I need to replace the timing belt on a 99 ranger, do I really need the special tool to release the tension on the timing belt or can I get by without it? I have never replaced a timing belt before so this is new to me.
Tools for timing belt?
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Deafautotech
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only way to find if you need special tool is open the cover to see on timing belt to see if it dont need any special tool but i know that ford have special tool to do the right job instead make mess up that will cause valve bent if have timing belt on wrong timing.
kartracer55
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What kind of motor is it?
Deafautotech
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more like 2.3L inline four cylinders.... unless it is 4.0L v6..... remember i work most in chrysler and jeep but still work in Lincoln and Mercury dealershop shop....
The Autodata book says it is a 2.5 L engine - remove and install time is 1.2 hrs. adding .90 for A/C. The only tools need are a general purpose puller (3-bolt type - crankshaft pulley) and a tensioner tool - Ford No. 303-097 .. I think a prybar would do the same thing .. 
kartracer55
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I have never done this motor, but one cool trick I learned, once you get the timing marks lined up, you cna use one of those ********* paper clip things to hold a timing belt tight on a pulley. Great for DOHC motors where you need to get the belts on multiple pulleys at the same time, while keeping them snug
Jim
Jim
KingPerformance
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White out, best tool ever invented for timing belts.
Charles (in GA)
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You don't say what motor, I don't think any of the six cylinder engines in this truck have belts however. I have done the timing belt on my 2.3 engine in my '91 Ranger, about three times now (every 60,000 mi), it is the same engine as the 2.5 in the later trucks. The tensioner is spring loaded againist the timing belt and all you need is a short, flat ended prybar. loosen the idler pivot bolt a turn or so. The pry bar will hook under the pivot for the spring loaded idler and you push againist the toothed surface of the belt where it wraps around the idler. Rotate it down and to your left (vehicles right) and while holding it there, take a rachet and socket and re-tighen the pivot bolt, holding it in a position where the belt can be removed or installed.
The belt is cheap, about $13, you probably should replace the idler pulley and bracket, about $35.
Hardest part is loosening the crank center bolt, it is super tight the first time. The clutch will not hold the engine, I had to put a 24 inch pipe wrench on the crank damper after I removed the pulleys (damper is solid iron, no rubber in it) and then I had to use a 4 ft cheater bar! I;m told this is normal for the first time coming off. Retighten it snugly with a 1/2 drive ratchet and breaker bar when done, don't over tighten it, it won't come loose.
Charles
The belt is cheap, about $13, you probably should replace the idler pulley and bracket, about $35.
Hardest part is loosening the crank center bolt, it is super tight the first time. The clutch will not hold the engine, I had to put a 24 inch pipe wrench on the crank damper after I removed the pulleys (damper is solid iron, no rubber in it) and then I had to use a 4 ft cheater bar! I;m told this is normal for the first time coming off. Retighten it snugly with a 1/2 drive ratchet and breaker bar when done, don't over tighten it, it won't come loose.
Charles
KingPerformance
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Easy way out, pull ECM fuse, hook up breaker bar to crank center bolt, and bump starter ... that is IF and ONLY if the engine rotates in the proper direction to loosen the bolt. And make sure you have the breaker bar secured against something that will NOT move and damage something in the vehicle, or hurt you.
1320stang
Well-known member
Yeah, I suggest white out and spring clips as well. I replaced the timing belt on a Mercury Villager (same as Nissan Quest) and the timing belt I bought had timing marks on it, the problem is one of the marks was a few teeth off. Luckily I had marked the old belt with white out (a paint pen works as well). Mark the edge of the old belt where the dots are, then you can count the teeth to confirm when you transfer the marks to the new belt
I didn't use the black paper clips, I used spring clamps, I've got several in different sizes. A friend showed me that trick while putting a timing belt in a Chrysler LHS I used to have. Once you have the mark on the belt lined up with the dot, put the squeeze clamp on there. Route the belt and get the other dot lined up on the crank. I then use a breaker bar to tighten the slack and place the tensioner in there.
I don't even worry about if the #1 cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke if the car runs okay and you're just replacing the belt, as long as the marks in the new belt line up with the old one. Now on the LHS, the belt was broke, so I had to get the crank lined up right.
I didn't use the black paper clips, I used spring clamps, I've got several in different sizes. A friend showed me that trick while putting a timing belt in a Chrysler LHS I used to have. Once you have the mark on the belt lined up with the dot, put the squeeze clamp on there. Route the belt and get the other dot lined up on the crank. I then use a breaker bar to tighten the slack and place the tensioner in there.
I don't even worry about if the #1 cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke if the car runs okay and you're just replacing the belt, as long as the marks in the new belt line up with the old one. Now on the LHS, the belt was broke, so I had to get the crank lined up right.
I forgot to mention it was a 2.5 liter. I think Charles answered my question but thanks for the other tips you guys mentioned. Also I was planning on putting a new idler pulley on. Thanks alot, that just saved about a $100 dollars for that tool so I can buy something that I will use more than once. 
I've done some Ford 2.3s, and once did a 2.0 (Pinto) in a parking lot on a deadline. One tip common to all...once the marks are lined up, the belt installed, and the tensioner released...slowly turn the engine (in the direction of normal rotation) around 3 or 4 times at the crank before tightening the tensioner.
This will allow the belt to stretch a bit, get everything settled, and allow for a final check of all the marks before locking it down.
I've never used a special tool for a tensioner. Whatever will get it out of the way to replace the belt will work.
This will allow the belt to stretch a bit, get everything settled, and allow for a final check of all the marks before locking it down.
I've never used a special tool for a tensioner. Whatever will get it out of the way to replace the belt will work.
TNToy
Well-known member
Beginner timing belt tips:
Turn the crank over with a long 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar until the mark on the pulley lines up with the one on the timing cover. Then check the one up top on the cam pulley. If it's really close, bump then engine until it lines up perfect. If it's a good bit off, spin the crank around until it lines up again. There are two places where the crank will line up: The two points in the four-cycle pattern where the piston is at the top of the cylinder. Both of those will align the crank's timing mark, but only one will line up the cam.
Buy a paint pen in a bright color. I prefer yellow. White-out or nail polish work in a pinch.
Use it to mark the crank and cam timing marks, and to make a mark on the pulley and the belt at random points on each pulley. After removing the old pulley, stretch the belts out and transfer the marks EXACTLY to the new belt. if the timing marks line up and your belt marks line up, you know you're not a tooth off.
Here's the one that's hard to teach, but helps once you get your head around it. There's going to be slack in the belt when you install it: The tensioner is backed off. You want to take all the slack out of the side of the belt that runs around the Cam, idler, and crank pulleys... so that all of the slop is on the half of the belt where the tensioner lies. That way, when the tensioner is released, it takes out ALL the slack.
Usually, this means that after installing the belt, and right before releasing the tensioner, you turn the cam gear(s) to tighten the belt on the non-tensioned side of the loop, and move all of the slack to the area where the tensioner lies.
To check for proper timing, after you reinstall the belt and pulley, but BEFORE installing the upper cover, spin the engine over again until the marks line up. Now that the turning of the engine has seated the belt and properly tensioned everything, it'll be really obvious if your cam gear's timing mark doesn't quite line up... meaning your off by a tooth or two.
Don't worry too much about installing it a tooth or two off: It won't ruin the engine, you'll just have to tear it back apart and move it so the check engine light doesn't come on, and you're not down on power. It'll cost you time, but it won't ruin valves and pistons unless you REALLY screw it up.
Turn the crank over with a long 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar until the mark on the pulley lines up with the one on the timing cover. Then check the one up top on the cam pulley. If it's really close, bump then engine until it lines up perfect. If it's a good bit off, spin the crank around until it lines up again. There are two places where the crank will line up: The two points in the four-cycle pattern where the piston is at the top of the cylinder. Both of those will align the crank's timing mark, but only one will line up the cam.
Buy a paint pen in a bright color. I prefer yellow. White-out or nail polish work in a pinch.
Use it to mark the crank and cam timing marks, and to make a mark on the pulley and the belt at random points on each pulley. After removing the old pulley, stretch the belts out and transfer the marks EXACTLY to the new belt. if the timing marks line up and your belt marks line up, you know you're not a tooth off.
Here's the one that's hard to teach, but helps once you get your head around it. There's going to be slack in the belt when you install it: The tensioner is backed off. You want to take all the slack out of the side of the belt that runs around the Cam, idler, and crank pulleys... so that all of the slop is on the half of the belt where the tensioner lies. That way, when the tensioner is released, it takes out ALL the slack.
Usually, this means that after installing the belt, and right before releasing the tensioner, you turn the cam gear(s) to tighten the belt on the non-tensioned side of the loop, and move all of the slack to the area where the tensioner lies.
To check for proper timing, after you reinstall the belt and pulley, but BEFORE installing the upper cover, spin the engine over again until the marks line up. Now that the turning of the engine has seated the belt and properly tensioned everything, it'll be really obvious if your cam gear's timing mark doesn't quite line up... meaning your off by a tooth or two.
Don't worry too much about installing it a tooth or two off: It won't ruin the engine, you'll just have to tear it back apart and move it so the check engine light doesn't come on, and you're not down on power. It'll cost you time, but it won't ruin valves and pistons unless you REALLY screw it up.
TNToy
Well-known member
Not a horrible suggestion, Wil.
This may drive you nuts, being that extremely-detail-oriented type: There are quite a few vehicles I do without aligning the timing marks. Make your own match-marks on the belt and the pulleys wherever the motor stopped, transfer the marks to the new belt, and install. Only been a tooth off on one doing it that way so far, out of quite a few. And I caught it right away.
This may drive you nuts, being that extremely-detail-oriented type: There are quite a few vehicles I do without aligning the timing marks. Make your own match-marks on the belt and the pulleys wherever the motor stopped, transfer the marks to the new belt, and install. Only been a tooth off on one doing it that way so far, out of quite a few. And I caught it right away.
Since I have never done this before I had planned on rotating the engine several times to make sure it's right before putting everything back together. I am glad I asked this question and it turned into a timing belt for dummies. 
Now I know several little tricks from the guys that have done this.
Now I know several little tricks from the guys that have done this.WWheeler
Well-known member
I'm going to revive this decade old post because it still shows up as a top google result for changing ford ranger / mazda b-series pickup timing belts and because there is a much better way than using a prybar or even the SST.
Slip a large (~ 1-1/8" or 26mm-ish) 1/2 dr socket over the bolt to the power steering / ac compressor bracket that you just removed and replace it. As you tighten it down it will push on the belt tensioner (with the tensioner bolts loosened just a bit to allow movement) allowing you to remove and install the belt easily by yourself with no hassles.
Credit for this goes to the guy in this vid. I've just tried it and it works a charm.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/MlRhy5T93Gk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Slip a large (~ 1-1/8" or 26mm-ish) 1/2 dr socket over the bolt to the power steering / ac compressor bracket that you just removed and replace it. As you tighten it down it will push on the belt tensioner (with the tensioner bolts loosened just a bit to allow movement) allowing you to remove and install the belt easily by yourself with no hassles.
Credit for this goes to the guy in this vid. I've just tried it and it works a charm.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/MlRhy5T93Gk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Last edited:
bcschief
Well-known member
When your done rotate the engine over 2 revolutions and recheck the timing marks to verify it is timed correctly before you try to start it.
Brian
Brian