Accessible methods for bending sheet metal?

[JackOfDiamonds]

I need to bend some 16-guage steel. I guess that's a little less than 1/16". The bends will be 3-6 inches long and 20-45 degrees.

I have no good method to do this. Are there any tips and tricks or special tools for it?

If I clamp it in a vise and beat it over with a big hammer, it will be wavy and ugly. If I try to just bend it over without the hammer, the bend radius will be wide like 1-inch radius. I do have a pair of those vise-grips with the wide jaws on it, but it can't clamp over it because the piece is too long and the jaws of the vise-grip aren't deep enough.

I know metal brakes exist but for bending little parts like this is there a better way?

I have acetylene torch with very small welding tips. Could I heat up a strip to red hot, and then bend it hot, would that actually work? I'm not sure I could heat up the whole width with a torch while maintaining a narrow heated zone.

 

[Jim greengo]

Buy a cheap harbor freight break and have at it.
Do you have access to a metal topped bench?

 

[jwilson645]

Several easy ways to do it. Do you have any angle iron laying around?

Here's one way. https://www.mistrymaketool.com/diy-sheet-metal-bending-tool/


Google "diy metal brake" for more.

 

[Bodj Built]

This could be useful, as long as the pieces fit into the depth of the vice

6" Vise Brake at Grizzly.com

<h1>Grizzly H3245 6" Vise Brake</h1> <h2>The slickest and cheapest way to properly bend sheet metal.</h2> <p>The H3245 6" Vise Brake allows you to bend shapes in metal and then quickly be stashed away when not in use.</p> <p>The dies mount into your vise and are held magnetically. Slide your...

www.grizzly.com

 

[no704]

Do it in the vice, with a small hammer. Or a chunk of Al bar being hit with the big hammer, key is go slow and keep the force near the edge of the vice jaw.

 

[Aaron_W]

As mentioned there are a few DIY "brakes" that work pretty well. The main thing to keep the bends clean is having something solid to support both halves of the metal.

Harbor Freight is actually a really good source for inexpensive but useful hobby grade metal working tools.

 

[jwilson645]

I just bought this one a month ago when it was on sale. I haven't tried it out yet though.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200888088_200888088

 

[FTWingRiders]

I literally just tried to bend 16ga in the HF 30” brake.. not happy with it, you need a lot of clamping to keep it from sliding. I then looked at the “instructions” and it said 17ga maximum. Just my experience.

It did work well with lesser gauge..

 

[danski0224]

I have yet to see a "cheap" sheet metal brake that will truly bend 16 gauge material. Maybe a few inches in width, certainly not on one of those 36" finger brakes that are only a couple hundred pounds at best.

 

[Aaron_W]

I literally just tried to bend 16ga in the HF 30” brake.. not happy with it, you need a lot of clamping to keep it from sliding. I then looked at the “instructions” and it said 17ga maximum. Just my experience.

It did work well with lesser gauge..

Yeah, it seems like you need to beef it up to bend anything thicker than 20ga. I've seen people add sturdy C clamps to help support the clamping portion which seems to help with thicker sheet.

 

[BTL-A4]

I need to bend some 16-guage steel. I guess that's a little less than 1/16". The bends will be 3-6 inches long and 20-45 degrees.

I have no good method to do this. Are there any tips and tricks or special tools for it?

If I clamp it in a vise and beat it over with a big hammer, it will be wavy and ugly. If I try to just bend it over without the hammer, the bend radius will be wide like 1-inch radius. I do have a pair of those vise-grips with the wide jaws on it, but it can't clamp over it because the piece is too long and the jaws of the vise-grip aren't deep enough.

I know metal brakes exist but for bending little parts like this is there a better way?

I have acetylene torch with very small welding tips. Could I heat up a strip to red hot, and then bend it hot, would that actually work? I'm not sure I could heat up the whole width with a torch while maintaining a narrow heated zone.

How small of a bend radius are you wanting? I used the jaws that fit in a vice and the bend radii were not small.

How many pieces are you bending?

Another way is to score it with a metal cutting saw and bend it. That works better for 90° bends, though.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

The radius doesn't have to be super small.

 

[LXCam]

You stated how long they are, but how wide would help a bunch. Also do you have a fairly solid vise or even a very sturdy bench?

 

[tarbellb]

Most accessible routes:

score w grinder and bend by hand

vise with v jaw accessory

hydraulic press with Swag off-road press plates

new/used full size brake

 

[RoninB4]

Some folks have asked the OP if he has access to a sturdy workbench, no reply.

Also asked the size of the bend radius, rather vague answer of "The radius doesn't have to be super small."

Members here want to help, including me, but more details usually get better advice. Just a suggestion.

 

[lilredex]

Put it in your vise and knock it over with a hammer and 2 X 4. If you have a few to do, make something like this one.

 

[545_days]

Clamping it in a vise and beating with a hammer will only make it wavy and ugly if you try to rush the job and beat the **** out of it.

Patience and good technique will result in a smooth bend. Plan to tap with a smooth, faced hammer hundreds of times working slowly back and forth. Impact should be square to the face of the hammer and not leave dents. If you see a dent, you are doing it wrong. The results will surprise you.

I read this thread: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/mp-c-shop-projects.182565/ over the course of a week and learned more about working sheet metal than I had in years of doing it myself.

 

[BillK]

J,
I would bet that almost every reasonable size town should have somebody around that can do it for you. As much as I am a die hard do it yourself type, sometimes it just makes a lot more sense to pay somebody.

I dont know where you are in Idaho but i would start asking a few farm implement shops. Then maybe some HVAC contractors. They dont typically make ducts that thick but they might have a recommendation.

Idaho sheet metal shops - Google Search

Makes no sense to me to buy a tool that may or may not work for a one time job.

Just my opinion,

 

[nadogail]

Maybe you need to ask around in your local area, you may then find a guy that knows a guy that just happens to be a "Tin Bender".

 

[Spareparts]

Do you have a press, couple of heavy Angle Iron and some flat bar makes a good press break for a short bend like that

 

[slodat]

Where are you located? I have a CNC press brake.

 

[welder4956]

I need to bend some 16-guage steel. I guess that's a little less than 1/16". The bends will be 3-6 inches long and 20-45 degrees.

I have no good method to do this. Are there any tips and tricks or special tools for it?

If I clamp it in a vise and beat it over with a big hammer, it will be wavy and ugly. If I try to just bend it over without the hammer, the bend radius will be wide like 1-inch radius. I do have a pair of those vise-grips with the wide jaws on it, but it can't clamp over it because the piece is too long and the jaws of the vise-grip aren't deep enough.

I know metal brakes exist but for bending little parts like this is there a better way?

I have acetylene torch with very small welding tips. Could I heat up a strip to red hot, and then bend it hot, would that actually work? I'm not sure I could heat up the whole width with a torch while maintaining a narrow heated zone.

Put the piece in the vise and clamp a piece of 1/4" or 3/8" flat bar at least 2" longer than the bend on each side of the free end with vise grips, c-clamps or bolts on each side. Bolts would be best to keep the 2 pieces of flat bar in alignment. Tap it over with a hammer. Grind a 45 degree bevel on the flat bar on the inside of the bend to make a tight radius.

 

[cannuck]

If you have a press you owe it to yourself to build some brake tooling. I find half of the jobs in my 20 ton use a set of bottom dies that are essentially a stack of nested and tack welded 1/4" x 1 1/2" angle that sit in my V blocks. To die(s) are a quick and dirty mounted on 3/4 bolt that screw into mandrel. Have several different sizes and can bend up to 1/2" stuff with some setups. Various radii. etc. Have to make a new set for 100 ton press and will probably use some actual press brake tooling to make them. Really like that Grizzly thing from above, but very limited in depth of material behind the bend axis (it will hit the vise jaw after 2 or 3 inches at 90 degrees). Note it has a removable "top:" die so you can make up with different radii.

 

[jimgood]

It might be more than you want to spend but if you have a press, these are the ticket.

PRESS BRAKE DIES 2 PCS. 5 3/4 W. HEAVY DUTY #1829 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for PRESS BRAKE DIES 2 PCS. 5 3/4 W. HEAVY DUTY #1829 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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I bought a set a long time ago and was able adapt them for use in my HF press.

Even if you don't have a press, you still might be able to make this work by putting the bottom die in a vice, lay the piece you want to bend on that and hammer the top die with a dead blow hammer. It's not ideal and you'll have to constantly reposition it after every blow.

Another way might be to clamp two pieces of 2 x 4 on edge and lay your sheet on top of them with the bend exactly on the gap between the two pieces. Then just use the top die and hammer.

 

[lilredex]

Clamping it in a vise and beating with a hammer will only make it wavy and ugly if you try to rush the job and beat the **** out of it.

Patience and good technique will result in a smooth bend. Plan to tap with a smooth, faced hammer hundreds of times working slowly back and forth. Impact should be square to the face of the hammer and not leave dents. If you see a dent, you are doing it wrong. The results will surprise you.

I read this thread: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/mp-c-shop-projects.182565/ over the course of a week and learned more about working sheet metal than I had in years of doing it myself.

That's not what I was suggesting. You beat on the 2 X 4 and it will fold it over smoothly.

 

[545_days]

Sorry for the confusion lilredex. I was replying to the OP's line stating that clamping it in a vise wouldn't work, not your post. That is why I never mention 2x4s.

 

[MushCreek]

I made this part from 16 ga. I did it in a vise and a block of wood and a hammer.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

Lots of good advice in this thread but I couldn't come up with anything that made me happy without spending money.

Also, how do you cut sheet metal that's too thick for snips? I used my 4-inch cutoff wheel but it was messy, not very precise, and made a big kerf. I feel like what's needed is a hacksaw with hyper-fine teeth, but I never found hacksaw blades with more than 32tpi.

Instead of bending I just cut the parts out and brazed them together at an angle.

 

[BillK]

Just curious ....... what is going to mount on the bracket ?

 

[jwilson645]

Also, how do you cut sheet metal that's too thick for snips?

Bandsaw or hacksaw usually. Thin cutoff wheel in the grinder will work too.

 

[JackOfDiamonds]

Just curious ....... what is going to mount on the bracket ?

Front rack for my cargo bike.

 

[jimgood]

Also, how do you cut sheet metal that's too thick for snips? I used my 4-inch cutoff wheel but it was messy, not very precise, and made a big kerf. I feel like what's needed is a hacksaw with hyper-fine teeth, but I never found hacksaw blades with more than 32tpi.

What you ended up with looks great!
If I need a precise cut with an angle grinder, I use a sharpie or Dykem and a scribe to ensure I mark a nice clean, visible line. When I cut, I try to make sure I can brace my right hand on something to keep it steady, put the cutting disc on the far side of the cut so I can see the cut line without the disc obscuring it and orient the grinder so the disc is trying to pull away from my hand instead of pushing into it. I also found it better to score the cut the full length then keep moving back and forth rather than trying to cut all the way through at the beginning an continuing that deep cut the rest of the way. This makes cutting discs last longer too.

 

[MushCreek]

Looks good! For cutting detail in thin stuff, I use a jigsaw with a fine (32 tooth) blade. Make sure you support it well.

 

[Innovate1]

Thin sheet metal can be cut with a hacksaw. You need to keep several teeth in the cut. If you angle the blade so it is nearly parallel with the metal you will have more teeth engagement and it can be cut with a standard fine tooth blade.