I'm adding an additional 2 car garage that is attached to my current 2 car garage. I'm trying to run a water line in to the new garage so I can wash my car in the new garage. The water line will need to be run from my home and then around the current garage and into the new garage. My contractor is recommending I run the lines exposed on the inside of the garage wall. He thinks this gives it less chance to freeze and exposes any leaks if any before they cause a problem. My new garage will have a heater but my current garage does not. I really don't think i'll like the look of having the water line visible. How have other people done it? Is it behind the sheetrock?
Water Lines
- Thread starter jw3571
- Start date
Fueler
Well-known member
Been there. Leave it exposed. You won't notice it after a week.
Update GJ Profile with your City / State / Country.
Lots of difference in "freezing chance" of Florida versus Canada !!
Best setup would be bury all lines between buildings below frost line and come up inside garage to warm space that would always be kept warm. Isolate the sections in garage that might have chance of freezing and have blow-out ports inline so you could winterize just like you do sprinkler system by blowing out with compressed air.
Lots of difference in "freezing chance" of Florida versus Canada !!
Best setup would be bury all lines between buildings below frost line and come up inside garage to warm space that would always be kept warm. Isolate the sections in garage that might have chance of freezing and have blow-out ports inline so you could winterize just like you do sprinkler system by blowing out with compressed air.
Cyberbear
Well-known member
Where I live we have freezing temps and pipes can freeze, but we also use foam insulating sheathing that is put over/ around the pipe. There is also an inexpensive electrical pipe heating cord that cycles on and off when it gets below freezing. I've used these solutions with perfect results. Worth looking into.
fourjeepin
Well-known member
I would bury it. If where you live is cold enough to need to wash a car indoors, it is cold enough in an unseated garage to freeze a water line. Not to mention the aesthetics.
K'ledgeBldr
Well-known member
Buried for sure.
And your contractor sounds lazy.
And your contractor sounds lazy.
Sorry, I live in Utah where it can get really cold. Burying it in the ground won't be an option as it would have to go through concrete. It would have to go behind the wall or outside of the wall. I'll look into the foam insulating sheathing or electrical pipe heating.
K'ledgeBldr
Well-known member
Explain "go through concrete".
I can assure you if there's will, there's a way. Putting a waterline "on" a wall may "reduce" the chance of freezing, but it also exposes it to potential damage. Besides, either way there's going to be additional damage from the water.
I can assure you if there's will, there's a way. Putting a waterline "on" a wall may "reduce" the chance of freezing, but it also exposes it to potential damage. Besides, either way there's going to be additional damage from the water.
Post up PICS of house and potential path to bury the water line between house and garage.
You can go UNDER the concrete !!! Every day utility companies like AT&T, Verizon, etc. use Ditch Witch or Vermeer boring machine and perform horizontal bores under streets, under creeks, etc. to route conduit carrying fiber optic lines. Heck your local sprinkler company likely has Ditch Witch that could bore your water line under concrete - - - - piece of cake to accomplish.
+1 that your contractor is a bone-head limiting your options. Look out to the real world and see all the possibilities.
TOMORROW . . . Make some phone calls to sprinkler installation companies hungry for work in wintertime as I'm guessing they'd be happy to make you a deal !!
You can go UNDER the concrete !!! Every day utility companies like AT&T, Verizon, etc. use Ditch Witch or Vermeer boring machine and perform horizontal bores under streets, under creeks, etc. to route conduit carrying fiber optic lines. Heck your local sprinkler company likely has Ditch Witch that could bore your water line under concrete - - - - piece of cake to accomplish.
+1 that your contractor is a bone-head limiting your options. Look out to the real world and see all the possibilities.
TOMORROW . . . Make some phone calls to sprinkler installation companies hungry for work in wintertime as I'm guessing they'd be happy to make you a deal !!
I am almost done with the outside of a 30 x 35. The inside will all be 5/8 plywood and the ONLY think between the studs will be insulation. I have 6" x 6" raceway for all the electrical that will run around three sides and off the strut hanger for that will carry my cold, hot, hot return, compressed air and any thing else. Run everything exposed so of you need to maintain or just move it there is no problem.
Run it indoors, inside the existing wall.
(Not inside the wall. Exposed on the inner surface of the wall.)
Cold water only.
Get a small(10 gal) electric water heater for the far end.)
Even an unheated attached garage will stay wamer than the outdoors for a long time.
For peace of mind I would run some heat tape along it so you can plug it in when you think you need it.
(Not inside the wall. Exposed on the inner surface of the wall.)
Cold water only.
Get a small(10 gal) electric water heater for the far end.)
Even an unheated attached garage will stay wamer than the outdoors for a long time.
For peace of mind I would run some heat tape along it so you can plug it in when you think you need it.
sierradmax
Well-known member
On a past project, I ran raychem heat trace with an ETI SST-2 freeze protection controller along an insulated water line. Whenever exterior temps dropped below 40 degF, the controller heated the water line.
joe_padavano
Well-known member
Not knowing the exact layout and constraints, all I can say is that this sounds waaaaay more complex than it needs to be. We've got a farm and I've run LOTS of water lines to various barns and horse fields. I simply use 1" buried plastic well pipe and frost-free hydrants - no heat tape, no complexity. No problems whatsoever after 15 years. I'm in Northern VA, near Harper's Ferry, so we get three months or so of freezing weather every winter. I've got a hydrant next to the garage, as well as one next to my shop in addition to those for the horses.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Not knowing the exact layout and constraints, all I can say is that this sounds waaaaay more complex than it needs to be. We've got a farm and I've run LOTS of water lines to various barns and horse fields. I simply use 1" buried plastic well pipe and frost-free hydrants - no heat tape, no complexity. No problems whatsoever after 15 years. I'm in Northern VA, near Harper's Ferry, so we get three months or so of freezing weather every winter. I've got a hydrant next to the garage, as well as one next to my shop in addition to those for the horses.
These things are great, but get a good one. I have three Simmons Brand, made right here in Georgia, they are ****,already had to replace one. The Iowa is very similar design with the rubber plug seal in the bottom.
While I haven't used one, I intend on buying a Baker Monitor Magnum no freeze hydrant, very different design inside, with a PVC liner and sliding valve with o-rings on it.
Be aware if you have a water table near the surface, that ground water can make its way into the hydrant when shut off, then you get a burst of ground water when you turn it on. Don't use for RV's or potable water unless you have a underground collection tank and siphon setup to empty the tank.
Charles