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Think inside the box (the Toy Box)

MXTMOPR

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Joined
May 15, 2006
Messages
8
Location
West Palm Beach, Florida
Wanted to share my still under construction 25X50. 8' beam height w/ valuted ceiling center bay for future lift. Each end has standard trusses so I get free storage lofts. Above the scissor trusses, I've got nice flat truss webs for those pesky bumpers and sheet metal items. My electrician buddy did some creative stuff. I can backfeed the shop and house during a power outtage via the 50amp dryer plugs in the shop. Yeah, I know backfeeding is dangerous, but I have enough common sense to turn off the main feed from the pole when doing this. I can now have the generator near the shop and all the noise stays back there. Under normal operating conditions I have (2) 50 amp 220V plugs available for the welder and air compressor which both have clothes dryer plugs and cables. Its coming along nicely and like any project, you are never quite finished.Check out my $10.00 sheet metal/aluminum brake. The max throat width is 48" and works just fine for auto sheetmetal. Just could not see spending big $$$ from an outside source, so I made one.:3gears:
 

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Bradley Miller

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Mar 29, 2006
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246
Location
Blue Springs, MO
How is that metal brake doing? I've had a few needs for one, but can't justify cost . . . that looks like it might be a handy little addition to the shop. I don't need much beyond regular sheet metal. Hmm.
 
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MXTMOPR

Member
Joined
May 15, 2006
Messages
8
Location
West Palm Beach, Florida
Bradley Miller said:
How is that metal brake doing? I've had a few needs for one, but can't justify cost . . . that looks like it might be a handy little addition to the shop. I don't need much beyond regular sheet metal. Hmm.
It works great. I've made all of the pieces for the garage eaves from alum. roll stock. Nice 48" long pieces, easy to handle by myself. I also made the frenched license plate box and the rear trunk sill for my 49 coupe from 18ga. steel. The only critique of my design is the leverage of the handle is not too good. I could use a couple of 12" long rods to grab onto. More stuff to crack my knees on when on the creeper.:wtf:
 

Stuart in MN

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Sep 8, 2005
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Minneapolis
MXTMOPR said:
I can backfeed the shop and house during a power outtage via the 50amp dryer plugs in the shop. Yeah, I know backfeeding is dangerous, but I have enough common sense to turn off the main feed from the pole when doing this.

You have a nice looking shop, but when you say something like this on a public forum you know you're gonna get yelled at....

Backfeeding through a dryer outlet is dangerous, and it's illegal. When your electrician buddy did the work, you both took on a lot of liability and he probably put his electrician's license in jeopardy as well. Compared to the potential risks, it wouldn't have cost very much at all to do the job safely and correctly with a proper transfer switch.
 

bmwpower

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Not up on backfeeding, but what exactly is it?

I'm guessing it's running a generator with the power output plugged into those 50A outlets in the garage, which feeds power back into the rest of the circuits, which in this case, also means feeding power back into the house main panel as well, no?
 
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Stuart in MN

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bmwpower said:
Not up on backfeeding, but what exactly is it?

I'm guessing it's running a generator with the power output plugged into those 50A outlets in the garage, which feeds power back into the rest of the circuits, which in this case, also means feeding power back into the house main panel as well, no?

You got it. The danger is if for some reason the main breaker isn't opened before starting the generator, or if it's accidentally turned back on before the generator is closed, it backfeeds 240v right back out to the utility transformer out at the street. The transformer then gets backfed as well, and it sends 13,000 volts (or whatever the local utility distribution voltage is) out on the lines. If a lineman happened to be out there repairing storm damage it could be lethal.

There has to be a positive interlock between the generator connection and the main so there's no possible way to have them both connected at the same time, either by using a transfer switch or mechanically interlocked circuit breakers.

Another method sometimes used is called a Kirk Key interlock. Two circuit breakers are both fitted with key locks that that work with a single key. The key has to be inserted in the lock before the circuit breaker can be closed. This way, you have to open one circuit breaker before you can remove the key, stick it in the other breaker, and close it.
 

DynoDave

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Michigan
That's great MXTMOPR. I'm planning on having part scissor/part storage trusses in my 26x36. What pitch is your roof?
 

rickas

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Mar 11, 2006
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abilene tx

DynoDave

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Thanks Rick. Great photos. I went through the whole album while I was there. How deep, or long, are those storage areas?

I've been wondering how I'll do my access to the attic as well. I could use some pull down steps between trusses, but that will waste a couple of feet of attic "floor" space. And I'll only have 14 feet to begin with. I could just go in through the opening on the scissor end, but that would mean moving a car every time I wanted to set up a ladder and go up there. I'll probably end up with the pull downs, losing a little sotrage space.
 
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MXTMOPR

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Joined
May 15, 2006
Messages
8
Location
West Palm Beach, Florida
DynoDave said:
That's great MXTMOPR. I'm planning on having part scissor/part storage trusses in my 26x36. What pitch is your roof?
Exterior pitch is 6:12, interior pitch is 3:12. Ya don't need much slope in South Fla. so I matched what was on the house.
 

DynoDave

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Thanks MXTMOPR. I was going to go 4/12 to match my house, but I'm toying with the idea of going 6/12 for the extra space it creates. I think my supplier has told me that the best he can do in a 26' 4/12 is a spread web light storage truss. I really prefer the open area yours create.
 
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