Wood Fascia Patch Question

[16again]

Have 3 small places that I need to remove some rot from a PINE fascia board. I cut out the rot, cut a patch piece. I'm debating screwing and gluing versus just gluing and clamping it.

Pictures show the fascia, exterior wood glue, wood epoxy patch and the piece I cut for the patch. I really don't want to screw up through the bottom of the patch. Way to damp, humid here in south Florida, I would expect the screw holes even filled might be a draw to rot it again.

Which finally gets me to my question.
It's just a fascia board; can I get away with the wood glue and clamps until it sets?
I'll then use the epoxy wood repair/filler and paint it.
Or do I have to use a couple screws as well?

Thanks
Bob

 

[whateg01]

You do you, but I would have to have a very compelling reason not to replace the whole fascia board

 

[duneslider]

I didn't think titebond 2 was waterproof, I am almost certain I have had exterior stuff come unglued with TB2? I would probably step up to TB3. Glued and clamped will hold. If you are using glue nails or screws are just clamping it until the glue sets anyway.

 

[Copymutt]

Just replaced all my facia with synthetic. Getting to old to deal with short life of wood & its constant maintenance.

 

[whateg01]

Just replaced all my facia with synthetic. Getting to old to deal with short life of wood & its constant maintenance.

I have thought of using fake wood decking for things like this. Is pretty heavy though. PVC is expensive. What did you use?

 

[Copymutt]

Smart Side makes an embossed product that matches their siding. Basically OSB, but it holds paint well, doesn't rot or split. Special order from Home Despot. Pre primed.

 

[PCustoms]

You do you, but I would have to have a very compelling reason not to replace the whole fascia board

Agreed.

Everything in the OP pic looks to have some level of rot.

Ignoring that, I don't see how the OP would clamp that in place. As crooked as that cut is the scab price is going to wiggle. A couple screws and slather the mess in expoxy filler.

 

[16again]

Agreed.

Everything in the OP pic looks to have some level of rot.

Ignoring that, I don't see how the OP would clamp that in place. As crooked as that cut is the scab price is going to wiggle. A couple screws and slather the mess in expoxy filler.

The cut is straight. 1 3/4" by 12". No rot there, it's stucco soffit that you see where I removed the caulking. Clamping is the easy part. Might run 2 screws straight up with the glue and hope for the best. Once the epoxy hardens, I'll sand and paint it.
As for not replacing the boards. Rot is in 3 places over approximately 60' run. Other 2 areas are very small, 4" each. At the moment, not able to rip it all down for replacement with PVC.

 

[16again]

I have thought of using fake wood decking for things like this. Is pretty heavy though. PVC is expensive. What did you use?

Home Depot has PVC (synthetic) fascia board that you can buy. I'm pretty sure most of the big box places have it.

 

[whateg01]

The cut is straight. 1 3/4" by 12". No rot there, it's stucco soffit that you see where I removed the caulking. Clamping is the easy part. Might run 2 screws straight up with the glue and hope for the best. Once the epoxy hardens, I'll sand and paint it.
As for not replacing the boards. Rot is in 3 places over approximately 60' run. Other 2 areas are very small, 4" each. At the moment, not able to rip it all down for replacement with PVC.

3 places in 60'? It's not a single 60' length of one by.

 

[16again]

3 places in 60'? It's not a single 60' length of one by.

No, it's multiple 10' lengths. Rotted spots are in 3 of the 10' sections, within a foot or so of where each is **** joined together.

 

[Burt Shaver]

I find it difficult to see exactly what is going on, it looks like there is soffit and fascia above the rotten pine board? Cutting out rotten pieces of a board and gluing in new pieces is pretty unorthodox. How difficult would it be to replace the entire board? Would probably be more cost effective and time efficient in the long run to replace each rotten board then doing what your doing

 

[whateg01]

I have thought of using fake wood decking for things like this. Is pretty heavy though. PVC is expensive. What did you use?

Home Depot has PVC (synthetic) fascia board that you can buy. I'm pretty sure most of the big box places have it.

I'm well aware of the existence of PVC. I even mentioned it. It's also expensive.

No, it's multiple 10' lengths. Rotted spots are in 3 of the 10' sections, within a foot or so of where each is **** joined together.

If you aren't going to replace a whole board, at least cut all the way from top to bottom and replace the whole end of it.

 

[Skiff Builder]

Make an adjustment to the cutout/patch.
Glue/caulk your patch piece in , it will hold itself

 

[16again]

I'm well aware of the existence of PVC. I even mentioned it. It's also expensive.

If you aren't going to replace a whole board, at least cut all the way from top to bottom and replace the whole end of it.

I think you're onto something there. Honestly, never crossed my mind. Probably easier and a better (albeit not perfect) repair.
When I eventually change the facia on the whole house it will be PVC. Front of house is already PVC, only need to change out 2 sides and back. $30.00 per 8' 1x6 PVC.

 

[Hank11]

I think you're onto something there. Honestly, never crossed my mind. Probably easier and a better (albeit not perfect) repair.
When I eventually change the facia on the whole house it will be PVC. Front of house is already PVC, only need to change out 2 sides and back. $30.00 per 8' 1x6 PVC.

Yes, this. When you do it, be sure to paint and prime all surfaces of the new board and any cuts to the old. You might even slip a little piece of flashing behind the joints. caulk well and paint —- it’ll be great.

 

[larry4406]

I think you're onto something there. Honestly, never crossed my mind. Probably easier and a better (albeit not perfect) repair.
When I eventually change the facia on the whole house it will be PVC. Front of house is already PVC, only need to change out 2 sides and back. $30.00 per 8' 1x6 PVC.

Bear in mind that PVC expands and contracts significantly!

We used it on our new build homes for a few years but encountered expansion issues. We then changed to cementitious products like Boral and Hardy.

Expansion presents itself as
- joints opening
- corners separating
- wavy buckled trim

If you decide to still use PVC, make sure the joints are properly glued with the recommended cement and only paint it light colors. Dark colors worsen the expansion.

 

[captain14]

When a piece of my fascia broke away and the gutters were hung, the contractor just cut off the damaged section and added a piece of Aztec or similar product. Granted it was on the end of the run and he just fastened it to the top of the wall.

He used his oscillating tool and marking a straight line with his speed square.

24” inches I won’t have to scrape and paint next painting cycle while climbing a ladder.