Time-Sert Thread Repair Question

[Wamsutta]

The kit's drill bit and counterbore tool are square drive. How do you drive that with a standard drill chuck?

 

[Firebrick43]

You can use a drill with a good chuck. No problem. The square drive is for industry use. Many manufactures have a rework department. The machinist in these departments fix everyone else's screwups. Timeserts are one of the prefered fixes for damaged small holes. Much better than helicoils. Larger holes catserts are a the prefered method.

They have power tappers to speed things up and reduce fatigue. Many times just to retap a hole in a 10000 lbs casting it's much easier to use the power tapper than lift the casting on the jig mill. The square drive makes quickly changing the different tools quicker. If you have the touch, proper trigger control, and use proper lube a cordless impact with tap sockets works well and fast but I cation that you can screw stuff up really fast as well this way.

https://fein.com/en_us/m/drilling/tappers/gwp-10-0332010/

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=398

 

[pi_guy]

The kit's drill bit and counterbore tool are square drive. How do you drive that with a standard drill chuck?

Drill I used in tap socket since the hole was so close.
The counter bore I used a battery powered Dewalt drill

Tap and inserter I used tap socket

 

[BillK]

The kit's drill bit and counterbore tool are square drive. How do you drive that with a standard drill chuck?

You put it in the drill just like any other bit ? I have about 15 different Timesert kits and have never used the square drive except for the taps.

 

[Wamsutta]

You put it in the drill just like any other bit ? I have about 15 different Timesert kits and have never used the square drive except for the taps.

I have a Bosch hand drill with a 3/8" chuck. The Bosch was able to swallow a tap past the square portion and grip the round section. I'm hoping I can do the same with the drill bit and counterbore tool from the Time-Sert kit when it arrives.

 

[T45]

use a tap/drill guide to keep everything square

 

[scissorman]

Why would you want to use it in a drill, production work perhaps?

 

[Wamsutta]

Why would you want to use it in a drill, production work perhaps?

I'm afraid if I try to use the drill bit with a tap wrench, I won't be able to keep the drill bit at the correct angle. It's going to be tough enough with a hand drill. To make matters worse, the hole is not a 90 from the deck.

 

[T45]

I'm afraid if I try to use the drill bit with a tap wrench, I won't be able to keep the drill bit at the correct angle. It's going to be tough enough with a hand drill. To make matters worse, the hole is not a 90 from the deck.

Be very, very careful...doing this. what material are you tapping into?

Steel or aluminum?

 

[T45]

Just that free-hand off-axis drilling into any sort of difficult substrate is going to raise issues -- with the insert needing a near-perfect | | hole this is something to think about.

The tap guide is 90deg but you can fab it to your application -- just grind/file it to the correct angle. Simple enough, or you may some some other plan.

 

[scissorman]

Is this a spark plug hole or something else? I've installed thousands of Time-Serts and have never seen a kit come with a drill bit, then again everything I've done has been a spark plug hole repair and not a general hole repair.

 

[Wamsutta]

T45 - The material is a cast iron cylinder head. Bolt holes for intake manifold.

scissorman - What I'm not clear on is the insert length. Time-Sert says you need to have your insert .200" shorter than the hole depth for blind holes, but they say nothing about thru-holes. Can I have the insert the same length as the depth of the hole on a thru-hole application? Time-Sert says that if the last 3 threads of the insert protrude past the hole, the insert won't lock.

 

[lilcraigford]

...What I'm not clear on is the insert length. Time-Sert says you need to have your insert .200" shorter than the hole depth for blind holes, but they say nothing about thru-holes. Can I have the insert the same length as the depth of the hole on a thru-hole application? Time-Sert says that if the last 3 threads of the insert protrude past the hole, the insert won't lock.

The internal threads toward the bottom of the Time-Sert insert aren't fully formed. During installation the insert driver cold-forms these partially formed threads. As a result, the area where this action occurs expands, locking the insert into the base material.

With regard to thru-holes, as long as the bottom-most threads have material to lock into you should be all set. As for the insert needing to be shorter than the blind hole its going into, this is so the insert driver doesn't bottom out before forming the lower threads.

 

[Wamsutta]

lilcraigford - Thanks. You sound like one of the Time-Sert tech guys.

I threaded a 5/16''-18 X 3/4'' bolt into a couple of holes. The very tip just barely goes past the bottom of the hole with the head seated against the deck. I can't see the tip of the bolt. I have to rely on the feeling in my finger tip. It feels almost flush. I ordered a Time-Sert kit with 5/16"-18 X .450" inserts and a separate package of 5/16"-18 X .0620" inserts. I was hoping that I could use the longer inserts and still have them lock.

 

[mbshop]

I never used a drill. Just asking for trouble. Unless the setup was purposely made for using a drill. Used them back in the 70s to present. Never used a helocoil. Tried but threw the kit into the trash.

 

[scissorman]

lilcraigford nail it. Keep in mind that as long as the insert is at least as long as the diameter of the bolt anything longer gains you nothing as far as strength.