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Which table saw question

Citation

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Soon I'm going to be doing some minor carpentry work on my house. For this job I'm going to need to rip some 2x10s to size. I figured this is a good excuse to buy a table saw. For space reasons I need to consider something that can be folded up/put away. This is also a tool that will get used rarely so I'm not worried about getting the most robust or best featured. It's quite possible I won't use this saw for several years after doing this job. In short, it's cheaper to buy the saw and do the job than to hire it out. This also means I can accept low end stuff.

With that, what features should I look for, what should I avoid etc? Based on looking on line I think I would like to keep this under $300 and under $200 seems like it should be possible.
 
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theoldwizard1

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You should be able to find a decent "contractors" table saw (i.e. no/removable legs) with a 10" blade for $100-$150. Ones with collapsible/folding legs will cost a lot more.

I got a crappy little 8" Delta from a widow lady for FREE for helping with a couple of minor things. Couple minutes of my time.
 

OCJohn

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I'd want a good blade and a long fence – as found on a "real" contractor's saw. Ripping 10' lengths of wet lumber on one of those little portable saws sounds like a bag full of hurt, to me.
 

ItsNemo

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I'd want a good blade and a long fence – as found on a "real" contractor's saw. Ripping 10' lengths of wet lumber on one of those little portable saws sounds like a bag full of hurt, to me.
I have a Dewalt DW745 and have no problems ripping full length dimensional lumber on it...cuts clean and smooth without trouble. I think the latest models have a 24" fence (mine is the second revision with 20" fence, the first rev was 16") which is at least wide enough to handle most cuts. About the only thing you can't do is feed an entire sheet of plywood through it, just too awkward to handle with such a small deck. I'll rip things down with the circular saw from a big sheet and do the final/precision cuts on the table saw.

So obviously my recommendation is the Dewalt one, they're just about in your budget and a quality tool. You might only have this one job for it, but I'm sure once you have it you'll use it more than you expected.
 
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Citation

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Thanks for the suggestions all! I think the circular saw plus long straight edge might be the best plan. I like the idea of a table saw but it's probably not the best time to get one. I certainly would appreciate better than the bottom but paying for it is another mater. As an example, I have a DeWalt power miter saw. For what ever strange reason Sears had it marked as used (the box was sealed and the blade paint was perfect) and thus $80 vs $220. I knew I would be adding a deck to my house and was planning on getting a cheap miter saw for the job. Well I was quite happy with the better saw. Not sure it mattered in the finial product but I sure like it better. I was thinking about something like the Dewalt for that exact reason. Still, if I can do it once with $20 vs $300 worth of new tools perhaps that is the way to go.
 

woody 73

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Citation

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Woody,

Thanks for those. I'm in Nashville, TN but I'm going to be moving very soon. A full size saw like that is something I just don't have space for. Happily when I get to Indy my father has a table saw for any big projects I might work on.
 

cgrutt

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Not sure what you are building but you might want to consider a tabletop bandsaw as well. Arguably safer than a tablesaw (down cut eliminates kickback), you can cut tapers in your 2x10s if needed (I know you can cut them on a table saw too, but it's easier and safer on a bandsaw) and you can resaw thinner boards if you need it. Only issue is I'm not sure how good these small bandsaws in your price range are. Just throwing it out there as another option.
 

Casey69

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BikerDad

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Grizzly Track Saw Kit with a second 55" rail. Barely over $300, takes up almost no space, needs little more space than the length of the workpiece for cutting, etc. You may be able to get a reconditioned Makita or DeWalt tracksaw for not too much more.
 

rharman

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I like the Bosch with the gravity rise stand. A bit beyond your budget though.
Take a look at the Bosch or the Dewalt 10". Amazon or Home Depot.
 

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KenC

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2x lumber is rarely really straight. So a straight edge rip guide won't yield a truly straight board. The side you cut will be, but not the original.

A rip guide on a circular saw is best. The guide will follow the edge and yield a consistent width result, jut as bowed as the original! But the goal is to cut a 2xwhatever from the 2x10 that is the correct width throughout.

Bowed boards are really difficult to rip on a table saw as they tend to pinch the blade as the bow passes the center of the fence.

circular saw works best for me for normal construction.

If you're talking cabinets or furniture, totally different discussion.
 

bmwpowere36m3

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Just curious why you need to rip full length 2x10s? I'd just use a circular saw with a fence. For rough construction within 1/4" your fine. Most dimensional lumber isn't "that" straight to begin with.

Besides, ripping long 2xs on a small table saw ***** by yourself...
 

Ole Slewfoot

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Here there is usually a $50-100 old Craftsman table saw on Craigslist. they almost always work, and are worth just as much when you are done. IMO they stack up OK against the newer offering except for folding up to put in a truck.
 

ItsNemo

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Just curious why you need to rip full length 2x10s? I'd just use a circular saw with a fence. For rough construction within 1/4" your fine. Most dimensional lumber isn't "that" straight to begin with.

Besides, ripping long 2xs on a small table saw ***** by yourself...
Good grief, I couldn't imagine building anything out of dimensional lumber and being okay with a 1/4" of tolerance. I can usually do within 1/16th without trying too hard.
 
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