Tools that need to be quality

[Burt Shaver]

I’ve been changing the wheel bearings and cv axle boots on my ATV, I have a pair of channellock 927 snap ring pliers, made in the USA and the tip broke off flush with the tool. I’ve been in touch with channellock and I’m pretty sure they are going to send me a replacement set but it got me to thinking about which tools should be of good quality in regards to small engine and automotive repair. I also have a set of cheap ones from Amazon and they won’t do it, no matter how hard I press the snap ring always slide off before I can get it out or slide a screw driver under the ring, so I’m going to start it off by saying snap ring pliers

 

[Burt Shaver]

 

[tyyost]

Interchangeable tip snap ring pliers are not usually considered as quality tools. While there are nicer versions, like yours, they are not typically reliable in difficult situations.

 

[tarmy]

Floor jacks, Jack stands and anything else that you use on something that can kill you.

 

[no704]

Got a pretty cheap set of snap ring pliers on

 

[bwringer]

I really, really hate those damn interchangeable tip snap ring pliers. Useless shite. But why can't you loosen the setscrew and replace the tip? It won't work any better, but maybe there's a less ugly snap ring somewhere in the future where they'll actually work.

As far as hand tools, I'd have to say anything where sharpness matters. For example, if the teeth inside cheap needle nose pliers isn't sharp, they won't grab and they will damage the work.

Same goes for razor and knife blades, screwdriver bits, etc. Get the good stuff.

That extends to all consumables, really. Cheap battery power tools, for example, work just fine when you spend a bit more on quality blades, bits, sandpaper, wheels, discs, etc.

Lastly, I'd say hex (allen) keys and bits, as well as Torx stuff. Cheap tools cause untold anguish and damage, and there's just no reason to skimp; there are several excellent brands out there at very reasonable prices. Wera, PB Swiss, Bondhus, Eklind, etc.

Wera's hex-plus stuff in particular is amazing.

Wobbly bit holders (and sloppy tools in general) drive me nuts. I use dedicated drivers as much as possible, but sometimes you run into an oddball situation where a bit is the only answer. I have a few higher-quality bit holders (Felo, PB Swiss, etc.) that fit somewhat better than average, but they still wobble.

 

[Sweetcorn]

Seeing these made me laugh. There's a pair of those as far away from the back door to my shop as I could angrily throw them. If I ever do walk by them again, I wont pick them up.
I bought knipex snap ring pliers and have been a happier person ever since.

 

[no704]

Haven’t used them tons, but they seem pretty nice for the price.

 

[Burt Shaver]

I really, really hate those damn interchangeable tip snap ring pliers. Useless shite. But why can't you loosen the setscrew and replace the tip? It won't work any better, but maybe there's a less ugly snap ring somewhere in the future where they'll actually work.

As far as hand tools, I'd have to say anything where sharpness matters. For example, if the teeth inside cheap needle nose pliers isn't sharp, they won't grab and they will damage the work.

Same goes for razor and knife blades, screwdriver bits, etc. Get the good stuff.

That extends to all consumables, really. Cheap battery power tools, for example, work just fine when you spend a bit more on quality blades, bits, sandpaper, wheels, discs, etc.

Lastly, I'd say hex (allen) keys and bits, as well as Torx stuff. Cheap tools cause untold anguish and damage, and there's just no reason to skimp; there are several excellent brands out there at very reasonable prices. Wera, PB Swiss, Bondhus, Eklind, etc.

Wera's hex-plus stuff in particular is amazing.

Wobbly bit holders (and sloppy tools in general) drive me nuts. I use dedicated drivers as much as possible, but sometimes you run into an oddball situation where a bit is the only answer. I have a few higher-quality bit holders (Felo, PB Swiss, etc.) that fit somewhat better than average, but they still wobble.

It broke off flush, I took the set screw out and tapped the side of the jaws with a small hammer but I couldn’t get it to fall out. When I took the other one out I had to use a pair of pliers to pull it out, they are in there pretty snug. Tried heating the jaw to expand it a bit, no go. Tried drilling it out, messed that up, then tried welding one of the other tips in just to get me by till the replacement set comes in. When I bought these, I thought I was buying a quality set, they were roughly 60.00 CDN but maybe a few sets that don’t have the interchangeable tip would be better.

 

[Burt Shaver]

Haven’t used them tons, but they seem pretty nice for the price.

They look pretty good, I guess as long as it’s decent quality steel and doesn’t break they would do the job just fine. I’m going to re read some posts here and buy something similar but from a known reputable brand. Just want something I can rely on

 

[Burt Shaver]

Seeing these made me laugh. There's a pair of those as far away from the back door to my shop as I could angrily throw them. If I ever do walk by them again, I wont pick them up.
I bought knipex snap ring pliers and have been a happier person ever since.

They weren’t a cheap pair, the mechanism seems pretty robust, just unfortunate that the tip snapped the way it did.

 

[tiredoldironworker]

Dedicated single size pliers are the only way to go. I have found all interchangeable tips to ****.

 

[Dave455]

As soon as I saw the thread title I thought of circlip / snap ring pliers. Especially those with 45 degree or 90 degree tips. I remember trying to use a pair of those interchangeable tip things years ago on a difficult clip, and it was impossible.

I’m with bwringer and would say male hex / torx bit sockets, These things often need to withstand a lot of torque for their size and the crappy ones just don’t work.

Magnetic bit drivers. The cheap ones don’t have strong enough magnets so you will lose the bit. If not at random then surely when you attempt to withdraw the driver from the fastener.

Striking or struck tools, particularly punches. Back when I first started, I had decent wrenches but poor punches. Should have been the other way. You can get good mid price and even inexpensive wrenches, but cheap punches deform to be unusable too quickly, or worse still, break!

Any cutting or grinding tool, but particularly those that rotate at high speed. I have used die grinder burrs that blunt on first contact, and die grinder stones that disintegrate. It’s not only frustrating but dangerous. I don’t even try burrs or stones of unknown provenance now. Same goes for angle grinder discs really.

Drill bits. Too many crappy ones out there. Not only do they blunt quickly, they have an awful “feel”. Don’t need cobalt or TiN coated, just decent.

Safety Gear. Good stuff is cheap enough. Why compromise on eyewear, hearing protection, gloves etc?

 

[kngelv]

I’ve been changing the wheel bearings and cv axle boots on my ATV, I have a pair of channellock 927 snap ring pliers, made in the USA and the tip broke off flush with the tool. I’ve been in touch with channellock and I’m pretty sure they are going to send me a replacement set but it got me to thinking about which tools should be of good quality in regards to small engine and automotive repair. I also have a set of cheap ones from Amazon and they won’t do it, no matter how hard I press the snap ring always slide off before I can get it out or slide a screw driver under the ring, so I’m going to start it off by saying snap ring pliers

I'd like to think every single tool you use should be of good quality. I hate crappy tools.

James

 

[AEAdam]

Haven’t used them tons, but they seem pretty nice for the price.

Don't take this the wrong way: having them and having used them are 2 different things.

"Got these for a steal"
"Then I used them and I was robbed"

We've had this thread before and snap ring pliers are always high on the list. I have (and use the hell out of) the forged Knipex models. Have collected a drawer full now. Snap ring/cir-clips are a pain at the best of times. When I rebuilt the head of my Bridgeport, I needed a couple I didn't have and I bought the "master set". Apparently not quite master enough. Just when you think you have them all THERE ARE MORE

 

[no704]

Just saying that the hand full of times I have used them seems pretty good for the cost. I keep forgetting to throw out the handful of stamped ones that I I hate!

 

[Burt Shaver]

I think I’m going to use the replacement ones until they break and then the next set looks like it will be knipex

 

[Hakeem]

Floor jacks, Jack stands and anything else that you use on something that can kill you.

I appreciate the thinking but I’m not sure expensive jacks/stands are significantly safer than the ones you can get at HF or the auto parts store.

Don't take this the wrong way: having them and having used them are 2 different things.

"Got these for a steal"
"Then I used them and I was robbed"

We've had this thread before and snap ring pliers are always high on the list. I have (and use the hell out of) the forged Knipex models. Have collected a drawer full now. Snap ring/cir-clips are a pain at the best of times. When I rebuilt the head of my Bridgeport, I needed a couple I didn't have and I bought the "master set". Apparently not quite master enough. Just when you think you have them all THERE ARE MORE

Any particular reason you opted for Knipex over Snapon? I was looking to invest in a set at some point and i was leaning towards Snapon due to price/warranty (i get student discount so they are less expensive than Knipex).

 

[CHI_Tool&Die]

I really, really hate those damn interchangeable tip snap ring pliers. Useless shite. But why can't you loosen the setscrew and replace the tip? It won't work any better, but maybe there's a less ugly snap ring somewhere in the future where they'll actually work.

As far as hand tools, I'd have to say anything where sharpness matters. For example, if the teeth inside cheap needle nose pliers isn't sharp, they won't grab and they will damage the work.

Same goes for razor and knife blades, screwdriver bits, etc. Get the good stuff.

That extends to all consumables, really. Cheap battery power tools, for example, work just fine when you spend a bit more on quality blades, bits, sandpaper, wheels, discs, etc.

Lastly, I'd say hex (allen) keys and bits, as well as Torx stuff. Cheap tools cause untold anguish and damage, and there's just no reason to skimp; there are several excellent brands out there at very reasonable prices. Wera, PB Swiss, Bondhus, Eklind, etc.

Wera's hex-plus stuff in particular is amazing.

Wobbly bit holders (and sloppy tools in general) drive me nuts. I use dedicated drivers as much as possible, but sometimes you run into an oddball situation where a bit is the only answer. I have a few higher-quality bit holders (Felo, PB Swiss, etc.) that fit somewhat better than average, but they still wobble.

The first thought that popped up in my head was hex keys, bits, and bit sockets. Bad quality ones can absolutely make your life a miserable hell.

Second thought was screwdrivers. Third was kitchen knives.

 

[seber]

I appreciate the thinking but I’m not sure expensive jacks/stands are significantly safer than the ones you can get at HF or the auto parts store.

Any particular reason you opted for Knipex over Snapon? I was looking to invest in a set at some point and i was leaning towards Snapon due to price/warranty (i get student discount so they are less expensive than Knipex).

I have some of each. I prefer the Snap-on. Not that there is a large difference.

 

[AEAdam]

I think I’m going to use the replacement ones until they break and then the next set looks like it will be knipex

It’s not just an esoteric tool quality thing. They are actually easier to use. The joints are tight with no play. And the springs are nice, just the right amount of spring. Sometimes I have to stick these into holes where I really can’t see much. So it’s all feel. And the pins are angled so the clip doesn’t slip out. I’ve tried a couple different pairs and these are just head and shoulders better.

I have not used the snap on versions.

 

[ecotec]

The first thought that popped up in my head was hex keys, bits, and bit sockets. Bad quality ones can absolutely make your life a miserable hell.

Second thought was screwdrivers. Third was kitchen knives.

This is a perfect list.

 

[txvwnut]

I bought this set and have been really pleased with them.

Retaining Ring Pliers Set (0.037, 0.047, 0.070, 0.090 in.) | TEKTON

16-piece set includes straight and 90-degree internal and external retaining ring (snap ring/circlip) pliers with 0.037, 0.047, 0.070, and 0.090 inch tips. PRR90100.

www.tekton.com

As for tools that need to be quality, all of the ones that get purchased should be quality.

 

[Steel_Rain]

As most of us, I was very young when I starting working on stuff. Some of my early memories from the 90's when Dad would let me help him work on our old Honda Trail 70's (I was like 5). He didn't know there was such a thing as JIS screws and I remember him rounding out many of these, despite being very talented mechanically.

Between the cursing and yelling that happened because of that, my PTSD ROFLMAO led me to buy these:



If your working on anything Japanese, I suggest you do the same.

 

[Sweetcorn]

High end flare nut wrenches can be the difference between a 15 minute job and a 3 day ordeal.

 

[IndyGarage]

• Multitool - I carry a Leatherman all the time. I can't stand the cheap knock offs
• Drill bits - Cheap ones will let you down every time.
• Electric meters - call me a Fluke snob, but I will pick one of them every time over others
• Pliers - Cheap pliers are a disappointment - Knipex, Snap on are worth it
• Vise - I like the old ones best, but the good ones are way better than cheap ones
• Toolbox - you don't have to have an expensive brand, but an organized tool bag or box will make you much more productive

 

[Burt Shaver]

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Thoughts on this set? Keep in mind, this is CDN dollars

 

[Gangly]

Allen and Torx keys
And if you do a lot of wrenching, then wrenches and sockets

 

[Jbear]

I appreciate the thinking but I’m not sure expensive jacks/stands are significantly safer than the ones you can get at HF or the auto parts store.

In my experience, while there's often a correlation...less expensive doesn't always mean low/no quality. Some companies do produce well-made items that are inexpensive (relatively). It may not be everything they make, but there can be a sleeper in there somewhere. The converse can also be true...there's some pricey **** out there.

 

[humber2]

Paint brushes, too many found wanting.

 

[Oregon Dave]

On the theme ‘Tools that need to be quality’; two thoughts come easily to mind.

1. The situation; bad deal if harm comes to you or others because the tool you owned failed in an emergency.

2. Frequency of use; being retired, small rancher - will tolerate a POC flex head ratchet; a professional mechanic wouldn’t.

 

[willf650]

As most of us, I was very young when I starting working on stuff. Some of my early memories from the 90's when Dad would let me help him work on our old Honda Trail 70's (I was like 5). He didn't know there was such a thing as JIS screws and I remember him rounding out many of these, despite being very talented mechanically.

Between the cursing and yelling that happened because of that, my PTSD ROFLMAO led me to buy these:



If your working on anything Japanese, I suggest you do the same.

I have that exact bottom set in my motorcycle roll cart.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Things for me as a professional mechanic I’m going to say quality line wrenches are a must have. Snap-on is the only ones I trust for really tight fittings. Also quality regular wrenches too especially for alignments. And quality ratchets and pliers of all sorts.

 

[KnurledNut]

Tools that need to be quality?
All of them!

It would be easier to list the tools that don't need to be quality.
Here's that list:

 

[moemc]

I have those channel lock snap ring pliers, I use them on this one assemblies snap ring almost every day. Definitely don’t throw them out. Snap rings can be really nuanced and you might find one that those are just perfect for too. I even ordered a set of Knipex for this exact snap ring last year, and used it a couple times and went back to this channel lock unit because it’s just really good at this particular snap ring I use it on. It’s a pretty low tension application though, I haven’t tried using these on a heavy duty snap ring.

 

[HannibalLecter]

Screwdrivers, L keys, snap ring pliers and drill bits

 

[AEAdam]

Any particular reason you opted for Knipex over Snapon? I was looking to invest in a set at some point and i was leaning towards Snapon due to price/warranty (i get student discount so they are less expensive than Knipex).

Snap on are hardened sheet metal. Knipex are forgings. I’ve never used the Snap on models and people here who have like them. With the SEP discount, they are probably no brainers.

I have used all manner of sheet metal snap ring pliers including replaceable tip, non-replaceable tip, probably all made in China.

The thing about the KNIPEX models is directly behind the tip, there’s just gobs of forged steel stiffness. And the joints are lovely stiff. So the only thing moving when you are squeezing the handles is those tips.

Snap ring pliers aren’t like most other tools we talk about. They need strength to crack free corrosion and friction, but then we really need finesse and control.

Last big use of snap ring pliers for me was that bridgeport head where there were a bunch of these on shafts, holding in bearings, all different sizes and situations. I need a smaller pair than the master set had and a enormous set for the belt housing. I was guided by Barry‘s videos from H&W and he kinda struggled with the same job I was doing, said he breaks snap ring often. I didn’t have any of those problems he had in the video. I feel, because he lacked better quality snap ring pliers.

I doubt you’ll be disappointed with Snap on.

For everyone else- the use of snap ring pliers FOR ME, is often associated with a job where I’m tearing into something expensive, or complicated. These aren’t tools for your automotive go bag, or oil changes on your Hyundai. I needed these to rebuild the hydros on my lawn mower, bearing replacements, transmissions of different sorts etc. I think this is why so many of us say don’t go cheap on this tool.

 

[AEAdam]

In my experience, while there's often a correlation...less expensive doesn't always mean low/no quality. Some companies do produce well-made items that are inexpensive (relatively). It may not be everything they make, but there can be a sleeper in there somewhere. The converse can also be true...there's some pricey **** out there.

Appreciate the post and want to agree, but I’m failing to think of an example. I think it would be interesting to learn.

For carpentry, I’m currently using yellow handled Stanley chisels. They are cheap as chips and good. Again, for carpentry, i like my Enderes screwdrivers. I’m a fan of Zeta saws.

For automotive, I’m coming up blank. HF dead blow hammers? The handles ****. HF prybars? Do they have alignment pins? I bought cheap brass drifts. Like those. Love my Xuron pliers but they aren’t the cheapest, they are just inexpensive. Plastic prybars, they should be super cheap. The yellow HF models are little too soft for me. Mag dishes? Agree HF are good enough and couldn’t be cheaper. Shop rags? Paper towels? Aren’t really tools.

 

[Hannahranga]

I'd like to think every single tool you use should be of good quality. I hate crappy tools.

James

There's a time and a place for cheap tools. If you're only doing the job twice and more likely to lose it in the decade between this time and the next. That kind of stuff.

Or because you're using it under water on shackles (admittedly that's a tad specific)

 

[jives]

Knives, particularly folders, and furniture. Okay, so furniture is not exactly tools, but nothing gets ruined more in a household of kids than particle board, cheap veneer and melamine, toxic fabrics, degrading padding, and so forth.