Walkout Basement Cover Door

[bugnut]

All our home has a walkout basement. At the bottom there is a landing which contains a drain which is connected to the perimeter drain around the home. The leaves and debris fill the stairwell and it becomes moss covered between uses. I have done some searching and found a design for a style I would prefer as show in the image. I saw a similar build on TOH. Anyone done one in this style. Anything I should be aware of or asking the fabricator. I'm thinking I would like to have a stainless steel cap with a male protrusion along the top of the block. Then a lift top that has a female slot that straddles the male. Thinking that should keep most anything out. Images below what am I missing...... Thanks

 

[larry4406]

Interesting project.

Got nothing except I would install a hand rail.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I would suggest a good way to secure so during a wind storm, it doesn't wind underneath, an uplift completely destroying it.

 

[larry4406]

I would suggest a good way to secure so during a wind storm, it doesn't wind underneath, an uplift completely destroying it.

I think this is a very smart observant concern.

The Bilco basement bulkhead doors Dan referenced look stout - storm shelter stout even.

We have stupid issues at the day job where the wind blows around a house and similar to an airfoil, one side is momentarily low pressure. When this happens, all the HVAC vent wall cap flappers on that side open as house pressure is momentarily higher. Then the wind abruptly changes, flapper slams closed, and this violently repeats as the wind goes nuts. Customers are wigged out with the repetitive flapper noise and are convinced there is a house defect and cannot believe that the same thing that makes airplanes fly could possibly be the cause of the flapper noise. We were just taken to arbitration over this and customer lost.

Wonder if the Bilco doors or others have air vents to lessen the pressure gradient and uplift possibility?

 

[NUTTSGT]

I would have suggested a Bilco unit but it might get pricey for the unit if it's 10-12' long.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I think you are on the right track. At the top of the steps, it might be good to have the approach area slightly lower than the top step/landing and have the vertical door part go below that level down to the level of the approach area and make sure that area is properly drained.