Which method to smooth and seal concrete?

[LSVLance]

I am currently building a new shop along with a new house with 3 car garage. I had no control over the flatwork process so could not spec a power trowel finish or no sealing...and frankly am not sure what they put down as a sealer if anything at all. We are in Phoenix so water, salt, and whatnot will be a minimum but I will use the shop as a working shop with a lot of suspension and general car repair as well as light fabrication work to be done inside.

I have decided to not put an epoxy coating down and my main concern with sealing the concrete is about 80% easy to keep clean and 20% for looks. I'd like a shop floor that I can use a dust mop to sweep up most debris with and hit with pressure washer once or twice a year for a deep clean. There will be paver driveways in front of both garages so take that into concern if thinking about etching with acid.

I plan on hiring this job out as I'll have my hands full with other jobs and need to get the floor done first thing after closing before moving in.

Below are the specs I got from one proposal detailing two separate procedures. I'm curious of the groups thoughts on each vs the other? It is not so much about saving money as I had already budgeted for a nice epoxy floor install. It is more about which type of process will I enjoy more 1, 3 or 7 years down the road with the way I'll use and take care of the floors.


Area: 1,500 sq. ft. RV garage


Scope of Work – Polish
-perform 30 grit diamond grind in order to expose salt and pepper aggregate
-patch minor cracks, joints and spalls using a cementitious repair mortar
-perform 80 grit finish grind
-run 150 grit transitional tooling
-hone concrete with 200 grit diamond impregnated resins
-apply clear penetrating sealer system
-polish concrete with 400 grit diamond impregnated resins
-polish concrete with 800 grit diamond impregnated resins bringing concrete high shine

-NOTES: Entire area is to be done in one mobilization taking 3-4 days during normal, daytime, weekday hours. Entire area is to be free and clear of all equipment, material, debris and other trades. Proper lighting, 110v/20 amp power, 208v/50amp/3-phase power, water and access is to be provided by others.

Price: $3.75 per sq. ft.



Option – Grind and Seal
-perform 30 grit diamond grind in order to expose salt and pepper aggregate
-patch minor cracks, joints and spalls using a cementitious repair mortar
-perform 80 grit finish grind
-apply clear solvent-based acrylic sealer
-NOTES: Entire area is to be done in one mobilization taking 3-4 days during normal, daytime, weekday hours. Entire area is to be free and clear of all equipment, material, debris and other trades. Proper lighting, 110v/20 amp power, 208v/50amp/3-phase power, water and access is to be provided by others.

Price: $2.30 per sq. ft.

Here are a few pictures of the floor in its current state.

 

[Fyrme]

I just put a clear penetrating sealer down on my slab after grinding with 80grit and 150 grit. With 150gr it is super smooth, and slick when wet. I can't imagine why you would want 200 much less 400gr. That's over kill in my opinion.

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[Armorpoxy]

One comment to above is that neither polishing or an acrylic sealer are very resistant to auto fluids, solvents, fuels, etc. We don't recommend polishing or grind/seal generally for garages, but since you are in AZ and there is no road salt it may work out ok if you dont have fluids, oils and such hitting the floor.

You could save money by having them grind to a #80, and use a single coat of SPGX and get the same look at much less money.

 

[LSVLance]

Thanks...I like that idea, I've asked the installer if they can do that and at what cost.

 

[Shea]

ArmorPoxy is correct about the polishing as well as the acrylic sealer. Neither will do well in an automotive environment.