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Test Light recommendations?

txvwnut

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Jan 1, 2015
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Bedford, Texas
For the Power Probe discussion, PP's and test lights are two different animals. I have both and use both where the procedure calls. I have seen it with my techs that aren't as up on electrical circuits as I am get in way over their head with a PP instead of using a test light. The PP gives a false sense due it telling you if a circuit is a ground or a power circuit, if you have a back feed or a "load" in the circuit some were it will give you the idea that you are on a ground circuit when you are actually reading through the "load".
 
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Wrench97

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For the Power Probe discussion, PP's and test lights are two different animals. I have both and use both where the procedure calls. I have seen it with my techs that aren't as up on electrical circuits as I am get in way over their head with a PP instead of using a test light. The PP gives a false sense due it telling you if a circuit is a ground or a power circuit, if you have a back feed or a "load" in the circuit some were it will give you the idea that you are on a ground circuit when you are actually reading through the "load".
I've seen way too many newbs get in trouble with a power probe, of course some of those same guys are the ones who would probe a wire with a test light every foot down a truck frame saying he's looking for a broken wire......
 

theoldwizard1

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SE MI
For the Power Probe discussion, PP's and test lights are two different animals. I have both and use both where the procedure calls.
One of the best "features" of the later Power Probe is the +/- power leads. Connected directly to the battery, you know you have a good ground and +12V. (I gave instructions an making your own.)

Few people know, that if you have +12V close to the load you want to test, you can use a test light a "current limiter" and drive the load !
 

2ndGearRubber

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Mar 24, 2014
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Pittsburgh
One of the best "features" of the later Power Probe is the +/- power leads. Connected directly to the battery, you know you have a good ground and +12V. (I gave instructions an making your own.)

Few people know, that if you have +12V close to the load you want to test, you can use a test light a "current limiter" and drive the load !

That's how you look for shorts too, if they're a hard fault and instantly blow fuses. Put a test lamp in the fuse box to throttle back maximum current.
 

Steve_P

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Sep 15, 2010
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That's how you look for shorts too, if they're a hard fault and instantly blow fuses. Put a test lamp in the fuse box to throttle back maximum current.

Ok, so this makes total sense; ohm's law in action, but I'd never thought of this before :ROFLMAO:
 
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Steve_P

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Sep 15, 2010
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Here is a similar thread


edit:

another showing some 1A test lamps in post 27. I made some of my own and bought all the stuff new on Amazon: sockets, bulbs, silicone insulated 16Ga wire... I used different bulbs for a 2A load. I added banana jacks on some, etc.

 
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Shehzada

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Oct 14, 2008
Messages
246
I have a couple basic ones, this one is my go to. Likely it has been in my tool box for over 20yrs.
Modified it with thicker, longer wire and as of recently using vice grips instead of alligator clip.

Eric O from South Main on YT uses automotive bulb in a connector to add a load to the circuit, need to make me one of those.

That's a great idea. Need a strain relief though.
 

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ecotec

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Oct 5, 2010
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5,451
In typical GJ fashion, you probably need both.

Mine are all incandescent, so not computer safe, and at least one is older than I am, so no help here.

Mine too. I have a couple incandescent ones from the early 90’s.
 
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