Suspension knuckle bushing replacement tool request

[308guru]

Ok, I’m putting this in the tool discussion forum because I’m in the end asking for a tool suggestion.

I recently purchased a 2015 Explorer AWD for my kids to drive. It’s got almost 200K miles on it so I had an expectation of some work needing to be done, which I found during my test drive. It’s turning into more than I was expecting since some of the recent documented work was done with the cheapest crappiest parts you can buy and they are shot already; but that’s a somewhat different story. I mention that because it’s getting more expensive than I was planning for and I’ve got other work to move on to.

One thing I noticed during other work was that the driver’s rear knuckle has a (toe link) bushing that is shot. Grabbing 9 & 3 on the tire I can wiggle it back and forth. I’m putting new tires on it and would like to shore this up asap as I don’t want to trash a new set of tires. It would be impossible to get a good alignment anyway with the amount of movement it has in addition to it wandering around while driving.

A couple options I see:
- Ford sells the knuckle assembly with bushings installed for $506. The bushings are not available separately. At that point it feels weird to swap a hub with 200k miles considering the work taking place at that point. A new hub, while not required, is an additional $370. I can get both parts cheaper than MSRP but they are still expensive.

- Moog sells a complete knuckle/hub assembly including a new brake shield for $475 (shipped from RA). While this seems like the best choice, it again, is a cost I wasn’t planning for and don’t want to spend.

- Dorman (almost makes me throw up) sells a bushing kit for $80ish. This is obviously the most cost-effective way to solve the immediate problem. None of the other bushings seemed to be a problem at this time so I feel ok replacing just this one.

- How hard are these bushings to press in/out? In the essence of saving time, I’d love to do this on the car without removing the knuckle and bringing it to a (big) press.​

- What bushing press tools are needed. I’m assuming it’s similar to a ball joint press kit with cups/drivers/threaded rod or c-frame. Tool/kit recommendations needed. Do the parts stores have them as loaners?​

- Being a Minnesota crusty and rusty car does that present any issues getting a bushing out? I could heat the surrounding knuckle area with MAPP gas (all I have).​

Thoughts / suggestions appreciated!

 

[pbon]

I have changed bushings sometimes and had to literally break and drill and cut them out. The higher the miles and the more exposure to corrosive conditions, the more likely the job will be a headache. But at least it is just one bushing and the location looks pretty accessible. I would change the bushing. Changing the whole knuckle and hub assembly can also be a pain since other stuff has to come off.

 

[cgrutt]

Don't know Ford Explorer specifically but did replace just bushings on wife's Mercedes (lower control arm) and it wasn't that hard to do with cup and bolt style puller. Guess you do need to check if they are directional and/or split and need to be pulled from both sides. I'd replace bushings on vehicle with 200k vs the entire knuckle.

 

[djbmw]

Ok, I’m putting this in the tool discussion forum because I’m in the end asking for a tool suggestion.

I recently purchased a 2015 Explorer AWD for my kids to drive. It’s got almost 200K miles on it so I had an expectation of some work needing to be done, which I found during my test drive. It’s turning into more than I was expecting since some of the recent documented work was done with the cheapest crappiest parts you can buy and they are shot already; but that’s a somewhat different story. I mention that because it’s getting more expensive than I was planning for and I’ve got other work to move on to.

One thing I noticed during other work was that the driver’s rear knuckle has a (toe link) bushing that is shot. Grabbing 9 & 3 on the tire I can wiggle it back and forth. I’m putting new tires on it and would like to shore this up asap as I don’t want to trash a new set of tires. It would be impossible to get a good alignment anyway with the amount of movement it has in addition to it wandering around while driving.

A couple options I see:
- Ford sells the knuckle assembly with bushings installed for $506. The bushings are not available separately. At that point it feels weird to swap a hub with 200k miles considering the work taking place at that point. A new hub, while not required, is an additional $370. I can get both parts cheaper than MSRP but they are still expensive.

- Moog sells a complete knuckle/hub assembly including a new brake shield for $475 (shipped from RA). While this seems like the best choice, it again, is a cost I wasn’t planning for and don’t want to spend.

- Dorman (almost makes me throw up) sells a bushing kit for $80ish. This is obviously the most cost-effective way to solve the immediate problem. None of the other bushings seemed to be a problem at this time so I feel ok replacing just this one.

- How hard are these bushings to press in/out? In the essence of saving time, I’d love to do this on the car without removing the knuckle and bringing it to a (big) press.​

- What bushing press tools are needed. I’m assuming it’s similar to a ball joint press kit with cups/drivers/threaded rod or c-frame. Tool/kit recommendations needed. Do the parts stores have them as loaners?​

- Being a Minnesota crusty and rusty car does that present any issues getting a bushing out? I could heat the surrounding knuckle area with MAPP gas (all I have).​

Thoughts / suggestions appreciated!

Looks quite easy to press in/out with a bearing press kit (just make sure the one you buy has cups that are appropriately sized for your hub and bushing). Alternatively, it can be drilled or burnt out... its just rubber, afterall. Pushing new bushings in is far easier than getting old ones out.

 

[lund]

I do not have experience with your specific vehicle. But the pic you posted the components do not appear very corroded so it might not be too bad to get things apart to press out etc. As a rust belt car owner, I do a lot of suspension work on my two high mileage vehicles. I recommend when you take things apart to do more than one minimally needs to establish a good baseline. Pressing out bushings etc is the most economical. But some non-OEM suppliers (Moog, Mevtech etc) also sell complete control arms for a variety of vehicles and that is not too expensive to go that direction relative to OEM parts. I would also caution with a Subaru forester I get much worse life with Moog and Mechtech components. But the savings is enough where I still often do it unless they fail unusually quickly. Discussions in online forums do not help much since they source placements of the manufacturers changes so much and they get dated quickly. Most non-OEM suppliers parts look pretty good superficially, and I find that you can only tell how long they will last via use over several years. Moog from 10+ years ago is not Moog from today. I do not even trust where things are stamped in terms of country of origin. A lot of Chinese parts are just exported and repackaged. It is hard to tell from superficial appearances if high quality materials are used or not.

 

[308guru]

I'll have to call Dorman and check on ID/OD for that specific bushing. Then I can look for a press kit that has the correct sizes.

 

[Wrench97]

Threaded rod, nuts, washers, a large socket to push the bushing into, or a air chisel will remove it the socket and threaded rod can also be used to install the new one.
Moog has become crappier then Dorman now.

 

[L.Cheapo]

A decent ball joint press should work. Might require some finagling, but should work. But as pbon said above, sometimes you encounter a bushing that is fused in place and a real pain. Won't know till you try!

 

[zmotorsports]

For odds and ends bushings like that, I generally will use a ball joint style cup and just a length of allthread with a small driver to push the bushing and the cup to receive it. I've even used large sockets in a pinch, just need something to drive and something to receive with a length of allthread through them.

Worst case scenario on some that are stubborn is to use an air hammer and drive the old one out, sometimes damaging it, then polish up the bore and use a driver and receiver with allthread to press the new one back in.

 

[mreisner]

I did one on my wife's Exploder a few years ago.... right then and there I thank myself for getting the Snap-on ball joint driver kit for myself for my birthday that year!
Should be able to do it with a socket type ball joint press also. Most part stores have one you can borrow.

 

[leadfoot415]

Just do the job right once, put a Ford knuckle and hub/bearing on it.

You dont list a location in your profile, but if it is somewhere in the rust belt, and it has never been replaced... you are NOT separating the old hub/bearing from the knuckle without trashing one or both. Most of these require cutting and driving out a stud from the hub/bearing, using a sacrificial nut/bolt, and pushing the old hub out so you can re-use the backing plate + 3 bolts.

Moog stuff is generally **** nowadays. Have not tried installing one of those whole unit assys recently, no comment on it's quality.

 

[308guru]

Yes, 100% rustbelt; I’m in MN.

I agree 100% that a new Ford knuckle and hub is the way to do it. That’s $600/side though. It also feels like a “where does this stop” when you start taking the rusty crusty rotted out **** apart.

I’ll give the bushing swap a shot. I can do it “more right” later once I have some faith in the car as a whole.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Contact Moog directly. They sell a lot of bushing (and the knuckle) for that vehicle, but I don't know which one is correct !

 

[MacMcMacmac]

https://www.amazon.ca/YUAN-Universal-Sleeve-Install-Bearings/dp/B07ML8N9X5/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=17K5M7WFPUXRT&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.K0i68uQcf4FkQVFT0FfjiKcbg_X6Gr865JXwRSE3RBdcKTOwMqrDrsPFu4KyvcrbaaYj7S6_zhyH2h-Fqql6Y1hH3e1h_nAUZ0B_HRErGzvtmp1pQdN9zkMRK2bAPs36WDSGep0z9cwYX3QJ6tkiPFiEoEjdTFhMIpwLjS1PVmtBSkETaKyE9EpGE59j9vyE1ML4E3EhpsCrXiGwbYUcWB-Bky4ndh4aLMfXOnRfFefwquEtTzymaLJAqu38T4YdqxMXsSv2nKhOwO7gwlzMRc8JByq25OZ0b-jsspmChKg.Z3ptNcFp6fhyF4sclW-puJKYcgpdDVeNb97a0-NpytI&dib_tag=se&keywords=bushing+press+kit&qid=1767158411&sprefix=bushing%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-3-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

I picked this up earlier this year and pressed some upper bushings in the rear knuckles on my 200. It worked well. Dorman finally put out a kit for my car, so I'll be doing the lowers in the spring. Hard to justify $1200 worth of knuckles on my car at this age and mileage

 

[rust in the eye]

I'll bet that steel sleeve is well stuck in the aluminum knuckle.
You could burn out the rubber and cut the sleeve if pressing in situ isn't an option.
FWIW Ford had a recall on rear toe links on some car of this era, might be worth investigating.

 

[308guru]

I'll bet that steel sleeve is well stuck in the aluminum knuckle.
You could burn out the rubber and cut the sleeve if pressing in situ isn't an option.
FWIW Ford had a recall on rear toe links on some car of this era, might be worth investigating.

I found that recall. It appears mine had the recall performed already. The toe links were changed from adjustable to solid (slotted).

Thanks.

 

[leadfoot415]

I found that recall. It appears mine had the recall performed already. The toe links were changed from adjustable to solid (slotted).

Thanks.

There is an extended coverage on those knuckles for 1 year following the install of the updated toe link arms (slotted vs threaded) for noise or bushing failures.

 

[Retired dozer fixer]

Yes, 100% rustbelt; I’m in MN.

I agree 100% that a new Ford knuckle and hub is the way to do it. That’s $600/side though. It also feels like a “where does this stop” when you start taking the rusty crusty rotted out **** apart.

I’ll give the bushing swap a shot. I can do it “more right” later once I have some faith in the car as a whole.

You’re doing a lot of bitching about a suv with 200K miles on it. What do you expect?? Safety of your kids not worth a few hundred bucks?? Steering and tires shouldn’t be 2nd class

 

[pelletman]

I'd probably start with an air hammer, but never done one on that vehicle

 

[2001ZR2]

I'd probably start with an air hammer, but never done one on that vehicle

On my 2001 Blazer I found using an air hammer to be far easier than a ball joint press. Use the hammer to dimple or crush the metal outside of the bushing down. If it starts to spin then it's easy from there.

 

[308guru]

There is an extended coverage on those knuckles for 1 year following the install of the updated toe link arms (slotted vs threaded) for noise or bushing failures.

Thanks for the info. I’ll check into the install date.

 

[308guru]

You’re doing a lot of bitching about a suv with 200K miles on it. What do you expect?? Safety of your kids not worth a few hundred bucks?? Steering and tires shouldn’t be 2nd class

Doing a lot of bitching? Really? What world are you living in?

I presented what I saw were options, and asked for recommendations on tools. I just spent $1300 on tires, put Ford strut assemblies, shocks, sway bar links, throttle body, and other Ford parts. I serviced the brakes, PTU and diff. I've hardly skimped on anything and trying to make prudent use of money.

If you're swimming in $100 bills, more power to you. Nobody's life is in jeopardy as you're suggesting. Move along.

 

[Zewnten]

You’re doing a lot of bitching about a suv with 200K miles on it. What do you expect?? Safety of your kids not worth a few hundred bucks?? Steering and tires shouldn’t be 2nd class

Agreed. Older cars nickel and dime but my wife's and kid's cars are fixed right when it comes to brakes and suspension. Old guy always told me don't cheap out on anything for safety or between me and the ground and that's served me well.

 

[engineer2]

Back when I was young and poor I used a large C-clamp and the appropriate sized pipe ****** or steel tube scrap. Worked just fine.

 

[decableguy2000]

I changed the bushings on the Mustang rear knuckles using a ball joint press and a large socket. Almost needed a 3rd hand to do it.

 

[Retired dozer fixer]

Doing a lot of bitching? Really? What world are you living in?

I presented what I saw were options, and asked for recommendations on tools. I just spent $1300 on tires, put Ford strut assemblies, shocks, sway bar links, throttle body, and other Ford parts. I serviced the brakes, PTU and diff. I've hardly skimped on anything and trying to make prudent use of money.

If you're swimming in $100 bills, more power to you. Nobody's life is in jeopardy as you're suggesting. Move along.

So if you’ve already spent hundreds of dollars so far why are you cheaping out for bushings? Replace the whole damn part and move on. And no I’m not swimming in money. Like my name says…RETIRED. If you don’t have the correct tools to do the job you’ll probably be same cost as OEM parts but maybe not.