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The VISES of Garage Journal

ranger08

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has anyone seen these markings on a main spindle from a very old vise, the trailing edge has machine marks every quarter turn or so, they are not chips. It doesn’t represent a thread cut on a traditional lathe
915D0C80-7817-4A29-9D46-DEFB79370B93.jpeg
 
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KMScott

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has anyone seen these markings on a main spindle from a very old vise, the trailing edge has machine marks every quarter turn or so, they are not chips. It doesn’t represent a thread cut on a traditional lathe
Looks like the die head that threaded your spindle was run with little or no cutting oil. Threads were cut with a die head on a one shot thread operation, this is after the rod is friction welded to the handle end. It’s hard to tell if the threads are square or acme. I used to run screw machine in the 70’s and ran across this issue when the cutting oil got low.
 

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mikeinri

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has anyone seen these markings on a main spindle from a very old vise, the trailing edge has machine marks every quarter turn or so, they are not chips. It doesn’t represent a thread cut on a traditional lathe
915D0C80-7817-4A29-9D46-DEFB79370B93.jpeg

Looks like the die head that threaded your spindle was run with little or no cutting oil. Threads were cut with a die head on a one shot thread operation, this is after the rod is friction welded to the handle end. It’s hard to tell if the threads are square or acme. I used to run screw machine in the 70’s and ran across this issue when the cutting oil got low.

What brand / model vise was this on?

Mike
 

dbovair

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I got a hollands 46 recently and was finally able to pop the pin out using the screw jack method I saw here and a little help from the blow torch. Naively I thought as soon as the pin was out the jaw would move but it’s still stuck hard.

Does anyone have suggestions for ways of getting the swivel jaw unstuck once the pins out? I’ve been using penetrating oil too but not the good stuff just liquid wrench and some “safe cracker” I found at work. Of course I’ve been beating on it too. ThanksBE5999D7-73BA-42D1-8C07-DB34DEAE1414.jpeg
 

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Mr. Wonderful

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I got a hollands 46 recently and was finally able to pop the pin out using the screw jack method I saw here and a little help from the blow torch. Naively I thought as soon as the pin was out the jaw would move but it’s still stuck hard.

Does anyone have suggestions for ways of getting the swivel jaw unstuck once the pins out? I’ve been using penetrating oil too but not the good stuff just liquid wrench and some “safe cracker” I found at work. Of course I’ve been beating on it too. ThanksBE5999D7-73BA-42D1-8C07-DB34DEAE1414.jpeg
I have that same exact vise. Mine was also stuck. I wound up using a big brass drift and a copper hammer to drive the back side of the swivel jaw sideways. I would drive it a little one way and get some oil in there then work it back the other way. I don’t think it went completely free until about the last quarter of the rotation. Take your time and use plenty of oil and it’ll work free. Good luck!
 

Chris Christiansen

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I've been restoring tools for a long time. I was introduced to KROIL some years ago. When I worked as a GE field engineer on steam turbines, we bought KROIL by the 55 gallon drum. KROIL website

If you can find KROIL (not in aerosol) then soak that vise in KROIL for a week or month. Then it most certainly will free up. OBTW, other folks swear by 50-50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. I've never used that, but I'd give that a try first before KROIL. Good luck and let us know about your plan and if it works!

Check out this GJ thread: Garage Journal Thread KROIL vs 50-50 acetone/ATF
 
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dbovair

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Feb 18, 2023
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I have that same exact vise. Mine was also stuck. I wound up using a big brass drift and a copper hammer to drive the back side of the swivel jaw sideways. I would drive it a little one way and get some oil in there then work it back the other way. I don’t think it went completely free until about the last quarter of the rotation. Take your time and use plenty of oil and it’ll work free. Good luck!
Thank you I guess I’ll have to keep hammering and be patient
I’ll probably have to bolt it down so it doesn’t just move around when I hit it
 

dbovair

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Feb 18, 2023
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I've been restoring tools for a long time. I was introduced to KROIL some years ago. When I worked as a GE field engineer on steam turbines, we bought KROIL by the 55 gallon drum. KROIL website

If you can find KROIL (not in aerosol) then soak that vise in KROIL for a week or month. Then it most certainly will free up. OBTW, other folks swear by 50-50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. I've never used that, but I'd give that a try first before KROIL. Good luck and let us know about your plan and if it works!

Check out this GJ thread: Garage Journal Thread KROIL vs 50-50 acetone/ATF
I’ll have to try that acetone and atf mix
I already have acetone would just need the atf thank you
 

Shiftless

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It might help to preload some force on that stuck swivel jaw. With the vise assembled, clamp something like a chunk of steel off center between the jaws and crank down on the handle. Then tap sideways on the back edge like you have been doing.

I have dealt with more than one stuck swivel jaw. Lots of penetrating oil, tapping back and forth and you’ll get it freed up. Be patient and don’t break anything. That’s a great old vise.

I have its baby brother. Not so much of a baby at a healthy 76 pounds.

AECEA821-96F9-4C94-9E57-AAB6E6E196DB.jpeg
 
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dbovair

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Feb 18, 2023
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It might help to preload some force on that stuck swivel jaw. With the vise assembled, clamp something like a chunk of steel off center between the jaws and crank down on the handle. Then tap sideways on the back edge like you have been doing.

I have dealt with more than one stuck swivel jaw. Lots of penetrating oil, tapping back and forth and you’ll get it freed up. Be patient and don’t break anything. That’s a great old vise.

I have its baby brother. Not so much of a baby at a healthy 76 pounds.

AECEA821-96F9-4C94-9E57-AAB6E6E196DB.jpeg
Yours looks great!
Is that an original hollands color or did you pick one you liked? I’m not sure if I want to leave it raw cast iron or paint it. I’ve heard some people say it’s better to leave larger buses unpainted.
 

Shiftless

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Thanks!
My Hollands 44 1/2 is painted Italian Olive

I like color and I also like bare iron protected by boiled linseed oil or stained with black oil.

“Your vise, your color”
 

dbovair

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Feb 18, 2023
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29
I also have the next size down in the double swiveller Hollands lineup.
This one may or may not still be in the original color. The dark green paint is worn in the usual spots but I suspect it is still bearing the repaint from a long ago owner. :dunno:

71B07CD5-726C-435C-B24B-1F9870703E89.jpeg
I do like dark green and haven’t done a restoration with that yet so I might go down that path even if it’s not the original
 

Shiftless

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As I said a few minutes ago, your vise, your color. Old machinery painted dark green generally looks handsome. XKE’s in British racing green look GREAT!

Here is a Morgan that somebody painted metallic purple. (Photo from Pinterest)

5403C5CF-8DEC-49D2-A31F-35690FF08277.jpeg
 
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dbovair

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As I said a few minutes ago, your vise, your color.

Here is a Morgan that somebody painted metallic purple. (Photo from Pinterest)

5403C5CF-8DEC-49D2-A31F-35690FF08277.jpeg
Sounds good to me!
I recently painted a prentiss 22. Unfortunately at some point in its life they broke the swivel jaw and brazed it back in place so now it’s only a stationary jaw. Every think else on it is in great shape though. The slide isn’t split the threads are in great shape nothing else is cracked or broken off. 8EF6304C-4DB3-46AE-8168-DD03D67C3A1F.jpeg
 

mikeinri

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MA
It was an old semi brake drum and the middle section out of a high pressure gas cylinder. It’s topped with some scrap plate I found. The brake drum has a couple of bags of concrete in it as well.

Thanks for filling in those details! I figured that was a brake drum at the bottom. Very creative!

Mike
 

mikeinri

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Finally Friday! What better time to through up a few pics of finds from the last couple weeks. First is an old crusty Prentiss 515, next a Desmond-Stephan Simplex 350, an old Parkinson 3B on a large stump,

1677849164923.png1677849222051.png1677849510360.png1677849866045.png

Cool vises!

But, Bud Ice? Did they bring that back?

Mike
 

TheRealZeus

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CONTINENTAL USA
Saw a video of a dude frying cactuses, making dinner with his vise.. 🌵 🥘
Sorta hard to one up.🔝
 

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Smitty

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Found an interesting grinder this week. It’s a Queen City 5HP model from the 50’s. It weighs in at 650 lbs and takes 14”x3” wheels. My front tires were barely touching the ground On the ride home.
 

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Smitty

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Nice Smittty! are you keeping it as a grinder, or getting it for the stand?
I got this for really cheap and my intention was to use the cast iron pedestal for a vise base like you mentioned. Once I saw it in person I started thinking that it would look great in the shop and be a lot of fun to use. They didn’t know if the motor worked and it’s about 75 years old. I have 3 phase 220 so I wired up a plug and gave it a try. It fired up and immediately went to full speed, once off it still turned for a few minutes. I’m going to keep it together and clean it up.
 

ike

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Apr 9, 2009
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332
I picked up a little Wilton clamp on vise from Amazon. Quality was pretty poor overall. The swivel did not work at all out of the box because the swivel channels were cut off-center There are carriage bolts used for the swivel, and the head was too wide to fit, due to the off-centered cuts. I had to spend 30 minutes with a dremel and angle grinder to get everything working. The Amazon reviews complained about poor quality, so I kind of expected it. I needed a very small vise for little things I do in my office, so this fit what I needed, but it's a shame that they can't seem to send a working product out the door for what they charge.

20230304_163905.jpg
 

Outlawmws

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The Badlands
That Wilton clamp on is the CBV-100, right? - if so yes, get the QC up to the pricing model.

The Ad is very confusing compared to the pics - is it a 4" jaw? They can't seen to get the terminology in the description to make sense: "4" Vise, 2-1/4" Jaw Opening, 2" Throat" -compared to the pic I'd think 2 or 2-1/2" jaw, 2" throat, and 4" opening?
 

gdocktor3

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Can anyone tell me anything about this? I can’t read any of the markings. It’s cracked on top. Is it worth anything in this condition?
 

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Drill Sergeant Arc

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Was that crack from over tightening or pounding? Those quazi anvil spots on vices are perplexing, it’s like the manufacturer doesn’t want you pounding on their product because they can’t control the limits of scale that could be applied in regards to a hammer. Yet they will put something there that invites the user to think “hey I can pound on stuff here”. Some are robust steel and others are just completely bogus machined flat cast iron surface less then a 1/4 thick. When I was a kid my dad and I popped a hole right though one of those machined surfaces on one he had bought at a “TOOLS” tent set up in a parking lot back in the early seventies.
 

gdocktor3

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Was that crack from over tightening or pounding? Those quazi anvil spots on vices are perplexing, it’s like the manufacturer doesn’t want you pounding on their product because they can’t control the limits of scale that could be applied in regards to a hammer. Yet they will put something there that invites the user to think “hey I can pound on stuff here”. Some are robust steel and others are just completely bogus machined flat cast iron surface less then a 1/4 thick. When I was a kid my dad and I popped a hole right though one of those machined surfaces on one he had bought at a “TOOLS” tent set up in a parking lot back in the early seventies.
No idea how crack got there I found it like that
 

RTM

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Can anyone tell me anything about this? I can’t read any of the markings. It’s cracked on top. Is it worth anything in this condition?
Looks like this Lewis found upthread at first glance

 

va.grouseman

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It's either a Lewis or a Prentiss on the Lewis pattern.---The crack can be repaired by a professional machinist who knows how to weld cast.---It's probably 130 years old.---Made back in the 1800s.---It's rare and you should buy it if their not asking a mint.
 
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