jklingel
Well-known member
I need info on T1 steel. Does 3/4" cut well w/ a torch? After holes are burned to approx diameter, can you drill it w/ HSS bits, or do you need carbide? I doubt that HSS will work, frankly. Thanks. john
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T1 steel info
- Thread starter jklingel
- Start date
I need info on T1 steel. Does 3/4" cut well w/ a torch? After holes are burned to approx diameter, can you drill it w/ HSS bits, or do you need carbide? I doubt that HSS will work, frankly. Thanks. john
Are you talking about ASTM A-514 trademarked "T-1" by Arcelor Mittal or are you talking about AISI T1 Tungsten tool steel? They're two different animals.
Regardless, any steel under 6" thick cuts fine with a hand torch.
However, you'll make life VERY difficult for yourself by trying to "pre-torch" those holes before machining in either steel. You'll not only locally harden the material right where you need to drill, but have to deal with the slag as well.
In either case, I'd use a carbide drill if I had to make more than one or two holes.
AP: Thanks. I'll have to ask which "T1" they have, but I believe the cat at the steel shop referred to it as "tungsten". I was considering having them flame cut several pieces with 15/16" holes and I'd align everything on a 15/16" rod, weld them in place, then drill to 1" for better fit. I thought I'd read that the tungsten T1 may air quench after flame cutting at room temp. My other option is to have the pieces cut from mild steel, then install bushings in the holes.
Any hardenable steel will harden around the HAZ of the torch cut because the cold metal surrounding the HAZ effectively quenches it. Even mild steel can become difficult to machine after torch cutting. As a general rule, it's best not to try to machine torch cut surfaces if at all possible.
If the end product would work with A36 plate, I'd bush with hardened inserts machined for a press fit appropriate for the application.
If the end product would work with A36 plate, I'd bush with hardened inserts machined for a press fit appropriate for the application.
I have noticed the hardening of mild steel when I go to file out the little blips in a hole I've cut imperfectly. Not real bad, but sure tougher. This is for the pivot plates and grapples on a grapple bucket I am making for my skid steer. The more I think about the problems I'll run into w/ HSS, the more I think I'll just go w/ thicker mild steel and bushings. The cylinders are already costing me $800, so by the time I pay for T1 and all the related cutting, etc, I could buy a commercially made grapple and be done w/ it. Thanks for the info; saved me a lot of grief. john