the mechanism in addition to the springy-ness of the extension(s). Take that multi-jointed unstable mess and power it with a high-speed drive tool, and the thing wiggles all over.

FIRSTLY, you're going to use the tools you have access to, to do the job you need to accomplish.

SECONDLY, the "best practice" is to use the fewest number of extensions and the shortest overall length to achieve the most-stable assembly you can and still get the job done.

THIRDLY, you're going to use the largest drive-size practical. 3/8 instead of 1/4, 1/2 instead of 3/8, 3/4 instead of 1/2, etc. USUALLY, larger drive size extensions have larger-diameter shanks, and larger-diameter shanks make stiffer torsion bars, so they transmit torque better.

CHOOSE YOUR EXTENSIONS CAREFULLY, 'cause many tool companies use thin shanks on the extensions.

2) Why do they make wobble extensions in different lengths? I would think get one smallest wobble extension that exists, and then if you need it longer, put regular extensions behind it.

That is exactly my philosophy, because I don't generally like wobble extensions. Used hard, the wobble end wears out, and they're similarly hard on sockets due to the reduced contact area leading to localized stress on both the extension and the socket. I bought a set of wobble extensions, but I hardly ever use 'em. They're thirty years old, and most of them look almost new...'cause they stay in the tool box.

3) Can you put two or more wobble extensions into each other and get extra wobble, like a limited universal joint?

Just like stacking extensions one on another, but worse in terms of being a wobbly, unstable mess especially when used with power drivers--powered ratchets, impact tools, etc.

4) For those of you that need locking extensions, I think it's for places you can't risk the socket falling off and getting stuck. Which implies it's somewhere deep. Could you get away with owning just a single locking extension, maybe 12", and then add on regular non-locking extensions into it? Maybe everything falls apart but you have the 12" locking extension on the socket so it won't get stuck as bad?

I can't help with that. I've never owned a locking extension.

5) As a home gamer can I just wrap tape around the socket and extension for the very very rare times I might need locking? Or at least get away with the previous idea of one locking extension and then taping additional non-locking extensions to it. If I only need to do this once every decade, cleaning off adhesive residue isn't that bad.

I wrapped all my non-impact universal joints ("uniwiggles") with tape. I guess the hot tip now is to use suitably-large-diameter heat-shrink tubing.

I've never tape-wrapped sockets onto extensions, or tape-wrapped extensions together. If the friction-ball attaching method of ratchets, breaker-bars, extensions, etc. doesn't hold the next tool in line...you need non-worn-out tools.

Beware chrome sockets that have a drilled hole in the female drive end, instead of four machined divots inside the female square for the friction ball to grab. If you have drilled holes, you want to line up the drilled hole with the friction ball or the ball has nothing to "grab" and the socket falls off. A drilled hole through the female drive end is normal for impact tools; in some cases the male end of the impact tool uses a short spring-loaded pin instead of a friction ball, and larger drive sizes just cram a long pin all the way through the socket.

6) Do I need both impact and chrome extensions? I understand the need for impact sockets, softer metal, less brittle so less likely to shatter. But I dont understand why impact extensions exist. And the downsides for impact sockets, being bigger than chrome and offering less clearance, doesnt seem to exist for extensions so if you do need impact ones, then going all impact might make sense and use them on ratchets too? More likely to rust so I'd rather go all chrome unless that's an issue.

Chrome plating inherently affects the metallurgy of the tool steel. "Hydrogen embrittlement". Makes the tool somewhat brittle. Not to mention that the constant flexing of the tool from the torque impulses causes the chrome plating to crack and peel. Flaking chrome will lacerate your hands as the tools spin loosening or tightening the fastener.

If you have impact tools, you need impact extensions and impact sockets and impact universal joints. "Hand" universal joints will EXPLODE when used with impact wrenches.

7) How do you decide what "enough" extensions are for your toolset?

What do you need to do your jobs, and how big is your budget?

8) Any advances tips or tricks when using extensions that you can share that I wouldn't even think to ask? Or any stuff beginners get wrong?

As said...watch the diameter of the extension's shaft. Thin shafts are weaker, springy torsion bars.

Chrome tools are for HAND USE ONLY. Some black-oxide tools are also for hand use only; they often have that warning stamped into the metal.

Impact tools can be used with hand drivers, they may wear faster because the steel tends to be softer. Many folks will never wear 'em out because they're not using them every day. The thicker wall thickness may or may not be important in terms of tool clearance.

When I was working professionally, I started-out with bottom-feeder tools, and some mid-quality stuff. If I broke tools, I took advantage of whatever warranty there was, (if any) and moved on. If I broke a tool, and saw my own blood as a result, I warrantied the tool, sold it or gave it away, and bought a top-quality (generally Tool-Truck) replacement.

In years past, there were multiple high-quality brands that were easy to recommend, had adequate if not great availability, and cost much less than "Tool Truck" brands. Today, there's a much more limited selection of decent tool brands with significantly better pricing than the Tool Trucks.

Consider USA-Proto instead of Mac, USA-Williams instead of Snap-On, Wright instead of Matco or Cornwall. Wilde, Mayhew, Lisle, Lang/Kastar and certain others are still making great stuff mixed-in with some imported ****. Used professional-grade tools, from eBay, Craigslist, pawn shops or whatever, are likely better than brand-new Communist ****. And STUDY the Tool-Truck Equivalent thread on this site.

 

[Sumboodie]

Use as many as you need to accomplish the task. If you only have 4-3” extensions and need a 12”, use the four then buy a 12” to have on hand. It may gather dust in the toolbox but at least you have it. And now you have up to a 24” extension. You probably do lose torque but the bolt you are tightening, it’s torque value probably is t super critical.

Use whatever configuration you have to accomplish the task.

Sure.

Use what you have to get the job done. If it’s a once in 20 year type of repair, I wouldn’t buy a special tool for it. If it is a regular thing, buy the proper tools to be more efficient

No foul in taping the joint if it gets the job done. You can even tape the bolt to the socket if need be

Buy both and use for their intended purpose. If you have to use a chrome for impact work, use the cheapest socket and accept that it may have become disposable.

You don’t decide, your wallet does

I've been using chrome sockets on impact guns for 25 years, haven't killed a socket because of that yet.

Did have a Craftsman socket that the chrome peel off, caught on my hand and cut me bad. The peeled chrome was razor sharp.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I never stack extensions unless I have to.

I'd rather not stack them but I do and use what I need to get a job done.

Tight bellhousing to block bolts, you do what you have to do.

 

[Spareparts]

Reaching up into the Turret of a large Bucket Truck to remove the Hydraulic Rotation joint with 4' of
1/2" extensionsand aCrow Foot socket to remove the lines. All this in a field in Iowa with about 6" of snow
and -15. And putting it back in was even more FUNNER.

 

[Hakeem]

I'd rather not stack them but I do and use what I need to get a job done.

PERIOD!!!!!

 

[finn]

Start by using the tools, then you will answer your own questions.

personally, I prefer wobble extensions, I stack if it’s convenient, or crawl out from under when stacking doesn’t work, and get on with life.

I have stacked extensions probably four feet long on occasion when it looked like the easiest way to get to a fastener. No harm, no foul.

 

[bobg03]

I never stack extensions unless I have to.

I have found my use of impact extensions to be of limited use, the 3" and 6" is usually enough without stacking.

As for "non" impacts I have a 3", 6" & 10" for 1/4 and 3/8' drive, for 1/2" drive I have a 1&1/2" a 3" and a 6" and it hasn't limited me yet.

I have a short wobble in impact 3/8" and wobbles in 1/4 and 3/8 chrome of 3" and 6". No wobbles in 1/2" drive chrome.

No locking extensions at all, I haven't been stumped yet as a non professional with what I've culled the herd to.

Disclaimer 15 years ago I had two of everything and more sizes, plus all the 1/2' impact stuffs. With age and health comes wisdom and the desire to downsize and face reality.

 

[strutaeng]

Use whatever works. Ideally, a single extension to reach what you need to. But I have stacked them before.

I don't believe you would lose torque unless you are into the plastic deformation zone of a fastener (in which case, you'd have a bigger problem) or probably if you are using an impact. For ratchets I doubt it matters.

And needless to say, you want the shortest practical extension. You don't want a 24" extension where a 6" extension would fit. OTOH, something like removing the top bellhousing bolts of a transmission underneath you would REALLY appreciate a 24" (or longer) extension.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I lack much socket and ratchet experience. I have a lot of questions, would appreciate answers to any of them so I can figure out how to best use these things. Dont feel obligated to answer them all, I know it's a lot

1) Is there a limit to how many you can stack? Do you lose torque or add risk of failure for each additional extension? If not, then does one 12" extension perform the same as 4 stacked 3" extensions?

2) Why do they make wobble extensions in different lengths? I would think get one smallest wobble extension that exists, and then if you need it longer, put regular extensions behind it.

3) Can you put two or more wobble extensions into each other and get extra wobble, like a limited universal joint?

4) For those of you that need locking extensions, I think it's for places you can't risk the socket falling off and getting stuck. Which implies it's somewhere deep. Could you get away with owning just a single locking extension, maybe 12", and then add on regular non-locking extensions into it? Maybe everything falls apart but you have the 12" locking extension on the socket so it won't get stuck as bad?

5) As a home gamer can I just wrap tape around the socket and extension for the very very rare times I might need locking? Or at least get away with the previous idea of one locking extension and then taping additional non-locking extensions to it. If I only need to do this once every decade, cleaning off adhesive residue isn't that bad.

6) Do I need both impact and chrome extensions? I understand the need for impact sockets, softer metal, less brittle so less likely to shatter. But I dont understand why impact extensions exist. And the downsides for impact sockets, being bigger than chrome and offering less clearance, doesnt seem to exist for extensions so if you do need impact ones, then going all impact might make sense and use them on ratchets too? More likely to rust so I'd rather go all chrome unless that's an issue.

7) How do you decide what "enough" extensions are for your toolset?

8) Any advances tips or tricks when using extensions that you can share that I wouldn't even think to ask? Or any stuff beginners get wrong?

Thank you!!!

1) Aside from the inherent loose-ness of the slop from all the interfaces, on hand tools there's no torque loss. With an impact tool, every drive interface eats additional power.

2) The female drive of an extension, basically any extension, is approx 50% larger in diameter than the rest of the shank. So having this extra size at the end of an extension may prevent access. Stacking things *****, IMO. More lash, more wobbly, just no thank you.

3) Yes. If you're very clever, you can bend around an obstruction by planning where the wobble extensions meet.

4) With locking, it's not just about the socket falling off, it's about the socket getting stuck to the fastener. Mostly a rust-belt issue. I like locking extensions for tight engine bay stuff.

5) Tape kind-of works. Better than nothing. If you don't find yourself needing the locking advantage, don't buy them.

6) Yes, impacting on a chrome extension is just like beating on a chrome socket. It's hardened differently and will wear more.

7) Personal preference. I carry maybe 25 1/4 drive extensions in my cart. Probably another 20 3/8, maybe 10 1/2 drive.

 

[NUTTSGT]

And needless to say, you want the shortest practical extension. You don't want a 24" extension where a 6" extension would fit. OTOH, something like removing the top bellhousing bolts of a transmission underneath you would REALLY appreciate a 24" (or longer) extension.

Do it a few times and you will buy 20-24" extension solely for this job.

 

[Schurkey]

something like removing the top bellhousing bolts of a transmission underneath you would REALLY appreciate a 24" (or longer) extension.

Before SK Tools went to the dogs, they had the perfect solution.

They offered an impact "adapter" that was 1/2" female, thick 1/2"-style shank and a 3/8 male end. About three feet long. The 3/8 male end was perfect for 3/8" impact swivel sockets. (There was another version of that impact adapter that was just under two feet long.) Just the ticket for bellhousing bolts even if the trans mount couldn't be dropped so the engine/transmission would droop a little to the rear.

Snap-On has a similar tool, the 1/2" female and 3/8 male, about three feet long...but the shank is sized like a 3/8" extension with a 1/2" female, instead of the SK which was more like a 1/2" extension with a 3/8 male end. The SK is enormously stiffer than the Snappy.

Now that SK has gone Communist, I don't know where you'd get a decent 3-foot adapter/extension like that.

35" 1/2"Female-3/8"Male Long Impact Adapter/Extension

35" 1/2"Female-3/8"Male Long Impact Adapter/Extension

sktools.com

 

[Hannahranga]

Speaking of stacking extensions, was behind someone at a tool shop who was buying a pair of 4ft extensions. Dunno what he was planning on using them for but better him than me.

On locking ones, I really like them cos I tend to work on boats or cars outside of garages. There's only so much enthusiasm for trying to reach under an engine into the blige water you can have.

 

[F-22]

1) Is there a limit to how many you can stack? Do you lose torque or add risk of failure for each additional extension? If not, then does one 12" extension perform the same as 4 stacked 3" extensions?

Depends on which size you're talking about... for a 10mm bolt head, 1/4" extensions will twist at that length, 3/8" may still twist a little, 1/2" will probably snap off the screw before it makes notable flex and then you can still have much larger 3/4" and 1" sockets...

When your extensions get long, I'd say get a bigger set instead. You can use a step-down to the smaller socket size on the end of the extension too.

 

[AEAdam]

Good thread. Lots of details. Big picture, we talk and talk about sockets, wrenches and ratchets and not so much about all the other important tools.

I consider extensions to be luxury tools. The basic, 3,6,&9” set is an almost unacceptable minimum. I have 3 or 4 sets of 3/8” extensions. Locking, wobbles, lock wobbles, extra longs, etc. My thought is to use extensions to get my hands and back where I’m comfortable and strong.

Stacking *****. I really want my drive train, ratchet to socket, very very stiff. If I add a wobble, I want it exactly where I put it and no where else. I have found Snap On sockets and extensions to be the tightest fitting and stiffest. But it would probably be helpful to hear from other. The thing with stiffness, both torsionally and what I would call ”out of plane”, isn’t so much about finding a fastener head, as it is about pulling hard on a ratchet handle and not getting a lot of movement. For this reason, adding slop via the addition of extra extensions, can be quite annoying.