dave*99
Well-known member
Drain pan under clothes washer and water heater.
What to include, new build home
- Thread starter 7palms
- Start date
Built in stops for all tub & shower valves, this avoids having to shut off water to the whole house for any repairs or maintenance to the valves, a subpanel in the garage will allow more options plus a conduit to the attic so the wall does not have to be opened up for wiring changes.
sjvicker
Well-known member
Plan spots out of the way in your bathroom for toothbrush charging and in an accessible closet for vacuum charging.
dave*99
Well-known member
So how did that work out for them? I thought was a cool idea so I tried it.
I did that in my old house. I expected the lamps on the nightstands would be best plugged into the switched outlet and the clock radio plugged into the unswitched.
Two issues came up. I needed more unswitched power for phone charger etc. Ended up with a plug strip behind the nightstands.
When entering the room, we turned on the wall switch and the nightstand lights came on.... But then what? You either turn them off at the light - then forget the next morning that you did so. Or you walk over to the wall switch and turn them off then stub your toe walking back to the bed in the dark.
My wife ended up plugging the lamp on her side into the unswitched and I had my light in the switched outlet. She reads in bed and wants local control of the light.
In our guest bedroom, guests would turn the lights off at the lamp and when they left we had to go turn them back on so the wall switch worked normally. Of course we didn't sleep in that room, just went in to change sheets etc. No toes stubbed. And to complain about our guests leaving the table lamps switched off locally.
I would think the split outlet with switched and unswitched would work well in my living room. A tablelamp on the switched receptacle and anything else on the unswitched. I never installed it though.
In the new house, all bedrooms have a ceiling fan with a light controlled by (2) wall switches. I considered making that light switch a 3 way and putting the other switch near the bed. I've seen this in hotel rooms and it worked well. I didn't do it, but with the smart switches available today, I can still add that functionality if I choose. There are also table lamps on the nightstands, plugged into constant power.
The usual sequence... Turn on overhead light at wall switch, go to nightstand turn on light. Go back to wall switch turn off overhead light. Get in bed and turn off lamp at nightstand. And if you read in bed, you really do prefer local control of that lamp.
The new house has receptacles with USB charging ports behind the nightstands, and they are used every night.
My point? Think about what gets plugged in and where. Wire accordingly. And let us know if there was a better way to use those split receptacles in the bedroom.
05snopro440
Well-known member
Whether or not you will be doing heavy work in the garage, maybe in the future someone might. Having had a few different garage setups now, I would put 1-2 240V outlets in the garage, and lots of plug-ins. Plugins above workbench height are a nice feature.
dave*99
Well-known member
These Plugins?
Last edited:
05snopro440
Well-known member
dave*99
Well-known member
Makes the garage smell nice too!There's always that guy. Here's the recognition you are requesting
engineer2
Well-known member
Quad outlet at bathroom vanities.
Adult-height vanities for the master and guest bathrooms.
Switched outlet inside bathroom vanities for a hair dryer and curling iron.
Outlet inside medicine cabinets to recharge electric toothbrush and razor.
Thermostatically controlled attic fan(s).
Outlets under eaves for holiday lights.
LED wafer lights if a room needs general lighting.
Outlets above or inside kitchen cabinets for undercabinet lights or rope lights above the cabinets.
Power for security camera above garage door.
Provisions to run power for your future shed.
GFCI outlet inside kitchen sink cabinet to plug in your dishwasher and garbage disposal instead of hardwiring them.
Adult-height vanities for the master and guest bathrooms.
Switched outlet inside bathroom vanities for a hair dryer and curling iron.
Outlet inside medicine cabinets to recharge electric toothbrush and razor.
Thermostatically controlled attic fan(s).
Outlets under eaves for holiday lights.
LED wafer lights if a room needs general lighting.
Outlets above or inside kitchen cabinets for undercabinet lights or rope lights above the cabinets.
Power for security camera above garage door.
Provisions to run power for your future shed.
GFCI outlet inside kitchen sink cabinet to plug in your dishwasher and garbage disposal instead of hardwiring them.
Zeus36
Well-known member
Bathroom and laundry sink in the garage.
svhamelly
Well-known member
That's a waste of time... my wife and I both work from home... 3 computers, 2 iphones, 1 ipad, Apple TV, Roku TV, Denon reciever... NONE of them have a wired connection to the network and all work flawlessly.
Metal-Marc
Well-known member
This. Go nuts. And don't listen to the naysayers.
bluedog225
Well-known member
Deleted
Last edited:
NORTON'S SHOP
Well-known member
Funny; after 54 responses; no one said a larger garage.
Killer95Stang
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 1, 2008
- Messages
- 341
Not sure if this only applies to older houses, but if possible, make sure all your light switches have a separate neutral wire. I've been adding wifi switches for my automation system and they all require power. Pain in then **** toward later.
dave*99
Well-known member
NEC has required that for some time now.
Hey guys, just wanted to say thank you. My builder is a local guy and has been very receptive to anything I want to do. Big difference from one of the companies like Lennar or DR Horton. Yesterday walked the property with the electrician and we went over some of the ideas.He’ll be back on Monday to take care of the stuff I wanted. Meeting up with the plumber on Wednesday for the same thing.
Always nice to have some people to bounce ideas off of!
Always nice to have some people to bounce ideas off of!
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
Absolutely agreed, those that say ethernet isn't needed are not looking to the other uses of having ethernet.
I run PoE on a lot of devices that would otherwise need a battery and I have little to no patience for recharging devices non-stop.
It does determine if you want a "smart" home or not
bluedog225
Well-known member
A fair amount of this stuff can be accommodated without having to close the deal. That is, roughed in electrical and plumbing. The actual EV charging station, security cameras, etc, can be done later as you have “extra” $$$.
I’m enjoying having this list for my cabin.
Hope it goes well.
dave*99
Well-known member
Absolutely correct and the other things that might have slipped through the cracks can be handled because there is a nearby unused CAT6 cable. Many of these capabilities are NOT computer related. You can do a lot with WiFi, but copper adds many capabilities that are complementary.
POE PTZ security cameras
Audio baluns/extenders
HDMI extenders
Tie in another set of alarm contacts on a window you forgot about
Add another access point
Home automation equipment
I too lack the patience to maintain batteries in security products, cameras and the like.
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
I have used HDMI over ethernet in so many weird scenarios, it almost gives me anxiety to think about not having the option.
dcg9381
Well-known member
- Generator transfer switch (or at least enough space for one + additional cable)
- Pre-wire for EV, 60A minimum. I really like putting Siemen's Talon subpanels in and outside garages - they have everything you need. 20A, 30A, 50A breakers and outlets. <$250 per panel
- Sub panel out back if you're ever doing a hot tub... Or pool.
- Water softener loop (if your water needs it)
- I always put a PEX line under the sink that runs to the refrigerator. If you put in water filtration, you can easy filter your refrigerator water.
- I run CAT 6 in every room. I do 2-3 cat 6 runs PER TV (2 for video over CAT6, the remaining one is internet)
- Drop in the ceiling for WIFI access point(s)
- CAT 6 (outdoor) at the eves (at least 2 per eve) - security cameras are now Power Over Ethernet
- Do several runs of PVC (white or gray) under that driveway. White for sprinkler. Gray if you ever have to bring a power line over. Same thing out back if this house will have a porch.
- Make sure they don't run any HVAC drains into a sink drain. Apparently this is allowed by code (here) but should not be. Your drains will clog, overflow the sink.
- Pay attention to HVAC drains in general - plumbers do some stupid things. One of mine drains out to my rear concrete deck. Annoying.
- Have any friends with an RV? I put a sewer "clean out" near the driveway. Prevents Cousin Eddie from putting it in a storm drain.
- Plan your audio. Mine is centralized in a closet. That closet has 2 x 20A circuits as well as vent fan.
- Speaker wire (CL2 rated)
- RCA cables for subwoofer(s)
- I put 1-1.25" conduit in the walls for "future audio standards".
Last edited:
dcg9381
Well-known member
I don't do these. Put in conduit or pre-wire with appropriate HDMI cables (over 20', you really need to watch what you're buying in terms of active cables). If you use ARC (audio control of your stereo on your TV) - you'll need 2 HDMI cables.
HDMI over ethernet (you typically need 2 x CAT 6) works great to 8k and beyond... It's better than installing "todays" HDMI standard that will quickly outdate.
Metal-Marc
Well-known member
Lots of great ideas here. It would be cool if this thread was stickied to the top.
duneslider
Well-known member
I agreed with this until last week. You apparently don't have a teenager and the ONLY way to successfully play on the xbox requires an ethernet connection. We now have one device connected via cat6.
So, to prevent the untimely death of a teenager hardwired internet is a necessity. (I hope the sarcasm can be heard in my post)
Junkman
Well-known member
I have no idea as to how old you are, but if you aren't that old now, you will be in the future. For that reason stay away from low toilets, because as you age, it will be more difficult to get up once you get down. Also, make sure that they at least put in bracing for assist bars in the shower and bathroom. You never know when you might need them. I built my home almost 40 years ago, and have always planned on living out the rest of my life in it. Now we are making changes to accommodate becoming older. When we built the home, it was well insulated with fiberglass insulation, and now that energy has gotten expensive, we are not upgrading to spray foam insulation on the underside of the roof deck. I can already see the difference in the heating bills, and the rooms that have already been done are much more comfortable. If I were building today, I would spray foam all of the exterior walls, under the floors, and the underside of the roof. Especially in Florida where you want to keep all your home air-conditioned environment as constant as possible for the least amount of money. This means keeping the hot sun beating on your roof from getting into your home, and in the winter keeping all the heat inside the home and not having it escape.
I know that it is traditional to have the doors open into the home, but other than the front door that guests will be arriving at, I would have all the other exterior doors open out. Makes it much more difficult for a burglar to break into your home, and in the event of a fire, it also makes it much easier for you to exit the home. Also, make sure that reinforcing is being added at the striker area and that the doors are of good quality. Don't allow the builder to use inexpensive hardware that you are going to be replacing in a few years. Quality door hardware is an investment in the future. Same with kitchen cabinets, look critically at the quality of what is going to be installed. One last thing, if the bedroom walls are back to back, consider adding some sound deadening or spray foam between them. You don't want to be listening to the person in the next room snoring.
I know that it is traditional to have the doors open into the home, but other than the front door that guests will be arriving at, I would have all the other exterior doors open out. Makes it much more difficult for a burglar to break into your home, and in the event of a fire, it also makes it much easier for you to exit the home. Also, make sure that reinforcing is being added at the striker area and that the doors are of good quality. Don't allow the builder to use inexpensive hardware that you are going to be replacing in a few years. Quality door hardware is an investment in the future. Same with kitchen cabinets, look critically at the quality of what is going to be installed. One last thing, if the bedroom walls are back to back, consider adding some sound deadening or spray foam between them. You don't want to be listening to the person in the next room snoring.
dave*99
Well-known member
I have 2 HDMI cables at each location, but in the 2 locations I run ARC, I'm only using 1 cable.
When do you need 2? Cable box?
I don't have any cable boxes. I stream everything.
I chose not to run any coax for TV - but have some for FM antenna. Which I use less and less.
Roku on 1 setup with ARC plugs into the HTR
Roku on the other setup with ARC plugs directly into TV.
If the floor plan allows, put a laundry pass through between the closet/bathroom and the laundry room.
Consider using recessed toilet paper fixtures -- more knee room and they will never break off the wall.
Consider dimmable LED perimeter lit mirrors in the master bath. No shadows on your face when shaving or putting on make-up.
If you have food prep counter space under upper cabinets, add under cabinet lighting so that you can see where you hands are.
Use undermount sinks. More effective counter space and much easier to wipe crumbs and spills on the counters into the sink when there is no raised rim.
If feasible, locate hood vent fan remote in the attic -- this will make the kitchen much quieter.
Consider induction cooktops, they heat almost as fast as gas and temperature control is astonishing.
Consider using recessed toilet paper fixtures -- more knee room and they will never break off the wall.
Consider dimmable LED perimeter lit mirrors in the master bath. No shadows on your face when shaving or putting on make-up.
If you have food prep counter space under upper cabinets, add under cabinet lighting so that you can see where you hands are.
Use undermount sinks. More effective counter space and much easier to wipe crumbs and spills on the counters into the sink when there is no raised rim.
If feasible, locate hood vent fan remote in the attic -- this will make the kitchen much quieter.
Consider induction cooktops, they heat almost as fast as gas and temperature control is astonishing.
kjdhawkhill
Well-known member
Dog wash / bike wash / car wash and rough duty shower can all basically be the same device/station as long as the floor slopes the right way.
Exterior water spigots.
Exterior 120v outlets
Location of the Garage 240V close to the door so you can charge the car outside.
Cat6 runs to all corners of the house. POE is great for cameras if you need a bunch of stuff at one corner you can always add a switch.
I like hardwired for a lot of networked devices, I think I typically have about 25 items connected to my home network. If my kids piss me off I can shut down wifi to all of the stuff they use with one click and my TV can still stream, my desktop still works, cameras still work.
Quad outlet in bathroom or dedicated one for toothbrush charger so cords don't have to be strung all over.
Three way and 4 way switches for rooms with multiple entry points.
Exterior 120v outlets
Location of the Garage 240V close to the door so you can charge the car outside.
Cat6 runs to all corners of the house. POE is great for cameras if you need a bunch of stuff at one corner you can always add a switch.
I like hardwired for a lot of networked devices, I think I typically have about 25 items connected to my home network. If my kids piss me off I can shut down wifi to all of the stuff they use with one click and my TV can still stream, my desktop still works, cameras still work.
Quad outlet in bathroom or dedicated one for toothbrush charger so cords don't have to be strung all over.
Three way and 4 way switches for rooms with multiple entry points.
A 240v, 40-60 amp circuit for each bay in garage. The wire is the most important part. Depending on your run length, but I'd over build it. 6 gauge wire at minimum. I placed mind dead center along back wall as cars are nose in. Soon there will be induction charging and likely in front of vehicle as you drive up to. No worries as most chargers have long cords to reach anywhere along vehicle. Can use for welder or generator until you own EV.
Not almost, induction technology is faster, more even and safer than gas. Check out invisible induction "cooktops" very cool.
dcg9381
Well-known member
It's implied at GJ.
dcg9381
Well-known member
I have induction. It "can be" faster than gas, depending on the metallurgy of the pan. Some definitely heat faster than others.
Safer, I completely agree.
We use induction, but when I built I put gas drops in the kitchen, utility room, and the interior "mechanical closet" that houses the tankless water heater. It's huge to be able to plugin ventless heating (propane) heaters when the grid is down for substantial amounts of time. We can heat the whole house with 2 of these heaters very easily and have zero dependency on electricity.
dcg9381
Well-known member
You're right on that, you only need one to control the audio over ARC.
In my case, I did two cables, but these cables runs are so long that they cables are "active" and have a source end. I set the cables up so you can run signals either way.
As gas can be, guessing it heats a cast iron slower than a aluminum/other pan.
That's what generators are for...better yet battery storage. You can run your electric appliances off an EV (See F-150 Lightning) for days.... when power walls are the norm, there will be no need for generators. Check out liquid metal battery technology. It is a grid level answer to how we deliver energy.
dcg9381
Well-known member
I don't disagree and installed a 20KW generator. But at current prices of LPG, it costs about $7/hr to run. And even with a "full" 500 gallon tank, at most I've got a week of run time. That generator is going to have problems firing two electric heat strips when it's really cold - we're talking almost 90A of power just for those strips.
As it's setup now, I could heat with propane gas portable furnaces and run the generator 2-3x a day for a bit to keep everything else up. I also switch to propane heating when it's so cold that our heat pumps flip to resistive heat, it's cheaper to heat the house that way.
Unrelated to the house, I recently bought 30kWh worth of lithium batteries and 12 KW worth of inverter capacity. The cost for those things is 100% more than what a 20KW generator goes for - that's with no margin, no installer, etc... I do agree batteries are going to be a game changer long term, but right now they're the most expensive backup power option you can get.
-Stew-
Well-known member
Heated window sills for the cat to lay on while looking out the window on a cool day.