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Triumph c7000 lift changes - bad?

Cargrump

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Joined
Jul 10, 2026
Messages
3
TL;DR- the popular Triumph c7000 two post lift has had a design change and it might be worse- what would you do?

1. Base plate has 5 anchoring bolts instead of 6 (most concerning).
2. Smaller base plate: 18" x 15" -> 17" x 13.5"
3. Base plate reinforcing ribs reduced to 2 rather than 4
4. Top plate seems more like a steel cover rather than a structural piece- threaded tab connections with 3 small bolts instead of flanged connection with 4 through bolts). Half these bolts sheared off in transport. Retapped the tabs (M6x1.0mm) and inserted some new 10.9 bolts
5. No longer has a piston collar around the top of the hydraulic cylinder (least concerning)

Just "took delivery" (almost sweat to death unloading 1100lbs of steel) of a new Triumph c7000 two post lift and I am excited to get to work. However, I noticed some key differences versus the website/YouTube videos. What do y'all think about these differences? Still safe? Should I even care since there are hundreds of other ways this lift could already kill me since I didn't buy a "name brand"/ALI certified lift? (none fit my space other than a MaxJack and that doesn't lift high enough)

Texted with the retailer- he didn't seem aware of the changes but assures me this is the real c7000 and that the lift is "heavily regulated and tested well beyond 7000lbs" (dubious). I talked with a service manager from National Auto Tools ("owns" the Triumph branded lifts in the US). He seemed to not know that the lift design had changed since he was convinced I actually had the old design of the lift. He did eventually say that the new design is just as safe as the old one and is confident that it will perform just like the old design, "A 2017 F150 doesn't look like a 2020 F150 but its still an F150" (ok?). I am guessing these lifts are shipped from China and cross-docked here in the US and National Auto Tools people rarely, if ever, see them. I suggested that they at least update their website for the new lift design.

My plan is to use some Simpson Strong Tie SET-3G epoxy with the Dewalt (Powers) drop in anchors. I looked into the tech sheets for some better drop in anchors that would sit flush (including Wej-It, Simpson, Hilti). The only product that would provide substantially more tension/shear over the supplied sleeves are the Hilti HSL4's and they are $840 for a box of 10!

Old base.jpgNew base less holes.jpegNew base less ribs.jpeg
Old top.jpgNew top plate.jpegNew post top.jpeg
 
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Cargrump

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Jul 10, 2026
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I know bumping your own thread is a bit annoying but I got pushed off the top since it was my first post and had to get approved, which took a bit. Thanks for any help y'all may have
 
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AC-WC

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Jan 22, 2023
Messages
781
Location
NE, Indiana
Hmm-I bought mine 3 yrs ago. I'm not seeing a whole lot of difference. Don't worry about the top plate it's 'thin', I never took mine off. I can recommend buying fender shims from HF to ensure level between the columns. Use an engine hoist to lift it to the pictured level and then have a helper tip it and remove the sling. I wheeled it into the garage on a 2 wheel cart. Other than the helper raising the column I installed by myself.
Epoxy-I got 2 holes filled before the tube solidified :(. I tried to be smart, setup the column and then spray painted the holes for location. Should have made a template BEFORE I raised the column. In hindsight I could have drilled the concrete using the column holes. Blow and vacuum out all the holes before the epoxy. Either rent or buy an SDS hammer drill. A standard pistol style hammer drill will burn up and takes FOREVER to drill.

No issues since installed and it's been a game changer for me. The only quirk is sometimes 1 column will lift slightly higher than the other i.e. the safety locks don't click at the same time. Raise it 1 or 2 clicks then release the pressure onto the locks. Then lift normal again. It's something about the diverter and not a lot you can do with it.
 

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Cargrump

New member
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Jul 10, 2026
Messages
3
The main thing that concerns me is why is 5 bolts ok for anchoring now but the "previous design" needed 6 bolts and a larger base plate? I have a whole box of shims, epoxy (two tubes when i likely solidify one...), trusty Bauer SDS plus hammer drill with a few sized bits up to 1", wire brush and compressed air to clean the holes.

Thanks for the advice! I'll be making my thin plywood drilling template tonight hopefully.

BTW Your previous posts @AC-WC were helpful in my choosing this lift! I plan to do the cathedral style ceiling like you did at some point in the future- may DM you about your specific experiences with that.
 
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