The BF/MFT Workbench Build – Part 2

Posted by 141drew Posted onNov 6, 2019 at 3:23 PM and filed under Projects
Updated onUpdated on May 28, 2021 at 3:49 PM

Man… I feel like this video is long and drawn out. I don’t know if it’s because I’ve watched the clips so many damned times while editing or if it really is that bad. In any regard, here it is… In this issue, I get the foundation of the bench finalized with systainer drawers, traditional drawers, and finally – an MFT work top.

The next an final installment is when all the fun stuff will happen – building a fence, adding a really trick guild rail pivot, and other things for jigs, etc… So, stay tuned!

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I

icecactus

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Awesome!
Im actually planning to make a cart for the MFT like you did soon, and I have a bunch of 8020 sitting in the garage to make another 4x8 table similar to what your making now...Looking forward to see what your doing with accessories.
 
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Max

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Both a great build and a great video! Thank you for doing the work to share this.

- Max
 
5

56Safari

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Looks great, nice work.. The video is great, probably just tunnel vision from editing. I like that your scenes walk people through the process of building and that you mostly narrate it in post. I find most DIY videos are done without ADR and without a script and I lose interest in less than 15 seconds because its incoherent. Can't wait to see more
 
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jfoster

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Nice. I have a new, empty garage project that needs filling. Also have a 964 project - dig yours!
 
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Ryan

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Stuart in MN said:
The final top came out great. It is curious what went on with the wonky holes on the first two attempts.
Click to expand...

I have no idea. The first shop has a great rep... and while the hacker space CNC was pretty rough, the guy running it was very sharp.

I wonder if that Plum Creek MDF I used on the first two doesn’t machine well?
 
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DEXTERBBQ

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Great video series.

I've contemplated doing something similar or a wall of "chaos". Have you seen the Chaos Wall by Herr Guidos? I have a fair amount of Festool along with Bosch items that would be better stored in something like your workbench or in a wall system. Anyhow, great video.

Eric
 
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Ryan

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Here’s the sacrificial HDPE kerf insert I made... was super nerve racking, but it came out pretty clean.
 

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brum

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Do you have the file for the foot template? I tried printing one out from FOG and the scaling wasn't correct. Thanks!
 
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Ryan

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Guide rail pivot installed.
 

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Ryan

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I like to make fun of people that use kaizen foam... Now, I can make fun of myself!
 

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papester

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Ryan,

Nice table, great video. Can you share the drawing you used for the double deep festool draws? Do you have it in a SVG format. I would like to see how it works out with my Shaper Origin.

Regards,
 
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Ryan

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papester said:
Ryan,

Nice table, great video. Can you share the drawing you used for the double deep festool draws? Do you have it in a SVG format. I would like to see how it works out with my Shaper Origin.

Regards,
Click to expand...

I'll send you the .ai via email... On the way!
 
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Jayman17

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Ryan, great job on your workbench build. That turned out really nice! Plenty of room and I'll bet it is great to work on, that sacrificial kerf strip is slick.

Jay
 
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rslaback

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Having machined 4x8 pieces of MDF in a Shopbot once upon a time, I would wager a guess that your issue with the center dog holes is that the sheet could actually lift up in the middle when being cut. Most users choose an upcut bit to pull the dust out of the hole and this can actually pull the sheet up a bit as well. Even without that though the sheet will twist and warp if you let it, particularly if you are removing a bunch of material. It has internal stresses from manufacturing almost like a piece of tempered glass and the sheet will move as those stresses are relieved. If this happens it will throw the geometry of your shapes off and you'd see it on something low tolerance like a dog hole.

I noticed in the video of the second sheet on the CNC that it appeared to be using hold downs along the outside edge.

If the sheet was lifting there are a few ways to combat that issue. The first is a vacuum table but you can also get creative with carpet tape, a hold down foot on the gantry or toolpathing strategies. I never had access to a vacuum table that large so I would use multiple toolpaths. In this case I would have created 3 toolpaths. The first one would have done a simple plunge cut in the center of one of the holes about 1' on center. Once that was done I would have used a screw through each of those holes into the spoilboard to perfectly secure the piece and prevent it from lifting. The second toolpath would have machined all of the dog holes except those with screws in them. After that was done, before removing the hold down screws, use some fender washers and screws to secure the piece about 1' on center through some of the fully machined dog holes. Then remove the first batch of screws. The final toolpath would machine the dog holes where the first round of screws had been. It's more steps but your workpiece stability is rock solid.
 
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Ryan

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rslaback said:
Having machined 4x8 pieces of MDF in a Shopbot once upon a time, I would wager a guess that your issue with the center dog holes is that the sheet could actually lift up in the middle when being cut. Most users choose an upcut bit to pull the dust out of the hole and this can actually pull the sheet up a bit as well. Even without that though the sheet will twist and warp if you let it, particularly if you are removing a bunch of material. It has internal stresses from manufacturing almost like a piece of tempered glass and the sheet will move as those stresses are relieved. If this happens it will throw the geometry of your shapes off and you'd see it on something low tolerance like a dog hole.

I noticed in the video of the second sheet on the CNC that it appeared to be using hold downs along the outside edge.

If the sheet was lifting there are a few ways to combat that issue. The first is a vacuum table but you can also get creative with carpet tape, a hold down foot on the gantry or toolpathing strategies. I never had access to a vacuum table that large so I would use multiple toolpaths. In this case I would have created 3 toolpaths. The first one would have done a simple plunge cut in the center of one of the holes about 1' on center. Once that was done I would have used a screw through each of those holes into the spoilboard to perfectly secure the piece and prevent it from lifting. The second toolpath would have machined all of the dog holes except those with screws in them. After that was done, before removing the hold down screws, use some fender washers and screws to secure the piece about 1' on center through some of the fully machined dog holes. Then remove the first batch of screws. The final toolpath would machine the dog holes where the first round of screws had been. It's more steps but your workpiece stability is rock solid.
Click to expand...

I think this is the most reasonable explanation I've heard. The first CNC guy had a shop bot and used double sided tape, but I wasn't there to see the machining.

The second guy just clamped by the sides. I put my hand on the sheet multiple times during the process and never felt anything amiss, but I'm sure it doesn't take much to do what it did.

To give you guys an idea of costs:

Top 1: Plum Creek MDF sheet = $59. CNC Fee = $160. However, this guy refunded me $60. Total = $159

Top 2: Plum Creek MDF sheet =$59. CNC Fee = $145. Total = $204

Top 3: Double refined MDF sheet = $40 CNC Fee = $210. Total = $250

So... I've got about $600 in the top... which is more than I have in 80/20 for the hole bench. Bummer...
 
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x95braat

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I have a similar CNC machine and have done some MFT tables in MDF and never saw any lifting. I also switched mine to use a 20mm drill bit or a 3/4" drill bit depending on the size of the dog hole system desired. That machined faster and seemed to give better hole results without the possibility of the gantry flex, hole size or out of round issues. I'd also say those prices seem a bit high for such a simple cut path.

I watched the videos and I liked the modifications to side rails for the entry of the clamps and T-bolts. I may have to make that adjustment on my next work table.
 
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Ryan

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x95braat said:
I have a similar CNC machine and have done some MFT tables in MDF and never saw any lifting. I also switched mine to use a 20mm drill bit or a 3/4" drill bit depending on the size of the dog hole system desired. That machined faster and seemed to give better hole results without the possibility of the gantry flex, hole size or out of round issues. I'd also say those prices seem a bit high for such a simple cut path.

I watched the videos and I liked the modifications to side rails for the entry of the clamps and T-bolts. I may have to make that adjustment on my next work table.
Click to expand...

I think CNC Fees are pretty regional... and Austin seems expensive. I got quotes from every 5x10 CNC I could find in Austin and prices ranged from $400 to $145.
 
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tarmy

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Great video...man, you have too much time on your hands...:bounce:

Where can I find the first video...please....
 
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roninnanaki

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Ryan, Great video and design for your work table! I have been planning a 4x8 work table for my single car garage workshop and really like the idea of the aluminum frame and the casters that you implemented. It will be so much easier to move when I get a bigger house. Perhaps I missed it, but have you shared your plans and where you got your parts? I would love to start exploring a design similar. Thanks in advance.
 
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Ryan

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Jayman17 said:
Ryan, great job on your workbench build. That turned out really nice! Plenty of room and I'll bet it is great to work on, that sacrificial kerf strip is slick.

Jay
Click to expand...

Yes sir. Once I finish the series, I will get the plans together and post them.
 
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ms162223

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Ryan, great work. It's an amazing design. I can't wait to see a set of plans. Can you include a cut list and drill order for the 8020 as well. How is the next video coming? I am looking forward to seeing what you do next!
 
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bujoojoo

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ms162223 said:
Ryan, great work. It's an amazing design. I can't wait to see a set of plans. Can you include a cut list and drill order for the 8020 as well. How is the next video coming? I am looking forward to seeing what you do next!
Click to expand...

Ditto on the plans with cut list... Awesome work!
 
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4t64rd

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Designed on for the 2' x 7' space I have, will incorporate miter saw, table saw and router. Flip up outfeed with be a hollow core door. I will cover it with a piece of indoor outdoor carpet for assembly, I have a roll of butcher paper to cover it for glue.

It's loosely based on this guys design, but in a smaller footprint.

 

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Ryan

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4t64rd said:
Designed on for the 2' x 7' space I have, will incorporate miter saw, table saw and router. Flip up outfeed with be a hollow core door. I will cover it with a piece of indoor outdoor carpet for assembly, I have a roll of butcher paper to cover it for glue.

It's loosely based on this guys design, but in a smaller footprint.

Click to expand...

Very cool...

I was planning on having part 3 out last week, but Thanksgiving got in the way and now I'm busy packing and shipping merch. That and a few aftermarket mfgs have come up with some ideas they want me to try... and a few of those seem really promising. I want to do that before I make any recommendations, etc...
 
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vavet

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4t64rd said:
Designed on for the 2' x 7' space I have, will incorporate miter saw, table saw and router. Flip up outfeed with be a hollow core door. I will cover it with a piece of indoor outdoor carpet for assembly, I have a roll of butcher paper to cover it for glue.

It's loosely based on this guys design, but in a smaller footprint.

Click to expand...

Nice design. Have you thought about turning the table saw 90 degrees to use that as a outfeed support instead of the flip up door?
 
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dhand02

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Hi Ryan,

I was wondering if you've had an opportunity to get the plans done? I'm starting the build on my new shop and was looking to build a variation of your table. In the meantime, i had a couple questions:
1. In the first video at minute 8:14 you are installing alum. blocks for the wheels...can you share what / where you got those? I can't find them on Orange's website.
2. Are you using 25 or 40mm alum?
3. At 9:25 where did you get that cross piece?
 
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yogo1000

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Great project. I love the kerf strip, and will have to think how to incorporate that into my bench too.
 
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4t64rd

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I never thought about it, but I'd have to see if I can stand the 4" in extra depth (the Ridgid Table saw is 28" wide when closed), I only have allotted 24" of depth for the bench, or I may clip the mirror on my Ford.

Be nice to have that be permanent, 3/4" ply gets heavy.
 
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