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Warn Pullzall Modification

finley31

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2011
Messages
117
Location
Huntington, WV
I'm going to be going on a job next week that will require us to hang some beam clamps, trolleys, and air hoists from some structural beams about 23' up. The access in this room is very limited and the only way up is an extension ladder. In the past we have used a block and tackle system, but it requires quite a bit of rope and gets tangled alot, so I started looking for alternatives. I came across the Warn Pullzall and it seemed like a decent solution. It was lightweight and had plenty of power for our needs, but lacked in lifting/pulling length. I had two of them shipped to our shop with intentions of making them work somehow. I thought I would share my modification with everyone here since it was tool related.

The thing thing did was hook it up and test it out to see what kind of length it actually had to begin with and how stout it was. It is advertised as having 15' of pulling capacity, but at 13-1/2' I hit the red warning section of the cable which indicates the safe end of your stroke. After that I diassembled the unit to see what I had to work with.

GdZX3l.jpg


Next, I removed the oem cable. The quality of the drum was quite disapointing. You can see parts of it flaking off in this picture.

Oj8VBl.jpg


Then I drilled and tapped a 10-24 hole in the drum to attach my new synthetic winch line. I ordered a Rugged Ridge 3/16" x 50' winch line (P/N 15102.30) from Amazon for $59. I removed the rear sheath from the line and most of the front one as well to allow more room for line on the drum.

btngsl.jpg


Here is all 50' of line spooled up not so neatly on the drum. I can get all but about the last 8" of line onto the unit. A 40' line would be more ideal, but the 50' was all I could get on such short notice.

fIGs1l.jpg



The fairlead bolts were longer than they needed to be on the stock unit so I swapped in some shorter bolts and square nuts to ensure the line wouldnt be rubbing or getting snagged on anything.

If8hfl.jpg


Next came the test. This unit is rated at 1000lbs for 1 minute. We put a tow motor in neutral about 35' away and hooked it up to the pullzall. It pulled about 10' before the unit got hot and we decided to quit the test. We won't be lifting anything over 70 lbs with it, but we just wanted to get an idea of its capabilities.

XAED2l.jpg



Overall, it's an ok unit I guess. It definitely did not seem to be on par with most of their winches, but for light duty stuff it will probably be ok. I do like that it has a variable speed trigger, but it has alot of drift coming down from the highest speed so you have to be careful about getting close to the hook when your retrieving it. I am now also considering making a new fairlead with a teflon or aluminum guide to accomodate the synthetic line.
 
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platform389

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2011
Messages
107
It pulled about 10' before the unit got hot and we decided to quit the test. We won't be lifting anything over 70 lbs with it, but we just wanted to get an idea of its capabilities.

WARNING! Swapping synthetic cable for steel can end in disaster! Most winches use the drum as a heat sink and that can weaken the first layer of synthetic rope. If that drum is chewed up by the steel cable, it can also damage your new cable.

https://jeepjamboreeusa.com/3-hidden-dangers-in-switching-your-winch-to-synthetic-rope/

Contact Warn at 1.800.543.9276 to ask about your application. They are very helpful.
 

2oolhound

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
5,918
Location
BC Canada
Looks like a good purpose built set up but you should maybe write on the unit with a paint pen or spray stencil something about a new strength rating.

Steel cables come in a multitude of varieties. Winch cable is made with 2 primary characteristics - flexibility and abrasion tolerance. Wire rope is made of 7 individual strands. Each strand is made of many individual wires that are preformed into a distinct pigtail curled shape. Flexibility is garnered buy using preformed internal wires with an extra heavy pigtail curl in their makeup. Abrasion tolerance is obtained by using thicker wire on the outside of each strand. Thick wire will take gouges and cuts without severing like the thin wire would. Severed wires is what weakens cables beyond safe use.

To protect your synthetic rope from abrasion you could polish the fairlead or use a roller fairlead and always try to limit the degree of defection of the pull.
 

kgorman

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2006
Messages
176
Location
Austin, TX
We did the same thing years ago. We needed a longer rope for pulling race cars into our trailer. We had customsplice build us a 50' rope. It has been flawless for years. This mod makes the pullzall an amazing tool.
 
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Iron-Iceberg

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2006
Messages
887
Location
A-town
Lifting 23' overhead with a modified winch on a jobsite? I'm not a safety czar or anything, but this might not be all that great of an idea.
Any failure would be a OSHA, legal, injury mess.
Just my .02
 

Darter

New member
Joined
Nov 28, 2017
Messages
2
I realize this is an old thread, but am hoping you who have done this mod have any long term feedback or tips? I'd like to set my pullzall up with a 50 foot line for pulling only. Any issues with heat damaging the rope? How did the Rugged rope hold up?

Which rope from Custom Splice was used?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
 

Darter

New member
Joined
Nov 28, 2017
Messages
2
CS has a kit for this and a youtube video on installing it.
Thanks. I checked them out and it looks like a pretty straightforward process. I almost bought their conversion kit but noticed it's for the same 15 foot length. When I inquired about a longer line, they only offered 20 feet as a custom option.

I'm thinking of trying their aluminum fairlead along with the 3/16 x 50 foot. I'm only using it to pull a 500lb boat lift up out of the water over a sea wall, so I don't think this will be a very stressful application. The original cable will be kept for other duties.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
 

Ign

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
12,769
Location
Butte Peak ND
I missed this the first time around.

Good info! I’m glad it was resurrected.

I also have a Pullzall purchased used on CL. I wanted it just in case to pull dead vehicles between my lift columns but so far I always just push them in w the tractor.

If you’re working w employees then worry about the heat sink blah blah. Me, I’ve got far more real things to worry about.
 
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