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Wooden Decking

Jsf721

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I have a pressure treated wooden deck in my back yard that is stained dark brown and dealed. I used a product last time called ready seal (Stain and Seal in one), prior to that I used a cabot stain water proofer.

I cannot seem to skip a year between sealing the deck. I will be spraying bleach and water (10:1) and pressure washing the deck, letting it dry out and then applying stain the following weekend.

Can someone guide me on the best wood stan/seal combo? I usually do 2 coats on the verticle surfaces and 1 on the spindles.

I have about 1200-1500 square feet of flooring to cover.

Also, what PSI pressurewasher is best for this type of work? I used a 1200 PSI washer last time and it was a very slow, process.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
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Jsf721

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You are right, all fixed, it is a pressure treated wooden deck.

It is about 12 years old and in that time I have stained it ever other year up until about 4 years ago when I started to have to do it yearly to keep it looking good and protected.

Not sure if the VOC laws made the new formulas weaker or the wood is unable to hold the stain as effectively as it got older.

about 1/2 of the 1200 sq feet was under salt water for about a day and a half. The deck was hosed off after the Hurricane. I saw the seaweed and silt on the surface in addition to the salty grit and decided to wash it off quickly. At that time my pressure washer was destroyed so I was forced to use the hose.

you didn't say the type of wood
 

bdamico

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does the bleach strip the old finish (necessary to penetrate)? I've only used strippers. If you don't strip it sufficiently, is that your problem with lesser results on reapplication maybe? I've used olympic, thompson, and cabot--i really like cabot. I had a pressure treated deck and ultimately dumped it for cedar and ipe after I couldn't put up with it any more. Also, you could go with a less transparent stain--they seem to last better.
 
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Jsf721

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I am not sure if the bleach strips off the old finish or if it cleans the wood. it appreas that most of the protection is long gone.

does the bleach strip the old finish (necessary to penetrate)? I've only used strippers. If you don't strip it sufficiently, is that your problem with lesser results on reapplication maybe? I've used olympic, thompson, and cabot--i really like cabot. I had a pressure treated deck and ultimately dumped it for cedar and ipe after I couldn't put up with it any more. Also, you could go with a less transparent stain--they seem to last better.
 

bdamico

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I am not sure if the bleach strips off the old finish or if it cleans the wood. it appreas that most of the protection is long gone.

I think not and I think you need to strip it good so it will penetrate. But hopefully someone else here does it for a living and knows
 

retfr8flyr

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I have had very good luck with Sherwin Williams Deckscapes semi-transparent stain. It is more like a paint then a stain but it still allows the grain pattern to show and that is what I was looking for with my deck. I apply this about every 3 years and it holds up well.


Earl
 

pauloman

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I gave up on stain and now use a brown exterior latex paint on the deck. On the deck floor I've use an MCU metallic paint (gives a nice gray-aluminum color) over an epoxy primer.
 

Garage Flooring

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Please understand that I am not speaking for the manufacturer, and I do not sell the product. I have seen the product sold and installed in everything from Log Cabins in the north west to desert climates to the east coast. It soaks into the wood as opposed to providing a sacrificial layer that wears off. I've seen thousands and thousands of gallons go out the door at various places and I have never seen or heard of a single complaint. Now I have had people complain that the roofing nails we sell (sold) bend to easily. I say that to say people find ways to complain about products, but everyone seems to love that one.
 

Fredartic

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Ste-Sophie, Quebec

James-W

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I have used an oil based stain on some outdoor wooden furniture and it worked really well. It is the Cabot Australian oil stain and all you need is one coat, but it needs to be a pretty heavy coat because the stain soaks into the wood pretty good. This particular stain is a bit on the pricey side, but it really protects the wood for a long time. I don't know for certain just how it would work on treated wood, but I don't see why it wouldn't work OK. If there is a place near you that sells the stuff, ask if they can tell you someone who has used it and then talk to those people and see what they think about it.
 
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Angelfire

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I built a deck in Northern NM a few years ago. It sees very high UV, rain, snow, etc.... I got samples of everything including the ready seal you mentioned. Made sample boards and they have been weathering for about 4 years now. Bottom line is nothing truly stands up to the environment this deck is in. In saying that, I went with Armstrong Clark. For two reasons. One, it held up the best and two, it is very simple to recoat. I simply was with sodium percarbonate then hit it with citric acid to neutralize. Let it dry out, then apply the oil. As the owner of AC told me, in my local, i shuold plan to reseal every year so I figured I might as well go with something that is simple to apply.

I've used penofin before and it holds up well. The problem is its a ***** to recoat as you need to fully strip it every time you recoat. It's a good product but I stopped using it when I found the Armstrong Clark stuff.
 
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Jsf721

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Thanks. I can switch to oxygen bleach easily.

 

Automatic Slim

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In a shack by the river in Central Arkansas
sikkens.

you generally get what you pay for in a good stain, i also have used onetimewood with good results - they claim 7 yrs but i end up doing every 2-3 and have only done verticals once in 7 years and still going strong. I live in Arkansas and damn weather is inhabitable/brutal. Mostly **** at big box stores, need to go to flooring store. If you don't get high when opening stain - return, lol. Get something that is not "watered" down. Some are better equipped for mold/mildew or UV, so examine the weather that gets on the deck.

i wouldn't use bleach, simple green solution or dish soap. 1200 psi should be good enough since deck is small and best not to get too **** - don't raise the wood by digging in.

i always brush as it agitates the wood and helps absorp and usu slather it on too. Rebrush the wet spots if the deck has problems soaking it in.

depending on your weather and maintenance (letting snow sit on deck and such) will depend on life of stain.

alot of people are framing in PT and deck w/ plastic - as they have hidden clips and less maintenance.
 

Jack Olsen

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Still no help to the original poster, but the Penofin dried overnight and looks pretty nice:

penoofin.jpg


:)
 

Angelfire

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Try cleaning with oxi-clean. I read about it a few years ago. Works great.

But buy it as sodium percarbonate in bulk.....much cheaper than buying the name brand clothes soap! And it does work well.

To another poster, I tried the Sikkens Cetol on my sample boards. It held up as average among my other samples. I didn't use it for this reason.

I found that you really should look for sealers that are developed for your climate as best you can. What works in Florida may not work in the high mountains of NM and vice versa.
 

WhoWhatNow

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Collegeville, PA
Please understand that I am not speaking for the manufacturer, and I do not sell the product. I have seen the product sold and installed in everything from Log Cabins in the north west to desert climates to the east coast. It soaks into the wood as opposed to providing a sacrificial layer that wears off. I've seen thousands and thousands of gallons go out the door at various places and I have never seen or heard of a single complaint. Now I have had people complain that the roofing nails we sell (sold) bend to easily. I say that to say people find ways to complain about products, but everyone seems to love that one.

Thanks for the insight. Our deck is 12yrs old and is due this year. I don't know if the POs every did anything to it. I've used most of the clear stains sold in the big box stores and they usually don't last more than a year or two. They wear off very quickly under use. I'm looking for something different.
 

Jack Olsen

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Well, I'll apologize in advance for taking things even further off-topic. But I just finished the pergola part. It started as a bunch of these:

bender01.jpg


And they got curved:

bender02.jpg


And assembled:

upintheairt.jpg


patternch.jpg


And then -- once the roof part of it was built and painted -- the whole thing had to be raised up seven feet, with my improvised and home-engineered crane.

tower02.jpg


ceiling.jpg


With the pillars welded in:

angleonnewcorner.jpg


Then lights.

firstnightshot.jpg


And shade fabric:

cover05x.jpg


And then the Penofin.

It's still not finished. But I'm almost there.

furniture03.jpg


I run the gas to the fireplace tomorrow. (The furniture you see did not make the cut with my wife and will be going back.)
 
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Jsf721

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LI, NY
Jack,

Great job, the space looks finished. I have not been able to clena up my garage in the time you have constructed this beauty! I hope you take the time to enjoy it !

I am having a hard time visualizing your space. Is this your backyard? Side yard? How about an ariel sketch. I remeber being thrown that the garage was in the rear of your house.

Thanks,

Jeff
 

SapesOfIndia

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Feb 9, 2013
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Atlanta, GA
Jack, I applaud your ingenuity!

Do you have any trouble with the rainwater running down the shade on the house?

I am interested in building something similar but just with the mosquito netting instead of shade. I have seen what I am talking about a lot in Florida but don't see anything like that here in Georgia.

What is the metal material? Is it steel or aluminium? Where can I buy it? Does it need to be welded or one can get a coupler to connect them?

Sorry Earl for going off topic.
 
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Fredartic

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Ste-Sophie, Quebec
I'm a real newbie in concrete floor, but in wood floor, it's another history... I think that from my experience as a owner an a good searcher that what ever you choose for your deck, the most important for me, is to choose something that can be easily recoat, without needing to be all sanding... just because this is a job that itself when deck needs to be prepared for recoating. I know that!

Good luck!
 

Fredartic

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283
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Ste-Sophie, Quebec
I'm a real newbie in concrete floor, but in wood floor, it's another history... I think that from my experience as a owner an a good searcher that what ever you choose for your deck, the most important for me, is to choose something that can be easily recoat, without needing to be all sanding... just because this is a job that itself when deck needs to be prepared for recoating. I know that!

Good luck!
 
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