Delta Contractor Special Tablesaw Fence HELP!

[Model A Fan]

I'm trying to repair a tablesaw fence for my Dad. He was saying it doesn't latch firmly at the far end opposite the user. Are there any missing pieces that are apparent that would cause it to not latch or function properly? This fence is a cheaper version of the Delta Model 10 fence it seems. Lighter weight, doesn't have the twist adjust feature for making fine adjustments. Literally an inexpensive contractor version for the jobsite.

I'd appreciate some help if anyone knows anything about these or has a parts list/expanded view drawing.

 

[Model A Fan]

 

[RTM]

This may be your parts diagram, but I doubt you can buy any parts from them

Delta 34-338 Contractors Saw OEM Replacement Parts From eReplacementParts.com

Shop OEM replacement parts by symptoms or model diagrams for your Delta 34-338 Contractors Saw Type 1!

www.ereplacementparts.com

This might be your parts list also

Delta / Rockwell Mfg / Rockwell-Delta - Publication Reprints - 34-338 10” TILTING ARBOR CONTRACTORS’ SAW (OLD STYLE) CS-4C | VintageMachinery.org

 

[Model A Fan]

This may be your parts diagram, but I doubt you can buy any parts from them

Delta 34-338 Contractors Saw OEM Replacement Parts From eReplacementParts.com

Shop OEM replacement parts by symptoms or model diagrams for your Delta 34-338 Contractors Saw Type 1!

www.ereplacementparts.com

This might be your parts list also

Delta / Rockwell Mfg / Rockwell-Delta - Publication Reprints - 34-338 10” TILTING ARBOR CONTRACTORS’ SAW (OLD STYLE) CS-4C | VintageMachinery.org

Thank you for the two links. The Contractor Saw must have been thr budgetiest of the budget models of that era (in the 10" size). My Dad worked for it when he was in high school by doing farm chores for a friend of his Dad.

On another note, would the Model 10 fence work if I remove the portion that rides on a "serrated" fence bar? I might have to post pics later tonight for that question to make more sense.

 

[Mintgrun]

I'm trying to repair a tablesaw fence for my Dad. He was saying it doesn't latch firmly at the far end opposite the user. Are there any missing pieces that are apparent that would cause it to not latch or function properly?

The black plastic part at the end appears to be broken. I'm assuming that's why the tape is there. Have you taken that end apart?

I took this image from the first one of RTM's links. I think this is the broken part.


Grid squares measure 1x1 inch

Rear Slide Block​

Part Number:422040105002
Fits your 34-338 Type 1!

Availability: Discontinued


This part is no longer available from the manufacturer.

 

[Sinatra]

I think you need to replace the wingnut with a knob to get better torque on the rod which tightens the far side against the rail. A quick search with the saw model number turned up a couple options for replacement parts. You could also source a generic knob with the same threads from McMaster Carr or Zoro.

 

[RTM]

I think you need to replace the wingnut with a knob to get better torque on the rod which tightens the far side against the rail. A quick search with the saw model number turned up a couple options for replacement parts. You could also source a generic knob with the same threads from McMaster Carr or Zoro.

I was thinking that originally too, but the parts diagram doesn’t show a knob there. Only the bottom knob is there, which he has.

I’m not sure how my older Craftsman locks, will look later

 

[Sinatra]

I searched the saw model number and a few parts sites had what looks like the same exploded view of the fence indicating item #6 as a knob, Delta part number 1087534. Searching that number shows several options. Sorry I can’t add photos or links right now.

 

[Mintgrun]

The original knob was pretty puny. I think the problem is at the other end of the rod.


That black plastic piece is made of metal on this fence. It's from a different model saw, but functions in the same way. When that rod gets pulled on, it pulls the clamp up under the back rail.



I have several Delta table saws, but only two that have the round fence rails. The others use the C channel at the bottom of this pile.



Removing your wing nut and the two bolts at the end of the fence should let the guts drop out so you can see what's broken.

 

[Mintgrun]

Googling the part number I shared above brought up this site, which appears to have them available. They're kind of expensive though, at $68.73 plus shipping.

422-04-010-5002 - Rear Slide Block

Rear Slide Block for Jet lock Fence

www.renovoparts.com

The review at the bottom of the page says that the part they received was made of metal, instead of plastic. I'm guessing Delta figured out that the plastic one was a weak link.

 

[whateg01]

That

Googling the part number I shared above brought up this site, which appears to have them available. They're kind of expensive though, at $68.73 plus shipping.

422-04-010-5002 - Rear Slide Block

Rear Slide Block for Jet lock Fence

www.renovoparts.com

The review at the bottom of the page says that the part they received was made of metal, instead of plastic. I'm guessing Delta figured out that the plastic one was a weak link.

I doubt that is the issue. The wingnut pulls on a rod that then pulls on the hook at the end. All that block does is allow the fence to slide smoothly along the rear fence rail. I don't know if it is like some I have had apart, but others, when the main knob is tightened, it pulls the T end of the fence tight to the front fence rail, then after that is tight, it snugs up the far end, with the small knob at the top just allowing fine adjustment.

 

[Mintgrun]

Based on the exploded diagram, the wing nut, or knob, pulling on the rod appears to actuate a lever that then pulls up on the hook, grabbing the rail.

I think the hole in the side of the plastic block is the pivot for that lever. There is also a spring inside that pushes the hook back down when the knob is released.

I'm guessing the block is broken based on this photo.



I don't think pulling harder on the rod is going to solve the problem, but I am not looking for an argument.

A lot of guess work would be eliminated by dismantling the fence and sharing photos.

 

[whateg01]

Based on the exploded diagram, the wing nut, or knob, pulling on the rod appears to actuate a lever that then pulls up on the hook, grabbing the rail.

I think the hole in the side of the plastic block is the pivot for that lever. There is also a spring inside that pushes the hook back down when the knob is released.

I'm guessing the block is broken based on this photo.



I don't think pulling harder on the rod is going to solve the problem, but I am not looking for an argument.

A lot of guess work would be eliminated by dismantling the fence and sharing photos.

I believe you are probably right!

 

[RTM]

Googling the part number I shared above brought up this site, which appears to have them available. They're kind of expensive though, at $68.73 plus shipping.

422-04-010-5002 - Rear Slide Block

Rear Slide Block for Jet lock Fence

www.renovoparts.com

The review at the bottom of the page says that the part they received was made of metal, instead of plastic. I'm guessing Delta figured out that the plastic one was a weak link.

And looking at the full 3D image there, I imagine you could make a decent functioning one out of a block of oak or maple. Of course, is your time worth $68 is always the question.

Or maybe even out of a block of metal if you are decent with a file, or are a normal GJ member who has a mill in their garage.

 

[Mintgrun]

I wondered about making one too, but it's not just a simple block, in that it's hollow with that pivot hole and a slot inside for the clamp to fit into. Plus, the end of the rod pokes out the end and it also holds a spring. It's a complicated little thing.

I think we've done about as much as we can to HELP! without more input from @Model A Fan .

 

[whateg01]

I have to remind myself that not everybody is mechanically inclined. I would absolutely make a new one, either by machining it or by cutting the pieces out of steel sheet and welding it together. But I also would have had it apart and evaluated why it isn't working. Problem with this is that the saw likely wouldn't bring $68 if sold in good working condition, so buying a part for it like that would be hard to do.