What's going on here? Light goes out??

[expatriated]

In my master bathroom, I have recessed lighting, one switch controls two bulbs. If I turn them on, they will burn for 15-20 minutes and then one or both of the bulbs will click and go out. Given enough time, they will come back on.

It doesn't appear to be a short, more like when they get hot, they trip something and go off. Is this possible? They are standard, 60w bulbs. Nothing has to be reset for them to come back on, they will come on themselves, given enough time and the fact that the switch is still on.


1. What is going on here?

2. What do I do to fix it?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Tscott]

Sound to me like they have a built in thermal high limit switch. This is nothing more than a small switch that senses temperature via a small metal diaphragm. When heated the diaphragm expands and switches the circuit open. Then as the housing cools the diaphragm returns to its normal size and the circuit closes. You may want to get up into the attic and check the cans. I know they sell cans rated to be placed in insulation and ones that have a minimum clearance to insulation. I am thinking that perhaps the can is getting too hot due to being surrounded by insulation. If this is the case make sure to give them the proper clearance or you could start a fire. Also make sure they are rated for the wattage of bulb you are using.

Tom

 

[Piper]

yep, thermal protection. I'd be checking max wattage as suggested. This is common w pot lights.

P

 

[mrb]

sounds like non IC rated cans that are covered by insulation

 

[Aceman]

sounds like non IC rated cans that are covered by insulation

Yep, it sounds like somebody didn't read the instructions when they installed them.

 

[VHF]

Non-IC rated can lights installed where the body of the can is in unheated attic space are a terrible source of heat loss. Lots of warm moist air will migrate from heated space up into the attic thru these fixtuers.

One solution is to build a box around the fixture in the attic out of pieces of drywall. Make sure to seal the edges well (foil tape, caulking, mastic, expanding foam, etc.) You can then insulate around and over the box, which will keep insulation from comming into contact with the fixture can.

 

[expatriated]

Thanks, guys. I'm planning on getting up in the attic tonight and see what's going on.

So that I understand correctly, I can: a.) install IC rated cans or b.) ensure that the insulation is away from the can?

 

[Piper]

for some reason the can is heating up. Too high a wattage bulb or insulation touching the can so that it can't cool down are the 2 main reasons. If the ceiling is insulated it wouldn't be a good idea to move the insulation away from the can though or you'd have a lot of heat loss, moisture problems as pointed out earlier. You don't mention where you are geographically but suffice to say if there is insulation in your ceiling you want the room warm and the attic space cold. If the pots aren't right, get the proper ones. Building a box around them and insulating etc would be second best but I'd hate for a fire only to have the inspector say "wrong lights - not to code - no insurance coverage". I know of 1 case where a backup generator wasn't installed to code, fire, zero coverage by ins.

P

 

[expatriated]

This is frustrating! I got up in the attic. Yes, the can was completely covered with insulation (I had to dig around to find the darn thing). The can says, "Capri Lighting PE7959CX" and "IC".

I can't find that model number on Capri's site but found one that looks EXACTLY like what I have. The one listed on the website similar to mine is IC plus something called Air Rated. It's also rated for 75w bulb and I have a 60 in mine now.

I guess it's possible I have an older model rated to LESS than 60w???? The can clearly is marked "IC" very prominently on the top.

I'm stumped--any suggestions?

 

[ranger_dood]

With the insulation removed, do they still shut off?

Try some CFL's?

 

[tfi racing]

Exactly what style of bulb is being used?If its not the proper reflector bulb it will overheat and shut it down.It sounds like the fixture and application are correct,you just need to get the right bulbs.Stay away from CFL's in your pot lights,the technology is not quite perfected yet,I've heard they may have a short lifespan in pot lights.

 

[expatriated]

I went over the cans thoroughly again and found on one, the label was still intact showing that it was rated to 75W using an R30 bulb but for the A19 bulb, it was only rated for 40. I put 40's in there and no problem.

On the first can, the only thing visible was "75W" so I incorrectly assumed that wattage for the type of bulb.

Thank you all for your help. You were spot on.

 

[Tscott]

Glad you got it figured out.

Tom

 

[Tylerb43]

BTW - I use CFL's in my can lights with no problems at all. They make them in the R30 configuration now, only burn 13 watts each and put out light equivalent to a 65W incandescent. They take a few seconds to get to full brightness, but it's a small price to pay for the energy I'm saving. - I also use them in my outdoor eave lights. (outdoor rated) My brother is always climbing a ladder to replace his standard eave lights, I haven't replaced one yet, very happy with them. Oh - and they burn much cooler.