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Small finger brake and shear recommendations

MattH

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Joined
Mar 10, 2023
Messages
19
I'd like to create sheet metal enclosures for a number of electronics projects. These enclosures will be small: less than 12in (typically < 6in). I'll mostly use aluminum, though I would be interested in being able to bend steel for a few other miscellaneous mechanical parts I've got in mind. In terms of gauge, 16 gauge for aluminum is probably sufficient, though I'd really prefer to use 14 gauge if I can manage it. It needs to be a finger brake. Additionally, I'll be using this in a small apartment room, so it can't be too large.

It seems like the best deal on high quality brakes is to search places like ebay and craigslist for old Barth or Tennsmith brakes. However, these all seem to be quite large, so that's not an option for me at the moment.

I'm also looking to get a shear, with similar thickness/material requirements.

What do people recommend? I'd like to spend less than $1k and preferably less than $500.

One thing that caught my attention is the 12" 3-in-1 units rebranded by a lot of companies (e.g., this Eastwood unit). This meets most of my requirements, though I wish it would work with slightly thicker gauges. One thing that concerns me about it is different companies quote different max material thicknesses for it, though I would expect the units are all manufactured by the same company. The Eastwood one claims to be able to go to 16 gauge aluminum, though I haven't seen that for other units. Moreover, I think Eastwood used to spec the same unit at 18 gauge, so I'm a little worried Eastwood is overspec'ing this. In this youtube video (using a Kaka unit) someone performs a brief test on 14 gauge aluminum and it seems to do ok, though they only tried it once so I don't know.

Another question I have is about the practical differences between using a press brake design like in the 3-in-1 above vs a box-and-pan brake (e.g., this). I don't need to go beyond 90deg. Any other advantages/disadvantages of one over the other?

FYI I don't have a lot of experience or skill in mechanical work and only have a few other basic tools, such as a cordless drill and small machinist vise. But, I'd like to get better and for that reason (as well as cost) am not really interested in contracting out the work.
 
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MattH

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Mar 10, 2023
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I reached out to Eastwood about why they changed the aluminum spec from 18 to 16 and they said there have been improvements made to the design to allow the thicker material.
 

kabinenroller

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Sep 14, 2013
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908
Location
S.E. Wisconsin USA
I have a Dayton brand 3 in 1 shear/brake/ roller. It does a decent job when using the correct gauge material. It is a press brake (with fingers) not a conventional type brake, which is a benefit in some instances. I bought it off Craigs list new in the box for $300 delivered, well worth the money.
 
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MattH

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Mar 10, 2023
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19
Thanks, yeah that looks like it's another rebrand of the exact same unit.

One thought I'd had to bend thicker sheets is to heat the metal up with a torch prior to bending. Any reason why that wouldn't be a good idea? Would that help shearing too, or is that just useful for bending?
 

blue-5

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Mar 26, 2017
Messages
118
I have a 12” grizzly that works well. Its a heavy unit so not very portable
 
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mogandave

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Nov 4, 2021
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For what you are doing, if you just want the brake, the leaf brake is better. If you want the shear and the slip-roll, the 3 in 1 is better.

I've never had a 3 in 1 unit, but I imagine most of the failure result from overloading.

It's worth noting that in the video he sheared full width, but he did not brake or roll full width. When shearing, because of the blade-angle, only a small length of the material is engaged at one time, so once the shearing starts, the pressure is pretty constant through the cut. The width of the material is not significant, and shearing a 4" part requires the about the same tonnage as shearing a 12" part.

When you brake (or roll), the width of the material is significant because the entire width of the material is engaged at the same time. Braking a 12" part takes about three times the tonnage as braking a 4" part.

If you want the unit to last at all, do not exceed the material specifications. It the company specs 20-gage mild steel, that is the maximum. The unit is probably good for 22. The exception would be braking and rolling, where you could go up some with narrow parts.

With a press-brake you can typically do fade-work which you can't (as far as I know) do on a typical leaf-brake.

Buy one and play with it. If you get into it, buy something better.

If you are meticulous about getting it dialed-in, maintain it and do not overload it, it should be fine.
 

blue-5

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Mar 26, 2017
Messages
118
Is that the pan and box brake? https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-12-pan-and-box-brake/g0556.

Do you use that with aluminum? If so, what gauge do you go to? Thanks.
I have this one:
I haven't bent aluminum but have done a few small projects and its been great
 

Snip's

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Apr 29, 2017
Messages
1,866
Location
Ohio
I had the Diacro 24" model of the standard brake in my shop...
A very capable well made machine....

Screen Shot 2023-03-12 at 4.55.58 PM.png
 
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