Wood Router

[PoorOwner]

I need to create a rounded profile on the edge of my maple butcher block boards, I need to use a router for this, can someone give me the basics of what I need?

I borrowed a friend's router with table but I am not sure if it is the kind of router you can take out and use it on a stationary object? Plunge router or something like that?

I figure for $100 or so I should be able to get this going.

 

[Merkava_4]

If you're just going around the edge, you don't need a plunge router.

 

[Benchloader]

The friend you borrowed from should be able to also loan you the instruction manual. Rather you carefully went over the instructions for the specific equipment. Routers are very dangerous, the bits extremely sharp.

http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/content/18179

Don't plug it in until after you've made adjustments. Un-Plug it EVERY time you need to tweak the adjustment.

Practice on a scap piece of wood thats the same thickness as your butcher block.

If you're using a router table with the bit coming up from below, hold your wood top down. If you are using a hand held router, have the wood top up.

The router I use most is under table mounted. Here you can see the rabbitt I cut in a soon to be table top; http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k298/benchloader/100_0619.jpg

 

[Stuey]

The friend you borrowed from should be able to also loan you the instruction manual. Rather you carefully went over the instructions for the specific equipment. Routers are very dangerous, the bits extremely sharp.

VERY good piece of advice!

 

[SteveU]

I need to create a rounded profile on the edge of my maple butcher block boards, I need to use a router for this, can someone give me the basics of what I need?

I borrowed a friend's router with table but I am not sure if it is the kind of router you can take out and use it on a stationary object? Plunge router or something like that?

I figure for $100 or so I should be able to get this going.

Look at a bearing guided round over bit for this. The bearing will keep the router bit from going too deep & will give you a consistent look. Best router to use for this is a fixed base router similar to this one. If you are using the router freehand (not in a router table) do the ends first going from left to right then do the sides always going from left to right. This pulls the router into the work and will reduce tearout at the ends.

 

[PoorOwner]

OK so I figure the hobbyist router table is not going to work for this, handling a 8'x2' countertop is just not going to be possible.

How do the "detached" routers keep itself straight along the edge, does the bearing do this alone?

Is this one going to do the job?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QEVQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

How about this craftsman digital deal


http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...rimmers&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a



I also need to cut out a rectangle for the sink later, but I think I am supposed to use a jigsaw for this.

 

[Jay H 237]

That Porter-Cable is the exact one I have, very good router.

The base helps hold it upright, you just guide it. If I understood the question correctly.

 

[csquared]

Your buddy's router table that you borrowed earlier is a router attached to the botton of a table. I have never seen a router table that wasn't (shapers, obviously, are another thing all together). No sense in buying a router if he is willing to lend you his...

If you do end up taking the plunge (I couldn't help myself), this is the one I have:
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/bosch1617EVSrtr.html

I am constantly impressed by its quality & design. BTW, IIRC the motor is made in the USA.

 

[NAYLOR]

You need a router and a 1/4 round bit. That will make bullnoses all day long. You don't need a router table or a plunge base; in fact you don't really need much know how. If you can't figure out how to use a 1/4 round on a router you have no business owning a workbench...if you catch my drift.

 

[PoorOwner]

I have used my borrowed router + table to do some trims already but I am getting ready to return it and buy my own It belonged to my friend's dad.

I have over 30 feet of hard maple to edge and I don't want or risk burning it out as the router seems kind of old.
If I break it I have to replace it for him, so I think I will buy my own instead, plus I am kind of addicted now making the trims.. something to add to my tools.

 

[csquared]

Check out Whiteside Machine Co. bits. http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/

I don't know what profile you will deside upon, but do get a bearing guided bit as suggested earlier, it will save you some headaches.

 

[SteveU]

OK so I figure the hobbyist router table is not going to work for this, handling a 8'x2' countertop is just not going to be possible.

How do the "detached" routers keep itself straight along the edge, does the bearing do this alone?

Is this one going to do the job?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QEVQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I also need to cut out a rectangle for the sink later, but I think I am supposed to use a jigsaw for this.

For doing something as large as that it would be best to use the router free hand as it would be hard to get good results doing that on a table even if you had a table stable enough to handle the weight.
I would not get a craftsman router, I would stick with a Bosch, Porter Cable, Freud or other name brand router. The Bosch 1617 router kit that csquared linked to is probably the best one & gives you both plunge & fixed base capability, wish they offered it when I bought mine. You will notice the clear extended base on the router in my pic, that gives the router which I use on a leigh d4 added stability. The router bit bearing will follow the outside edge of the part you are routing and unfortunatly will also pick up any defects or roughness & duplicate it so be sure your edge is smooth. The Whiteside bits are good quality, make sure you get carbide bits as they outlast High speed steel bits by a large margin. By going from left to right the rotation of the router bit pulls the router into the work which will keep the bearing against the part where if you go right to left you will have a wavy edge where the router tried to move away from the part.

 

[csquared]

Also right to left = REALLY DANGEROUS. It is called a climb cut, and is only good if you are a thrill seeker.

 

[Merkava_4]

Also right to left = REALLY DANGEROUS. It is called a climb cut, and is only good if you are a thrill seeker.

Now that's ... what I call good advice.