Torque Wrench Purchase for a Newbie Shade Tree

[Jbear]

Okay...feel free to ignore this or to be sarcastic, but...I'm working on my Hondas and Subaru, and it's the usual non-certified tech stuff...lugs, engine stuff not requiring an engine hoist...you know...the stuff. I'm not rebuilding any motors or a trans. The spec ranges are typical...14 for the little stuff...80-90-ish (all ft-lbs) for lugs.
So...I see all kinds of stuff about expensive v inexpensive. I don't make a living with this stuff, I'm not in a pit crew, and most of what I am doing is on an 06 CRV that will see >5K miles a year and 90% at 45mph or under.
Would I be a ***** to think that a set like Wett, Suzume or Vevor, or similar Amazon stuff would be adequate? Right now I am getting ready to do a serp belt and tensioner and spec-ing anywhere from 17-40 ft-lbs, and then doing rear brakes so I'll need to do lug nuts.
I know there's good stuff out there, and that if some of that good stuff is less than others...that'd be my preferred route.
Alright...let me have it. I'm sure that nothing said here will come close to what I have to endure when I'm being chirped in my hockey games.

 

[kbeefy]

Inexpensive stuff will be fine. If you have concerns about it you can have it tested, or compare it against someone elses that you trust.

I'd get a 1/2 that goes to 200# for lug nuts and a 3/8 that goes to 75# or so for everything else.

Click style.

 

[tak1313]

Many users - and tests - have shown the basic Pittsburgh torque wrenches from Harbor Freight are not only superbly accurate, but CHEAP.

Just remember that with clickers, you need to return the wrench back to zero when storing so as not to cause permanent compression.

One of my 1/4" ones (I believe it's my Chicago Pneumatic, but not sure - I have 3 different 1/4") even recommend storage at SLIGHTLY below minimum on the scale.

Also, I believe there's a test out there (YT?) that shows it's also best to "exercise" the wrench by doing a few clicks prior to actual application.

As my 3/8 and 1/2 are split-beams now, I only have 1/4 that are clickers. Although split-beams also "click," most refer to micrometer types as "clickers."

Also note that IN GENERAL, the larger the range of the torque range, the more error prone they tend to be, especially at the lower end of their range. For this reason, I have 2 split beams - 1 @ 10-50 ft lbs, and 1 @ 20-100 ft lbs.

The vast majority of torque wrenches are accuracy rated AT 20% OF FULL SCALE. In other words, the lower end is already accounting for that. For example, 20% of 100 ft lbs is 20 ft lbs, 20% of 50 ft lbs is 10 ft lbs. It's not 20% BETWEEN 10 and 50 ft lbs (for example).

Electronic and dial types are the most accurate, but as DIY, I don't need the accuracy myself. Having built/rebuilt engines in my high school days with clickers, I have no issue using them instead of electronic or dial if I had to do it today.

 

[Jbear]

Thanks guys. I have been watching the Torque Test Channel and some of the "known to know their s**t" channels in order to educate myself, but...
I'm going to try one of the sets on Amazon...if it's trash, I'll return it and let you know.

 

[dnschmidt]

I've liked eTork (bought on Amazon) for normal click type torque wrenches but I must caution you that for many automotive torque to yield applications, which are multiplying like rabbits, you need a digital with angle torque wrench. The Quinn, made by (Eclatorq) wrenches are very good and from time to time Harbor Freight has 40% off sales on torque wrenches.

 

[charbar]

How are you going to know if they are trash or inaccurate without having a way to test them?

I think I would save myself the time, frustration, and lingering thought in the back of my head asking "Is it ok or not?" and just buy something that is proven to work correctly.

 

[Jbear]

Would you (not you if you wouldn't do either) grab 2 Pittsburgh Pros (3/8 and 1/2), or an Amazon set of three Vevor et al.

 

[DAWrench]

The two Pittsburgh. There should be enough overlap of range to be able to compare the accuracy between the two.

 

[AEAdam]

Are there any cheap electronic torque wrenches? For this user, angles may not be required.

I have an old craftsman clicker and it’s fine. You could probably pick something up on eBay. The nice thing about digitals is when you only have one, it’s easy to set, easy to change units, and you don’t need to worry about storing it in a certain setting.

 

[Beerhippie]

After rockin' the Armstrong torque wrench for my personal uses for many years, I finally broke down and bought a ~$60 Azon wrench that was rated highly by TTC---I don't recall (and likely can't pronounce) the brand and I'm too lazy to walk across the shop to see.

I've also been impressed by some of the test run by TTC and others showing that the "always leave the micrometer set to zero" theory to be essentially baseless. Do I still set mine to zero before putting it away? Yep--because "we've always done it that way".

 

[M635_Guy]

I'd rather have multiple Pittsburgh torque wrenches that covered a range of values because the higher and lower end of pretty much all of them is suspect, and that made me nervous for things like spark plugs. The more stuff I did the better torque wrenches I invested in, but when I got the Quinn torque adapter and checked out my different torque wrenches (Quinn, Icon and SO) I was happy to find they were all still pretty spot on. I try to make sure I'm not completely relying on the torque wrench though - I keep hearing stories of people snapping off fasteners or (nightmare-fuel) spark plugs and wonder how blindly they're pulling on the wrench.

 

[kbeefy]

I've been using torque wrenches subjected to the DOTs recurring certifications for almost 25 years now. I've had my calibrated tools tested every year for 25 ish years. For a significant portion of that I had access to a company calibrated fixture to retest and confirm our own tools.

Snap On
Matco
Mac
Proto
Craftsman

For 25 years they all were within a couple pounds (3-6%) of their ratings.
I never have had a calibrated tool loose certification.

You can figure a 'good enough' torque by hand most of the time. I use a torque wrench by habit on lug nuts, and then on other things that I deem critical like head bolts and carrier bearings, but there is a pretty good 'fudge factor' on most applications.
Just be aware of how much variance may be allowable.

 

[KnurledNut]

The majority of my torque wrenches have been bought gently used. Very good quality for very little money.
It’s not too hard to tell how they have been treated. If they look/feel abused, pass. Any signs of being opened/tampered, pass.

My go-to currently are:
-Precision Instruments M1R200, 1/4 micrometer 40-200 inlb.
-ICON TW38-200, compact 3/8 in 1/4 body micrometer 40-200 inlb.
-Gearwrench 85062M, 3/8 micrometer 10-100 ftlb that meets ASME B107.300 and was professionally calibrated.
-K-D 2952, 1/2 micrometer 30-250 ftlb.
-Snap-on TQFR250, 1/2 flex head split beam 40-250 ftlb.
-1/2 Digital torque adaptor M206, 150 ftlb max.

 

[tak1313]

How are you going to know if they are trash or inaccurate without having a way to test them?

I think I would save myself the time, frustration, and lingering thought in the back of my head asking "Is it ok or not?" and just buy something that is proven to work correctly.

Many electronic torque adapters these days are very accurate, the Quinn from HF being easily accessible for most and have tested by many as accurate. For home use, I would consider testing with those fine, just set it to peak mode, set the wrench, and see what the torque adapter reads at click.

Most states have at least one calibration service in-state, especially states that have manufacturing businesses, and you can also do mail-in. The last time I checked around, the ones near me charge around $60 per.

 

[charbar]

Many electronic torque adapters these days are very accurate, the Quinn from HF being easily accessible for most and have tested by many as accurate. For home use, I would consider testing with those fine, just set it to peak mode, set the wrench, and see what the torque adapter reads at click.

Most states have at least one calibration service in-state, especially states that have manufacturing businesses, and you can also do mail-in. The last time I checked around, the ones near me charge around $60 per.

Yes but I feel like the OP is trying to save money so I don't believe they would want to go spend more money on a torque adapter or getting them tested/calibrated.

Would you (not you if you wouldn't do either) grab 2 Pittsburgh Pros (3/8 and 1/2), or an Amazon set of three Vevor et al.

My scenario is a little different than yours as I turn wrenches professionally and I have a drawer full of Snap On, Precision, CDI and Sturtevant Richmont torque wrenches BUT.......
If my only options were Pittsburgh or something from Amazon I would take the Pittsburgh every time. They have been tested and proven to be more than adequate for most DIY/Home Gamer guys. Plus it's HF, so if something goes wrong with it you walk in and they give you a new one, no fuss.

I just don't see the point of cheaping out on something like a torque wrench. The whole point of a torque wrench is to be precise and know the job is done right-something I don't trust to a random torque wrench from Amazon. If I cant trust a torque wrench I'm not going to use it personally.

 

[Jbear]

I really do appreciate all of the thoughtful responses. It totally makes sense that using a sub-standard wrench is defeating the purpose, but I also agree that there are some tasks that are more forgiving and don't require the same precision. For what I need to do it seems that the Pittsburgh will do the trick. I don't imagine lug nuts and power steering pump bolts will mind a little +/-...correct me if I'm wrong though.

 

[fatfillup]

I sell used tools and test every torque wrench I get. Snap on seems to be the ones that test the best but the HF and older Cman normally test well enough. My thinking is its more important to be consistent then to be dead on accurate for most applications. If you are building race motors, buy new and have it calibrated often.

 

[charbar]

I really do appreciate all of the thoughtful responses. It totally makes sense that using a sub-standard wrench is defeating the purpose, but I also agree that there are some tasks that are more forgiving and don't require the same precision. For what I need to do it seems that the Pittsburgh will do the trick. I don't imagine lug nuts and power steering pump bolts will mind a little +/-...correct me if I'm wrong though.

I sell used tools and test every torque wrench I get. Snap on seems to be the ones that test the best but the HF and older Cman normally test well enough. My thinking is its more important to be consistent then to be dead on accurate for most applications. If you are building race motors, buy new and have it calibrated often.

Correct. We don't need to be dead nuts on for a lot of stuff. Your power steering pump isn't going to know the difference if it's torqued to 30 lb ft or 45 lb ft. Thread condition, anything that lubes the fasteners (thread locker, oil, antiseize), cleanliness, etc can all produce a wildly different outcome when it comes to torqueing and the final clamping force.

Something like a head gasket is where you for sure want accuracy, but consistency is arguably more important. A good even clamping force on that head gasket is what we are after.

 

[ChevyEFI]

the basic Pittsburgh torque wrenches from Harbor Freight

A failure: my first 1/2 Pittsburgh was fine for years. Then I left it in my truck 3+ years and it doesn't click. So I suspect the grease wasn't up to hot temps. Maybe a re-lube was the answer but the 2nd for $9.99 is fine and I leave it in the garage

My experience of these in 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 has been good. No, I am not testing or calibrating them. But they have worked, not stripped anything steel into aluminum, and wheels have not flown off.

I didn't own any tq wrenches at home until my 30s and am still not inspired to torque "everything" when assembling.

 

[Beerhippie]

A failure: my first 1/2 Pittsburgh was fine for years. Then I left it in my truck 3+ years and it doesn't click. So I suspect the grease wasn't up to hot temps. Maybe a re-lube was the answer but the 2nd for $9.99 is fine and I leave it in the garage

My experience of these in 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 has been good. No, I am not testing or calibrating them. But they have worked, not stripped anything steel into aluminum, and wheels have not flown off.

I didn't own any tq wrenches at home until my 30s and am still not inspired to torque "everything" when assembling.

I did manage to go for many years--decades even--tightening studs screws and bolts with the ol' Armstrong method without losing a wheel or pulling a stud out of aluminum or even magnesium cases.

But then I got older and decided to check on that ****. Damn--THAT'S 70 ftlb?

 

[Jbear]

I really only want to have these for auto stuff...just rather spend $20 and be close to spec than have to drill out a broken (insert whatever-part-is-toughest-to-reach here).

 

[nadogail]

My flexible beam torque wrench is a Power Craft from Montgomery Ward, I have had it tested a few times. It was always "Good".

 

[tak1313]

I didn't own any tq wrenches at home until my 30s and am still not inspired to torque "everything" when assembling.

I think the "natural" tendency (without anything to measure torque) is to over tighten fasteners anyway, which in the grand scheme of things isn't as bad as under tightening as long as you don't break the bolt or strip the thread.

Even when you watch "pros" work on cars on YT, they just count the ugga-duggas of the impact wrench.

 

[dnschmidt]

Times change. Today you're torqueing things to 10 N-m into plastic on many cars and what isn't plastic (that means you BMW) is aluminum. In the old days you were tightening 3/8" bolts into cast iron. That was a lot more forgiving.

 

[danielbuck]

you will be just fine with cheap torque wrenches. Treat them like they are expensive, and they should last you a very long time.

 

[visionguru]

Would I be a ***** to think that a set like Wett, Suzume or Vevor, or similar Amazon stuff would be adequate?

Forget the click type, go digital! The real time torque display, warning lights, and handle vibrations (optional) will eliminate the chances of snapping a fastener, especially for a DIYer.

I have Snap On Techangles, way more than I need as a DIYer, but those were purchased 5+ years ago when there were not as many choices.

On a budget, I would consider something like the following:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR6VJLB/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Hairich Digital Torque Wrench 3 8 Drive, 5-100FT-LB/0-135N.M, Torque Range Accurate to ±2%,Electric Torque Wrench with Buzzer and LED Flash Notification for Bike/Motorcycle/Auto Repair - Amazon.com

Hairich Digital Torque Wrench 3 8 Drive, 5-100FT-LB/0-135N.M, Torque Range Accurate to ±2%,Electric Torque Wrench with Buzzer and LED Flash Notification for Bike/Motorcycle/Auto Repair - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D95BVQ78/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Treeman]

I really do appreciate all of the thoughtful responses. It totally makes sense that using a sub-standard wrench is defeating the purpose, but I also agree that there are some tasks that are more forgiving and don't require the same precision. For what I need to do it seems that the Pittsburgh will do the trick. I don't imagine lug nuts and power steering pump bolts will mind a little +/-...correct me if I'm wrong though.

Precision is different than accuracy(just stirring the pot). You have not invoked your OCD enough to study the hundreds of torque wrench threads here to find out that the torque wrench process in itself has about +/- 25 accuracy*. So quibbling about a few percent in the wrench itself seems kind of silly. The problem comes when the wrench is way off or malfunctions on a fastener. Use any brand correctly and with proper knowledge of their limitations.

* https://www.engineersedge.com/hardware/bolt_fastener_tightening_methods_review_15832.htm (Table at bottom)