wood floor?
- Thread starter xl1200s
- Start date
I guess the first question would be: why are you building a shop with wood floors if you do a lot of welding?
the city i live in requires permits to pour slab so shed style it is.
it will be 588 sqft.
besides im not a doctor or some **** and cant afford a $50000 shop.
unless you want to pay for it dont be a critic.
offer up advise that will help with my circumstances or dont post.
(ill do the same)(its called respect)
it will be 588 sqft.
besides im not a doctor or some **** and cant afford a $50000 shop.
unless you want to pay for it dont be a critic.
offer up advise that will help with my circumstances or dont post.
(ill do the same)(its called respect)
Bender78
Well-known member
besides im not a doctor or some **** and cant afford a $50000 shop.
unless you want to pay for it dont be a critic.
offer up advise that will help with my circumstances or dont post.
(ill do the same)(its called respect)
Easy there hotshot.
You will find in time that there are a number of people here who will always give you good advice, and the moderator you just called out is one of them.I’m one of the few who prefers to work on a wooden floor over concrete; my shop is a timber framed barn although the area where I weld is the portion with a concrete floor. If I were you, I would put down something like Hardy Board or a cement tile backer board in the area where you will be welding, and **** the seams up tight. I’d also invest in a couple of really good fire extinguishers.
Welcome to the Garage Journal.
kywildcat
Well-known member
the city i live in requires permits to pour slab so shed style it is.
it will be 588 sqft.
besides im not a doctor or some **** and cant afford a $50000 shop.
unless you want to pay for it dont be a critic.
offer up advise that will help with my circumstances or dont post.
(ill do the same)(its called respect)
Wow......nice way to come in here and make friends!!!!
Thanks for the compliment, xl1200s.
I didn't have $50,000 either. (My budget was right around $2,500.)
I wonder if there's a coating for wood that would make it less flammable? Maybe some of the epoxy coating guys will offer a suggestion.
Is cork fire-resistant enough? Are there linoleum type floor coverings that resist fire?
I covered the plywood around one of my welding tables with aluminum flashing. It's pretty inexpensive ($30 for 100 square feet for .008 thick, about $60 for the same amount of .014 thick), but it comes in 24" wide rolls, which would mean you'd need a good way to adhere it that wouldn't allow it to be kicked up by a boot.
So, that's a probably bad idea. But it at least means the material might be available in wider sections. It might be worth looking into whether there's an industrial use for cheap sheet aluminum that could be repurposed for your floor.
I didn't have $50,000 either. (My budget was right around $2,500.)
I wonder if there's a coating for wood that would make it less flammable? Maybe some of the epoxy coating guys will offer a suggestion.
Is cork fire-resistant enough? Are there linoleum type floor coverings that resist fire?
I covered the plywood around one of my welding tables with aluminum flashing. It's pretty inexpensive ($30 for 100 square feet for .008 thick, about $60 for the same amount of .014 thick), but it comes in 24" wide rolls, which would mean you'd need a good way to adhere it that wouldn't allow it to be kicked up by a boot.
So, that's a probably bad idea. But it at least means the material might be available in wider sections. It might be worth looking into whether there's an industrial use for cheap sheet aluminum that could be repurposed for your floor.
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54FordPanel
Well-known member
the city i live in requires permits to pour slab so shed style it is.
it will be 588 sqft.
besides im not a doctor or some **** and cant afford a $50000 shop.
unless you want to pay for it dont be a critic.
offer up advise that will help with my circumstances or dont post.
(ill do the same)(its called respect)
WTF? Where the hell are these people coming from?
You asked a question, Jack was fleshing you out to get more information.
Here's some advice; Don't be a ****.
stevefasano
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 24, 2009
- Messages
- 135
removed due to
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hardie board genius!
how brittle is that stuff?
i mean if i drop a hammer or when i cut something with the plasma and
it falls will it break the hardie?
i just went to home depot (overpriced retailer) to see what they had
and the linoleums were fire resistant but if slag hit it, it would melt.
so thats out of the picture.
the aluminum wouldnt burn but the wood under it would, right?
thanks for chipping in.
how brittle is that stuff?
i mean if i drop a hammer or when i cut something with the plasma and
it falls will it break the hardie?
i just went to home depot (overpriced retailer) to see what they had
and the linoleums were fire resistant but if slag hit it, it would melt.
so thats out of the picture.
the aluminum wouldnt burn but the wood under it would, right?
thanks for chipping in.
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Would you cover the Hardie Board with something? I would worry about walking on it, since it's kind of brittle. And it contains both respirable crystalline silica and carbon black, both considered carcinogens. The crystalline silica also causes other lung problems.
But I've never worked with it directly, so I don't know if walking on it would cause it to break up and conceivably go into the air you're breathing.
But I've never worked with it directly, so I don't know if walking on it would cause it to break up and conceivably go into the air you're breathing.
HardiBacker is fairly durable, and you can handle the seams with fiberglass tape and thinset. You will already have the thinset, because you bed the board in it (do not neglect this step).
Depending on framing and deflection, installing tile would not be out of the question. I would consider laminating another 1/2" of plywood in a perpendicular pattern, and then installing the Hardi. Depending on your anticipated loads, you might be able to tile it.
Jack, the only time the silica is dangerous, is when you are cutting it. There is no concern when it is in place.
Depending on framing and deflection, installing tile would not be out of the question. I would consider laminating another 1/2" of plywood in a perpendicular pattern, and then installing the Hardi. Depending on your anticipated loads, you might be able to tile it.
Jack, the only time the silica is dangerous, is when you are cutting it. There is no concern when it is in place.
willymakeit
Well-known member
Check intumescent coatings. This may help. Can you pour a inch of lightweight over what you have ?
tncatadjuster
Well-known member
Put sheet metal down with deck screws, scar it up a little with a buffer (50 grit)and move on in.
RPH
Well-known member
Lay gravel and wet down when welding. Not the nicest but doesn't burn either.
Dragster Racer
Well-known member
Just a thought, but have you compared the cost of making your wooden floor as durable as concrete, with...using concrete? I'm not being a wise guy, but for that many sq ft, I would be tempted to diy a concrete pour, and deal with doing a permit. This just seems like an area where you are going to regret doing concrete.
71buickfreak
Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2010
- Messages
- 16
I would go with sheet metal, even better a few sheets of treadplate secured with some wood screws would be plenty.
You're using wood because you're too cheap for concrete ?
The shop you are building is 588 sq ft, which is close to a 24x24, (576 sq ft) That figures out to 18 sheets of plywood, if you buy pressure treated 3/4" that somewhere around $30 a sheet. You'll end up with $540 in plywood plus another 40 in taxes. That's $580 for the plywood and you haven't figures in the framing for the floor. That'll probably cost you another easy 400 bucks. Now you're pushing a easy grand for that wood floor. Add in some more for the Hardi-board or whatever you use to cover when welding.
Now figure the concrete, it's just over 7 yards. The concrete I bought last fall was $90 a yd, that comes out to $630 bucks, add in some more for some gravel. Can you get to a quarry and haul your own stone and save a few bucks ? Form up the floor and find a contractor or concrete guy to do it on the side for a few benjamins and you have a decent floor that will last and no headaches of worrying about fire.
If you want advice, you'll get it here. You may not like what you hear but 95% of the guys on here will not lead you astray. If you want to get an attitude over the advice you get, you may want to find a different forum.
For the record, Jack is one of the most helpful and nicest guys around. He is probably more tolerate then most others and there is a reason he was made a Mod. Honestly, I think an apology is in order to Jack from you.
The shop you are building is 588 sq ft, which is close to a 24x24, (576 sq ft) That figures out to 18 sheets of plywood, if you buy pressure treated 3/4" that somewhere around $30 a sheet. You'll end up with $540 in plywood plus another 40 in taxes. That's $580 for the plywood and you haven't figures in the framing for the floor. That'll probably cost you another easy 400 bucks. Now you're pushing a easy grand for that wood floor. Add in some more for the Hardi-board or whatever you use to cover when welding.
Now figure the concrete, it's just over 7 yards. The concrete I bought last fall was $90 a yd, that comes out to $630 bucks, add in some more for some gravel. Can you get to a quarry and haul your own stone and save a few bucks ? Form up the floor and find a contractor or concrete guy to do it on the side for a few benjamins and you have a decent floor that will last and no headaches of worrying about fire.
If you want advice, you'll get it here. You may not like what you hear but 95% of the guys on here will not lead you astray. If you want to get an attitude over the advice you get, you may want to find a different forum.
For the record, Jack is one of the most helpful and nicest guys around. He is probably more tolerate then most others and there is a reason he was made a Mod. Honestly, I think an apology is in order to Jack from you.
StRacerDuke
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2009
- Messages
- 104
If you are putting decking down I assume you have 2x10 or 2x12 joists at 16" OC. Just want to confirm you're not putting this directly on dirt.
My suggestion if you HAVE to put down T&G plywood: 1/2" HardiBacker with a thin coat of self leveling concrete mix over it. You'll be about 1 3/8" think and fireproof for hot slag and avoid any nasty lung issues with the Hardi being exposed.
My suggestion if you HAVE to put down T&G plywood: 1/2" HardiBacker with a thin coat of self leveling concrete mix over it. You'll be about 1 3/8" think and fireproof for hot slag and avoid any nasty lung issues with the Hardi being exposed.
Self leveling that is rated as a topper or wear layer is going to need to be a minimum of 3/8, and it isn't cheap. It will be even more sensitive to deflection than tile. On top of that, you will need some kind of sealer. Once again, you're getting quite a bit more expensive than the concrete.
yeah I'm looking for the absolute bottom dollar.
I'm not personally building this thing,
i found a cook storage building dealer that will deliver and install
for free... 300 down 150 a month.
the permit is out of the picture, i don't own the land.
i don't make much money and this "garage" is where i will work.
i have a small fabrication shop. i have a lathe, a mill, drill presses,
lots of tools, a mig, a tig and a 100amp plasma cutter.
i make on average 300-350$ a week. and work till i fall asleep in
the shop. currently i pay 350$ for a shop that fills up with water,
over 1 foot in one corner. it has no pavement around it just dust.
there are no overhead lights and its a 45min ride from where i live.
i rent a 1 car garage from a lady and her 17yr old son, i live in it.
she has given me permission to have my shop in her back yard.
it would be an improvement over the mounds of dirt that are there
now.
you may say I'm being "cheap" but to me I'm being no expense spared.
im borrowing money and working as hard as i can to make this happen.
for me this would be such an improvement. ill feel like a million bucks
to have any flooring rather than just dirt like ive had for the last
couple of years.
here are a couple of pictures that show off that dirt.
I'm not personally building this thing,
i found a cook storage building dealer that will deliver and install
for free... 300 down 150 a month.
the permit is out of the picture, i don't own the land.
i don't make much money and this "garage" is where i will work.
i have a small fabrication shop. i have a lathe, a mill, drill presses,
lots of tools, a mig, a tig and a 100amp plasma cutter.
i make on average 300-350$ a week. and work till i fall asleep in
the shop. currently i pay 350$ for a shop that fills up with water,
over 1 foot in one corner. it has no pavement around it just dust.
there are no overhead lights and its a 45min ride from where i live.
i rent a 1 car garage from a lady and her 17yr old son, i live in it.
she has given me permission to have my shop in her back yard.
it would be an improvement over the mounds of dirt that are there
now.
you may say I'm being "cheap" but to me I'm being no expense spared.
im borrowing money and working as hard as i can to make this happen.
for me this would be such an improvement. ill feel like a million bucks
to have any flooring rather than just dirt like ive had for the last
couple of years.
here are a couple of pictures that show off that dirt.
Attachments
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Dark Horse
Well-known member
Form up a pad and pour concrete in a space large enough to do your welding. If you need to be able to move it, put some hardie/durarocketc under it. If not just pour the pad and call it good.
A few bags mixed in a bucket is not to expensive. Run a 2x4 across your forms to level
A few bags mixed in a bucket is not to expensive. Run a 2x4 across your forms to level
tcianci
Well-known member
Wh at makes you think that you're exposed to anything different when you're working in a shop with a poured in placed concrete floor.
There should be a manditory delay between when we click the submit button and when the post hits the board just so you can think about the nonsense that you just typed.
I will concede that this may be one of the most civil sites on the web. Thus I spend a lot of time here. But from a purely technical standpoint. There is more nonsense and simply stupid information based on not much more than ignorance and unfounded fear than any site I have ever visited.
Zeke
Well-known member
Welding over wood isn't the end of the world. You could simply lay down some sheets of what we used to call Transite in the immediate area of the welding. It's a 1/4" thick and rated for heat. Hard as hell and I think you'd have to grind it directly to get any hazardous dust.
As has been said in other threads, making seams at the floor and wall intersection are important when welding and grinding. You don't need embers falling in the cracks when you've worked all night and pass out dead tired.
As has been said in other threads, making seams at the floor and wall intersection are important when welding and grinding. You don't need embers falling in the cracks when you've worked all night and pass out dead tired.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I weld outside in the driveway. If I weld 1" in the garage I spend the night turning and tossing thinking about a loose ember lighting the place on fire and I have concrete floors.
How Ironic - i just signed up on here after lurking a bit (this is my first post ! ) - i too have shop with wood floors an was poking around here to see what folks might be doing - looks like i am not the first to look for solutions..
for what its worth - this is how i have been handling mine in the last 8 years.
my floor is 3' thick plywood with 1/8th masonite covering it - previous owner had started to put cement backer board down (which has fallen apart over the years from pulling cars in on it) the masonite although ugly and "always" dirty - stuff holds dust & dirt like you wouldnt believe - i have welded a full tube chassis and rollcage on it - have had slag fall on it and it burns a hole in it if left - anytime i welded more than a few inches and there was plenty of spatter I always either sprayed the floor with water via a hose or a bucket of water - helps me sleep (that and the camera I mounted in the shop so if i need to i can see in the shop) - welding blankets can catch fire (ask me how i know). You have gotten some great advice on this forum - i like the sheetmetal best (I would just glue it down myself, overlapping if possible).
I am in the same boat but my car is finished so dont expect to be welding near as much from this point. If you can do cement I highly recommend but you can live with a wood floor - you just have to be careful, keep water and extinguishers handy. watering down the floor at the end of the day was pretty common when i was building my chassis. Best of luck and be careful - btw I dig the chopper you built - very cool bike
for what its worth - this is how i have been handling mine in the last 8 years.
my floor is 3' thick plywood with 1/8th masonite covering it - previous owner had started to put cement backer board down (which has fallen apart over the years from pulling cars in on it) the masonite although ugly and "always" dirty - stuff holds dust & dirt like you wouldnt believe - i have welded a full tube chassis and rollcage on it - have had slag fall on it and it burns a hole in it if left - anytime i welded more than a few inches and there was plenty of spatter I always either sprayed the floor with water via a hose or a bucket of water - helps me sleep (that and the camera I mounted in the shop so if i need to i can see in the shop) - welding blankets can catch fire (ask me how i know). You have gotten some great advice on this forum - i like the sheetmetal best (I would just glue it down myself, overlapping if possible).
I am in the same boat but my car is finished so dont expect to be welding near as much from this point. If you can do cement I highly recommend but you can live with a wood floor - you just have to be careful, keep water and extinguishers handy. watering down the floor at the end of the day was pretty common when i was building my chassis. Best of luck and be careful - btw I dig the chopper you built - very cool bike
Broman
Member
Well, I've been where you're at (doing the cheap and dirty). Not sure if this is a dead topic or not - just stumbled on this thread looking for my own solutions - but I am willing to respond in case you've not found anything better.
If you already have plywood floors - how about topping it with cement board. It's cheap - it comes in easy to handle sizes (3'x5') and cuts with any kind of saw you might have. All you need to do is screw it to the floor. It might not be the most fire proof but it will be better than wood.
There might be better solutions and there might be safer solutions but this one is cheap and you could built on top of it if you can afford to later (with tile or stone). All you would need is some leveler or scratch coat....
~Bro
If you already have plywood floors - how about topping it with cement board. It's cheap - it comes in easy to handle sizes (3'x5') and cuts with any kind of saw you might have. All you need to do is screw it to the floor. It might not be the most fire proof but it will be better than wood.
There might be better solutions and there might be safer solutions but this one is cheap and you could built on top of it if you can afford to later (with tile or stone). All you would need is some leveler or scratch coat....
~Bro
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
We have pictures of a small shop with a plywood floor. The floor looked like concrete when they got done coating it with our epoxy coatings. The owner let me know it was much more economical than tile. The pic below is only the primer coat.
Pics: http://legacyindustrial.net/images/Primer Collage.jpg
HiWind
Well-known member
interesting and effective looking ... hows it wearing?
venturesomerite
Well-known member
Off the top of my head, tis is what you options seem to be.
Option A) Maybe do a section that is devoted to welding. Lay some hardie and then slate tile or something similar. This could work depending on what you weld, and where you do it.
Option B) Sheet metal over it. Seams may be tricky
Option C) Buy a bunch of welding blankets and use them liberally when welding.
Option D) Hold off until you can pour a slab and be truly happy.
Option A) Maybe do a section that is devoted to welding. Lay some hardie and then slate tile or something similar. This could work depending on what you weld, and where you do it.
Option B) Sheet metal over it. Seams may be tricky
Option C) Buy a bunch of welding blankets and use them liberally when welding.
Option D) Hold off until you can pour a slab and be truly happy.
harvero
Well-known member
Why not put down a layer of the backer board then cover the area where you will be welding with a layer of these.
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Well-known member
Wow this is an old thread. I wouldnt mind seeing how the wood is holding up.