To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

The Mysterious Missing MaxJax Instructions

dmeadow

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
952
Location
Houston, Texas
Day One

Started installing my MaxJax today. Got some additions and edits for the instructions. You can probably install the lift without these, especially if you like figuring things out for yourself and doing things twice. Read these in conjunction with the instructions, not in lieu of them. By the way, the inventory in the instruction booklet is not worth much as it doesn’t list everything and at least one set of bolts is misidentified.

Starting with Step 3:

The instructions don’t tell you how to install the cart wheels, nor are there any pictures of that part of the cart. Not particularly hard to figure out, but to potentially save you some head scratching time:

Find the two 127mm cart wheels (the big ones, versus the 4 smaller 75mm ones for the posts). Use six of the long skinny bolts (don’t know the size, they aren’t listed on the inventory) to bolt the angled iron with the axle on it to the cart. The angled iron will be placed under the cart handle extensions. Put on the wheels and secure them with the small circlips found in the parts bag.

The instructions say to use 4 8x20mm bolts to secure the power unit to the cart and 4 8x20mm bolts to secure the Hydraulic Flow Divider to the cart. There are actually 4 8x20mm and 4 8x25mm in the parts bag (the latter misidentified in the inventory as 8x1.25mm(?)). I suggest using the 8x25mm bolts for the power unit as they have more to go through (including the Unit Dampener Pad).

BEFORE you install the Hydraulic Flow Divider make sure you have it right side up, with the two opposing plastic plugs for the quick connects at the top.

Step 4

The instructions tell you to install the hydraulic fittings on the cylinder with the cylinder removed from the post. One of the MaxJax assembly videos shows the earlier MaxJax’s were shipped with the cylinders separated from the posts. That is no longer the case. You can ignore the stuff about inserting the cylinders into the posts and into the Cylinder Rings as they are already there. And it is basically impossible to put the hydraulic fittings on the cylinders and then put them into the posts as described in the directions.

Here is what I figured out to do:

Lay the post down with the open channel up. Pull up the lifting arm a bit to reveal the bottom of the cylinder. Turn the cylinder until you find the plastic plug. Remove the plug and turn the cylinder slightly and insert the reducer and the pipe ****** ONLY (not the 45) so they are within the channel. If you install them outside the channel you won’t be able to turn the cylinder around to install the 45 later through the hole in the bottom of the post on the closed side. Once tight, push the cylinder and arm lift to the bottom of the post, positioning the pipe ****** through the hole in the bottom of the post.

Now raise the post up and lower it again with the open channel down. Thread the 45 through the hole and onto the pipe ******. It is better to have the post horizontal as it will be easier to reach underneath and fiddle the cylinder around to turn and tighten the 45.

Once you have the 45 tightened down and the post on the ground, now is a really good time to put on the post wheels (don’t wait for the instructions to tell you to put them on, they won’t).

That was as far as I got yesterday. Today I hope to get the anchors in and finish the job. I'll post with any other issues I find.
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

regguy1

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Messages
4,053
Location
On Mount Olympus with Zeus
Keep us posted.....

I bought some flat washers to use on both sides of the power unit and flow valve, I think it looks a little neater and I don't like grinding the bolt heads into the mounting plates....
 

mad57

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2009
Messages
1,698
Well hope fully the seller of these lifts sees this list or at least the dealer who organized this bulk buy and says something that was a good chunk of cash should be well written and thought out.
 
OP
D

dmeadow

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
952
Location
Houston, Texas
This must be the slowest MaxJax install ever...

Finally got back to it after getting pulled away on several things. One was my father visiting and helping me finish out some walls in the garage with pegboard and plywood!:thumbup:

I also have spent a LOT of time with anchors in this install. I'm not going to go into it all, since I think some of my problems are unique to me and my situation. It was a real PITA, though.

A couple of things on the install instructions, though, since that is the topic of the thread:

As Regguy1 points out in another thread, the instructions say to bolt down the posts by tightening up the bolts with 3 to 3 and 3/4 turns after they contact the base plate. Search for Regguy1's thread, but bottom line is to ignore those instructions. I think they were left over from previous anchor install instructions that Dannmar has changed.

I do have some news on anchors. With the problems I had I ended up buying some more Wej-it PD58 anchors (type supplied with lift) from MSC Industrial. These anchors had a manufacturing date of 6/10. Apparently Wej-it has changed the design of the anchors slightly. They eliminated the two small flanges on either side of the collar. The newer anchor (picture attached) has a collar that looks more like the ones on their stud collars.

I don't know why they did this, but I'm speculating it is because the old style caused a lot of spalling both on top of the concrete and at the lower part of the slab as those flanges dug in, at least it did in my case. In any case, the newer anchors go in with a lot less drama. Less spalling and not as hard to hammer in. Wej-it has not changed the specs on this anchor so I hope that means that it is no weaker for the change.

Also, Wej-it changed the instructions slightly that came with these anchors. They say to hammer them in 1/2" below the surface (vs. 5/8") and give them 3 turns to set. That leaves them about a bit below the surface. Just to make my install clean, I put bolts in the anchors then put some anchor cement around the tops to level up the holes. Anchor cement sets pretty fast, so I kept turning the bolts to keep them free while it hardened.

I've now got my posts bolted down. Next step is to fill with fluid and bleed the cylinders!
 

Attachments

  • wejitpd58.jpg
    wejitpd58.jpg
    143.2 KB · Views: 69
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
D

dmeadow

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
952
Location
Houston, Texas
Did any of you have troule pounding the anchors in? I had a lot of trouble with just the first one, it was so hard to pound in I bent the sacrificial bolt with just half the anchor barely into the concrete.

The old style anchors with the flanges were really hard to hammer in. I used a 3 lb sledge hammer and it was still tough. The MaxJax instructions show a claw hammer which would be too light and not designed to hammer anything but nails, anyway!

My sacrificial bolt bent a little, too, and the top flattened out so that the right size wrench wouldn't fit (used adjustable wrench). However, it didn't bend so bad that I couldn't use it.

As I said, the newer anchors were easier to hammer in. If you have a lot of trouble you might try ordering some from MSC. I actually ordered mine through Amazon and they came from MSC.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom