Using 14/3 to wire fan + light

[scanchain]

I am wiring up a new fan/light combo (same unit). To control the fan and light separately, I am planning on using two switches.

I have some excess 14/3 wire lying around, I was wondering if it is to code to use the 14/3 wire -- use the black wire for the fan and red wire for the light?

I have read about multi-wire branch circuit but this is different. Both the fan and light are on the same phase.

 

[Higgins]

Yes, that will work!

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Is this on a new or existing circuit?

What is the amp rating on the breaker protecting the circuit?

If 20a, then you need 12/3...

 

[scanchain]

Is this on a new or existing circuit?

What is the amp rating on the breaker protecting the circuit?

If 20a, then you need 12/3...

Existing circuit. 15A breaker.

 

[Terry D]

That's how you do it

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[TTTTTT]

Many electricians would rough in light s with 14/3 for that reason. Although with remotes for everything and led lighting common less need. If you have it sure use it. Many newer fan/light combinations are integrated and controlled via remote with more complicated electronics.

Sent from my ASUS_Z01HD using Tapatalk

 

[sberry]

I have a system and try to do them all the same when I can. I like to use 2 conductor from switch box to box for power and run 3 conductor to every fixture. Those are usually short runs, the extra cost is moot. I cap off the black hot, switch the red or use one fan/light if that's the case. Leaves a little option for changing the mind or extending from that box.

 

[sberry]

Had one recently where the carpenter ran the wire, 2 cond, stapled it in, drywall ed it. I said,,, I don't do that but it's up to you. Sure as shat,, later change the mind and wants a fan. Light now has to be on and fan ran with a pull chain.
They did something similar before I was hired and needed 3 way, Never occurs to them it needs wire. Lucky I figured out it was ran somewhat direct with big enough holes and I tie a 3 conductor and 2 for power to the original power wire and pull 2 new wires in it. Doing remodels a guy never knows, I try to leave a rear door if I can help it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

For current code (or the next one), wouldn't 14/4 be required for the "hot at all times"
lead ?

Segue - what is the color code on 14/4 ? Black, white, red and blue ?

 

[exranger06]

For current code (or the next one), wouldn't 14/4 be required for the "hot at all times"
lead ?

Segue - what is the color code on 14/4 ? Black, white, red and blue ?

Code requires that there's a neutral wire present in the switch box. If the feed goes into the switch box first, then to the fixture, then you only need 14/3: 2 switched hots and a neutral.

If the feed goes into the fixture first, then onto the switch box, then yes, you'd need 14/2/2, AKA 14/4.

I've heard of 14/4 that has black, white, red and blue conductors, but I've never actually seen it. The more common wire is called 14/2/2, which has black, white, red, and a red and white striped conductor. The red and white striped conductor is assumed to be a neutral, unless it's wrapped in black tape to re-identify it, same as a white conductor.

 

[Max]

I have a system and try to do them all the same when I can. I like to use 2 conductor from switch box to box for power and run 3 conductor to every fixture. Those are usually short runs, the extra cost is moot. I cap off the black hot, switch the red or use one fan/light if that's the case. Leaves a little option for changing the mind or extending from that box.

That is a great approach. I wish my house had been wired that way.

- Max

 

[theoldwizard1]

Code requires that there's a neutral wire present in the switch box. If the feed goes into the switch box first, then to the fixture, then you only need 14/3: 2 switched hots and a neutral.

IANAE, but that does not make sense !

The "purpose" of the code change was to insure all boxes had a "hot at all times" and a neutral to "future proof" for a device could always be active (wireless receiver), either in the switch box or the "load" box.

Assuming the feed goes to the double switch box first (light and fan), 2 switched hots does not solve that issue at the load end.

 

[exranger06]

IANAE, but that does not make sense !

The "purpose" of the code change was to insure all boxes had a "hot at all times" and a neutral to "future proof" for a device could always be active (wireless receiver), either in the switch box or the "load" box.

Assuming the feed goes to the double switch box first (light and fan), 2 switched hots does not solve that issue at the load end.

The purpose of the code change is for smart switches that need constant hot and neutral. The code does not require a constant hot at the load.