Show me your ceramic/porcelain tiled floors. Good? Bad? Ugly? experiences?

[ReflexTuning]

I am thinking of doing some tile in my upcoming shop. From what I read Porcelain PEI 5 is the way to go as far as durability is concerned. There were a few threads I have read where people with first hand experience, whether it be in their own garage or at a dealership they work at, the tile was very durable and easy to clean if sealed propperly. I have also read those who have not had experience with tile are very weary of it. Show me some garage/shop pics if you have them, along with your honest opinions.

Build direct has PEI glazed porcelain tiles for as cheap at .91 cents a square foot and full body porcelain for 1.45/sq ft

 

[ReflexTuning]

Found this on another forum

"I've lived with interlocking tiles, a floor coating and porcelain tiles in my two garages. I replaced the interlocking tiles with porcelain because I found them impossible to keep clean. Grease, oil and dirt became easily trapped on my interlocking tiles and the only way to keep them clean looking was to remove and lay them out on the driveway, spray them with a degreaser and hose them down. But I still couldn’t remove the dirt and grime that was compacted in between all of the crevices of the tile surface without having to pressure wash each one individually. This quickly became an annoyance for me, but may not be an issue for some.

Porcelain tile still remains the most durable, easy to clean and stylish flooring options for the home. They will not stain, fade, or suffer water damage so they are superior to natural stone which is not impervious to staining. If you live in a colder climate you also not have to worry about freeze or thawing.

As for the concern that homeowners "drop too much stuff ... (and would be) constantly cracking and chipping tiles" that is a valid concern to raise to a retailer or installer if you have never lived with tile before. But you should know that the physical ability of porcelain tile to withstand breakage is significant once they are installed. If you lay a tile on a concrete floor and drop a hammer on it, it might break. But once tile is mortared to a concrete substrate they are not likely to break, making them rated among the toughest flooring materials.

There are the reasons why you find porcelain tiles suitable for areas where heavy traffic, abrasive dirt and moisture is a concern, such as building entrances, swimming pools, or retail centers (malls). It’s the same reason why manufacturers such as Ferrari, Lamborghini, and BMW, to name a few, have installed porcelain tiles on the floors to their manufacturing and repair facilities. I’ve inserted some pictures of these tiles in use.

A nice feature about porcelain tiles is that if you accidentally happen to catastrophically damage a tile (maybe you drop an engine block, for example), you can simply cut it out the damaged piece and replace it with a new one. Furthermore, if you happen to chip a tile that does not need replacing, porcelain tiles have the same color underneath.

Note that not all tiles are alike. Natural stone or ceramic tiles are different from porcelain and are not appropriate for the garage.

Porcelain tiles may be the most expensive of the flooring options discussed here, but properly installed and maintained, porcelain tile can last a lifetime."

 

[ron in sc]

I am thinking of doing some tile in my upcoming shop.

I considered tile too and I tested a number of different types for impact resistance. That's the test they don't do or don't publish, at least for the tiles I looked at. Test not scientific but helpful. I dropped a number of different items form various height. Only 1/2" quarry tile survived having a pipe wrench droped on it from 6' with breaking or cracking.

I had too much trouble finding the right tile, in the right size and the right color that was available. If I could have found the right tile I might very well have went with tile. Cost was not that great of a consideration. I figured I only have to pay once.

In the end I went with Wolverine Coatings epoxy. I bought the stuff this past Friday and contractor finished today. The only thing I have to do is put down final clearcoat of Bondtite 1101.

I have been working on the garage project, house renovations and additon to the house for nearly 1 1/2 years if I include all the stuff I had to do to get zoning variances and the like. I'm pretty worn out but I do see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Below is photo of tile I used for sink backsplash and counter. I use the same tile in the garage bathroom. It is full bodied porcelain tile and that stuff is hard as heck and impervious to everything; it's also brittle.

I do still think a tile floor would be beautiful in a garage. If I did not intend to do much work in the garage I would have gotten tile. I would think alot of different tile would work fine in a garage used for show or just parking.

 

[ni[x]it]

Of topic, GORGEOUS Radicals!!!

 

[EdNJ]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17085&highlight=ceramic&page=2
Read my post

 

[Jack Olsen]

Against popular wisdom, I went with ceramic tile on top of my 84-year-old slab when I redid the floor about a year and a half ago.

I do a lot of work in the garage, both on my car and different wood and metal projects. But I was as amateur as they come when it came to setting tile. Since laying it down, I've dropped tools and jacked up cars on the .59/sf material without any issue. Clean-up has been easy and I went with dark grout to minimize staining problems. I've been very happy with it, although the weight of the tiles and supplies about broke the back of my 24-year-old Jeep.

The old floor was anything but flat (eight decades of earthquakes here in Los Angeles, and I live a block from the constantly-oozing tar pits, with no moisture barrier under the slab), so I flattened out the worst of the dips and accepted that this wouldn't ever look like new construction.

Still it looks a lot better than the old dirty concrete.

________
vaporizer wholesale

 

[Shocker]

Wow, you guys have given me something to think about. Thanks for all the info.

 

[M Fan]

Against popular wisdom, I went with ceramic tile on top of my 84-year-old slab when I redid the floor about a year and a half ago.

Did you actually use ceramic? or did you go porcelin? I have heard porcelin is much more durable for a garage and I am thinking of going that route myself.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Ceramic. At the time, I didn't know porcelain was an option. I might go with that if I did it again, although it is more expensive.

 

[MREDDLE]

JACK... I have wanted (and still might go with) small mosaic tile for my garage floor. People have been trying to talk me out of it. But I cant stop thinking about how great your garage turned out, and your Porsche... what can I say beautiful.

 

[ket-tek]

I've seen polished porcelain tiles used in home that looked great.. Looked like granite tiles but doesn't show water spots like marble or granite.

I would love the look of it in the garage, but don't think I could get used to the feel of the grout lines using jacks, creepers, etc..

Is this an issue for anyone who have tiles?

 

[TheAussieAdvisor]

Hi Reflex

The tile you have shown on the photo's are from a Italian company called Graniti Fiandre, the range you are after is not on the website however is made exclusively for Ferrari called work shop 200x200 in two colors Dolimiti (white) and Asiago (grey) these tile are fantastic in this situation as they have a slip resistance of R11 and pertain a finish called extra clean.

You will need to screed the floor and waterproof the area before installing the tile this will fight off fluorescence and guarantee the the ease of cleaning by allowing you to scrub and flood the floor.

The cost in Australia is Retail $45.00 per m2 so you will need to work out the difference if you live outside my area

Hope this helps

Regards
Andrew

 

[rmousir]

what did you do with the stress seam down the middle of your garage? I have that and I think tile would break there unless it was filled with some thing. Did you fill yours with grout?

 

[Jack Olsen]

Are you asking me? My slab was in sections with stress-relief seams in it. It was also uneven, after 85 years of Southern California earthquakes. I filled the gaps with vinyl cement mix, and 'double buttered' the thinset mortar -- which means it was put both on the floor and the underside of each tile. This allowed it to conform to the uneven surface without cavities.

I only used grout between the tiles.

 

[rmousir]

Thanks Jack. That looks like a really interesting idea. I don't know that I am up for it but it would be cool. My garage is only 20x20 so it isn't real big. I was going to stain and seal it but this is something to think about.

 

[djmartins]

Would tile be good in a garage where someone did a lot of welding, machining, painting, and all the other stuff?
No Porches or Corvettes, mostly old junk.
I have to ask because I just can't believe that tile would last very long on a garage floor that say lots of traditional dirty car work.....

 

[Jack Olsen]

There's nothing as durable as concrete. I put down a welding blanket to minimize burns. I would say the tiles are about as vulnerable as most epoxy coatings, which also get burn spots from slag, and can be gouged and scratched. The nice thing about tile is that if you do damage one, you can replace it pretty easily. With epoxy coatings, it's not as easy to patch without it being apparent.

And it's not difficult to replace one if it does break. A lot easier to create a seamless repair than with epoxy.

 

[gcan]

slippery when wet?

 

[Jack Olsen]

No. It has to have a certain coefficient of friction or it won't pass code for public use (rain, etc). A lot of the epoxies will be more slippery.

 

[pfbz]

slippery when wet?

I put down porcelain on a patio over concrete slab last fall and am quite happy with how it came out as well as the overall low cost of the project. I went with very inexpensive (but great looking) Home Depot 20" porcelain tiles.


With the tile I chose, it *definitely* is more slippery than the broomed concrete and probably most other outdoor surfaces, and can feel pretty slick if you wear the wrong shoes walking on it when it is raining. Pick a tile with a bit of texture if slickness is important to you.

I've had no issues with durability, but it isn't in my shop and hasn't had anything heavy dropped on it. It did weather a Denver Winter exposed with zero problems.

Based on what I've just read here, I think the shop/garage is next.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Forget the floor. Tell us about that 911.
Street/Strip? Looks like slicks on the back.

Sorry fellas, the car grabbed my attention, one track mind.

 

[Jack Olsen]

The 911? Street and track. But road courses instead of 1/4 mile.

AND VIDEO

Thanks for noticing.

 

[ilateapex]

Here is a pic from my iPhone of the shop area of my garage. I have not been home long enough this summer to even put the race car back into the garage so can't comment on how well it will hold up.

Michael

 

[zeebad1]

We put porcelain tile in the enclosed garage portion of the shop. This area is only for parking, and I'm really pleased with the way it turned out.

Cleans up easily, and reasonably priced at around $2.00/sq. ft.

 

[rmousir]

that is very nice looking. Gotta be nice not having to share the garage with cars and tools! Can I ask what is under the covers?

 

[thegarageguy]

Porcelain is tough, the only weak point is the grout. It'll eventually stain, trap dirt and crumble in areas.

 

[BillGalbraith]

Porcelain is tough, the only weak point is the grout. It'll eventually stain, trap dirt and crumble in areas.

Could you make the grout line 1/8" or smaller, to help minimize that?

 

[Jack Olsen]

My grout has been in place for years. No degradation at all.

 

[red]

Porcelain is tough, the only weak point is the grout. It'll eventually stain, trap dirt and crumble in areas.

Epoxy grouts are now available. Expensive (compared to regular) and more difficult to install. -Ed

 

[Kevin54]

Here is a pic from my iPhone of the shop area of my garage. I have not been home long enough this summer to even put the race car back into the garage so can't comment on how well it will hold up.

Michael

Any more pics of this garage / build. I imagine there is but do you have a quick link to them? I like the looks of it.

 

[JBC]

Jack, great point about replacing the tiles if broken versus the epoxy paint if damaged. I'm amazed that dragging the floor jack does not cause serious problems and that you can raise the car without cracking the tile.

My floor slopes slightly to the front so that water will not drain into the garage. My driveway slopes a little down toward the garage but concrete apron slopes up to the garage floor along with the garage floor sloppping toward the front. I will need to keep this slope. I see this as a problem because I will need to be very precise and careful when laying the tile to maintain this slope. This could be problematic.

My biggest concern is protecting the concrete and the beam system of which it is a part. I have a basement below the garage. I do not want oil, gas or anything else to seep into the concrete and possibly get near the beams and maybe cause problems years down the road. This pushes me back to epoxy paint because it seems like a better seal.

JBC

 

[Kevin54]

Jack, great point about replacing the tiles if broken versus the epoxy paint if damaged. I'm amazed that dragging the floor jack does not cause serious problems and that you can raise the car without cracking the tile.

My floor slopes slightly to the front so that water will not drain into the garage. My driveway slopes a little down toward the garage but concrete apron slopes up to the garage floor along with the garage floor sloppping toward the front. I will need to keep this slope. I see this as a problem because I will need to be very precise and careful when laying the tile to maintain this slope. This could be problematic.

My biggest concern is protecting the concrete and the beam system of which it is a part. I have a basement below the garage. I do not want oil, gas or anything else to seep into the concrete and possibly get near the beams and maybe cause problems years down the road. This pushes me back to epoxy paint because it seems like a better seal.

JBC

The tile will follow the slope of the floor. You use a notched trowel to control your thickness of tile set. As far as seepage through the tiles, you can use a waterproof grout. Tiles are set in showers everyday with no seepage so I don't imagine you would have to worry about anything on the floor. But if you think you are going to get gas and oil spillage on a regular basis, I would use a dark colored grout to minimize the spills showing up.

 

[JBC]

Kevin54,

I started thinking about the tile more on the drive to work this morining and realized that my comments about leakage might be stupid since it is in my shower. However, if I spill oil and/or gas or whatever, I was concerned about what it would do to the grout. I don't think it will be a regular basis at all but I now it will happen. Today, I changed the oil in the Volvo and on taking the old oil to be recycled, some dripped onto the concrete. No big deal but I'm sure this will happen.

JBC

 

[JBC]

oops, "know" not "now" - I do know the difference - HA!

 

[Jack Olsen]

Grout is like concrete. At least the grout I used is. Mine gets fluid on it all the time. I can't imagine much short of a hammer and chisel dislodging it.

 

[zeebad1]

Here's a picture from outside......

The black one is a 2010 2SS/RS M6, and the blue one is a '71 Z-28/RS with some non-stock equipment.

Not the best picture, but one of the few that I have with these 2 together.

 

[John Hunt]

Hey Jack O -

Quick question - did you have any significant moisture coming thru your slab prior to laying the tile, and if so, did that cause any issues such as tiles popping up, etc?

My 1600 sq ft garage is built on a slab I suspect has no vapor barrier - I get damp spots and a little efflorescence when I do the plastic patch test in some areas. No actual water puddles, just damp concrete. I had decided that race deck was probably the only safe solution, but after seeing yours and all the others with tile I'd sure like to try to make that work.

thanks - John

 

[Jack Olsen]

My slab was poured in 1925 and was very uneven -- there was standing water on the slab every time it rained. I assumed there was no vapor barrier underneath it -- even if plastic had been used back then, it would have dissolved away. I never did a test with a plastic sheet on the top of it, though.

But it was pretty clear that even if I made the whole floor level, epoxy would still have problems with the moisture.

I got rid of the low spots with vinyl concrete patch and the thickness of the tiles and the thinset has raised the floor up so that the rain now doesn't pool along one side of the garage like it used to.

However, I did have the garage flood once since I installed the tile. My driveway storm drain pipe had gotten infested with tree roots and there was a downpour big enough to back everything up. The only unfortunate consequence of this was that it stayed wet long enough that the steel on it from grinding stained the tiles with rust. But a little Ajax and a Scotch Brite pad took it right off.

Ceramic tile is well suited to use around water. So I don't imagine thinset would have any problems with it once it had set up. The only possible problem I can think of if there was enough water to expand if it froze. But that seems like a long shot, so long as you get tile itself which is frost proof.

 

[abstamaria]

I can only say I wish I'd read this thread before I put epoxy on my garage floor. Jack, how thick is your ceramic tile? I was so amazed by your jack on your floor. I thought tile would crack instantly.

Would it be possible to lay ceramic or porcelein tile on an epoxy floor?

Many thanks.

Andres

 

[Freejack]

Remember, tile is only as strong as the substrate. When tiles are installed over flexible surfaces, such as wood, they can crack, especially if installed improperly. Installed correctly over concrete you basically have a solid cross section from the tile to mortar to concrete. The tile is not flex and so it will dramatically lower the likelihood of cracking.

Jake